AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house? - Page 33

post #961 of 1244
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stockmonkey2000 View Post

Nice its actually starting to look like something now. Any idea what kind of power it will take to effectively drive this thing?

For the driver or the motor? I don't think it will take much either way, but I will have a bit of overkill on hand if necessary. The tough part is the higher freqs since mass is working against you. I think this driver will handle it though. The motor will likely see less than 200 watts, but I'll likely get a 3/4 HP motor or such.
post #962 of 1244
This is starting to get VERY interesting!
post #963 of 1244
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

For the driver or the motor? I don't think it will take much either way, but I will have a bit of overkill on hand if necessary. The tough part is the higher freqs since mass is working against you. I think this driver will handle it though. The motor will likely see less than 200 watts, but I'll likely get a 3/4 HP motor or such.


3/4HP ?? That sounds really small My little wimpy helis have around 8.
post #964 of 1244
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by HFGuy View Post

3/4HP ?? That sounds really small My little wimpy helis have around 8.

Yeah, the Thigpen rotary is only running at 750 RPM or so....and the blades look to be about 4"x4". This thing is more like a box fan than a heli in power needs.
post #965 of 1244
What is the pitch range of those blades ?
post #966 of 1244
Thread Starter 
I should be able to go 45 degrees each direction.
post #967 of 1244
Don't know if this still applies but the blades stall before 45 degrees, you will prolly have to limit the pitch so they don't stall.
post #968 of 1244
Thread Starter 
I think the angle of attack should change with air flow. I have design/built/flown pitcherons (gliders with pivoting wings) and they do not stall with the blades at 45 degrees to each other. Also, the blades are like more like a ducted fan than a heli. Thigpen's rotary blades have about this much rotation.

I am able to change the pitching rotation through use of EQ and if I am very wrong I can make new parts. I don't intend to get it perfect on this first one, but it would be nice.
post #969 of 1244
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

I think the angle of attack should change with air flow. I have design/built/flown pitcherons (gliders with pivoting wings) and they do not stall with the blades at 45 degrees to each other. Also, the blades are like more like a ducted fan than a heli. Thigpen's rotary blades have about this much rotation.

I am able to change the pitching rotation through use of EQ and if I am very wrong I can make new parts. I don't intend to get it perfect on this first one, but it would be nice.

Ah, you are measuring differential pitch not absolute pitch
post #970 of 1244
Thread Starter 
After I typed that, I realized that the wings are close to 90 degrees to each other....I don't know the exact angle as the plane isn't set up right now. Usually, a wing will stall at about 12 or so degrees of angle of attack, but the angle of attack is relative to the air flow. A total of 90 degrees of movement for the rotary's blades is not intuitive, but when air is flowing through the aperture, you need to increase the fan blades pitch.
post #971 of 1244
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

After I typed that, I realized that the wings are close to 90 degrees to each other....I don't know the exact angle as the plane isn't set up right now. Usually, a wing will stall at about 12 or so degrees of angle of attack, but the angle of attack is relative to the air flow. A total of 90 degrees of movement for the rotary's blades is not intuitive, but when air is flowing through the aperture, you need to increase the fan blades pitch.


The relative airflow is what is important in airplane aerodynamics for sure. There is a "critical angle" for each "lifting surface" at some point. Now the thing is that unlike an airplane that stops flying when it stalls, your rotary won't stop flying though if the blade stalls. Now if you start talking about boundary layers, wingtip vorticies, stall fences, slats, vortex generators and winglets I'm all in!

Now I know the pitch changes, but does the fan speed also change as well?

Yes this is becoming very interesting indeed.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #972 of 1244
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

The relative airflow is what is important in airplane aerodynamics for sure. There is a "critical angle" for each "lifting surface" at some point. Now the thing is that unlike an airplane that stops flying when it stalls, your rotary won't stop flying though if the blade stalls. Now if you start talking about boundary layers, wingtip vorticies, stall fences, slats, vortex generators and winglets I'm all in!

Now I know the pitch changes, but does the fan speed also change as well?

Yes this is becoming very interesting indeed.

Regards,

RTROSE

No need to mention all those things and get everyone confused. I like to keep it simple and empirically test my ideas.

The fan speed does not change....at least you don't want it to change. Airflow and volume is related to pitch of the blade....if you want 10 hz louder than 20 hz, you need it to pitch more during the cycle. Realize that you need to move twice as much air anyway when you halve the pitch.

Now, if you want to adjust the "main" volume you can change the fan speed. Also, when the blades are pitching, the fan will probably slow down a little bit, but hopefully not a significant amount.

It starts getting pretty complicated and you just can't predict what will happen. I find if you build it, the answers will come faster than if you sit on your behind and think about it TOO MUCH. Some thought is good....more is better when the effort or cost is very high.

Basically, it all depends!
post #973 of 1244
Oh, I'm not trying to confuse anyone, especially myself. I was actually trying to be humorous in throwing in some aviation aerodynamics as this thread has touched on the "things flyable" once in a while.

