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Official LG XXLD450 Thread - Page 47

post #1381 of 1536
6/3/11 at 10:51am
As I was reading the service manual linked above, I noticed something interesting in the instructions for for writing EDID data to the EEPROMS. It says:

Download HDMI1, HDMI2, separately

because HDMI1 is different from HDMI2 The bold is not from the manual, it's just to highlight what piqued my curiosity. If I understand the implications of this correctly, this means that the TV would identify itself (and it's operating parameters) differently depending on the HDMI input a device/computer is connected to. Of course, this manual is obviously translated from some other language, so perhaps I am just reading too much into a poorly translated sentence.

Does anyone have information on this (possible differences between HDMI1 and HDMI2)?
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post #1382 of 1536
6/3/11 at 11:43am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post


Third, the white balance most likely is exclusive to your TV as a factory setting and even if others may have some settings, they may not be accurate for your TV, and since yours are now screwed up, I would caution anyone NOT to even try to enter and view their TV EZ-Adjust settings.


Well. By messing up, I meant doing a reset in the white balance menu produced a rather blue-ish tint. Regardless, I've solved the problem by calibrating the white balance settings with my colorimeter. In fact, my greyscale track very close now without even using 10pt IRE.

Nonetheless, I'd like to know what someone else's WB settings are just to see if it matches that of the default set with RESET to SET.
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post #1383 of 1536
6/3/11 at 12:49pm
does anyone has their "Black Level" setting disabled in expert mode? it is set to Auto and cannot be changed. I have a NA 32LD450.
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post #1384 of 1536
6/3/11 at 1:57pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by oooxxx View Post

does anyone has their "Black Level" setting disabled in expert mode? it is set to Auto and cannot be changed. I have a NA 32LD450.

NA? Black Level is always set to Auto on my 47LD520 Expert settings.
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post #1385 of 1536
6/3/11 at 5:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by oooxxx View Post

does anyone has their "Black Level" setting disabled in expert mode? it is set to Auto and cannot be changed. I have a NA 32LD450.

My US 32LD450 has adjustable Black Level in isf Expert Mode. It's High or Low
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post #1386 of 1536
6/4/11 at 12:42pm
something to try if bored

i dont have a colorimeter but tv looks better imo settings

I always thought my 42ld450 didn't produce a vivid enough image even with 100 backlight and 100 contrast

The video game battlefield bad company 1 has a graphic option to balance contrast and brightness. I toyed with the TVs ISF expert mode 2 point contrast settings to see if i could make the contrast box in Bad Company 1 disappear, it didn't disappear until I nearly maxed out red green blue contrast in 2 points. I then lowered the basic contrast setting to get the box visible again

ISF Expert 2
Setting  
Backlight 100
Contrast 95
Brightness 55
H Sharpness 50
V Sharpness 50
Color 80 (PS3, Xbox 360) - 55 (Everything else)
Tint 0
Expert Controls -
Dynamic Contrast Off
Noise Reduction Off
Digital Noise Reduction Off
Black Level High (RGB FULL PS3) - Low (RGB Limited PS3)
Real Cinema Off
Color Gamut Wide
Edge Enhancer Off
Color Filter Off
Gamma 2.2
Method 2 Points

2 Points Settings:
   
RED CONTRAST 50
GREEN CONTRAST 50
BLUE CONTRAST 50
RED BRIGHTNESS 0
GREEN BRIGHTNESS 0
BLUE BRIGHTNESS 0

Haven't noticed any detail loss with the contrast higher - pics with settings above on 42ld450


and right contrast box does appear but just not from camera pic

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post #1387 of 1536
6/4/11 at 12:51pm
Something is awfully wrong if it takes settings that high to give a satisfactory, yet not accurate color palette and image. With back light at 100% expect the TV to give a decent image for maybe half it's rated hours. And for movies or regular TV, settings like these can not in any way give accurate colors, black level, or white level. For a TV to produce it's optimum image, the settings need to be at values that allow operation in the linear portion of it's parameters.
Just an educated opinion, but we also know personal taste enters into it. Whatever that may be.
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post #1388 of 1536
6/4/11 at 1:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kanedo View Post

