Official LG XXLD450 Thread - Page 10

Got a 42LD450 and the optical audio out doesn't seem to want to work.

The plan is to have [ Xbox 360 / PS3 ] on a HDMI switch, leading to one of the 450's HDMI ports. Then use the TV's optical out port to send audio to the PC (which is using the other HDMI port), and use the PC as the actual audio generating device (headphones, in this case). I got all the hardware needed for this.

PS3 -> HDMI switch -> TV gets me audio from the TV's speakers, so the HDMI switch or cords aren't the problem.

PS3 -> PC via optical audio does work. So it's not the PS3, it's not the optical cable, it's not the PC's input, and it's not the PC's settings.

The problem, then, is that the 42LD450 is not passing the audio along from HDMI to the optical out. And I sure as heck can't find the option in the rather limited menus to enable this, nor in the manual.

Any help?

Edit: Forgot to mention that I did turn speaker output to "Off" per the manual pdf. This didn't help. PS3's menus are silent (should be making click noises, as they do when I couple the PS3 with the PC directly).

not sure as i use a reciever and disable my tvs sound all together. Have you tried changing sound options on your PC. I know that if i bump my sound card to 24bit, 192khz some programs stop working. maybe the computer doesn't like the signal from the tv?

I have to operate under the assumption that the TV will be passing the audio along unmolested (I send two-channel PCM). Otherwise the TV has to re-encode that as AC3, and I seriously doubt LG put in such a processor. There would have been no point.

Are you sure it isnt HDCP ? You can disable it IIRC.

jangaboo, which ld450 set do you have? i have the 47ld450, i used PBC settings too and increased the brightness values that you mentioned above to the 50ft settings, did you notice the reds being too bright? also, did you apply your increased brightness settings to PBC 50ft or 35ft settings or both? thanks

Well I'm having an issue. My 32ld450 will not stay off. Iv tried everything I can think of and it just keeps coming back on. help?

I thought the same thing too, but I *swear* I recall toggling "HDMI audio only", a setting which isn't available with a DVI connection. Dunno. Maybe that was part of my problem, the TV or the GPU mistaking true HDMI. No longer the case, though. Not sure what changed.


Turns out a simple cable swap was all it needed.

I think you can hack Nvidia's HDCP somehow, but (unless I'm blind and I missed it) there doesn't seem to be an option to disable it via the control panel. Pretty sure ATI allows users to turn it on and off, though.

But yeah, it might have been HDCP. Someone suggested I try a longer HDMI cable, so I switched from 4 to 8 feet and it's been running strong through standby, shutdown and reboot since last night. Not a single dropped signal. I'm gonna test the 4 footer on my Blu-ray player later today, see if it's faulty. It's hard to believe the length of the cable was the deciding factor.

Are you plugged in directly to the wall? surge? battery backup? it could also be a faulty power supply on the tv

TV is connected to a PC HDMI and power is connected to a surge protector. No mater weather its connected to the the PC or if the PC is on or off it just keeps coming back on.

Dude, that's weird. So it doesn't require a signal for this to happen? Definitely not normal. My LD450 turns itself off after 10-15 minutes of no signal. Could very well be a defect requiring a replacement. I don't recall seeing an option to turn off or alter the "sleep" functionality. You haven't been messing around in the service menu?

... is the power button on the side stuck, or pressing against something?

Just occured to me, I had zero problems with the signal dropping during my brief period with the ATI card; another reason why I assumed a cable swap would be a waste of time. Very odd. I wonder why the Nvidia card is so fussy?

Oh well. Just FYI.

No signal and it comes back on, unplug the HDMI and it still comes back on,I have done nothing in the service menu, I've only played with IQ settings. I had only used the remote to turn the TV off but after reading your reply I tried it with the side panel power button and I got this message "This function is not available now" in a big blue box with black letters and a "!" in front. I get this message even without the PC being on.

This makes me hopeful

However, I think I'm going to wait until black friday and see if I can get this set in stores for cheap so I won't have to take the panel gamble with Amazon. I think this is definitely the set that I'm going to get considering the low price, low response time, and great PQ testimonies that you guys have been giving.

Yeah, not a good sign. My power button on the side does exactly what you'd expect: It turns the set on and off. Sounds to me like there's something wrong with that button, which in turn has made it impossible for you to turn your set off. If I were you I'd be looking to exchange the unit.

I can't validate your setup since my sound card doesn't have an optical in, but generally a TV's optical out will only work on the ATSC input. So you might be completely out of luck.

Now that I'm happy with the general performance of my 32LD450, thanks in large part to the Nvidia EDID fix and a new HDMI cable, I've finally found time to sit and really start working toward ideal IQ. I've since discovered several tidbits which run contrary to what the majority find appealing, keeping in mind that this is totally subjective. It should also be noted that I'm not interested in 100% color accuracy. My top priorities are deep blacks, white whites and the clearest picture (and text) possible.

