Philips 55pfl5505 need some feedback - Page 7

No you're not ... I have nothing against Plasma, it has had a mini resurgence in the last year ...

But most large cheap plasmas are still 720p ... and are complicated as hell internally (which makes them a pain to service) ... I even saw a Panasonic Plasma which was almost as thin as an LED backlit LCD but it had 8 fans in its cabinet to keep things cool!

Most modern LCDs on the other hand are really simple internally. They just have 2/3 boards [Power + SSB + Inverter(just CCFL)] inside which are very easy to debug and replace.

can anyone recommend the best and most optimal settings to get the best picture quality on this tv?

thanks

Hi Pete.

This was actually done on the very first page of this thread.

BUT.... you'll find PQ depends highly on the source. There's not one set of settings that'll be optimal for all sources (at least that's been my experience with this set).

philm666

Are you sure Walmart has the 46pfl5505 and it's not the 46pfl3705 ?? - Our local Warmart only carries the 3000 series. Not sure about the other Canadian Walmarts.

Wazy

I was sure, until I checked back online and there is not enough info to tell what model it is.. it says 120Hz and the 5505 should be advertised as 240Hz, so it's confusing for now... But I was sure I saw the 5505 in the store, maybe I'll stop by this week to make sure.

I'm not sure if this has been asked already, but can anyone tell me if the TV can pass through encoded audio (i.e. DD 5.1 and DTS) from its digital audio out jack to be decoded by a receiver?

for example, my PS3 that is connected to my TV via HDMI, will the TV pass through the Dolby Digital/DTS audio data to the receiver to decode?

i ask because i had a similar setup on another TV, but the TV must have processed the audio first somehow, and sent something other than encoded DD 5.1/DTS to the receiver, because the receiver could never output Dolby Digital, but kept applying the faux-surround sound effects.

The Philips 40PFL5705D/F7 that I have has a coaxial output for sound, but it only seems to output 2.0 stereo that is atleast that is what my receiver sees from the tv connecting the coaxial cable.

I do wish that it would work, because I would like to use it for the sound output from the hdmi cables that are plugged into the tv instead of using optical sound cables to my receiver for every device that I have.

thanks for the info ghstbstr. that's exactly what i was looking to find out about my 5505D.

your current situation is the same as on my Samsung TV outside. seems to only want to send something other than DD/DTS to my receiver.

I believe, for example, if you connected an OTA antenna to the TV, the OTA signals have a DD soundtrack on them, and in that case, your TV can output (via digital coax or optical out on the TV) DD/DTS encoded audio to the receiver to decode.

i however would like the TV to pass through the DD/DTS audio from all the equipment directly connected to the TV, instead of running a separate audio cable to the receiver for all those devices.

The best way to do it is ... if possible, upgrade to an HDMI AVR, connect all your devices to the AVR, and then connect just one HDMI cable from the AVR to the TV and then enable EasyLink (HDMI CEC) on all your devices.

This is the way I have it at home and it works really well.

I also connect my laptop to my AVR directly (using HDMI) and bitstream the audio over HDMI for all my videos using ffdshow and MPC-HC (with Hardware Accelerated Video)

hi
the 5705 and 5505 have the same PQ right?
would these new services be available for the 5705d through firmware updates?

thanks

Well yes ... they are exactly the same ... But I am not sure which services you are talking about?

VUDU + Twitter + Philips Media Connect in addition to NETFLIX + Internet Radio

Can someone explain to me what this 1d local dimming thing is?

Everyone has heard that LCD TVs has what we call a backlight panel underneath the main display panel. This backlight is responsible to generate, well... a low ambient backlight!

This allows to reduce the image brightness in the display panel, thus consuming less power in certain situations. A local dimming backlight panel can target different area of the screen to produce more light according to the image currently displayed. This creates richer contrast and consume even less power. For exemple, if you have a sunset, the backlight panel with local dimming will be able to produce an intense background light in the area surrounding the sun.

Local dimming is more efficient with LED backlight technology versus CCFL because LED luminous intensity can be changed in a short time and LED can be changed in blocks. I don't know what the 1D means here however, it might be the way the backlight panel is able to generate the light, but I would appreciate more details.

Useful guide : http://reviews.cnet.com/2795-6482_7-399.html
Quick comparison : http://gizmodo.com/5356411/local-dim...-vs-normal-lcd

Yeah, I understand how local dimming of an led tv works, but I don't understand how a ccfl LCD tv can have local dimming or what 1d local dimming is.

