"Official" Yamaha RX-V667/RX-V767 Thread - Page 74

I'm having an issue with my 667. It's plugged into my PC via my video card's HDMI output, and everything works great. I can easily switch between DVI monitor + onboard audio and HDMI through the Yamaha.

My problem is that while I'm at my desktop, every couple of minutes Windows makes the sound of unplugging then replugging in a device, like if you pull out your mouse and then plug it back in. Honestly it's super annoying. I have another PC with a similar ATI HDMI output and the same thing happens there, so the receiver is definitely the problem.

Anyone familiar with this issue?

It depends on the cable company as well as which cable box and specific model you have. Most techies use the port to attach an external hard drive to expand the storage capacity of their DVR. But ... my advice... forget about the USB on your cable box... save that for "after" you get your system up and running. Right now you have bigger fish to fry.


That would be great if it would work, but don't count on it. Due to IP address issues etc, you will probably find you will need to run a CAT5 from your cable company modem to a router and then from the router run separate feeds out to your computer equipment and V867. In my case, (in addition to my V867), my Blu-Ray and Roku box also have internet ports. I ended up running a single CAT5 from my router over to the area of my entertainment center. At my entertainment center I plugged the CAT5 into a NETGEAR GS105NA 5 Port Switch so I could split out feeds to the V867, Blu-Ray and Roku.


... based on all the other member responses to this question you should pretty much assume it won't work in your case wither. I can tell you I tried it myself and had no luck. (Time Warner Cable)


I assumed the same thing as well. Hooked my system up via optical. Then again I didn't have much choice. While my TV has HDMI and optical ports... it lacks a RCA coax fittings for audio out. While I've read a few negative comments about using optical cables I personally haven't experienced any problems.


When you get to configuring the network its actually pretty simple from the V867 side of the equation (basically point and click inside the 867 setup menu. My problem was getting my computers set up to talk to the 867. I found these instructions were a big help.


I owned the 667 for one month and can attest to the aggravation comment. I about pulled my hair out with all the cabling and all the permutations and combinations with the various settings. Anyway, I returned it and got a 867 when the price of the 867 dropped to what I paid for the 667. Fact: For the most part, the 867 isn't any more complicated. After owning both units, I think the statement about the 667 being more receiver than you need is due to all the settings and control functions that most people won't ever use. I am not a AV techie by any means and I can honestly say I had my 667 hooked up and running with all my peripherals in about 45 minutes (all HDMI). It was only when I got into fine tuning and playing with all the settings it that I began to question why I didn't just buy a home theater in a box.

Honestly... the 667 and 867 are then same from a complexity standpoint. In the area of firmware updates the 867 is actually easier. The only thing the 867 adds in terms of "added complexity" would be setting up the network and DNLA. The good news is setting up the network is not a necessity when it comes to the initial stages of cabling up all the equipment and getting your HT system up and running. Its just icing on the cake.

As to aggravating... I've been fighting with my system for 3 days trying to get everything to play with my Harmony remote. (i.e., the correct equipment power up sequence, determining the proper number of milliseconds for the command delays, the fact that the VX67 series "remembers" and always powers up with last input setting (e.g. HDMI2 etc.)

Hmmm... I cranked my volume all the way up on my PC system and proceeded to unplug and replug my mouse, keyboard, printer etc. I heard no sounds whatsoever so I'm not sure what you are describing. That said, all I can think of is the 667 must be doing some sort of handshake (polling) of the HDMI connection to make sure its still active. Just a thought... but something you can try... go into the 667 on screen setup menu and turn HDMI control to OFF and see if the problem goes away. If you already have it turned off... try turning it ON and see what happens.

Just picked up all new gear for the new house. 50c7000, 667, and Energy RC-Micro's for a small room in the basement, so I've been playing with it all and so far, been really impressed with the 667. I do have two questions/problems I'm hoping that the forums can provide me with some insight, and they both relate to my Sony Bluray player (bdp-n460).

First, I can only receive PCM (@48kHz) by the AVR if I use HDMI with the player (No Dolby Digital or DTS so far as I can tell, I can't select either... all analog. If I run audio through optically to the AVR, no problem). I don't have that problem with my DVR or 360, and all the settings in the player look correct. I've read sometimes there are some compatibility issues, so maybe that's the case. It still sounds very good, but it's just a little frustrating not knowing what's going on.

Secondly, I'm having a problem with audio delay with the BP as well. There is a definite delay, maybe .25 seconds (lip sync issues) that I can't seem to fix. Again, I don't have that problem with any other device.

I've had the player for awhile now and didn't have these problems before upgrading from my old HK235 to the 667, but before I was running HDMI direct to the TV. One of the major reasons I went with the 667 is that it is supposed to be excellent with all audio and video signals. Any suggestions?

Thanks, that's a good idea, I'll try that.