DISCLAIMER: This is not a pro calibration. These are subjective opinions from a guy who wants a screen for gaming, movies and surfing. I have a hardware calibrated 24" IPS for color critical work, so I can afford to be a little fast and loose.

I started by using pbc's 10-Point IRE settings as they go a long way toward solving the majority of grievous grayscale errors this set suffers out of the box. I then made a few tweaks.

1. Black Level "High". I've tried several times to calibrate this thing using black level "Low", but I always end up either crushing the blacks or having to sacrifice overall black quality while I crank the brightness to reduce crush. I've since switched to "High" and the Lagom test thanks me. I honestly don't see a major loss in overall black level performance. I simply see more shadow detail on high. No crush whatsoever with pcb's settings.

2. Contrast 99. I'd have it at 100 if I could, but the difference between 99 and 100 is quite a bit of white clipping. Again, Lagom likes 99. No clipping w/ pcb's settings.

So that takes care of black crush and white clip.

3. Backlight 13. I'm still messing with this in combination with brightness, but to offset the high contrast I find lowering the backlight is beneficial. It also deepens the blacks without crushing them. For me, subjectively, too much backlight adds a blue tinge to the blacks regardless of color management, and it drives me batty in games like L4D2 and Amnesia: Dark Descent (which I happen to be playing; Happy Halloween!). Yes, it does make for a dimmer picture, most obvious in Windows, but it's not too bad. It also reduces glare and eyestrain and I personally think it's quite striking in games and movies. Whites are still white without being caustic and neon. To be honest, I've always preferred a dimmer picture.

4. Edge Enhancement "Low". In combination with default H 50 and V 57. I feel this offers the clearest text with my config. This likely has everything to do with the EDID fix. Before I had it in place, Edge Enhancement "Off" with H 34 and V 57 were the best alternative. Oddly, vertical sharpness is still whacky even with the correct EDID. Cranking it up 7 points makes all the difference. I've been using this test image and Neilo's red 4:4:4 image (can't find a link) to "perfect" my sharpness settings. "Off" is a good alternative, though "High" is hideous. Again, this is very subjective as I wear corrective lenses while on the PC.

So that's where I'm at following several hours of tweaking, playing, tweaking and playing some more. The blacks are very impressive with proper lighting, though still underwhelming when viewed in a dark environment. The low backlight helps and I've yet to set up my bias lighting, which would likely improve matters. It should be noted that, even in the dark, the LG blacks kill my 50" Samsung plasma.

As usual: YMMV!

Hello!

I hope you can help me to decide between LG 37LD450 or SAMSUNG LE37C530 (spanish versions). LG best price found is 436€ and SAMSUNG 473€.

Both are very similar. Differences are:

Dynamic Contrast
LG 60.000:1
SAMSUNG 80.000:1

Response Time
LG 6ms
SAMSUNG 8ms

HDMI connections (I don't mind this)

Panel
LG is IPS and/or AUO @ 37" ¿?¿?
SAMSUNG is MVA/PVA

The TV will be used 99% for watching TDT SD (DVB-T) and 1% for videos via USB. No PC nor gaming, so I don't mind input lag.

My most important requirements are:

+ The clearest image under sunlight. The TV will be next to big windows with direct sunlight, so I need a non-reflective screen (I have to close the windows with my actual CRT). I know Samsung C530 has matte screen. Does LG LD450 have matte or glossy screen?

+ The sharpest image with SD content (DVB-T), and with the less blur/contrail possible at motion scenes.

It is also important viewing angles, but not so much. TV will be in a corner so I need 90º more or less (45º+45º)

With these requirements, which of the two possibilities LG or SAMSUNG would be the better?

In case of choosing LG, what panel do I have to look for: IPS or AUO? Which is better for my needs? (I'm not a cinephile so black level is not a big deal) Or is there only one panel mode at 37" ? (42" would be too big maybe...)

Thank you in advance, and sorry for bad english

PS: differences between LD450 and LD420?

LD450 seems highly preferred for PC input. But I still got some money left, so I'd like to know what's the next step up? I already gave up on Sony EX400, so I guess it would have to be ips.

37"-42"
low input lag
4:4:4 input and display (ie pixel sharp text)
Proper syncing, (48/50Hz and 60Hz or 100 and 120Hz) though I think all EU tvs should multi-sync.
Realistic colors (not saturated to hell, no black crush)
Proper viewing angles, but I guess IPS should have those
I guess I have to give up black levels, but heck it, can't be worse than my current setup (2209wa e-ips).

TV is to be fed solely by PC@1080p so I don't care much about the rest (SD, noise reductions, deinterlacing), though I would not mind to have a light and error free frame-interpolator (max 1 frame inserted for a double framerate, I don't wanna go higher) .

