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Official LG XXLD450 Thread - Page 39

post #1141 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smashbro29 View Post

I'm looking to get this TV for my PS3/360, does it matter how big it is in terms of input lag? Do I need to get the IPS to get the 1-2 frames of input lag?

No, the size of the LD450 you get shouldn't affect or add lag in any way. As to your second question, I have a non-IPS version of the set (mine's an AU Optronics A-MVA panel version), and coming off of a CRT before this set, I don't notice any input lag whatsoever when playing PS2 games. I believe the actual input lag tests done by others were done on IPS versions of the set, so there probably hasn't been any conclusive testing done with the non-IPS versions, but yeah, I personally don't detect any input lag at all on my set, so I don't think the panel type matters in this regard.
post #1142 of 1536
I've had the 32LD450 for a few months and the whole time, I was unaware of the 4:4:4 issue. I assumed the the TV had processing that couldn't be disabled and so I have been using VGA for the entire time. It looks great over VGA.

So recently I've been on a quest to get the hdmi input working and no matter what, 4:4:4 doesn't work. Tried hdmi>hdmi (with EDID override), DVI>hdmi (with EDID override, disabled my hdmi audio, uninstalled hdmi audio, tried both DVI ports on my 5770 and still nothing. I've given up hope and returned to the VGA scourge (which looks beautiful still, and yet I hate it).

Also, of course, I restarted between every change and installed the EDID override with each different port/cable combo.
post #1143 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcmix5 View Post

Thank you SO MUCH thepoohcontinuum! Your settings make this TV look amazing as a monitor. I run an ATI 4850 1gb card, and for the life of me I can't get this fullscreen. There is a 1.25 inch border all the way around. I am set at 1080p using a dvi - hdmi to unlabeled port 1.

1. are these exact settings recommended for playing games on the 360 and PS3?

2. will the EDID override fix work for the 42LD420 display?

3. i dont see the pixel map option with my ati 5850 using latest catalyst preview drivers
post #1144 of 1536
I have owned a 32LD450 for about 10 days now, with an IPS panel. It has excellent viewing angles, but I am really disappointed with the black-level performance. Yes, I read comments that this set and/or others with IPS panels are not the best with black levels, but I still did not realize it would be as different from my Samsung 46" set as it is. I got a great price on the set, but in the end I think the best black-level performance will be more important to me than the viewing-angle performance. Other than that issue, the set is excellent in every way. I just hope this is not common to all 32" sets versus larger ones but rather is common to LG and/or IPS-panel sets. Time to go out and look at others now, although I know I probably cannot match the price on this set for quite a while.
post #1145 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisW6ATV View Post
I have owned a 32LD450 for about 10 days now, with an IPS panel. It has excellent viewing angles, but I am really disappointed with the black-level performance.
I recently viewed both the 32LD450 and the 32LK450 (i.e. the 2011 version of this set) and agree that the black levels are rather poor. Both had a D (not a W) in the product code.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thepoohcontinuum View Post
xxLD450 Alternatives
The alternatives listed here are strictly based on what I’ve personally seen with my own eyes.
  • Sony xxEX500 (comparable input lag and picture quality, better black levels, lacks 4:4:4 chroma subsampling (does 4:2:2 instead)).
When I viewed the 32LK450, it was close to a Sony 32BX420. The Sony had both better black levels and brighter whites.
post #1146 of 1536
Hi all,
just purchased my 37LD450 last week. like the pic quality so far. I use it for mainly regular tv and movies. got it last week from BB for 399 plus eco fee plus hst-481$ in all. Checked the back grill of the tv and it says LG display like the pics posted here. The product code is "UA. CCCWLH". having 2 out of the 3 checks for an IPS panel I am guessing it is an IPs panel. Haven't taken the macro shot yet. Do I just switch on the tv and take a pic without connecting it to any video? I didn't quite understand how to do that.

