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The **Official** Denon 3311CI/ 991 Owner's Thread NO PRICE TALK - Page 103

post #3061 of 10228
How do you program a Logitech Harmony One to control Zone 2 for this receiver?
post #3062 of 10228
Zone 2 is added as a separate device. When you go to the "add device" screen and input the model number, it will give you a screen with checkboxes and zone label inputs below so you can name zones and select which ones you are using (see attached JPG screenshot).

Since you already have your main zone device added, just uncheck "Room 1" and name Zone 2 and keep it checked.
LL
post #3063 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emig5m View Post

Could that even be done with a update/added feature? I'd pay for that update if so....

It is NOT going to happen! Don't even waste your breath, or let idle internet speculation snowball into a full fledged rumor... it will not happen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by glangford View Post

It would depend on the capability of the processor.

Yes, the limitation is the processor. The 3311ci has only the single DSP chip unlike the higher-level models with dual DSP. Previously the single-DSP models ran MultEQ and only the dual-DSP models could run MultEQ XT.

The new processing algorithms that enabled MultEQ XT32 to run using the same processing power as regular XT, also allow XT to run on the single-DSP models that used to only be able to handle regular MultEQ. That is how Denon could bring back XT on the 3311 model (the 2809 had dual DSP with MultEQ XT, the 3310 Denon saved money by switching to single DSP and regular MultEQ).

Quote:


How much margin does it have in processing capabiilty to handle and process 4x (32 postions instead of 8) as much data.

the 32 does not refer to the positions, you are confused with the Pro Kit. MultEQ XT 32 has 32 TIMES the filter resolution of MultEQ XT (512x instead of only 16x) but still uses 8 measurement positions.
post #3064 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

It is NOT going to happen! Don't even waste your breath, or let idle internet speculation snowball into a full fledged rumor... it will not happen.



Yes, the limitation is the processor. The 3311ci has only the single DSP chip unlike the higher-level models with dual DSP. Previously the single-DSP models ran MultEQ and only the dual-DSP models could run MultEQ XT.

The new processing algorithms that enabled MultEQ XT32 to run using the same processing power as regular XT, also allow XT to run on the single-DSP models that used to only be able to handle regular MultEQ. That is how Denon could bring back XT on the 3311 model (the 2809 had dual DSP with MultEQ XT, the 3310 Denon saved money by switching to single DSP and regular MultEQ).



the 32 does not refer to the positions, you are confused with the Pro Kit. MultEQ XT 32 has 32 TIMES the filter resolution of MultEQ XT (512x instead of only 16x) but still uses 8 measurement positions.

Thanks for the education. I knew it was the processor. So it is really the algorithm increase (filter part of the algorithm) and processing power and not a simple I/O issue with increased positions. Good to know. I really should spend some time in the audyssey thread.
post #3065 of 10228
I found the explanation from Chris in the Audyssey thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by audyssey View Post

MultEQ XT 32 is a major new development in the MultEQ algorithm since the original release in 2004. It has been 2+ years in the making and the result of countless hours of algorithm development and some new math.

The main limitation in AVRs today is the available processing power in the DSP chips responsible for running all the digital algorithms. The chips are getting faster every year, but the algorithms coming out are greatly outpacing the chip evolution. Improvement in room correction performance can only come by increasing the resolution of the filters so that finer and finer details of the response can be captured and corrected. But, increasing the resolution means that we must take up more computational power in the chips. That was just not going to happen.

To get around this, we had to go way outside the box. It's not often that you ask: how can we make the algorithm compute more data, but take up fewer resources? That's what we have done with MultEQ XT 32. Using multiple sampling rates in the measurement and filter synthesis process we derived a method that increases the resolution of the MultEQ XT filters by a factor of 32 from what we have today. That gives it many thousands of individual control points with which to shape the response that it measures so that it can achieve the desired response.

This huge increase in resolution is applied equally to all channels including the subwoofer. The most obvious benefit will be in the low frequency range where it's needed the most.
post #3066 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealDeal1 View Post

Although the 4308ci dynamic eq does not have an ref offset setting as in the 3311.
All other features are fabulous except for way too much bass in dynamic eq even when set at the lowest setting. Has anyone experienced too much bass when dynaic eq is turned on and found a way to fix it? I can live without the processing but it is a shame to lose the fabulous high end frequency detail that it produces at lower listening volumes.

