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The **Official** Denon 3311CI/ 991 Owner's Thread NO PRICE TALK - Page 259

post #7741 of 10210
6/3/11 at 8:34am
It's roughly the same (actually a little bit less) than the authorized retailers online. Not that I don't appreciate them for how many hundreds if not $1000 dollars I saved on my good old Pioneer 5070.

Thanks for the help. Sounds like I'll go with the 3311 with the knowledge that if I split off a 5.1 and add outdoor TV I probably need to use Apple TV to separate the zones fully. For now it's only my wife and infant daughter so we'll likely only be in one place at a time and not even using the receiver for indoors right now.
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post #7742 of 10210
6/3/11 at 10:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by spager View Post

Try these settings;

Manual Setup/HDMI Setup

HDMI Audio Out - AMP
HDMI Control - On
Standby Source - Last
Power Off Control - All

To Spager and Jdsmoothie, thank you very much. Initial test makes it seems like your recommendations have worked. Thank you!
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post #7743 of 10210
6/3/11 at 2:11pm
You can get 3311's for $780 at MHT, plus a $50 gift card through tomorrow. Pretty good deal, or a 3312 for $1100.
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post #7744 of 10210
6/3/11 at 4:32pm
Hi,

Just want to document that my 3311 was taken in and the HDMI PCB/PWB was replaced after a year of daily use. After the three year warranty is up I'm going to have to look for a replacement network component.

*shrugs shoulder*
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post #7745 of 10210
6/3/11 at 5:14pm
Question,
How high should I place the front presence speakers and should I put them looking forward or slightly down to the MLP?. Should they be right above the main speakers or more out?. I have a pair of polk M30's and I was thinking of putting them on use and the only place is there.
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post #7746 of 10210
6/3/11 at 6:09pm
^^
The front height speakers should be above the front mains as close to the ceiling as possible and pointed towards the main listening position.
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post #7747 of 10210
6/3/11 at 6:50pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
The front height speakers should be above the front mains as close to the ceiling as possible and pointed towards the main listening position.

Thank you jdsmoothie, I'll hung them tomorrow.
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post #7748 of 10210
6/3/11 at 7:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by D0T-C0M View Post

My AVR 3311 shut down again for the second time listening to mp3's at a level of -4db. I was also running it in simulated surround mode and all speakers are set to "large". The last time it shut down I was asked to check my speaker wires. I ordered banana plugs because I had previously wired them directly. I installed them yesterday and today I did a heat run at -4db with the occasional playing at 0db. I did not get through a complete metal song and it shut down. I immediately pulled out my multimeter and measured each speaker impedance. All my speakers measured within the 8 ohm spec but the Polk R30 speakers I had been using for my wides measured 4 ohms. These speakers are spec'd at 8 ohms so I am a bit confused. I disconnected them from my avr and I am trying out another heat run to see if the AVR will shutdown again. Any idea why my wides might be measuring at 4 ohms?


Edit: With the wides removed it again shut down at almost the same spot. Its flashing at 2 sec intervals which means high heat but the unit is in the complete open in my basement that is at normal room temperature. Do I have to send this unit back?

Edit2: I just tried setting all my speakers to "small" except the front L&R and it again shutdown after playing 5 minutes of a mp3 at -4db

Well, to be pedantic, you probably measured your speakers' DC resistance, and not their impedance. A typical multimeter will not measure impedance.

Here is a Wiki article that explains speaker impedance.

At a guess, if you asked Polk your question, they would probably tell you that their speakers' impedance graph (see Wiki for an example) is such that your speakers should be considered 8 ohm and not 4 ohm. Especially since Polk probably doesn't spec their speakers to function at DC. According to Wiki (yes I know that's not dictum) "the minimum value in the impedance vs. frequency relationship, which can sometimes be slightly higher than the DC resistance of the voice coil, i.e., as measured by an ohmmeter". So if you're reading 3.5, the "minimum impedance" is probably much less than the 8 that Polk specifies. Because, IMO, 8 is not just "slightly higher" than 3.5.