I have heard about the USB hack to play media files but haven't tried it out. I have a philips univ. remote [sru8081/17] programmed for the tv. Can anyone tell me what i should do to get into the service menu to change the option?. I don't want to brick the tv either. so want to ask around the proper method before i try it out.

any help would be appreciated. thanks.

edit: got it to work on my 37ld450 using a philips sru8081 univ.remote. i programmed the remote for the tv and then i pressed the guide button on the remote and it gave me the paswd. i entered 0413 and it opened the menu. went to tool option 3 and changed the divx from 0 to 1.

my tv is an american model so people with this model can try this out. didn't bother noting the firmware or anything as long as it plays the media files.
post #1147 of 1536
I also noticed bluetooth and wifi enabling options which were zeroed in the options menu. does it mean that this tv has those capabilities but not enabled? can someone throw any input on this please.

has anyone enabled anything else safely without worrying about bricking the tv apart from the media playing capabilities of the usb port in the ld450?
post #1148 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by sandyr View Post

I also noticed bluetooth and wifi enabling options which were zeroed in the options menu. does it mean that this tv has those capabilities but not enabled? can someone throw any input on this please.

has anyone enabled anything else safely without worrying about bricking the tv apart from the media playing capabilities of the usb port in the ld450?

Although I haven't seen anyone do it, I wouldn't recommend it -- again, DO NOT enable bluetooth or wifi (or anything else that requires a hardware portion). The LD450 does not have the physical hardware for these features, and enabling them has a high probability of bricking your TV.

The things I've safely enabled in the past are Divx mode, THX mode, and AC3 support (or something like that). THX mode just unlocks two additional picture modes. And I have no idea what AC3 support does -- maybe it enables AC3 codec support for USB media, I've never really tested it out.
post #1149 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by thepoohcontinuum View Post

Although I haven't seen anyone do it, I wouldn't recommend it -- again, DO NOT enable bluetooth or wifi (or anything else that requires a hardware portion). The LD450 does not have the physical hardware for these features, and enabling them has a high probability of bricking your TV.

The things I've safely enabled in the past are Divx mode, THX mode, and AC3 support (or something like that). THX mode just unlocks two additional picture modes. And I have no idea what AC3 support does -- maybe it enables AC3 codec support for USB media, I've never really tested it out.

thanks for your input thepoohcontinuum. I was so delighted to get the media playing functions going that i forgot to check out the others. Will not touch the bluetooth and wifi options. thanks for letting me know. right now it plays mkv,avi,divx and xvid movies. i also have a backup copy of some movies which i just threw them from the dvd i have . they all have vob files and they play too. mp4 files do not play.
will check out the THX option. the AC3 might be for the mp3 files could be audio oriented like you said. will check it out and let you know.
post #1150 of 1536
The xxLK450 models already have video playback enabled.
post #1151 of 1536
After catching up on the ole 4:4:4 issue, for the record, I never had a problem getting 4:4:4 from my ATI card with a DVI -> HDMI connection. Never managed it with HDMI, but by the time the latest EDID override came out that disables HDMI audio and provides 4:4:4 over HDMI for ATI users, I had already bit the bullet and moved on to an Auzentech X-Fi soundcard with DTS Connect for surround and have given up on HDMI audio for the time being. I'm satisfied...

There is a nice new issue I'm suffering from though, along with many others. Has anyone had problems with lost display detection upon system bootup when using ATI drivers beyond version 11.1? Check out this thread. Like these guys, my 450 goes black as soon as I get to the login screen in Windows 7. It's happened with 11.1a (which is newer than 11.1), 11.2, and now the new 11.4 preview drivers. No solution has been found, so I'm stuck with 11.1.
post #1152 of 1536
Hello all...
After a lot of reading on this forum, I took the plunge and bought a 32LD450 to use as a computer monitor. Couldn't find it anywhere locally, as it's disco'd, but found in online at sears, great price, and I won the panel lottery. I'm hooked up to my computer with a DVI-HDMI cable. I'm using Pooh Continuums settings. My problems are two. First, I can't tell if it's displaying proper 4:4:4 chroma. I think I need 4:4:4 chroma testing for dummies. I assume that I can't just open a browser window with the segment of the belle nuit test chart and look at it, right? Do I need to download the full test chart image in a 1080p version then find a picture viewer that will display it full screen?