No offense but you don't seem to get it, maybe I explained badly

1D local dimming is "line dimming", that says it all?

Ohhh ... We are still deciding on that ... it is not a software issue but rather a H/W issue ... The 5505D & 5705D are the same but the 5705DV (V = VUDU) uses a different processor which decodes Dolby Digital Plus (which isn't backward compatible) ... which is a VUDU requirement.

Maybe Twitter & PMC will be made available via a firmware upgrade but I doubt we'll do VUDU.

1D = One Dimension i.e. along the Y (vertical) axis in the case of this TV.

There are a number of CCFL tubes horizontally stacked behind the diffuser (helps diffuse light evenly from the CCFL tubes to the LCD panel). The TV has an active backlight management circuit which is driven by the video circuit.

This circuit causes each individual CCFL tube to dim independently based on luminosity of various regions on the screen.

It is called a scanning backlight since it is dims based on the duty cycle of the LCD panel which is 120Hz. There is big article which explains why a 120Hz panel + a scanning backlight looks like a 240Hz panel without a scanning backlight to the human eye.

Anyhoos ... it looks better and saves electricity ... ask the people who have used it ...

IMHO ... I would any day prefer a 120Hz (or any Hz TV) with a scanning backlight + local dimming vs. a pure 240Hz (or any Hz) TV w/o any scanning backlight or local dimming.

well,
i could not wait any longer and I ordered a 46pfl5705d today,
and I can't wait to have it

thanks everybody for all the responses

Hi guys can someone please explain to me or tell me what I'm doing wrong. I bought the 40" version at FutureShop for 600$ which is a steal according to the specs. The image quality is great and i can't complain so far. I do however have a couple of questions. Did anyone try to connect this monitor to a PC? Were I'm getting is that i was expecting to connect to a PC and get as a choice in the refresh rate 120Hz. But no, only 60 hz . At first i thought it was because i pass everything through mt STRDG820 Sony amplifier which separates the sound from my HDMI cables and lets the image pass through to the TV. (is that bad, am I losing picture quality because of my amplyfier?) Anyways i connected the HDMI cable directly between my computer and the TV and still I can only get 60hz refresh rate. Why? how do you get this tv up to 120 when connected to a computer? After reading the forums today i put it on PC mode while connected to my laptop directly through HDMI and have instantly lost a couple of inches of viewing all around the screen although it is set to full hd 1920x1080 @ 60hz . IF i put it back to HDTV it goes back to covering the whole screen. Please help

Thank you in advance

Mihai

That is because the panel refresh rate is 120Hz not the input. All TVs have a 60Hz input.

If you want a true 120Hz monitor which is compatible with nVidia 3D vision you need to buy one of these:

http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...-8&sa=N&tab=wf

@KingvisiblE
Your "couple of inches" lost might be due to the video card drivers setup, some card under scale the output by default for HD resolution.

Also try pressing the "Format" button on your TV remote and set the format to "Unscaled"

hi im new to the forum. was just googling this tv and found you guys!! this is an extremely useful thread for noobs like me. and i have a question...

ive already gotten a set of 5.1 computer speakers. originally i wanted to get a digital decoder and use my set of speakers for the tv (plugging the decoder into the optical output), but as above mentioned not every optical jack outputs 5.1 surround sound. so does this is output surround sound?

thanks for the helppppppp

how you get it for $600? am looking at the site and its sold for $699, and i thought thats a steal. was it a brand new item when you purchase it?

there was a rebate last week at FS, but I guess it wouldn't take long to have another deal on that set.

The S/PDIF Coaxial jack on the TV outputs two channel PCM audio.

Depending on your sources (Cable/Satellite/IPTV Box or Blu-ray Player, you can directly output sound from those devices using a decoder to you 5.1 channel computer speakers. For audio sources from the TV's tuner, you can use surround modes such as Creative CMSS or Dolby ProLogic etc. ... not sure if you are connecting vis your computer or your speakers have a digital in or what kind of decoder are you using?

How does this local dimming affect the picture quality? I would think it would look weird if you could only brighten and dim vertical lines. So if you had a black screen with something in the middle then the area above and below it would be brighter?

Oh, another thing. How much do these sets suffer from flashlighting and clouding of the backlight?

The dimming is not that extreme and sharp. Also the diffuser panel prevents you from noticing stuff like that.