My US 32LD450 has adjustable Black Level in isf Expert Mode. It's High or Low

Just checked my settings again and the Black Level is set to Auto and is grayed out under Expert mode. However, my tv reception is OTA and not another input so maybe that has something to do with it. I can adjust the Black Level when using the HDMI inputs.
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post #1389 of 1536
6/4/11 at 1:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

Something is awfully wrong if it takes settings that high to give a satisfactory, yet not accurate color palette and image. With back light at 100% expect the TV to give a decent image for maybe half it's rated hours. And for movies or regular TV, settings like these can not in any way give accurate colors, black level, or white level. For a TV to produce it's optimum image, the settings need to be at values that allow operation in the linear portion of it's parameters.
Just an educated opinion, but we also know personal taste enters into it. Whatever that may be.

Agreed. But when these tv's are used as game consoles, who knows what it takes to make the games look presentable
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post #1390 of 1536
6/4/11 at 2:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

Something is awfully wrong if it takes settings that high to give a satisfactory, yet not accurate color palette and image. With back light at 100% expect the TV to give a decent image for maybe half it's rated hours. And for movies or regular TV, settings like these can not in any way give accurate colors, black level, or white level. For a TV to produce it's optimum image, the settings need to be at values that allow operation in the linear portion of it's parameters.
Just an educated opinion, but we also know personal taste enters into it. Whatever that may be.

do movie theaters abide by industry standards on image settings?

I hadn't been to the movies in awhile, recently watched Thor at them and was annoyed with how dark the image was

My other tv is a dynex 26" not many options but I can get the contrast box in bad company 1 with the Dynex to max out after 65 contrast (PS3 RGB set to full) and brightness is 49/50

Lowered Backlight on 42ld450 with settings above and it looks alright now...maybe i screwed around in the EZ Adjust messed up my contrast settings somewhere
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post #1391 of 1536
6/4/11 at 3:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jangaboo View Post

do movie theaters abide by industry standards on image settings?

I hadn't been to the movies in awhile, recently watched Thor at them and was annoyed with how dark the image was

There are technical standards that the movie industry must follow but the way a movie is "presented" is totally up to the director, aspect ratio, cinematography, etc, so that's why Thor may have seemed dark to you. I thought Batman (the first one) was filmed in a very dark manner but that's just how the director wanted to set the mood. As far as the actual theater goes, I don't think there are any standards on how the theater lighting is supposed to be, if that's what you meant.

A good check on how well your tv is setup is to watch a movie that is filmed exceptionally well as far as color, detail, etc goes. What some of us did once we calibrated our sets was watch Seabiscuit and look for specific scenes for the aforementioned color separation, detail, etc. That, and other movies like it, are an excellent, independent way of checking how well your set is calibrated which should transfer to games as well with minor adjustments.
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post #1392 of 1536
6/6/11 at 1:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otto Pylot View Post
NA? Black Level is always set to Auto on my 47LD520 Expert settings.
I just found out that for OVA signal, Black Level is disabled; for cable box, it can be changed to Low/High.
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post #1393 of 1536
6/6/11 at 2:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by oooxxx View Post
I just found out that for OVA signal, Black Level is disabled; for cable box, it can be changed to Low/High.
Ok, good to know. I use the same calibration for HDMI and OTA and my pq is just fine.
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post #1394 of 1536
6/11/11 at 3:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

Something is awfully wrong if it takes settings that high to give a satisfactory, yet not accurate color palette and image. With back light at 100% expect the TV to give a decent image for maybe half it's rated hours. And for movies or regular TV, settings like these can not in any way give accurate colors, black level, or white level. For a TV to produce it's optimum image, the settings need to be at values that allow operation in the linear portion of it's parameters.
Just an educated opinion, but we also know personal taste enters into it. Whatever that may be.