My second problem is text. It looks like crap. Some letters randomly will look 'fat'. If I type a row of identical characters, say "l", some will randomly have a blue shadow, others a red shadow, and some will look fine. Any suggestions?

And last, I've never had an LCD monitor. When I hooked it up, my desktop takes up more space than the monitor, so the edges are cut off, the top of my top row of icons are cut off, etc. On a CRT, there are monitor controls to adjust the size of the image and move it up/down/left/right. No such controls can I find in the LCDs menu. My Nvidia control panel offers such controls for my CRT, but for the LCD it just allows you to adjust the size of the desktop. When I adjust the desktop to fit the screen, so it takes the whole screen and none is cut off, and apply the settings, then when I look at the resolution settings, it has dropped the resolution to "1080p, 1862 x 1052" and it changes the refresh rate to 59hz. I figure this is bad, since I think you want the monitor to display it's native resolution.

Sorry for the wall of text, I'm a complete newb to all this, so it's a little hard for me to describe things briefly.
Thanks for bearing with me, great forum you guys have here!
- Czo
post #1153 of 1536
czo79-

Welcome to AVS Forum!

The first thing to do on your LG TV is to change the name of the HDMI input to "PC" or "computer", I forgot which is available. (This function is called "input label" or similar.) Doing that will get rid of the cut off edges, which is called overscan. After you have done this, you should be able to go into your computer's resolution settings and pick 1920x1080. If you are using an ATI video board, you will also probably need to use the Catalyst Control Center and find "scaling options", and set that to 0 (the farthest-right setting of the slider). Let us know in another post if these notes solved your problems.
post #1154 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by thepoohcontinuum View Post

The things I've safely enabled in the past are Divx mode, THX mode, and AC3 support (or something like that). THX mode just unlocks two additional picture modes. And I have no idea what AC3 support does -- maybe it enables AC3 codec support for USB media, I've never really tested it out.

i enabled the THX- it gave 2 picture modes, THX cinema and THX bright room. These were in the TOOL OPTION 4 in the menu. Could not find the AC3 option. Also could not see the firmware version used in the tv.
I am riht using a standard reciever which only has s-video out and tv has no s-video. so i am connecting the tv to reciever with composite so the letters in the menu guide of the reciever are not smooth. they have rugged edges. i have edge enhancer OFF. do i have to tweak something to get it to smooth letters or only way is to connect to component out.

I am trying to find a s-video to component out cable. Can anyone point me to where i can get this in the GTA.
thanks.
post #1155 of 1536
czo79,

ChrisW6ATV's response is somewhat wrong, so here's what you need to do...

In order to get 1:1 pixel mapping, set your Picture Mode to 'Just Scan'. If you're still seeing underscan or overscan, then go into your video card settings and adjust these settings accordingly. I don't know about Nvidia cards, but with ATI cards, the under/overscan setting defaults to 15%. Setting this to 0% will fill out the screen.

And labeling the HDMI input to 'PC' is [imo] not recommended. If set to 'PC', the Edge Enhancer is forced to High, which will introduce ringing/halo artifacts around high contrast items (i.e., black text on white background).

If you're using my settings, then your H/V Sharpness is probably at 33/55. Just note that these aren't absolute, you may have to tweak these by +/- 5 in order to compensate for manufacturing variances. Also, I recommend you use rawadesh's settings (but keep H/V Sharpness and Backlight to 33/55 and 70-80, respectively). My old settings are a bit too blue.

Once you get 1:1 pixel mapping, under/overscan corrected, and H/V Sharpness set, then your text should be crisp and sharp. If not, then you may be failing 4:4:4. Read Q11 and Q2 of the FAQ for information in regards to this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sandyr View Post

i enabled the THX- it gave 2 picture modes, THX cinema and THX bright room. These were in the TOOL OPTION 4 in the menu. Could not find the AC3 option. Also could not see the firmware version used in the tv.
I am riht using a standard reciever which only has s-video out and tv has no s-video. so i am connecting the tv to reciever with composite so the letters in the menu guide of the reciever are not smooth. they have rugged edges. i have edge enhancer OFF. do i have to tweak something to get it to smooth letters or only way is to connect to component out.

