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The **Official** Denon 3311CI/ 991 Owner's Thread NO PRICE TALK - Page 338

post #10111 of 10203
Thanks, friend biggrin.gif
post #10112 of 10203
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Ah, so this was indeed an *intentional* maneuver to try and use the sealed version as the "mid bass module" of sorts, and the ported sub as a dedicated "ultra low" driver. Understood.

Yes! It was an intentional purchase. I went to audition subs and heard a dual sub set-up combined of a ported and a sealed sub. It was awesome. However, on the audition, none of the crossovers for both subs were lowered to 45Hz, but surprisingly - I could distinguish the sound from one to the other.
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

With this type of setup you want to optimize as much as possible BEFORE running Audyssey. Audyssey has no bass management function where it can control the two subs separately... all it "sees" is one subwoofer when it measures. Audyssey is creating a combined EQ filter for the summed response of the two subs, so if you run Audyssey with both fully open and then turn down the LPF after Audyssey, the combined response is now different and you are no longer operating in a well EQ'd bass environment. So you need to get everything configured as best as possible prior to running Audyssey, and then when it is optimized,

I agree. So what I did was before running Audyssey, I leveled both subs using an SPL meter via test tone. Measured the ported first with the sealed sub switched off and vise versa.

After measuring both levels of the subs to 74db, I ran Audyssey with only the ported sub active. I switched off the sealed sub. After the calibration, I switched on the sealed and did my sound check on movies. The subs were both boomy and unlike what I experience during audition, I could not distinguish the sound coming from either sub. They both sound the same. This is where I decided to lower the crossover knob of the ported sub to 45Hz, hence to eliminate the boominess and for that sub to take control of the lower bass output.
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

The honest truth is that this is a difficult setup to configure properly. The old "garbage in / garbage out" adage applies here... Audyssey can only work with what it has and the better the setup is BEFORE you run Audyssey, the better the final results. Ideally you would have some actual measurement software that would allow you to see how the subs interact, and get the best response prior to running Audyssey. In the absence of this, I think your first step needs to be optimizing the location of the sealed sub since that's the one that will be handling the load of the bass that you actually HEAR. If you haven't yet, google "sub crawl" and you can find some advice on selecting a good location. Once the sealed sub is optimized and providing smooth, even output at the listening zone, then you can add in the ported sub with the LPF set low as a ultra-low frequency "enhancer".

But bottom line it will probably require some legwork to get this unorthodox setup working right.

I am familiar with the "sub crawl" but have not done it yet. smile.gif I know for a fact that placement is the main issue here. I will really have to relocated the sealed sub.
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Ah, now that I think about it I realized the issue here. SPL meters are simply not very accurate in reading low frequency signals. Most SPL meters have a "correction table" which allows proper readings with a restricted frequency signal. When you do a normal SPL measurement on a full bandwidth pink noise type signal, the reading is right, but when you restrict it to 45Hz and below the meter is probably just not reading it properly. So the SPL isn't changing, just the ability of the meter to read it. So you should set SPL with the LPF set wide open, and then adjust the LPF afterwards and not touch the gain knob.

Got it! Thanks again Batpig! wink.gif
post #10113 of 10203
Quote:
After measuring both levels of the subs to 74db, I ran Audyssey with only the ported sub active. I switched off the sealed sub. After the calibration, I switched on the sealed and did my sound check on movies. The subs were both boomy

Aha! THIS is the problem. You ran Audyssey with only one sub active, and then turned on the other sub after calibrating. Why?? You now have an uncalibrated setup!! Audyssey created an EQ filter according to what it "heard" from the ported sub, and then you REMOVED most of the frequency range of the ported sub (by lowering the LPF) and replaced that bandwidth with a different sub, in a different location... so it is having an EQ filter applied to it that is totally wrong!!!

You need to do the pre-optimization first (find best location for sealed sub, lower LPF of ported sub, etc) and then run Audyssey with BOTH subs connected and active. Again, Audyssey will create an EQ filter to try and provide flat bass for the COMBINED response of the two subs. Do NOT futz with anything (turning subs on/off, changing LPF) after calibration. The only thing I would even think of tweaking after calibration would be the sub level itself, if you want to run the bass a little "hot".