Jangaboo, I've been using the settings you posted back in December on page 22 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=642). Should I use the new settings you posted or stick with the old ones?
The only reason I ask is because 1. Phase says the new settings will decrease the TVs operational hours and 2. Your old settings were in "Game" mode. Will the new settings increase lag since it's Expert mode?

Oh and I was going through my settings the otehr day and according to the TV it has been in use for 2227 hours. I wonder how many hours I have left.
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post #1395 of 1536
6/11/11 at 5:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by HostileSausage View Post

Jangaboo, I've been using the settings you posted back in December on page 22 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=642). Should I use the new settings you posted or stick with the old ones?
The only reason I ask is because 1. Phase says the new settings will decrease the TVs operational hours and 2. Your old settings were in "Game" mode. Will the new settings increase lag since it's Expert mode?

Oh and I was going through my settings the otehr day and according to the TV it has been in use for 2227 hours. I wonder how many hours I have left.

I don't know what set you have or what settings you are using but if they are close to the maximum (like the "flame" modes they use in the show rooms) then you will decrease the life of your panel over time. Just makes sense. At 2227 hours, you've got plenty of time left. I think they're rated for something like 50,000 hours (there's 8,760 hours in a year) but that's for constant use. The rating should be somewhere in the docs or you can find it online.

Lag phase is dependent on the panel type and not necessarily the settings used, whether they are the Presets or the Expert modes which are used for more precise calibrations.

I just took a quick look at the settings. Backlight set to 100 seems a bit drastic to me for the Expert settings. Using the presets, your "calibration" options are less but that may be ok for what you want but you need to do your own settings, for your own tv, in your own environment to get what looks best for you. Also, the type of input used will determine, in part, how well your settings will look and if you're using a PS3, Xbox, or Blu-ray player to calibrate. Bottom line, the best settings are done on your own tv, not someone else's because there are too many variables from set to set and person to person.
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post #1396 of 1536
6/11/11 at 9:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by HostileSausage View Post

Jangaboo, I've been using the settings you posted back in December on page 22 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=642). Should I use the new settings you posted or stick with the old ones?
The only reason I ask is because 1. Phase says the new settings will decrease the TVs operational hours and 2. Your old settings were in "Game" mode. Will the new settings increase lag since it's Expert mode?

Oh and I was going through my settings the otehr day and according to the TV it has been in use for 2227 hours. I wonder how many hours I have left.

hey i'm not an expert on any of this stuff so i'd use what your eyes like the best, i'm never content with settings so I tend to change them often - its always the black night scenes in movies that upset me with IPS panels (could be different on full array LED)
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post #1397 of 1536
6/12/11 at 7:01am
Can someone tell me if these settings are for pc use or for tv. Thanks
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post #1398 of 1536
6/12/11 at 1:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by swfcrule09 View Post

Can someone tell me if these settings are for pc use or for tv. Thanks

I don't remember what his setting parameters were but it depends on how he did the initial calibration. If he calibrated thru a Blu-ray player using the AVS HD709 disk, then the input was HDMI. If he calibrated his set thru his PC, then the input was either RGB or mini-HDMI to HMDI (or worse, DVI->HDMI). Either way, that source is dependent upon the graphics card in his PC. Calibrations are dependent on the input source used and if only the AVS HD709 disk was used alone or in conjunction with other hardware such as a colorimeter. And, to confuse the matter, even within the same model line, calibrations are not always transferable from one set to another due to inherent differences in the electronics and viewing conditions (bright/subdued lighting in the room, daytime/nighttime viewing, use of a back light for nighttime viewing, use of modified pre-sets, expert settings, etc). Using someone else's calibrations are a good place to start but all you can really do is learn what the various settings actually do and try them. Ultimately it's what looks best to you.
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post #1399 of 1536
6/17/11 at 8:01pm
So this TV can be used as a monitor? My local Best Buy has it for $530 and I'm going to go buy it later this week, but just want to make sure.
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post #1400 of 1536
6/17/11 at 11:30pm
Yes it can be used as a monitor (probably half us in this thread use it this way). I've been using my 37LD450 for a computer monitor for about 4 1/2 months and I love it. Every time new peeps visit I get the look out of them when they see it.
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post #1401 of 1536
6/20/11 at 1:15am
Has anyone tried connecting their PC through the D-Sub (PC) input? Does it look good still and support 1920x1080 resolution?