Eh, that's about it
I have about 1000$ to spend, but that's in EU so I guess a $1000 set goes for 700$ in USA

My great calibration journey continues. The majority of the points I touched on in my previous post hold true, but now I've gone an additional step and dropped gamma from the universally accepted 2.2 to 1.9.

It should be noted, however, that I'm also creating a custom color profile with my i1Display2 w/ iMatch software. So in effect, I'm stealing 10-point IRE settings and then further tweaking with a 2-point method combined with hardware profiling. Combined with low backlight, gamma 1.9 and some other oddness, I'm really happy with the results so far. Whites are white, blacks are black. iMatch is then able to tweak settings at the GPU level to offset the inherent oddness of my OSD settings. The result appears to be (at least according to iMatch) 6500k, 2.2 gamma with an ideal curve and a black level around 0.1 (I haven't been able to crack 0.1 without severe crush). That's still pretty respectable for an IPS panel.

I'll post my settings when I'm done tweaking. Do keep in mind, these won't be stand alone settings for the LD450. They'll be OSD 10-point IRE settings (stolen!) and 2-point method settings which go hand in hand with a custom color profile for Windows created using iMatch. I wasn't sure if you could tweak both 10-point and 2-point and have them maintain their integrity. Initial signs are positive.

EDIT: Meh. Played some with 1.9. Not sure about it. Blacks actually feel a tad "light". Tweaking continues.

I don't have experience with the C530, but I can answer a few of your questions regarding the LD450.

The anti-reflective coat is interesting. It's part matte, part glossy. It doesn't obscure detail or dirty the whites. You can still see reflections during dark scenes, but they're relatively easy to ignore as the coat does a good job diffusing them. I can't say how it will perform in direct sunlight. Might not be ideal.

The LD450 handles motion very well. Little to no ghosting or other motion related artifacts, at least not on my IPS panel.

Viewing angles are a little sketchy, though it does horizontal fairly well provided you don't alter your vertical orientation.

Look for the IPS screen. The AUO will likely provide better blacks, but in all other respects the IPS is superior.

I just recently bought an LG 42LD450 and it's been working wonderfully, except for one small thing. Let me briefly explain the setup I currently have:

- Samsung 226BW PC monitor with a native resolution of 1680x1050 connected via DVi to a ATi Radeon 4870.

- LG 42LD450 with a native resolution of 1080p(1900x1080?) connected via DVi to HDMi adapter to the same Radeon 4870.

- I'm using the Duplicate these monitors in the screen resolution properties.

I've gotten everything working semi-fine through the catalyst control panel except I'd like to make use of the entire screen real estate of the LG tv. The problem is the Samsung is 16:10 aspect ratio and the LG is 16:9 and no matter what settings I tried, I wasn't able to get the proper size on my screen.

Does anyone have any tips on what settings I'd need to get the full screen real estate?

P.S Sorry if this in the wrong forum, please move to the right one if neccessary.

Assuming you're using Windows Vista / 7, You cannot run different resolutions in duplicate/clone mode. Only in extend mode can you set different resolutions for each display.

I'd like to have the taskbar/icons on both screens if possible. Any way of accomplishing this?

Hmm. I don't think so, unless you're willing to sacrifice some resolution on the LG. Clone requires identical resolutions to work, so you'll always have those black borders as your TV scales the 1680x1050. Maybe you can try an aspect ratio other than "Just Scan", but the result would likely be unattractive even if you managed to stretch the smaller resolution across the larger screen. I could be wrong, of course. There might be a more elegant solution.

Within Windows, there's no way to accomplish what you're trying to do. But there are to be third-party apps that might do the trick...

DisplayFusion
Actual Multiple Monitors

Awesome, I'll give them a shot

I am about to pull the trigger on the 47" model. My Wal-Mart has it on for $799 CDN, and the two boxes they have are both the "W" panel. I hope to be happy with this, I will be using it mainly for movies and games. I am a little nervous about the 60hz and blurring but I will just have to give it a go. I currently game on a 26" Samsung LCD and that has 60Hz refresh rate, and I game with no problems. I will have to wait and see how it preforms. This thread has instilled confidence in my decision and I have viewed the 42" panel at another store and liked what I saw.

If not this, then it would be a LG pk550(plasma) 50 incher.

IPS panels are available in 47 inch models? I always thought the IPS panel were only used in sets 40 inches and below?

I'm sorry, but I just can't figure out how to do this! Can someone please explain this to me as if I'm completely dumb?

I've got a universal remote (Sony RM-VL900), and I programmed it to turn on/off the tv, etc. But I am just not getting the instructions on that page linked above.

Please help?!

The DivX flag is under Tool Option 3...your screenshot shows you in Tool Option 1.