To determine firmware version, go into Menu, then into 'Customer Support' (I think its the red or blue button), then into the system info area. Firmware version will be there.

Composite connections will yield pretty bad picture quality due to its technology limitations (low resolution, analog nature, limited color space, etc). Because of this, nothing on the TV settings will help you out. Also, since your receiver doesn't have a native component output, a s-video to component converter will not help you out at all, since you're fundamentally limited by the receiver itself (you can't create "detail" from nothing).
post #1156 of 1536
Thanks for the suggestion Pooh Continuum. I tried it, and now it displays 1080p and covers the whole screen with none cut off. Didn't have to mess with the overscan/underscan. Only thing is that it will only display 1080p 24hz w/ 32bit color, or 1080p at 60hz with 16bit color. Again, don't really know much about this stuff, so maybe this isn't a problem. But I've always assumed you want things set to as high a Hz as you can. If you set it to 60hz/16bit color, Vista won't run aero. Which maybe isn't a big deal, I'm just rather used to it. Is this normal-ish? Is there something I'm missing here? Oh yeah, the text on my screen looks amazingly better now! Thanks so much!
- Czo
post #1157 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by czo79 View Post

Thanks for the suggestion Pooh Continuum. I tried it, and now it displays 1080p and covers the whole screen with none cut off. Didn't have to mess with the overscan/underscan. Only thing is that it will only display 1080p 24hz w/ 32bit color, or 1080p at 60hz with 16bit color. Again, don't really know much about this stuff, so maybe this isn't a problem. But I've always assumed you want things set to as high a Hz as you can. If you set it to 60hz/16bit color, Vista won't run aero. Which maybe isn't a big deal, I'm just rather used to it. Is this normal-ish? Is there something I'm missing here? Oh yeah, the text on my screen looks amazingly better now! Thanks so much!
- Czo

That's certainly odd. The LD450 has no problems with 1920x1080/60p/32bit with Aero -- since this is how my computer is set up right now (but using Windows 7 instead). What video card do you have?
post #1158 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by czo79 View Post

Thanks for the suggestion Pooh Continuum. I tried it, and now it displays 1080p and covers the whole screen with none cut off. Didn't have to mess with the overscan/underscan. Only thing is that it will only display 1080p 24hz w/ 32bit color, or 1080p at 60hz with 16bit color. Again, don't really know much about this stuff, so maybe this isn't a problem. But I've always assumed you want things set to as high a Hz as you can. If you set it to 60hz/16bit color, Vista won't run aero. Which maybe isn't a big deal, I'm just rather used to it. Is this normal-ish? Is there something I'm missing here? Oh yeah, the text on my screen looks amazingly better now! Thanks so much!
- Czo

Does it REALLY display at 24hz or is it only reporting that incoming signal is 24hz and it converts to 60hz? I don't have experience with this tv, but I do have with another brand that shows everything at 1080p/120hz. Doesn't matter what is coming in, it automatically shows at 1080p/120hz. It, however, reports whatever comes in correctly, so when I play BD, the tv shows the signal as 1080p/24hz.
post #1159 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by thepoohcontinuum View Post

czo79,

ChrisW6ATV's response is somewhat wrong, so here's what you need to do...

In order to get 1:1 pixel mapping, set your Picture Mode to 'Just Scan'. If you're still seeing underscan or overscan, then go into your video card settings and adjust these settings accordingly. I don't know about Nvidia cards, but with ATI cards, the under/overscan setting defaults to 15%. Setting this to 0% will fill out the screen.

And labeling the HDMI input to 'PC' is [imo] not recommended. If set to 'PC', the Edge Enhancer is forced to High, which will introduce ringing/halo artifacts around high contrast items (i.e., black text on white background).