I'm thinking of trying the panel lottery again. If it ends up being a VA panel, I could just give it to my mother who needs a bigger monitor anyways. Thing is, her PC only has a D-Sub output.
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post #1402 of 1536
6/23/11 at 3:40am
Quick question regarding the USB-divx playing capabilities in a 47LD450: I connected a hard drive and there is a progressive de-sync between audio and video. I was watching a movie, and the audio would start to come later and later. I did a rewind hoping that it would solve it and it did.

It has a fast hard drive, so it is not a drive speed issue. Anyone else has noticed anything like this? Is it format-dependent? The file would play fine on a computer... Is it just that the electronics in the TV are not powerful enough? To be honest, I haven't had time to check it with other divx movies. What is your experience?

Thanks in advance for your help!
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post #1403 of 1536
6/27/11 at 7:58am
Does someone knows if there is an equivalent to the LD450 in LG's 2011 TV lineup?

Here in Switzerland xxLD450 are becoming less and less available apparently.

Thanks, MA
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post #1404 of 1536
6/27/11 at 8:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by avsmja View Post

Does someone knows if there is an equivalent to the LD450 in LG's 2011 TV lineup?

Here in Switzerland xxLD450 are becoming less and less available apparently.

Thanks, MA

xxLK450
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post #1405 of 1536
6/29/11 at 10:51am
People keep mentioning the LD450 has bad black levels. I was wondering what does that mean exactly in real life, when actually looking at the monitor. Can anyone explain?

For example, let's say I put on a completely black background with grey or green text on it. Will the black not appear black? Will the text color not be as different from the background as it should be and thus make the reading less pleasant?

Thanks in advance for any help.
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post #1406 of 1536
6/29/11 at 1:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vloody View Post

People keep mentioning the LD450 has bad black levels. I was wondering what does that mean exactly in real life, when actually looking at the monitor. Can anyone explain?

For example, let's say I put on a completely black background with grey or green text on it. Will the black not appear black? Will the text color not be as different from the background as it should be and thus make the reading less pleasant?

Thanks in advance for any help.

A very simple explanation is this: LCD panels in general do not produce a true black "color" like plasmas can. They can be very dark but not pitch black so that at times, when you are viewing a very dark scene, the "blackness" will have a slight grayness to it. And, a pure black background will give you better colors overall. However, it all depends on how particular you want to be. I have an LG with the S-IPS panel and even though it's calibrated, the black is not pitch black but colors look fantastic as well as dark scenes.
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post #1407 of 1536
6/29/11 at 1:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vloody View Post

People keep mentioning the LD450 has bad black levels. I was wondering what does that mean exactly in real life, when actually looking at the monitor. Can anyone explain?

For example, let's say I put on a completely black background with grey or green text on it. Will the black not appear black? Will the text color not be as different from the background as it should be and thus make the reading less pleasant?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Well, any LCD will have worse black levels if the back light is run at 100%. . . which some people apparently think you have to do. The xxLD450 with an S_IPS LCD panel has very good black levels comparable with other brands. Also, with any LCD, it is best to use a "bias" lamp behind the TV for indirect lighting while viewing rather than watching in a completely unlit room. This both helps eye strain and improves perceived black level.
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post #1408 of 1536
6/29/11 at 7:21pm
I have an IPS 47LD450, and I recently calibrated it. Every TV is different, but I thought I would share my settings for those who would like to try them.