Perhaps Polk is really specifying a "nominal impedance", which, once again according to Wiki is 1.15 * the minimum. I'm certainly not an audio expert, but IMO Polk has "some 'splainin' to do".

Not that my comments offer you much help with your problem; I just wanted to make clear that using a multimeter didn't give you the complete picture.
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post #7749 of 10210
6/4/11 at 2:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by theoworld View Post

Hi,

Just want to document that my 3311 was taken in and the HDMI PCB/PWB was replaced after a year of daily use. After the three year warranty is up I'm going to have to look for a replacement network component.

*shrugs shoulder*

I had HDMI issues with my less-than-year-old 3311. I just swapped the whole unit for a new one, instead of dealing with repair.

As soon as I'm satisfied with the performance of my new Yamaha A3000, I'm putting that almost-new replacement 3311 up for sale. I don't feel like dealing with this again in a year. (Plus, the 3311 never sounded as good as the 3808 it replaced, which, when combined with the above HDMI issue, is why I decided not to go with a 3312.)

My 2805 and 3808 were rock-solid. The 3311, not so much. (The former two made in Japan, the latter in China. Any correlation? I don't know. But, I'm just sayin'.)
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post #7750 of 10210
6/4/11 at 2:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phantom Gremlin View Post

Well, to be pedantic, you probably measured your speakers' DC resistance, and not their impedance. A typical multimeter will not measure impedance.

True. But, his 3311 should not be shutting down from overheating after half a song, especially with the "4ohm" speakers removed.

If it is still within the return window, I would return it for a new one. If it still shuts down, then the problem is with the speakers or wiring. (Unlikely, though, as it is shutting down for heat, even though it does not appear to be hot.)

If it is not within the return window, I would get my hands on some other speakers, and test it with them. If that isn't possible, perhaps he should try replacing the speaker cable, and try it with that. Obviously, if it doesn't do it with the above, the problem is with the speakers or wiring.

If it continues to do it, or if he knows the speakers and wiring to be good from similar use with another AVR, and he is out of the return window, he should send it in for repair, or use a local authorized repair facility after thoroughly checking its reviews on Yelp and elsewhere. (Most local repair shops are ****, authorized or otherwise.)
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post #7751 of 10210
6/5/11 at 7:23am
I am getting a 3312 in a few weeks. I have a 7 year old Mitsubishi rptv 65 inch. It has a dvi hookup. Should I use dvi hookup with an adapter to hdmi?

Or just go with ckmponent hookup ?
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post #7752 of 10210
6/5/11 at 9:23am
this is the 3311 thread, not 3312. you should join us in the official xx12 model thread.

an older DVI display definitely has the potential to create weird HDMI issues. You should try it out, but be prepared to buy an HDMI>RGB converter: http://www.hdfury.com/
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post #7753 of 10210
6/5/11 at 1:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by batpig View Post

this is the 3311 thread, not 3312. you should join us in the official xx12 model thread.

an older DVI display definitely has the potential to create weird HDMI issues. You should try it out, but be prepared to buy an HDMI>RGB converter: http://www.hdfury.com/

For the record>>>>>I love my 3311, one of the best purchases I've made. I've had virtually no issues even considering the complexity of the newer receivers and will absolutely buy Denon in the future!! This coming from an Onkyo lover!!

It's sad to say, but most of the issues are user error and not the fault of Denon!
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post #7754 of 10210
6/6/11 at 7:52am
Quote:
Originally Posted by garypen
True. But, his 3311 should not be shutting down from overheating after half a song, especially with the "4ohm" speakers removed.

If it is still within the return window, I would return it for a new one. If it still shuts down, then the problem is with the speakers or wiring. (Unlikely, though, as it is shutting down for heat, even though it does not appear to be hot.)