If you're using my settings, then your H/V Sharpness is probably at 33/55. Just note that these aren't absolute, you may have to tweak these by +/- 5 in order to compensate for manufacturing variances. Also, I recommend you use rawadesh's settings (but keep H/V Sharpness and Backlight to 33/55 and 70-80, respectively). My old settings are a bit too blue.

Once you get 1:1 pixel mapping, under/overscan corrected, and H/V Sharpness set, then your text should be crisp and sharp. If not, then you may be failing 4:4:4. Read Q11 and Q2 of the FAQ for information in regards to this.



To determine firmware version, go into Menu, then into 'Customer Support' (I think its the red or blue button), then into the system info area. Firmware version will be there.

Composite connections will yield pretty bad picture quality due to its technology limitations (low resolution, analog nature, limited color space, etc). Because of this, nothing on the TV settings will help you out. Also, since your receiver doesn't have a native component output, a s-video to component converter will not help you out at all, since you're fundamentally limited by the receiver itself (you can't create "detail" from nothing).

could you link rawadesh's settings?
post #1160 of 1536
Hmmm. I have an EVGA 8800GT. I even tried running it without my second monitor to see if maybe it couldn't do 32bit color at high resolutions on both monitors. Didn't make a difference. I'm not sure if what it says is happening, 24hz/32bit or 60hz/16bit is actually happening. I'm getting that information from the nvidia control panel. When I set it to 1080p/60hz/32bit, wait a second...weird. Just went and changed which monitor was my primary and then changed it back again. Now the control panel is saying that it's putting out 1080p/60hz/32bit, and aero is working. Weird.
And from what I can tell, I'm getting 4:4:4 chroma.
So far, so good. Now I just have to get a sturdier desk (this monitor bounces around like crazy!) and more high def video, all this low res streaming stuff looks even crappier now!
Thanks so much!
- Czo
post #1161 of 1536
For reference for those who are wanted to make sure to get a S-IPS panel. I just bought a 37LK450 (model number 37LK450-UB.CUSYLH) from BB. I also brought along with a 7x loupe to check to see if it was a S-IPS and confirmed the "bracket" pixel structure of the panel. The LK450 designation I believe is for the 2011 model year of the LD450 if I'm not mistaken. The TV is so new that they didn't even have a TV on display, so I asked a salesmen to open up a box and turn it on so I could confirm the panel with my loupe. Just thought I would throw this out there for those interested. Or you can just bring a decent loupe to simply confirm what panel your getting yourself while your there. Picture is good so far, but I've only watched HD fios channels so far. I would venture to say that all 2011 or all LK450's would have a S-IPS panel. Someone prove me wrong!
post #1162 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by dzasta View Post

I would venture to say that all 2011 or all LK450's would have a S-IPS panel. Someone prove me wrong!

I'm not so sure about that. Although it doesn't prove anything, the 32LK450 I saw had a D in the product code. dzasta, what's your product code?

Quote:
Originally Posted by technoloman View Post

I recently viewed both the 32LD450 and the 32LK450 (i.e. the 2011 version of this set) and ... Both had a D (not a W) in the product code.
post #1163 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by vizionblind View Post

could you link rawadesh's settings?

Refer to Q2 of the FAQ.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dzasta View Post

For reference for those who are wanted to make sure to get a S-IPS panel. I just bought a 37LK450 (model number 37LK450-UB.CUSYLH)

Are you sure you have the full product code correct? Its the fourth character that designates the panel type (at least with 2010 models). So in your case, you have a 'Y' panel, which is something that has never been encountered before.
post #1164 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by technoloman View Post

I'm not so sure about that. Although it doesn't prove anything, the 32LK450 I saw had a D in the product code. dzasta, what's your product code?

I've seen several 2011 panels already and it looks like theres going to be D panels and Y panels with Y being IPS (ie CUSY...). I bought and returned a 42LV3700-AUSD.., it wasn't IPS. Got a 42LV5500-CUSY.. and it is IPS. There was a 55LV3700 CUSY.. on display and it was IPS. Also I got a little bit of info from an LG employee that implied certain sizes of certain models will always have one or the other, not a lottery like last year.