I am guilty of over thinking many a thing or three and you are correct. Sometimes it just boils down to building the thing and working it out from there.

Still as stated before very interesting indeed.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #974 of 1244
Thread Starter 
Ok, I see now... If you started bringing up Reynolds numbers, I was going to start salivating. Heh heh

I must say I love designing stuff though. I wish I could have a team of builders to boss around and make me stuff. Also, I get distracted with other cool projects.
post #975 of 1244
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Ok, I see now... If you started bringing up Reynolds numbers, I was going to start salivating. Heh heh

I must say I love designing stuff though. I wish I could have a team of builders to boss around and make me stuff. Also, I get distracted with other cool projects.

You mean like marble machines?

Regards,

RTROSE
post #976 of 1244
Thread Starter 
Guilty! ...although I just spent time thinking about a marble machine and not building it. There are many others (and just as "weird") that you do not know of.

[A rotary sub sounds pretty weird to a lay person.]

I wanted to get metal today, but instead spent a LOT of time getting my little one warmed up enough to that scary red monster with the long gray beard to take a picture.
post #977 of 1244
Thread Starter 
I picked up the steel today. I'll try to do some cutting and welding in the next couple of days.
post #978 of 1244
Thread Starter 
I finally had some time to do a few minutes of work. I machined one of the rotary's supports. No pics because it really isn't that impressive. I should be able to do a bit this weekend.

I also received the top and two side seals for the door from Ted. They look pretty beefy. I have to trim them to size once I get the auto seal for the bottom of the door.

Also a few of us in the Albany area are meeting up Monday night. I know we are going to eat and then see MI. Ben or I will show off our work so far at one of our theaters before that if we can figure out scheduling and such.
post #979 of 1244
Thread Starter 
I have a few other things to do so this is only tack welded together. Imagine the fan blades and driver between the two supports and the motor coupled to the shaft on the right.

post #980 of 1244
Man,

That looks pretty stout! I have always wanted to try my hand at welding but have not had the opportunity. When I was around a lot of welding processes I was in the aerospace industry (17 years ago) working with Non-destructive testing of jet engine sub-assemblies. Not the place or the time to "give it a shot" or to "try my hand" at the welding thing.

Very interesting watching this come together.

Regards,

RTROSE
post #981 of 1244
Thread Starter 
Yeah, it is overbuilt, but that is way better than underbuilt. At least I won't have to rebuild it for strength/stiffness reasons. After seeing the video below I figured it could vibrate a decent amount. After re-watching it just now, my implementation makes the Thigpen look pretty wimpy! Hopefully mine will work.



As you may have notice, I am supporting the fan on both sides and not using the motor spindle. I think this is a better approach structurally, although not as clean aerodynamically....well except the Thigpen motor support is wider. I think the Thigpen is 17" diameter whereas mine can be 33"....I'm limited by how high a frequency I want to get to because of the mass of the blades/linkage.

RT: welding is actually pretty easy with this wire fed welder I have. Sure, a little practice is necessary to get the right speed, but not difficult at all. I can imagine they don't let beginners near any aerospace welding!
post #982 of 1244
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Yeah, it is overbuilt, but that is way better than underbuilt. At least I won't have to rebuild it for strength/stiffness reasons. After seeing the video below I figured it could vibrate a decent amount. After re-watching it just now, my implementation makes the Thigpen look pretty wimpy! Hopefully mine will work.



As you may have notice, I am supporting the fan on both sides and not using the motor spindle. I think this is a better approach structurally, although not as clean aerodynamically....well except the Thigpen motor support is wider. I think the Thigpen is 17" diameter whereas mine can be 33"....I'm limited by how high a frequency I want to get to because of the mass of the blades/linkage.

RT: welding is actually pretty easy with this wire fed welder I have. Sure, a little practice is necessary to get the right speed, but not difficult at all. I can imagine they don't let beginners near any aerospace welding!

I have zero idea,what or why a "rotary sub"is?? what am I even looking at please??
post #983 of 1244
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

RT: welding is actually pretty easy with this wire fed welder I have. Sure, a little practice is necessary to get the right speed, but not difficult at all. I can imagine they don't let beginners near any aerospace welding!

Is it from Lincoln Electric? If so, thanks for supporting our N. OH economy
post #984 of 1244
Thread Starter 
Yes, I have a Lincoln 110v wirefeed welder. I bought it maybe 7 years ago and used it for the CNC router I made. It worked very well!
post #985 of 1244
Thread Starter 
Mikieson: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Rotary+subwoofer

The rotary sub moves a lot more air than a regular sub and allows a lot more output at low frequencies down to 1 hz. They usually cost $25k installed.
post #986 of 1244
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreasMergner View Post

Mikieson: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Rotary+subwoofer

The rotary sub moves a lot more air than a regular sub and allows a lot more output at low frequencies down to 1 hz. They usually cost $25k installed.