Hi, real. I refer you to the batpig guide Audyssey FAQ, which addresses some fixes for this issue. Let's review. The amount of DynEQ effect is controlled by the MV setting. DynEQ "knows" it and applies less effect automatically as you approach reference and has zero effect when MV=0. DynEQ boosts the bass, the surrounds and to a lesser degree the highs. It should work perfectly for film soundtracks directly off DVD or Blu-ray, but not for films broadcast on TV/cable or music CD's, as these are no longer necessarily at a reference level. So for the latter sources, you can control the DynEQ effect by the dynamic level offset and/or the input level, which do essentially the same thing. For ex., if you are listening to TV with MV at, say, -25 and it's too bassy, you just trim down the input level by 10 dB or use the 10 dB offset if you have it. Then naturally you will turn up the MV=-15 so it sounds just as loud. But now the bass tames down, as do the surrounds. If this is not working, you may want to relocate your sub slightly (especially if it is near a corner or wall) or rerun Audyssey with a tight grouping of mic positions within a 2-3'radius of MLP.

DynVol is another matter entirely. It is compression, which, as you turn it to higher settings (day-> eve-> MN) decreases dynamic range. It will, for ex., tone down the jump in volume of commercials or special effects explosions, but it does not control DynEQ directly. Most people turn the MV up when using DynVol, so that alone tames down DynEQ, as explained above.

Let us know your results as you continue to tweak.
post #3067 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealDeal1 View Post

I read this forum from beginning to end as I always do before buying a receiver. I like the features of this reciever and got it a great price from Electronics Expo.

The one downside is that I cannot set dynamic eq up in any way that is pleasing, the bass is just too high on the low end and sounds really artificial. I tried using the dynamic volume set to midnight and set the offset to 15db and that tamed it the most but there were still moments when both front channels (set to large) and the sub were just producing too much bass. Now you would think that you could set the manual eq to lower the bass and then turn dymanic eq "on". However, dynamic eq is not allowable when using manual eq. Bummer. I see that another person had the exact same issue with too much bass. My sub was set to LFE+main and then finally to just LFE. It's sad because dynamic eq does so much for the high frequency range but the boatload of bass just kills it.

I ran auddessy auto setup twice to make sure the settings were correct. I found that my sub settings were off in distance both times. I have a 15 inch sub. I had always kept it a little turned up to get that extra boom on balanced audio (without the extra bass already introduced). After testing with a SP meter I found that the -12db level set by auto setup was correct. amazing since this seems so low compared to all the other speaker levels but the SP meter doesn't lie.

I toyed with the settings for weeks trying to get it to sound right. Finally, I turned off dynamic eq. Sad but I started without this kind of processing anyhow since I upgrade from my AVR 1603 to this avr 3311 which was set to tone control anyway. The sound difference is noticible as I can discern more refined sound from the same speakers.

The thing is that my 4308ci which I have in another room which the exact same speakers except for the rear surrounds, sound perfect with the audessey curve and dynamic eq turned on (yes I purchase the upgraded feature pack which gave me dynamic eq and dynamic volume although I only use dynamic eq). Although the 4308ci dynamic eq does not have an ref offset setting as in the 3311.

All other features are fabulous except for way too much bass in dynamic eq even when set at the lowest setting. Has anyone experienced too much bass when dynaic eq is turned on and found a way to fix it? I can live without the processing but it is a shame to lose the fabulous high end frequency detail that it produces at lower listening volumes.

I wound up turning off DynEQ for similar reasons. I thought it made the sound muddy and lost top-end clarity. It doesn't seem to boost treble at all for me and turning off DynEQ makes the sound clearer. Bass doesn't seem to be lacking with it off. I use the Audyssey curve alone for movies and custom eq for 2-channel music.
post #3068 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

Hi, real. I refer you to the batpig guide Audyssey FAQ, which addresses some fixes for this issue. Let's review. The amount of DynEQ effect is controlled by the MV setting. DynEQ "knows" it and applies less effect automatically as you approach reference and has zero effect when MV=0. DynEQ boosts the bass, the surrounds and to a lesser degree the highs. It should work perfectly for film soundtracks directly off DVD or Blu-ray, but not for films broadcast on TV/cable or music CD's, as these are no longer necessarily at a reference level. So for the latter sources, you can control the DynEQ effect by the dynamic level offset and/or the input level, which do essentially the same thing. For ex., if you are listening to TV with MV at, say, -25 and it's too bassy, you just trim down the input level by 10 dB or use the 10 dB offset if you have it. Then naturally you will turn up the MV=-15 so it sounds just as loud. But now the bass tames down, as do the surrounds. If this is not working, you may want to relocate your sub slightly (especially if it is near a corner or wall) or rerun Audyssey with a tight grouping of mic positions within a 2-3'radius of MLP.