If it is not within the return window, I would get my hands on some other speakers, and test it with them. If that isn't possible, perhaps he should try replacing the speaker cable, and try it with that. Obviously, if it doesn't do it with the above, the problem is with the speakers or wiring.

If it continues to do it, or if he knows the speakers and wiring to be good from similar use with another AVR, and he is out of the return window, he should send it in for repair, or use a local authorized repair facility after thoroughly checking its reviews on Yelp and elsewhere. (Most local repair shops are ****, authorized or otherwise.)
I too believed that this avr should be able to play continously no problem let alone at -4db. Maybe I should contact Denon
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post #7755 of 10210
6/6/11 at 8:07am
Two problems recently cropped up. For the record, I have AirPlay installed as well as the Denon iPad app. Both could have an influence on either of the problems.

1. When I have Sat/Cbl as the source, and HDMI audio to TV (have to have to listen via the TV, which lacks active HDMI), and I turn off the TV and source, the Denon starts playing the Tuner - even with Sat/Cbl on the screen on the rcvr! Sound now comes from the speakers, vice the TV. It as though the rcvr is in Tuner source, despite what the screen says. Inkybway is to turn the rcvr off.

2. For some reason, my main remote only partially controls the rcvr, while the aux remote works fine. Several things don't work - menu, source among them. Volume does work, so I know they are talking. Menu, etc, works fine in the aux remote, as well as via the face if the rcvr.

Any thoughts on these two items?
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post #7756 of 10210
6/6/11 at 8:11am
^^
1. Sounds like you need to reset the microprocessor (p. 116).

2. Are you pressing the AMP button on the main remote first before pressing the MENU button? If yes, see if the issue remains after doing the reset.
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post #7757 of 10210
6/6/11 at 8:23am
FYI shoppers: A 3311 open box discounted unit is available from AVS.
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post #7758 of 10210
6/6/11 at 1:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by benalexe View Post
I am getting a 3312 in a few weeks. I have a 7 year old Mitsubishi rptv 65 inch. It has a dvi hookup. Should I use dvi hookup with an adapter to hdmi?

Or just go with ckmponent hookup ?
FWIW I have a Panny CRT RPTV that is native 1080i and I have no problem with any of my HDMI sources using an HDMI-DVI cable between the 3311 and the TV, and all the GUI/menus display correctly. I'm not an expert, but it seems in most cases the 3311 passes the fact that the TV is DVI to the source and the source makes the conversion. However, I can also use video adjust and set the Denon to analog/HDMI conversion and change resolution and RGB scale to the TV, but I haven't found any advantage so far in doing that.

AFAICT, the main issue of going HDMI-DVI is that the video has to be RGB 4:4:4, not Y'CbCr, but I haven't had any problem with that.

I've read in some cases that there can be issues about what transform matrix coefficients are used in going from YCbCr to RGB, but I haven't seen that (probably an advantage of having the source do it, as the source should "know" what to use).

scott s.
.
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post #7759 of 10210
6/6/11 at 1:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundofMind View Post
FYI shoppers: A 3311 open box discounted unit is available from AVS.
"attention k-mart shoppers...."



when i was a kid (many moons ago), the blue light always caused great excitement...
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post #7760 of 10210
6/6/11 at 2:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie
^^
1. Sounds like you need to reset the microprocessor (p. 116).

2. Are you pressing the AMP button on the main remote first before pressing the MENU button? If yes, see if the issue remains after doing the reset.
Thanks! The AMP thing worked perfectly. I am REALLY loathe to reset. Already had to do that once when a software update locked up. Not really looking forward to getting the Audessy mike out again!
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post #7761 of 10210
6/6/11 at 2:56pm
^^
Lucky you ... as you don't have to!

