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The **Official** Denon 3311CI/ 991 Owner's Thread NO PRICE TALK - Page 136

post #4051 of 10211
jdsmoothie,

Aaaah, so if I turn off video conversion I lose
the volume overlay? Interesting.

Would you recommend having the video conversion
on when running 3D or does that automatically get
bypassed?
post #4052 of 10211
Just received my 3311 as a surprise early Christmas gift from my wife (and boy was she surprised lol). I currently have a 5.1 set-up with rear surrounds and just added wides. I just want to be sure: I wire the rear surrounds to the "Surround" terminals correct, not the "Surr Back/Amp Assign" terminal ?
post #4053 of 10211
I set up my 3311 yesterday. I'm having an issue with my HTPC. I used to run analog from my HTPC to the old receiver and HDMI for just video to the TV. Now I hooked it up nice and clean with just HDMI for both audio and video to the receiver. For the most part this works just fine but in a few situations the audio cuts out briefly. Like every 5 seconds for just an instant. When it happens I notice something on the 3311 flashes off just for a second. I am confident this is a problem with my HTPC, but, I'm hoping someone here can help me understand the significance of the 3311 indicator flashing off. Does this indicate a loss of data but the link is still up, does it indicate the link dropped out, could it be a periodic handshake hiccup, etc?
post #4054 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJF View Post

Just received my 3311 as a surprise early Christmas gift from my wife (and boy was she surprised lol). I currently have a 5.1 set-up with rear surrounds and just added wides. I just want to be sure: I wire the rear surrounds to the "Surround" terminals correct, not the "Surr Back/Amp Assign" terminal ?

Correct. Although you may have them in the rear, they are actually supposed to go on the sides which is why the "surround" posts are used.
post #4055 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald Epstein View Post

jdsmoothie,

Aaaah, so if I turn off video conversion I lose
the volume overlay? Interesting.

Would you recommend having the video conversion
on when running 3D or does that automatically get
bypassed?

Gets bypassed.
post #4056 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by scottlindner View Post

I set up my 3311 yesterday. I'm having an issue with my HTPC. I used to run analog from my HTPC to the old receiver and HDMI for just video to the TV. Now I hooked it up nice and clean with just HDMI for both audio and video to the receiver. For the most part this works just fine but in a few situations the audio cuts out briefly. Like every 5 seconds for just an instant. When it happens I notice something on the 3311 flashes off just for a second. I am confident this is a problem with my HTPC, but, I'm hoping someone here can help me understand the significance of the 3311 indicator flashing off. Does this indicate a loss of data but the link is still up, does it indicate the link dropped out, could it be a periodic handshake hiccup, etc?

The HDMI light is likely going on and off due to the intermittent connection.
post #4057 of 10211
I posted this before, wanted to make sure people are aware of this potential issue, plus I have an update. I have no idea if this problem is unique to my receiver, would like to hear from others!

I was curious enough to take a look at the file produced by "Save" in the web interface. In my case, it consists of 743,984 bytes of .... zeros.

Tried it several times, with the same result, using Firefox on Linux and OSX. Tried Safari, but the receiver apparently doesn't support Safari, got a DNS error on some strange URL (goformformSaveLoad_SaveConfigLocalIP?) that Safari didn't support.

(Oh, looks like maybe Denon left off the site part of the URL, and Firefox and Safari treated the URL differently. That should have been http://10.0.1.112/goform... 10.0.1.112 is the address of my receiver. Little glitch in the web UI's HTML...)

Call Denon support. Guy who takes the call can't understand why I think there's a problem. He keeps repeating "did you try restoring your settings". Doesn't understand why I wouldn't want to try that. (Like, maybe I don't want to brick my receiver for Christmas?)

I ask to talk to a supervisor, stopping short of calling the support guy and idiot. Wait a few minutes. Explain the problem again. At least he understands why this might be a problem, and why I'm reluctant to restore a file of all zeros.

I've got a reference number to return the receiver if it still doesn't work after trying Internet Explorer and resetting the microprocessor.

I just tried saving under Windows 7 using Internet Explorer, again with the same result. And this time I checked the file with "V" on Windows (see below). So, that's two different browsers, two different file dump programs, three different operating systems, same result - a file of all "zeros".

So, only thing left is to try a reset, and send it back if that doesn't work.

In the mean time, interested in knowing if other people are seeing this problem and/or are successfully saving and restoring. On Linux or OSX, you can use the "hexdump" command-line program to dump the content of a binary file. On Windows I highly recommend the "V File Viewer" (use View, Hex mode) for this sort of thing.
post #4058 of 10211
I'm doing the Audessey Auto set-up and I keep getting an error message that my front speakers are out of phase but I checked them and they are not. Sometimes it says both are out of phase, sometimes just the right speaker.What could it be?

Also, the auto set-up only checks the Fronts, Center and rear surrounds, why doesn't it detect the Front wides that I added?
post #4059 of 10211
Out of phase errors can be ignored as long as you have confirmed the speakers are wired correctly.

Also, make sure you have AMP ASSIGN set to "Normal" and the "Wide" speakers selected.

