Official LG XXLD450 Thread - Page 11

I don't know what to tell you but going by the instructions in this forum, the fourth letter in the second set of numbers is a "W". Have you heard otherwise, should I ignore the "W" and assume it will be a bad panel? I was hoping to get this TV today, but I don't want to think I am winning the panel lottery when I am really not.

I just started researching this set as I'm also interested in buying one. Was just wondering if IPS panels are really in the larger sized models. When you buy it maybe you can run some tests to see if it really has such a panel.

Wrong screenshot... updated now.
But my problem is getting into the service menu in the first place -- my universal remote controls the tv, but I can't figure out the rest of the instructions on how to access the service menu. Bleh. I'm dumb.

I just picked up an LG 42LD450. The box says the part number is 42LD450 UA.CUSWLH. Looking thought the back grill, the LCD panel says: LC420WUG (SC)(A1). Can you tell me who made this panel? Is it an IPS???

That's an IPS panel. The fourth character of the last segment in the product code is "W", and your LCD panel sticker looks right too.

Well I bought the 47 incher for 698 plus taxes and enviro. fees. I have yet to turn it on, but I am looking forward to it and home I am happy. Honestly this is a low end set but I hope I can forget about that and just enjoy the thing, it's all I can afford for now.

Does anyone know whether you can use the universal remote hack on Canadian models of the 42LD450? I read reports that it'd brick my T.V. Is there any truth to these claims?

Has anyone had sound issues when using headphones?

0I have a LG 32LD450 and I use headphones when I play games. What bothers me is that when I plug my headphones into the headphone jack, I can often hear a noise. It's sort of hard to describe, but it is sort of like a cracking or low static. It seems to happen when sounds of certain frequencies occur. It's not a constant buzzing noise, but occurs at certain times. An example is navigating the menus on the new Xbox 360 Dashboard. The sound that is made when flicking past each panel sort of cracks or sounds "static-y".

I also have a few examples from in certain games, which may help give a better idea of when I experience this noise to those familiar with the games. In Halo Reach, when you die, a timer counts down until you respawn. And each second there is a beep/boop sound. On the 32LD450, each of the beeps/boops sounds like it is cracking or is static-y. But on my smaller 19" Samsung HDTV, I don't hear this crackling when using headphones. Another example is in the very new Call of Duty Black Ops. When I am sitting in the menus, and there is faint music in the background, I can hear stacic-y/cracking noise along with the music. But for example, when a multimplayer map is loading, and there is no sound, I don't hear the noise.

I use the HD VGA cable to hook the Xbox 360 up to the TV. The same thing seems to happen when I use other inputs, such as component inputs (from the Wii). The headphones I use are Sennheiser HD 202 (which I used both on the 32" and 19").

The strange thing is that I don't hear this noise when I just use the TV speakers. At 10 volume I can hear the crackling noise with headphones, but when turning the TV speakers up to as high as 50, I could not hear it. Should I be worried about this? Is there a way I can get rid of this sound?

Brought the set home, assembled my stand and played some blu-rays, Black Ops and tweaked a bit. So far I am happy, based on the ">>>" I am seeing in macro shots, it's an IPS panel. For 699 this thing looks quite good. I did notice a bit too much black light bleed in the upper right corner. I took the TV of the stand, lowered by bracket, thus bringing it closer to eye level, this helped with the bleed quite a bit.

Can't wait to spend more time with it tonight.

What is the serial number on your set? I would like to use it as a reference when i go out looking for a IPS panel. Thanks!

Hi all!
I have found an 42LD450 with the following codes.
Can anyone point out whether it sports an IPS panel or not?
LD450-ZA 009 WRXL68554
Thanks in advance

So I think I'm pulling the trigger and ordering this from Amazon tonight. I really hope I end up with an IPS panel, which considering other people's luck, I feel hopeful. One quick question: IPS panels generally have more input lag than TN. Is it really all that noticeable? I'll be using this set for console gaming pretty much exclusively.

If you are ordering a 42LD450 the lag is only 4ms. Not an issue. This line of LG TVs has really great input response. Panel latency is not input lag.

Okay thanks for the clarification. Also while this may be hard to quantify, what kind of chances do you think I have of getting an IPS panel model from Amazon? I'm crossing my fingers because I really can't afford to buy it at a store for $450 + tax. $415 with free shipping from Amazon is just too good.

EDIT: I'm ordering the 32LD450 for the record.

Based on others in the thread and what I've seen in several local Walmarts, I would say you have maybe a 50 to 75% chance. Amazon will take it back if it isn't up to your expectations. Good price though!

Good call. Ordering now with overnight shipping (Amazon prime )

I'll post tomorrow and relay what panel I got. *crosses fingers*

Man I have been having a helluva time getting skintones to look right on Expert setting. I eventually resorted to tweaking Hue under my Nvidia control panel. It was a matter of a few degrees, but it made all the difference between weird olive yellow and natural looking skin with a hint of pink blush. Could be the GPU itself was skewing the color. Interesting thing, skintones were the only thing to look odd. The rest was beautiful. Regardless, just a head's up to anyone using the LD450 as a PC monitor. You may need to resort to your control panel to make fine corrections.