Simply store the config settings (to include Audyssey) to a PC file using the Web Control "SAVE" feature (p. 59) and then "LOAD" them back after you do the micro reset.
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post #7762 of 10210
6/6/11 at 3:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post
"attention k-mart shoppers...."



when i was a kid (many moons ago), the blue light always caused great excitement...
FYI

Look for another reduction in price of the 3311 soon at MHT...maybe as soon as this weekend
MHT adjusts pricing on Sundays

Warren
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post #7763 of 10210
6/6/11 at 3:40pm
Is it possible to have my 3311ci remote work my 3800bdci BluRay player?
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post #7764 of 10210
6/6/11 at 3:59pm
^^
If it's one of the prestored devices in the remote ... yes. Denon is the default brand for both BD and DVD.
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post #7765 of 10210
6/6/11 at 4:12pm
I'm currently using the Dock S-Video input for my BluRay player because I don't yet have an HDTV. That's why it wasn't working for me. But I set the 3311 to BD it works the 3800. Excellent, that's good to know.
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post #7766 of 10210
6/6/11 at 7:08pm
Just got this receiver and having a heck of a time setting up a second Zone. I have owned many receivers in my time but this is my first attempt at setting up zones so excuse my stupidity if this is something obvious.

Where I'm at:
I have my main zone wired up as 5.1 and all works great. I have just one speaker hooked up to Surr.back/amp assign. In the receiver menu I switched the amp assign to "Zone 2". I have zone 2 turned on and the input is on the same as the main zone. The main zone works fine. No sound from Zone 2. Any ideas?
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post #7767 of 10210
6/6/11 at 7:16pm
^^
Zone 2 can only pass either "analog" or PCM 2.0 digital from optical/coax so if you're using HDMI from your main zone source, you'll also need to connect either an RCA analog cable or optical/coax cable as well. Also, if you only plan on using one speaker for Zone 2, you need to change the AMP ASSIGN setting from Zone 2 to "Zone 2/3 - Mono" and connect the speaker to the Surr Back/Amp Assign (L) terminals.
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post #7768 of 10210
6/6/11 at 7:31pm
Thanks. HDMI was the problem. Works fine from another source.

So is there any way I can pass HDMI to a different zone?
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post #7769 of 10210
6/7/11 at 12:53am
^^
Is your Zone 2 speaker a 2CH speaker or mono? If 2CH, you could change the AMP ASSIGN setting to "Front B" which will then pass the same audio at the same volume as is selected in the main zone (ie. no independent source/volume as you would have with a true Zone 2 setup). If the speaker is only mono though, then the audio will sound strange as you'll only get a single channel of stereo audio.
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post #7770 of 10210
6/7/11 at 4:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phantom Gremlin View Post

Well, to be pedantic, you probably measured your speakers' DC resistance, and not their impedance. A typical multimeter will not measure impedance.

Here is a Wiki article that explains speaker impedance.

At a guess, if you asked Polk your question, they would probably tell you that their speakers' impedance graph (see Wiki for an example) is such that your speakers should be considered 8 ohm and not 4 ohm. Especially since Polk probably doesn't spec their speakers to function at DC. According to Wiki (yes I know that's not dictum) "the minimum value in the impedance vs. frequency relationship, which can sometimes be slightly higher than the DC resistance of the voice coil, i.e., as measured by an ohmmeter". So if you're reading 3.5, the "minimum impedance" is probably much less than the 8 that Polk specifies. Because, IMO, 8 is not just "slightly higher" than 3.5.

Perhaps Polk is really specifying a "nominal impedance", which, once again according to Wiki is 1.15 * the minimum. I'm certainly not an audio expert, but IMO Polk has "some 'splainin' to do".

Not that my comments offer you much help with your problem; I just wanted to make clear that using a multimeter didn't give you the complete picture.


I have Polk RTi-A9s fronts and the DC resistance is roughly 8 ohm +/-0.2ohms

I would think the Polk R30s should have been very close to the spec of 8 ohms. Regardless of the discrepancy I still go into protection mode with the R30s disconnected.
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