Get in the habit of saying "side" surrounds as that's what they are (regardless of where you physically place them).
post #4060 of 10211
jdsmoothie,

You have been of real help here. Thank you.

Could you please (if it was you originally) repost
the link to the PDF file? The last few pages with
the link go to AVS's Amazon link program.

Happy Holidays!
post #4061 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtara View Post

I posted this before, wanted to make sure people are aware of this potential issue, plus I have an update. I have no idea if this problem is unique to my receiver, would like to hear from others!

I was curious enough to take a look at the file produced by "Save" in the web interface. In my case, it consists of 743,984 bytes of .... zeros.

Tried it several times, with the same result, using Firefox on Linux and OSX. Tried Safari, but the receiver apparently doesn't support Safari, got a DNS error on some strange URL (goformformSaveLoad_SaveConfigLocalIP?) that Safari didn't support.

(Oh, looks like maybe Denon left off the site part of the URL, and Firefox and Safari treated the URL differently. That should have been http://10.0.1.112/goform... 10.0.1.112 is the address of my receiver. Little glitch in the web UI's HTML...)

Call Denon support. Guy who takes the call can't understand why I think there's a problem. He keeps repeating "did you try restoring your settings". Doesn't understand why I wouldn't want to try that. (Like, maybe I don't want to brick my receiver for Christmas?)

I ask to talk to a supervisor, stopping short of calling the support guy and idiot. Wait a few minutes. Explain the problem again. At least he understands why this might be a problem, and why I'm reluctant to restore a file of all zeros.

I've got a reference number to return the receiver if it still doesn't work after trying Internet Explorer and resetting the microprocessor.

I just tried saving under Windows 7 using Internet Explorer, again with the same result. And this time I checked the file with "V" on Windows (see below). So, that's two different browsers, two different file dump programs, three different operating systems, same result - a file of all "zeros".

So, only thing left is to try a reset, and send it back if that doesn't work.

In the mean time, interested in knowing if other people are seeing this problem and/or are successfully saving and restoring. On Linux or OSX, you can use the "hexdump" command-line program to dump the content of a binary file. On Windows I highly recommend the "V File Viewer" (use View, Hex mode) for this sort of thing.

What are you viewing the DAT file with? If I open mine in TextEdit (Mac) or Notepad (Windows), mine is most definitely not all zeros. It's 743,984 bytes and mostly in an encrypted format, although a few characters are readable here and there (i.e. my Pandora ID & password).
post #4062 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkozlow3 View Post

What are you viewing the DAT file with? If I open mine in TextEdit (Mac) or Notepad (Windows), mine is most definitely not all zeros. It's 743,984 bytes and mostly in an encrypted format, although a few characters are readable here and there (i.e. my Pandora ID & password).

I was going to confirm that as well. Binary files can appear as all 0's in a text only editor.
post #4063 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtara View Post

I posted this before, wanted to make sure people are aware of this potential issue, plus I have an update. I have no idea if this problem is unique to my receiver, would like to hear from others!

I was curious enough to take a look at the file produced by "Save" in the web interface. In my case, it consists of 743,984 bytes of .... zeros.

Tried it several times, with the same result, using Firefox on Linux and OSX. Tried Safari, but the receiver apparently doesn't support Safari, got a DNS error on some strange URL (goformformSaveLoad_SaveConfigLocalIP?) that Safari didn't support.

I just looked at my file in Notepad, it looks NON-zero. Here are first few lines:

—X >¼ ù \\ 0000 eZË( VZ ¥Z ù
U …Z ¥Z ¥Z ¥Z ¥Z H êZ+‚ Z”B _D2 2 ,,,hù NhhhȱR (À ‚
5D &%
'À_Dþÿ 13 ‡ÿÿÿ‡ÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿÿ UU UU ä ±D€ PHONO UMq 3Y€ CD UMq \\X€ @ TUNER UMq EY€ @ DVD UMq ÞY BD UMq )X @ TV ULq {X SAT/CBL UMq ÉY
€ @ GAME ULq
post #4064 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Out of phase errors can be ignored as long as you have confirmed the speakers are wired correctly.

Also, make sure you have AMP ASSIGN set to "Normal" and the "Wide" speakers selected.

Get in the habit of saying "side" surrounds as that's what they are (regardless of where you physically place them).

Thanks JD.
post #4065 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronald Epstein View Post

jdsmoothie,

You have been of real help here. Thank you.

Could you please (if it was you originally) repost
the link to the PDF file? The last few pages with
the link go to AVS's Amazon link program.

Happy Holidays!

My link still works ... simply click on "Downloads and Manuals."
post #4066 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJF View Post

Thanks JD.

Glad to help. Keep in mind that any AUTO SETUP trim setting other than -12db for the sub is good and additional channel adjustments for any speaker can be made via the remote to suit your own preference, although you're better off leaving them alone for 2-3 weeks to adjust to them before making any trim changes.
post #4067 of 10211
I'm not sure if I should set my speakers to large or small. I'm using Def Tech all around:

Power Monitor 700's in front (which have built in powered subs)
C/L/R 2002 Center
UIW RLS II for Wides
UIW BP/A's for Surrounds

All of these can go down to at least 28 hz. Should I set them as Large?
post #4068 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJF View Post

I'm not sure if I should set my speakers to large or small. I'm using Def Tech all around:

Power Monitor 700's in front (which have built in powered subs)
C/L/R 2002 Center
UIW RLS II for Wides
UIW BP/A's for Surrounds

All of these can go down to at least 28 hz. Should I set them as Large?