On a side note, not sure what you mean by "distinguishing the sound coming from either sub" but, in a proper set up, you don't WANT to be able to distinguish the individual pieces. You should have a smooth, blended system, with the bass being smooth and rich and non localizable. After calibration the two subs (and the rest of the system) should operate as a seamlessly integrated unit.
post #10114 of 10203
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Aha! THIS is the problem. You ran Audyssey with only one sub active, and then turned on the other sub after calibrating. Why?? You now have an uncalibrated setup!! Audyssey created an EQ filter according to what it "heard" from the ported sub, and then you REMOVED most of the frequency range of the ported sub (by lowering the LPF) and replaced that bandwidth with a different sub, in a different location... so it is having an EQ filter applied to it that is totally wrong!!!

You need to do the pre-optimization first (find best location for sealed sub, lower LPF of ported sub, etc) and then run Audyssey with BOTH subs connected and active. Again, Audyssey will create an EQ filter to try and provide flat bass for the COMBINED response of the two subs. Do NOT futz with anything (turning subs on/off, changing LPF) after calibration. The only thing I would even think of tweaking after calibration would be the sub level itself, if you want to run the bass a little "hot".

On a side note, not sure what you mean by "distinguishing the sound coming from either sub" but, in a proper set up, you don't WANT to be able to distinguish the individual pieces. You should have a smooth, blended system, with the bass being smooth and rich and non localizable. After calibration the two subs (and the rest of the system) should operate as a seamlessly integrated unit.

Brilliant!!! Thank you! This must be the reason why my system sounds the way it does. I will re-calibrate with both subs active and we'll see the result. Thanks again Batpig! YOU ROCK!!! smile.gif
post #10115 of 10203
You were right Batpig!!! I re-ran the Audyssey calibration today, based on your advice and Viola!!! Success!!!smile.gif

If my sub was boomy 100% - it's now down to about 5 or 10%! BIG BIG improvement. I just have to do some adjustments to get it savvy as I can. smile.gif Maybe adjust the "Reference Level Offset" to completely eliminate the remaining "boominess." I'll plav around with it...

My obvious and noticeable impressions...

BEFORE: Very boomy bass. I could feel the harsh pounding sound of the subs. Based on my listening experiences from different HT's, I knew it was NOT right at all. frown.gif

NOW: The sound from both subs are enveloping - filling up the room with bass vibe. Adjusting the LPF on the PB12 to 45Hz prior to calibration and keeping the SB12 at max resulted in an attribute of sound property - harmony. The bass is more "suave" now.

I will re-run the Audyssey calibration again on the weekend, during the night, as when I ran it this morning, there were a lot of ambient noise. Overall, I am happy that the sound is now the way it is. Thanks for your help Batpig! You ROCK!!!smile.gif
post #10116 of 10203
Panurgy OEM DENON REPAIR (New Jersey), rec'd my 3311 yesterday; we shall see... cool.gif
post #10117 of 10203
Can anyone direct me to the right page. I am trying to get my 3311 to act like a 7.1 (with 2 channels to patio) and switch amp assign to 5.1 + 2 channels to zone 2 in the master bedroom.

So far all I can do is get 5.1 in the L/R and zone 2. Tried plugging in patio channels in every possible spot (e.g. FW, FH) and no audio under any amp config. Help!
post #10118 of 10203
It's only a 7.2 AVR (ie. 7 total channels), so with 5.1 in the main zone and 2 more on the patio ... that's it. Amp Assign set to Zone 2. The FH/FW speaker posts are dedicated posts and there only for convenience (ie. choice of only one of either SB, Zone 2/3, FH, or FW). If you want to run 2 more speakers to the MB as Zone 3, you would need to connect an external 2CH amp to the Zone 3 pre-outs.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6
Edited by jdsmoothie - 3/11/13 at 5:55pm
post #10119 of 10203
jdsmoohie,
Are you saying the 3311 can be used as 9.2 receiver if you use an additional amp?
I was told on one of these forums that it can't do 9 channels even with another amp.
post #10120 of 10203
The context in which you were told that was likely regarding the inability to run 9.2 in the "main" zone. To be more specific, the 3311CI cannot do 9.2 in the "main" zone, however, as it has both Zone 2 and Zone 3 pre-outs, you can have up to 7.2 in the main zone as well as use each of the Zone 2 and Zone 3 pre-outs to add 4 more speakers.

post #10121 of 10203
Quote:
The context in which you were told that was likely regarding the inability to run 9.2 in the "main" zone.