DynVol is another matter entirely. It is compression, which, as you turn it to higher settings (day-> eve-> MN) decreases dynamic range. It will, for ex., tone down the jump in volume of commercials or special effects explosions, but it does not control DynEQ directly. Most people turn the MV up when using DynVol, so that alone tames down DynEQ, as explained above.

Let us know your results as you continue to tweak.

Sound: Thanks for the advise. I read batpigs FAQ and found it very informative. I thought about turning the front speakers from Full band to small and playing with the crossover but thought that could not possibly be the issue since my 4308ci had the fronts as large. But after reading batpigs page, it did just that. The overpowering bass from the fronts got tamed or crossed over to the sub to be more precise. Fronts sound good now. It makes sense to let the sub handle the lows since that is what it was designed for but my fronts produce good clean bass so I used to prefer their bass in addition to the sub but dynamicEQ changed the way they sound. I set the crossover on fronts and center to 60Hz (I tend to buy my fronts and centers big) and now they are not overpowering. I'll change them to 80Hz if detect any excess boom.

Auto setup had put my sub at 26.6 ft when it is only at 6.3ft but behind the couch. After reading the explanation, I set it back to 26.6 ft. The highs are now rich again. I'm listening to Slacker now and am getting good highs without the overpower boom from the fronts. Now if I feel there is too much bass I can just lower the sub a notch. Ref level offset is set to -15 dB for my taste. 0 Hz produces too much boom from the sub. My normal listening volume seems to be -30 with this receiver. I'm going to give it a try with a blu-ray tonight. Thanks a million for the help.
post #3069 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emig5m View Post

I wound up turning off DynEQ for similar reasons. I thought it made the sound muddy and lost top-end clarity. It doesn't seem to boost treble at all for me and turning off DynEQ makes the sound clearer. Bass doesn't seem to be lacking with it off. I use the Audyssey curve alone for movies and custom eq for 2-channel music.

It still sounds good w/o dynEQ but you just have to turn it up higher. I really like the way dynEQ handles the high frequencies at lower levels. Try moving the lower frequencies to your sub and manipulating your sub. It did improve for me. I'm going to give it a few days before I decided to keep it that way or go back to dynEQ=off.
post #3070 of 10228
Stupidest question ever:

Can I disconnect the TV Speaker attached directly to my pio 5071 and use my new center channel (attached to AVR) instead for cable viewing? I have had the stock speakers attached since I bought this thing years ago.

Will the 3311 let me assign like a "cable TV mode" for center channel only instead of using all other speakers (L/R, surrounds, and sub).

thanks!
post #3071 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealDeal1 View Post

...I read batpigs FAQ and found it very informative...

Yeah, batpig is a guru for sure. And I'm glad to be of help. If you had the sub set to LFE & Main with speakers set to large, you were getting double bass, which always exceeds reference bass. And even if not, the bass from even capable satellites does not reap the benefit of the many extra filters the sub channel gets. I played around with 60 across the fronts too, it's pretty nice, with tight bass well-localized in the front sound field. But eventually I just settled on 80 as it takes a significant load off the speakers and the AVR, especially nice for those occasions when crankin' it up! As you have found, this technology works for 99% of us if we keep tweaking it. Enjoy.
post #3072 of 10228
Thanks to batpig's page, I think I found my sweetspot. I returned my front speakers to full band (large) and am getting that beautiful tight bass punch that I love so much from them. The trick was to decrease the input source level to trick the receiver into not overcompensating for the difference between reference and actual volume level. I took my blu-ray input level down -10db and turned the receiver volume +10db higher. The result was less bass but great detail. The master volume ended up at around -12. Reference level offset was set to -10db. It sounds great! After watching the blu-ray I decided to bump up the Input level to -5 db to get a little more bass. Sure I'm using more wattage and increasing my power bill a tad but you can't put a price on good sound.
post #3073 of 10228
sorry this might sound stupid,
I just got my AVR-911, and notice there is 3 stickers on it.