Do you have a separate sub? If so, small. If not, large. Pretty simple really.
post #4069 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJF View Post

I'm not sure if I should set my speakers to large or small. I'm using Def Tech all around:

Power Monitor 700's in front (which have built in powered subs)
C/L/R 2002 Center
UIW RLS II for Wides
UIW BP/A's for Surrounds

All of these can go down to at least 28 hz. Should I set them as Large?

Your call given the built in sub for the fronts. You may want to try setting the others to SMALL and seeing whether you prefer that configuration any better. Not to mention that the powered subs will take the load off the AVR as well when the other speakers are set to SMALL.
post #4070 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkozlow3 View Post

Do you have a separate sub? If so, small. If not, large. Pretty simple really.

The subs are built into the Front speakers and are self powered . They are connected to the SW output . I guess they should be considered as separate subs. The rest of the speaker, from the sub up, is driven by the Denon .
post #4071 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Your call given the built in sub for the fronts. You may want to try setting the others to SMALL and seeing whether you prefer that configuration any better.

Okay I'll play around with it I was just afraid I might damage the speakers if I set them to large.

Dumb question: do the Wide speakers only output sound on certain material ? IOW's, if the material is DD 5.1, does it just use the 5.1 speakers, or do the wides also play?

BTW, I am finally retiring a 9 year old Kenwood 5900 (which I loved) for this 3311 especially because I wanted to what kind of difference the Audessey would make in my somewhat acoustically difficult room. The improvement is HUGE!
post #4072 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJF View Post

Dumb question: do the Wide speakers only output sound on certain material ? IOW's, if the material is DD 5.1, does it just use the 5.1 speakers, or do the wides also play?

Wides only make sound if you turn on DSX; ther is no content which has the wide channels encoded, it is purely a "post" processing thing.
post #4073 of 10211
The wides should be active for all audio with DSX enabled and should be positioned as noted here.
post #4074 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob539 View Post

OK here is what my 3311 is saying when I play netflix:
If the movie is in Dolby Digital it works but when in stereo I have no sound. The 2 speaker lights go on and I can see it engaging in stereo but still no sound. When I am not on a movie the default position is stereo. It is the same with Hulu DD plays while stereo does not. My other receiver that works is a 2809.
Thanks

PS I did try the other HDMI and no luck.

Any ideas here I would try. I am at a dead end.
Thanks
post #4075 of 10211
Make sure you didn't set the Front B speakers for Stereo mode (p. 81).
post #4076 of 10211
Thanks again guys! I still need to do some tweeking but I'm extremely happy with this AVR. I know I'm happy when I put on a DVD to test out something new I've bought but without realizing it, get drawn into watching the movie instead. Which is just what happened with this unit. :-)
post #4077 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtara View Post

I was curious enough to take a look at the file produced by "Save" in the web interface. In my case, it consists of 743,984 bytes of .... zeros.

I get the same thing on my AVR-991. V File Viewer shows all zero's; Notepad shows all blank. This is with Firefox.

It doesn't behave as the instructions say it should. I NEVER see "Saving" in the display. If it is off, it stays off (with no display) and then turns on after the Save with the display normal. If it is on, it stays on with no change in the display.

I have done the firmware update and am NOT using DHCP. I don't know if either would make any difference.

I'll investigate more later.
post #4078 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by jkozlow3 View Post

What are you viewing the DAT file with? If I open mine in TextEdit (Mac) or Notepad (Windows), mine is most definitely not all zeros. It's 743,984 bytes and mostly in an encrypted format, although a few characters are readable here and there (i.e. my Pandora ID & password).

I'm using hexdump on OSX and Linux, and V File Viewer on Windows.

So, it's good to know that some are getting the expected results. On the other hand, there's one report of getting the same thing I am getting.

How do I determine the version of firmware I am running? I don't see an obvious place where it is displayed. In any case, I seem to be running the latest firmware, as when I attempt an update it tells me I have "latest". (A version number would be more useful!) Oh, FWIW, when I attempt update from the web interface, it says it can't contact the server. Doesn't have that problem with the remote/onscreen.

I hope it isn't the case that a large number of owners THINK they are backing-up their settings, but are just producing files full of zeros. You wouldn't know there is a problem until you try to restore the backup. I haven't been brave enough yet to test and see what happens if you attempt that.

Since the problem affects only some owners, it would seem to be either version-related or some configuration-sensitive bug.

Oh, I also noticed the behavioral differences. But I discounted that as more bad documentation.
post #4079 of 10211
My save file is all-zeros too (I used od -x to examine it on my mac). This could explain why I couldn't restore! Of course now I have no MAC address shown in the GUI, so I think my unit is heading to NJ in January for a new network card.
post #4080 of 10211
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtara View Post

How do I determine the version of firmware I am running?

Read this post.
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