I think they're just sticking with VA type panels for smaller (42 and smaller?), low end models. But that's just speculation.
post #1165 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Angry Lion View Post

No, the size of the LD450 you get shouldn't affect or add lag in any way. As to your second question, I have a non-IPS version of the set (mine's an AU Optronics A-MVA panel version), and coming off of a CRT before this set, I don't notice any input lag whatsoever when playing PS2 games. I believe the actual input lag tests done by others were done on IPS versions of the set, so there probably hasn't been any conclusive testing done with the non-IPS versions, but yeah, I personally don't detect any input lag at all on my set, so I don't think the panel type matters in this regard.

While I can't thank you enough for the answer, won't using a console that doesn't support HD introduce lag on ANY HDTV? My knowledge is limited and I've read that in a few places but if it's not true it'll make my life SO much easier.
post #1166 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by technoloman View Post

I'm not so sure about that. Although it doesn't prove anything, the 32LK450 I saw had a D in the product code. dzasta, what's your product code?

My product code is 37LK450-UB.CUSYLH I highlighted the wrong letter. See below.



Quote:
Originally Posted by crkpot View Post

I've seen several 2011 panels already and it looks like theres going to be D panels and Y panels with Y being IPS (ie CUSY...). I bought and returned a 42LV3700-AUSD.., it wasn't IPS. Got a 42LV5500-CUSY.. and it is IPS. There was a 55LV3700 CUSY.. on display and it was IPS.

It looks like I have a "Y" designation for a S-IPS panel as well.
post #1167 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smashbro29 View Post

While I can't thank you enough for the answer, won't using a console that doesn't support HD introduce lag on ANY HDTV? My knowledge is limited and I've read that in a few places but if it's not true it'll make my life SO much easier.

Hi. Well, I have a fairly extensive PS2 game collection (over 70 titles at the moment -- it's my main gaming system), so it's a system I play quite regularly, and I honestly don't detect any input lag whatsoever. The TV I had before this one (up until last June) was a CRT, and even coming straight off of that, I didn't notice even the slightest input lag, and I seem to detect input lag fairly easily since a friend of mine has that issue with his PC, and even though he can't detect it, I can. Of course this is all subjective, and I'm certainly not a "definitive test" with real numbers to show, but yeah, I honestly don't detect input lag at all, even with games that don't do 480p (I have my PS2 hooked up via component, and with component, some games do support progressive scan).

I honestly don't think you'll have any issues with input lag on this TV, regardless of whether or not the source is true HD.
post #1168 of 1536
poohcontinuum,

At the risk of appearing to be rather dim, where do I go to set the picture mode to "just scan?" I can't seem to find that setting anywhere in the LG's menus. Any help appreciated.

Best,

Brian
post #1169 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by briansxx View Post

poohcontinuum,

At the risk of appearing to be rather dim, where do I go to set the picture mode to "just scan?" I can't seem to find that setting anywhere in the LG's menus. Any help appreciated.

I want to say, press 'quick menu' on your remote, use the arrow keys to scroll and then select aspect ratio, then select 'just scan' within the aspect ratio options.
post #1170 of 1536
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Angry Lion View Post

Hi. Well, I have a fairly extensive PS2 game collection (over 70 titles at the moment -- it's my main gaming system), so it's a system I play quite regularly, and I honestly don't detect any input lag whatsoever. The TV I had before this one (up until last June) was a CRT, and even coming straight off of that, I didn't notice even the slightest input lag, and I seem to detect input lag fairly easily since a friend of mine has that issue with his PC, and even though he can't detect it, I can. Of course this is all subjective, and I'm certainly not a "definitive test" with real numbers to show, but yeah, I honestly don't detect input lag at all, even with games that don't do 480p (I have my PS2 hooked up via component, and with component, some games do support progressive scan).

I honestly don't think you'll have any issues with input lag on this TV, regardless of whether or not the source is true HD.

Thanks, This makes things a whole lot easier. Will using extenders (those things to give you more HDMI ports/component inputs etc) increase lag?
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