Are those 3 stickers on the AVR-911 easily removable ? the top long one seems to be, but not sure about the "ipod" and "win7", as they seems to be very glued-on. I prefers to remove it, but rather not leave a "glue stink" ;-P

thanks!
post #3074 of 10228
After I had ran audyssey I set everything to small and speakers to 60hz...LFE I set to 80hz. Well after some reading I changed the LFE to 120hz as suggested and changed the speakers to 80hz. WOW i sall I can say everything was louder and much more clear. I have RC30's for mains, RC-lcr for center and RC 10's for surrounds. Dont get me wrong it sounded great before, but now have more bass. I am guessing the extra bass I am getting from my sub is due to the 120hz setting? I was going to try setting my speakers back to 60hz instead of 80....or should I leave 80? Meaning they will play anything 80hz and above?
post #3075 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRealDeal1 View Post

...Sure I'm using more wattage and increasing my power bill a tad but you can't put a price on good sound.

Great news that it's sounding good, but don't be concerned as there is actually (infinitesimally) less power used in the AVR with those settings. And if you are not using your sub you're saving there too.
post #3076 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by vschaos View Post

After I had ran audyssey I set everything to small and speakers to 60hz...LFE I set to 80hz. Well after some reading I changed the LFE to 120hz as suggested and changed the speakers to 80hz. WOW i sall I can say everything was louder and much more clear. I have RC30's for mains, RC-lcr for center and RC 10's for surrounds. Dont get me wrong it sounded great before, but now have more bass. I am guessing the extra bass I am getting from my sub is due to the 120hz setting? I was going to try setting my speakers back to 60hz instead of 80....or should I leave 80? Meaning they will play anything 80hz and above?

Raising the LFE LPF setting from 80 to 120 should have little to no audible effect, as there is very little or no content in that range for the vast bulk of material you play, but it is recommended anyway. It is a bit confusing, but this is actually not a crossover. It simply sets a high limit to the LFE channel content only, not the sub channel.

You can play with the xover settings on capable speakers to see what you like. For ex., I have Polk towers FR/L and they sound great with the xover at 60. The bass is tight and precisely localized in the front soundfield (kick drum, bass guitar, etc), especially nice for listening to good 2 Ch music. Now, my sub is slightly to the right and behind my FR. So when I increase the xover to 80, I lose slightly on the precise localization. But, especially for reference-level listening to 5.1 (an action movie, for ex.), I prefer the higher xover. It takes a load off the towers (which after all have 6.5" drivers) and the AVR's amps and lets my sub with its far larger speaker and separate amp do the work. If your sub is further from the fronts (like in the back) YMMV. A xover of 80 should still be fine, but frequencies above 80 are more localizable by the ear.
post #3077 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

Raising the LFE LPF setting from 80 to 120 should have little to no audible effect, as there is very little or no content in that range for the vast bulk of material you play, but it is recommended anyway. It is a bit confusing, but this is actually not a crossover. It simply sets a high limit to the LFE channel content only, not the sub channel.

You can play with the xover settings on capable speakers to see what you like. For ex., I have Polk towers FR/L and they sound great with the xover at 60. The bass is tight and precisely localized in the front soundfield (kick drum, bass guitar, etc), especially nice for listening to good 2 Ch music. Now, my sub is slightly to the right and behind my FR. So when I increase the xover to 80, I lose slightly on the precise localization. But, especially for reference-level listening to 5.1 (an action movie, for ex.), I prefer the higher xover. It takes a load off the towers (which after all have 6.5" drivers) and the AVR's amps and lets my sub with its far larger speaker and separate amp do the work. If your sub is further from the fronts (like in the back) YMMV. A xover of 80 should still be fine, but frequencies above 80 are more localizable by the ear.


Thanks for the education!! I am borrowing a friends 10-inch sub that "works", but not that great due to the large room. I have tried a few locations and it seems best fit to the left of my left main. I think what I "felt" and "heard" was due to the load being taken off by raising the xover to 80 allowing the mains to perform better(afterall I only have 5.5" Drivers). My next thing is to save for a sub....leaning towards an SVS, but it all boild down to money. I'd rather save and get what I need/want rather than buying something I wont be happy with.
post #3078 of 10228
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jojo665 View Post

sorry this might sound stupid,
I just got my AVR-911, and notice there is 3 stickers on it.