I use a Spyder2 calibrator, HCFR, the AVS HD 709 Blu-Ray Calibration Disc, and I found that if you are trying to figure out the CMS settings you must read this post which explains how to do it. Some settings were based on others I've seen posted.

My display device is a PS3, and here are the display settings I'm using:
RGB Full Range (HDMI): Limited
Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr Super-White (HDMI): On
Deep Color Output (HDMI): Automatic

I also use my computer with an NVidia card, and with RGB Limited Range set the results are pretty close to the PS3.

My settings:

Code:
Expert 1 (Lights On) -- 65.142 ftL
Backlight: 48
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 53
H Sharpness: 34
V Sharpness: 53
Color: 50
Tint: 0

Dynamic Contrast: Off
Noise Reduction: Off
Digital Noise Reduction: Off
Black Level: Low
Real Cinema: On
Color Gamut: BT709
Edge Enhancer: Off
Color Filter: Off

Color Temperature: Warm
Gamma: 2.2
Method: 10 Point IRE
Pattern: Outer
IRE     100     90      80      70      60      50      40      30      20      10      0
LUMINANCE       223                                                                             
RED     14      1       7       7       4       3       3       1       -2      -8      50
GREEN   1       3       4       4       2       0       2       0       -2      -9      -50
BLUE    -14     -5      -7      -5      -6      -5      -5      -5      -6      -17     -50

CMS:
RED COLOR       5                                                               
RED TINT        0                                                                               
GREEN COLOR     5
GREEN TINT      5                                                                               
BLUE COLOR      0
BLUE TINT       0                                                                               
YELLOW COLOR    6                                                                               
YELLOW TINT     -1                                                                              
CYAN COLOR      0                                                                               
CYAN TINT       -2                                                                              
MAGENTA COLOR   4
MAGENTA TINT    -2

Expert 2 (Lights Off) -- 32.605 ftL
Everything the same except:
Backlight: 28
dE/dxy Results:
NOTE: Gray 0% cannot be calibrated for, and the spyder2 calibrator unfortunately does poorly with dark levels (it leans green when dark gray), so that's why the error for Gray 10% is so high. My initial calibration gave IRE 10 values that resulted in much lower errors, but I could see that the calibrator wasn't being accurate there. I had to calibrate IRE 10 by eye, and I think the error is actually quite low, much lower than the calibrator thinks.
Code:
Gray 0%: 78.5 / 0.095
Gray 10%: 34.4 / 0.046
Gray 20%: 1.1 / 0.002
Gray 30%: 1.4 / 0.001
Gray 40%: 2.8 / 0.004
Gray 50%: 2.3 / 0.002
Gray 60%: 3.1 / 0.003
Gray 70%: 3.0 / 0.004
Gray 80%: 3.2 / 0.004
Gray 90%: 1.9 / 0.002
Gray 100%: 1.9 / 0.002

Red: 4.8 / 0.005
Green: 5.4 / 0.016
Blue: 4.7 / 0.007
Yellow: 3.8 / 0.010
Cyan: 4.8 / 0.007
Magenta: 10.6 / 0.014




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post #1409 of 1536
6/30/11 at 9:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by djams View Post
xxLK450
Can the LK450 be also used as a monitor?
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post #1410 of 1536
7/2/11 at 4:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Antipodes View Post
Has anyone tried connecting their PC through the D-Sub (PC) input? Does it look good still and support 1920x1080 resolution?

I'm thinking of trying the panel lottery again. If it ends up being a VA panel, I could just give it to my mother who needs a bigger monitor anyways. Thing is, her PC only has a D-Sub output.
This is I have mine connected at the mo and all looks good .. and yes, it does support 1920x1080 resolution! That said I had to fiddle about with the Nvidia Control Panel 'Customize' feature to get it going!

Personally though I've been using 1360x768 ... most of the time I don't even have it connected , using it mainly as a TV.
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