I know im no wizard when it comes to this stuff..dont claim to be. BUT cant we as humans only hear from like 20mhz to 20khz? Sure we can feel some vibrations but would we even feel that at that low frequency? AND would it be worth the 20+k to have that bought and installed as you put it?

I know these forums are sometimes for the crazy minded over the top, but I would honestly have to see and hear it.AND even if it peeled my clothes off I would never in 10 life times pay 20+k for any a/v equipment..lol

OH and thanks for the smartars link..lol...it was funny..
post #987 of 1244
Thread Starter 
Ha ha. You're welcome for the link, but you deserved it!

There is a lot of debate about <20hz. Here is my take on it from what I have read and it is FREE OPINIONATED ADVICE. It is worth every penny! Yes, you can hear <20hz. If you have sufficient volume, you'll hear 15hz and probably even 10hz. The thing is that very few systems will play loud enough to play 10hz. Not only do you need more decibels to hear low frequencies, it become exponentially more difficult to play at the same decibels as higher frequencies.

At some frequency, I agree that you switch from hearing to feeling. Mind you that you can feel 50hz quite well and it gives you that chest "thump". The ULF stuff still adds something to the experience. From what I have read about other's experience of the Thigpen rotary sub is that they certainly do know when it is turned on and off.

I like to tell people that ULF gives a sense of dread. It does not exist in nature unless something really bad is about to happen like an earthquake or volcanic eruption. Actually, that is not true...it occurs it a lot of stuff from slamming a door to any instantaneous sound like the plucking of a string.

Now, whether it is worth $25k....that depends on how much money you have and your priorities....like a LOT of what is on these forums. A $1000 projector??? That is CRAZY. I just bought a perfectly good 45" TV at Walmart for $300. These people will buy a $30K car to commute in. I don't think the rotary sub is worth $25K and that is why I'm building one. If I didn't want to build something so crazy, I'd put in $1000 of IB subs or $5k of sealed subs and call it a day and have an amazing system.

....but the rotary sub is the "ultimate" and so I would like to try it. I think it will only cost me around $500 with the driver that Penngray donated to the project.
post #988 of 1244
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikieson View Post

I know im no wizard when it comes to this stuff..dont claim to be. BUT cant we as humans only hear from like 20mhz to 20khz? Sure we can feel some vibrations but would we even feel that at that low frequency? AND would it be worth the 20+k to have that bought and installed as you put it?

I know these forums are sometimes for the crazy minded over the top, but I would honestly have to see and hear it.AND even if it peeled my clothes off I would never in 10 life times pay 20+k for any a/v equipment..lol

OH and thanks for the smartars link..lol...it was funny..

Ya know that is what makes this forum and this world so great. While you might not pay 20k for audio equipment, you might pay several hundred dollars or several thousand dollars for a golf club, fishing pole, tennis racket, bottle of spirits or a work of art that someone else would not give you .02 for it. It is all about where you want to put your money.

I certainly expect to see people here go "over the top" with regards to HT, just as I would expect to see people go over the top with custom autos in a forum dedicated to that hobby/pursuit.

It all comes down to priorities and choices. Now for one whether AM spends 25k or 25 dollars on his rotary as long as he documents and posts photos of it I don't care one whit what it costs.


Oh and you gotta love LMGTFY, comes in handy sometimes.

Regards,

RTROSE

With regards to the video of the rotary I have watched it several times (prior to you posting the vid even) and noticed it vibrated/rocked at high excursion angles, with your design do you foresee a more ridged setup? Just by looking at your design it looks like it would better combat or resist that type of movement.
post #989 of 1244
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTROSE View Post

With regards to the video of the rotary I have watched it several times (prior to you posting the vid even) and noticed it vibrated/rocked at high excursion angles, with your design do you foresee a more ridged setup? Just by looking at your design it looks like it would better combat or resist that type of movement.

Any time you have a large weight with 5 wings rotating and pitching multiple times a second being hung off a motor shaft -- expect some vibration. Supporting both ends of the shaft is much more rigid and (hopefully) requires much less precision in terms of aligning and balancing the entire unit. I don't know exactly what linkage is in Thigpen's rotary, but it may be more rigid than mine. Hopefully that won't be an issue as I have used less robust linkages in much larger flying surface moving much faster. They were not pivoting at 20hz, however.
post #990 of 1244
Thread Starter 
Keep it down out there. You are getting TOO chatty. Ha ha

Looks like my auto bottom door seal will be here today. I've been closing my door to the theater and my wife "yells" down at me from the floor up to chat with me. I yell back, but she doesn't hear me. When I get the door sealed I don't think I will be able to hear her at all.

What do people do to communicate from their theaters? I guess my wife could always call me on the cell phone, but is there a better way? Just curious.

I will do some work on the rotary this afternoon. I've been busy making seafood paella and cookies since my parts arrived yesterday.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
AVS › AVS Forum › Home Entertainment & Theater Builder › Dedicated Theater Design & Construction › Build log: DIY rotary sub for contemporary HT in 100 year old house?