Are those 3 stickers on the AVR-911 easily removable ? the top long one seems to be, but not sure about the "ipod" and "win7", as they seems to be very glued-on. I prefers to remove it, but rather not leave a "glue stink" ;-P

thanks!

Yes, very easy to remove and they won't leave a mark.
post #3079 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by vschaos View Post

... I'd rather save and get what I need/want rather than buying something I wont be happy with.

Glad to be of some help. You can pick up a lot of info on these threads, as I have. Sub placement can get tricky, due to the nulls/peaks created with those low freqs. Here is an interesting guide to sub placement. I might be tempted to shop around for a good used sub off craigslist temporarily (people are constantly upgrading, and since it's local you can actually check that it works), then you can always resell it at a similar price when ready to upgrade. My HT is in a 16’X22’ room with 8’ walls and vaulted 12’ceiling. Yet my Polk PSW 350 (10", 100W), no gunslinger in the sub world, seems just fine. I am a guitar/bass guitar player by avocation and like tight, punchy, musical bass and hate diffuse, overly loud/boomy bass.
post #3080 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post

Glad to be of some help. You can pick up a lot of info on these threads, as I have. Sub placement can get tricky, due to the nulls/peaks created with those low freqs. Here is an interesting guide to sub placement. I might be tempted to shop around for a good used sub off craigslist temporarily (people are constantly upgrading, and since it's local you can actually check that it works), then you can always resell it at a similar price when ready to upgrade. My HT is in a 16'X22' room with 8' walls and vaulted 12'ceiling. Yet my Polk PSW 350 (10", 100W), no gunslinger in the sub world, seems just fine. I am a guitar/bass guitar player by avocation and like tight, punchy, musical bass and hate diffuse, overly loud/boomy bass.

My HT is in a 16x36 room and 9 foot ceilings. Not sure what kind of sub I am borrowing, but it does ok. Just when an explosion happens in a movie or something that should give a "punch" this sub isnt that great since it has to fill such a large room. Great video by the way!
post #3081 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by vschaos View Post

My HT is in a 16x36 room and 9 foot ceilings. Not sure what kind of sub I am borrowing, but it does ok. Just when an explosion happens in a movie or something that should give a "punch" this sub isnt that great since it has to fill such a large room. Great video by the way!

Depending on your preference for "punch" in a room that size, it may be a job for 2 subs! Question, if you get out of MLP & walk around & sit in different places, does it mostly sound better in terms of bass? If so, the problem may be that your MLP is in a null.
post #3082 of 10228
I have finished reading this whole thread. Thanks what a wealth of info. I am looking to get a 3311 to put in my basement in a media closet. The main room is open with a half wall/drink ledge dividing the room. The 5.1 speakers will be on the side where the screen is. I have prewired for 2 more speakers on the non screen side. I was hoping that those 2 speakers could play what was playing in on the screen for those not immersed in the screen 5.1 side. Or that I could play music out of those 2 if I wanted. I also have 2 other prewired speakers in another room in the basement that I was hoping to play music etc other than what is playing in the theater (my zone 3). Can the 3311 do this or am I dreaming? Is there another receiver that can do this? I don't want to get any other amps if I don't have too. Thanks for you help.

DJ
post #3083 of 10228
The 3311 is a 7.2 AVR so without adding an additional amp, with a 5.1 setup in your main zone, you only have 2 more channels left for either stereo in Zone 2 or mono in both Zone 2 and Zone 3. If you want the same source in both Zone 2 and 3 you could connect an impedance matching speaker selector to the Zone 2 speaker posts and then send the same stereo audio to both Zone 2 and Zone 3. Also note that you would be limited to only analog and PCM 2.0 to Zones 2/3 so if you have an HDMI source playing in the main zone and want to send that also to Zone 2, you would have to also connect an analog cable or digital optical/coax (PCM 2.0 only).
post #3084 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post
Depending on your preference for "punch" in a room that size, it may be a job for 2 subs! Question, if you get out of MLP & walk around & sit in different places, does it mostly sound better in terms of bass? If so, the problem may be that your MLP is in a null.
very true....now which two you recommend? also sorry, but what is MLP?
post #3085 of 10228
I think from searching MLP is "Main Listening Position"? If so then yes it does, but not so much. Here is a link to some photos.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post19410808
post #3086 of 10228
MLP = Main Listening Position, yes

Sub recommendations will depend on budget

In terms of crossovers, definitely stick with 80Hz for the RC-10's. The RC-30's / RC-LCR can take a 60Hz crossover but there is really no downside to 80Hz, and more of the bass will be shifted to the subwoofers.... but with your current "inferior" subwoofer, you might find it actually sounds better with the front 3 speakers at 60Hz since they probably produce cleaner bass.