Yes it was exactly that. Thanks for explaining.
post #10122 of 10203
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

It's only a 7.2 AVR (ie. 7 total channels), so with 5.1 in the main zone and 2 more on the patio ... that's it. Amp Assign set to Zone 2. The FH/FW speaker posts are dedicated posts and there only for convenience (ie. choice of only one of either SB, Zone 2/3, FH, or FW). If you want to run 2 more speakers to the MB as Zone 3, you would need to connect an external 2CH amp to the Zone 3 pre-outs.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6

As always thank you for your clear response. Cheers!
post #10123 of 10203
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

It's only a 7.2 AVR (ie. 7 total channels), so with 5.1 in the main zone and 2 more on the patio ... that's it. Amp Assign set to Zone 2. The FH/FW speaker posts are dedicated posts and there only for convenience (ie. choice of only one of either SB, Zone 2/3, FH, or FW). If you want to run 2 more speakers to the MB as Zone 3, you would need to connect an external 2CH amp to the Zone 3 pre-outs.

http://www.amazon.com/AudioSource-AMP-100-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00026BQJ6

That's pretty much my current set-up and it's working well for me.

I have 7.1 in the main zone (living room) w/FH. I have the AMP-100 connected to the Zone 2 pre-out and it's feeding two pairs of L/R speakers--one pair in my dining room and the second in my master bathroom.

One small issue I have is that there is a slight audio delay between the main zone and zone 2. I only notice it during dialogue, particularly on my TiVo connected via HDMI to the SAT/CBL input. I've tinkered with the audio delay setting under the Audio/Video Adjust menu without any noticeable improvement. Is there a way to compensate for this delay?

A second issue involves the source selection between main zone and zone 2. I have zone 2 set to "source" (cf. page 62 of owner's manual) since I want it to output by default whatever source is selected in zone 1. However, occasionally zone 2's Source Select setting will change from "source" to the specific input playing, e.g. "internet radio," without my having directly intervened. I can understand the deviation in zone 2 source if the main zone is off or if the user selects a different source for zone 2, but I thought setting "source select" to source would keep zone 2 locked to what ever source is selected in the main zone and I don't understand what is causing it to change this setting. When this happens I usually go to the web controller zone 2 screen and hit the source button to reset the selection. (AFAIK, this setting is only accessible on the main unit and the web controller, not on either of the remotes.) FWIW I make my source selections for the main zone either via the main remote or the web controller, not on the main unit.
post #10124 of 10203
Adjusting the audio delay setting won't help because it's not Zone 2 that's delayed, Zone 2 is AHEAD of main zone because it's a straight analog path, whereas Main Zone has all this digital processing going down. Setting video mode to "Game" defeats some of the video processing and can really help with the delay.

As to the second issue.... that's weird. Are you sure it's totally random? The "Source" setting should work as you understand it, I'm not really sure why it's changing on its own....
post #10125 of 10203
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

Adjusting the audio delay setting won't help because it's not Zone 2 that's delayed, Zone 2 is AHEAD of main zone because it's a straight analog path, whereas Main Zone has all this digital processing going down. Setting video mode to "Game" defeats some of the video processing and can really help with the delay.

Thanx for that tip, batpig; now that you have pointed it out, I found the instructions to this effect on page 70 of the manual. Based on my initial sampling, setting the video mode to "Game" definitely makes an improvement in the audio synchronization. Do you know whether there are any other ramifications I should be aware of entailed in changing the video mode from "Auto" to "Game"?

Quote:
As to the second issue.... that's weird. Are you sure it's totally random? The "Source" setting should work as you understand it, I'm not really sure why it's changing on its own....