So what calibration settings do you guys recommend?

i've had the same yellow skin tone issues with the LG tv's I've used

37LH30 - yellow skin tones fixed by switching to natural picture mode

42ld450 - natural picture mode no longer included in 2010 models, adjusted red tint +3/+4 on expert1 picture mode helps remove some yellow on peoples skin tones but not entirely and raising the red tint even higher +15 makes it look almost normal but it also turns other red objects onscreen off in color

@Jangaboo: About the gaming performance video from Youtube you posted of the 42LD450, what about the motion blur in the background during the Toy Story 3 part and the streaking blacks in the Splinter Cell part? Have you experienced this with yours?

I need a good TV for gaming and was hoping S-IPS would be better with blur than that.

Is that just as good as an LCD gets?

like in first person shooters when you look around the screen blurs? I think the 120hz/240hz might solve the blurring or Plasma TV

the IPS 42ld450 i have still blurs

IPS doesn't have the smearing i've noticed with VA where the image drags along, its different from the blurring

Yeah, mainly the blur in shooters and stuff. I can handle some blur, but not the amount my Samsung currently has. It's 120hz, but a VA panel. Guess I'll have to try out an IPS in person to see if I can handle it.

The problem with the 120/240hz thing is that the sets that have it (like the 550) seem to have more lag than the 450. It's like I can't have the best of both worlds. I'm trying to stay in the 30ms range for lag.

Product key: 32LD450-UA-CUSWLHO.


Looks like I got an IPS! My gamble was successful!

Funny, that's exactly where I ended up a few days ago: Red tint 15. It did help, but I wasn't happy with how it affected the overall PQ, which is why I ended up messing with Hue on my GPU. Not sure what I'd do if I weren't hooked to a PC with that additional level of tweakibity.

Expert mode is definitely the worst offender for yellow skin. I can achieve perfect skintone and a really accurate gamma curve on Game Mode if I crank it to Warm 47 and then create a profile with my i1D2, but text looks terrible lacking the separate H and V sharpness. Tweaking continues.

You'll probably notice some blur even on the S-IPS. If you absolutely require a total lack of blur in an LCD, chances are your only hope is a super fast 1 or 2ms TN gaming monitor, but then you sacrifice so much. To me, motion blur during fast turns is something you get used to. It even starts to look natural. Ghosting and trailing, on the other hand, are impossible to ignore and hard to adapt to. I've never experienced ghosting/trailing on my LD450.


The other sure fire way to tell if you have an IPS screen is even simpler than reading the sticker, but only works if you can actually touch the screen. Simply drag a knuckle gently across the screen. If it leaves a "trail" (you'll know it if you see it), it's NOT an IPS panel. No trail, you're looking at IPS.

Nice to hear from you again De3k, I was worried you ended up in an insane asylum due to your relentless crazy paranoia with tweaking your TV

A few questions for you...

1) are you still using an nvidia card, or is it an ati card now?
2) this "yellow skin tone" problem, do you have a test image that exemplifies this problem that you could send me? I haven't really noticed this issue, but then again, I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for either.

i'm using PBC settings on page 2 and it might be the reduction of blue on the 10 point IRE (not all tvs are the same and PBC said his was not IPS). When I increase blue a few points at the sub 40 level it helps remove some of the yellow but I have no colorimeter to make better adjustements, Game mode the faces don't appear yellowish but there's too much blue everywhere

May just be how LG's XD engine technology displays colors (Yellowish) because Sony Bravia has more of a redish tone to the image and Samsung DNie has more of a blueish tone

Oh, I'm still here and well past my two week no hassle return period, so I'm in it for the long haul! Relentless tweaking continues, as does the paranoia.

1) Nvidia!
2) Not really. It doesn't require a test image for me. All I need do is watch a movie or look at a picture of a couple white dudes. The issue is quite simply a lack of proper hue in caucasian flesh tones. They tend to look yellowish as opposed to the "pinkish hue" one would relate to "white" skin. It's very obvious when I move an image between my 24" and the LG. Faces tend to look olive and lack pink/red highlights/lowlights.

I have an additional layer of nonsense to deal with as I'm looking at a very accurate monitor on my left with an extended desktop. I can easily move a picture or a video between the two in real time and compare the IQ.


Admittedly, hue and tint tweaking are a lazy, messy way of dealing with the issue. It impacts overall PQ on so many levels. I can only assume the problem is buried in the grayscale somewhere. I do have an i1D2 and I'm about to run out and purchase a calibration DVD. Hopefully this guide will lead me to the promise land.

Does anyone know if getting the 47LD450 mean definitely an IPS panel? Because I want to order this TV for its low input lag and I might not get a chance to see the product code in front of me. If not, I'll have to travel to the store and pick it up there.

I made a few changes to Game mode and managed to "score" a more accurate result than with Expert, at least according to the profile I created with i1D2 and iMatch. RGB was super tight from 0 to 100. This included cranking it to Warm 47 to eliminate the blue. Not sure how much of this can be attributed to the settings as opposed to the calibration hardware. The major downside was text quality, which was grievous. If I can recreate a similar result on Expert, with the superior text quality, I'd have the total package.

Can't recall the actual settings beyond Warm 47. The tweak options on Game mode are very limited, though. I'll post 'em up when I get home.