Remember also that you can set a separate crossover for multichannel vs. 2-ch stereo on the Denon AVR's (Manual Setup > Audio Setup > 2CH Direct/Stereo). So you could go 80Hz all around for movies, but switch to 60Hz for critical 2-ch music (for example).
post #3087 of 10228
I sent my 3311ci in for repairs for the Internet connection that I lost so waiting to hear
Took it to the mom & pop dealer I bought it from they will send it in or get me a new one

I have a question. I have a adcom 2535 4 channel amp that I use for zone 2 and zone 3
2 channels of the amp go to zone 2 and the other 2channels go to zone 3 my problem is
Zone 3 plays much louder then zone 2. All the setting for both zones were set the same am I
doing something wrong here? How should I set the settings?
Thanks for any help I can get. This thread is the best and thanks to all who put the time in to answer
all of us novice
post #3088 of 10228
I am a new proud owner of the AVR3311ci, after having the AVR-3805 for 5 years. I've read BatPig's articles (very nice!) and still have a few quick ones for the group:

1) BatPig describes how Zone2 can be used and refers to 2.0 PCM over SPDIF or Optical. I don't know what this means. I just want my PC to output (over SPDIF or optical) iTunes music to Zone2. Can this be done or not? Do I need to change a setting on the sound card to force 2.0 PCM, whatever that is?

2) I have the new Apple TV which outputs both HDMI and Optical. Should I expect Zone2 to work if I plug in an optical Toslink to the Denon?

3) What about Zone 3? Can I expect to have different music playing in all 3 zones at once? I guess I don't understand what value Zone3 is, if using only speaker wire (not amp-to-amp). Further, where do I plug the Zone 3 speaker wire? Right now, I've bundled up speaker wire for Zone2 and Zone3 and squished them together in the Surr.Back/Amp Assign speaker ports.

4) last question, regarding the iPod integration, I use an iPhone 4 and the music is displayed just fine, but when I hold down the SEARCH button and it goes into iPod controlled mode, should I expect to see videos played to HDMI out? I hear audio from the video, the video is stopped on the iPhone, and I say "yes" to the "Display on TV" prompt from the iPhone. I see no video, even after pressing "Enter" several times as the manual states. Anyone gotten this to work? Would love to play videos right from the phone.

BTW, I did update to the latest firmware last night with no issues.
post #3089 of 10228
1) what this means is that you can't expect HDMI audio to go to Zone 2/3. Hooking up an optical cable should work fine for music (since music is 2.0 PCM already).

2) yes, you will want to use optical for audio and it will work fine; you may need to configure the ATV to output audio over optical (it may default to HDMI audio when it senses the HDMI connection)

3a) yes, if you want you can have 3 separate sources playing in 3 separate zones

3b) because your receiver only has 7 built-in amps, 2 of which are assignable, you cannot power both Zones 2 and 3 with internal amps (unless you switch them both to MONO output). So you are correct that you are not getting any "value" from the 3 zones if you are using internal amps only. If you want to have true separate "zones", you will need to add another amp. If you are OK with the two zones not being independent, you can hook up to the internal amps but you should add an in-line "impedance matching speaker switch" to protect the receiver from the load of 4 speakers running off two amps. You will be limited to the same source in both "zones" but at least you will have independent power control (via the speaker switch).

4) no video via the USB connection, audio only. See the note on pg 27 of the manual under the Browse/Search chart. If you want to get video output from the iPod you need to use a separate iPod dock.
post #3090 of 10228
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smoothjake View Post
my problem is
Zone 3 plays much louder then zone 2. All the setting for both zones were set the same am I doing something wrong here? How should I set the settings?
things which could cause this:

1) the volume for the two zones are different in the AVR (remember there are separate volume controls for each zone)

2) the volume on the Adcom amp is different for the separate channels (if your amp has a volume control)

3) the speakers in the two zones are of different sensitivity

are you SURE that your settings are the same for both zones??
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