I doubt that it's random; I just haven't sussed out the cause. But I wonder whether it could have something to do with how I am using the web controller. I have the index and zone 2 web pages saved to a Firefox bookmark folder; I routinely open a Firefox window and load both URL's simultaneously to separate tabs so that I can make any adjustments to either zone on the fly. I guess there could be some "cross-pollination" of commands between the two tabs.
post #10126 of 10203
Quote:
Do you know whether there are any other ramifications I should be aware of entailed in changing the video mode from "Auto" to "Game"?

As far as I can tell this setting disables / bypasses the video scaling, which reduces delay. I can't figure out any other impacts.
post #10127 of 10203
changed mine from Auto to Movie; what does that do?
post #10128 of 10203
"Process video normally" is all the owner's manual sez...
post #10129 of 10203
I don't think anyone really knows... like I said above all I was able to figure out was that "Game" mode bypasses the scaler.
post #10130 of 10203
Protection mode::::::
While setting up a second sub::::::

I turned off the new sub and adjusted the gain on my old sub so that it hit 73 dbs while the receiver's test tone was 0. I turned off the first sub and adjusted the new (to me) second sub the same way. When I was backing out of the menu I heard a click and the AVR croaked. I powered it back up and it came on for about 5 seconds then went into protection mode again. Then I unplugged it for a few minutes and now it won't turn on at all, just the red flashing light. I haven't done a reset yet, I wanted to post it here first to see if anybody has an idea as to what may be happening? As always I appreciate any advice. Thanks......................
post #10131 of 10203
make sure none of the speaker wires are touching each other
post #10132 of 10203
That's the first thing I checked. After doing a reset I called Denon and he said it was toast and I have to take it in.............................Bummer!
post #10133 of 10203
I feel your pain, mine did the same thing, which is why I own a 3312; that and wouldn't update
post #10134 of 10203
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougReim View Post

That's the first thing I checked. After doing a reset I called Denon and he said it was toast and I have to take it in.............................Bummer!

I would suggest doing a few more resets in succesion before giving up on the AVR. Then unplug it overnight and try the resets again the next morning.
post #10135 of 10203
might as well un-plug; mine was unplugged since June, but, maybe you'll get lucky sure hope so
post #10136 of 10203
I'll try a few more resets tonight.
On a brighter note, I hope, I just ordered a 4520 from BB. Should be here next Wednesday. I had made up my mind to upgrade anyway, and this forced the issue.
post #10137 of 10203
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougReim View Post

Protection mode::::::
While setting up a second sub::::::

I turned off the new sub and adjusted the gain on my old sub so that it hit 73 dbs while the receiver's test tone was 0. I turned off the first sub and adjusted the new (to me) second sub the same way. When I was backing out of the menu I heard a click and the AVR croaked. I powered it back up and it came on for about 5 seconds then went into protection mode again. Then I unplugged it for a few minutes and now it won't turn on at all, just the red flashing light. I haven't done a reset yet, I wanted to post it here first to see if anybody has an idea as to what may be happening? As always I appreciate any advice. Thanks......................

Wow! So sorry to hear that. I did exactly the same thing about two weeks ago when I got my new sub and everything went fine. Hope you won't have to replace your receiver.
post #10138 of 10203
rec'd my AVR-3311CI BACK from DENON moments ago; they did NOT send back the original box...will update soonest...
post #10139 of 10203
I dropped my 3311 off at Denon's authorized service center in Baltimore this morning and they told me 2 weeks before they look at it and probably 1-3 weeks after that, depending on availability of parts. Total 3-5 weeks before I see it.
post #10140 of 10203
maybe they under promise and over deliver? mine went to New Jersey via UPS; arrived a week ago; the repair description: RECOVERED MAC ADRESS (sic) UPDATED FIRMWARE TO VERSION LAST; Unit has been cleaned, checked all functions have been tested...

so far checked firmware: LATEST, NO Upgrade Available (we checked AirPlay, works fine) with the Marantz iPhone App...

my wife is connecting it in the front room (parlor) to AM & FM Antennas, Toshiba HD-A30 HD DVD, Samsung BD-C6500 Blu ray, Comcast HD Cable Box, OTA TV Antenna (Back-up), Onkyo SKS-HT540 7.1 Channel Home Theater Speaker System, and Samsung LN40C500 40-Inch 1080p LCD HDTV...will run Audyysey from 8 pos'ns...
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