I grabbed the sound files. I hear these two in quick succession:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8133979/hardware-remove.wav
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8133979/hardware-insert.wav

I just realized I could probably just remove those. It's not ideal but better than hearing them every couple minutes.

I'm not familiar with your BD player, but, in general, ensure your player is configured to pass high-end audio (bitstream on, secondary audio off). To check: Play back a blu-ray that has an HD soundtrack. Press "straight" on your remote. Press the "info" button on your remote several times to cycle through the various information on your AVR's front panel.

Thanks for the advice. I'll try it out this evening and let you know. I'm pretty sure, however, that all those settings are correct. I combed over that a couple of times in my BD menu. We'll see what happens...

Hi ptree18, suggest checking BD player settings. Audio set to output through "HDMI", set to "Auto" and BD audio set to "Direct".

Note sometimes a Blu Ray previews are PCM until the movie starts. And disc may be defaulted to the standard DD/DTS track, so you might have to manually select the TrueHD/DTSHD soundtrack. Normally this will be found under Audio or Language Setting.

why coax over optical?

That did it! I feel like such an amateur. Oh wait... I am. Sounds outstanding now, though. I had tried resetting the BD player to it's default settings when all else failed, and it just so happens that the audio output was set to "mix" instead of "direct". I missed it. What doesn't make sense to me is how when I had it hooked up with an optical cable everything worked just dandy, but when I had it running HDMI it was PCM. I guess that's one of the things that makes me a noob Thanks again for the help!

Not coax. HDMI. Fewer wires, easier setup.

Can this receiver (RX-V667, I already own it) handle 4ohms on anything else but the fronts? I am only asking because I plan on picking up a Swan T900 set by the end of this year and the front and center are rated at 120w 4ohms, while rears are 8 ohms. Could this yamaha receiver handle it? Or do I have to buy a upa-5, I'd prefer not to, but I'd also prefer not to blow out my speakers.

I can still return this receiver if I should take another route. Thanks.

I don't think coax is over optical. I work in a room with miles of fiber data cables. I like coax for audio (when needed) since it is less likely to be damaged by physical abuse and does not have a polarity issue. Some optical connectors are D shaped and some are O shaped. That might be an issue. Optical has no rf/emi problems and is lighter.

Given the option, I use coax for audio. In a controlled environment there is no difference. But I could be wrong. My TV will send 5.1 out its optical connector. It doesn't have a coax output.

Apologies if this has been covered before, I've spent hours searching for a solution with no luck.

I have my RX667 hooked up to my HTPC and then out to my Plasma TV.
I'm using an ATI HD5450 graphics card and send the audio over HDMI to the receiver. This works great, but if I am just listening to music and I switch of the TV, my sound stops working and I get the "no speakers or headphones are plugged in" message on the little speaker icon.
I'm not sure if it's a problem with the receiver or the graphics card driver, but I'm begining to think it's how Windows 7 treats the HDMI ports, as a few months back I used to have Win XP on the computer with same graphics card and the audio worked fine if the TV was switched off.
I've tried turning HDMI Control on the RX667 to OFF, but it makes no difference.
I'm almost tempted to downgrade back to XP, but it doesn't support GPU hardware acceleration of HD content.

Anyone got any ideas ?

thanks

update:

i get home from work, take the wireless router and modem downstairs. put a splitter on the incoming comcast cable, one to cable box, one to modem, modem connected to router, then hardwire from router to 867. boom! playing music from my wireless laptop and internet radio.

didnt even need to read the manual. i love it. i promise though i will read the manual. promise.

tomorrow im going to figure out how to make dlna work.

Even a broken clock is right twice a day. [joke, really]

DLNA (look it up) means you have server (computer) that the client (V867) can access for content. Content can be pictures, audio or video. The server needs to be running software (like Windows Media Center/Player) or equivalent service that lets the client access the content. There are several ambiguous messages you will get from the V867 when things are not working right. And it doesn't seem to support a screen saver.

When receiving IP radio, there is no buffering. You may want to select an inactive NET input before leaving IP radio since it will continue to stream content even after you have switched to a different input, slowing down your network. I reported the bug to Yamaha months ago.

My DLNA servers are my Netgear N750 router, Toshiba laptop (Win 7) and Dell desktop (XP). Everything should work unless you have changed defaults for file type or storage locations. With the 2.15 update the V867 now has album art ability. Nice touch.

Optical cable can be a little fragile, coax not so much. Audio quality will be the same with both. HDMI, from my 667 to my Sony NX sounds better.

Page 18 of your owners manual. No, only the front can be configured to 6 ohms but will handle 4 ohm speakers. I called Yamaha one time to confirm this. I use 4 ohm front speakers and have my 667 configured for 6
ohm.

I have a 120w Kenwood reciever that ran my 4 ohm speakers for years. I retired the reciever but i still have it and it was working great when i retired it.

DOH! Do I feel like a Dumbass. When I listened to your WAV files I smacked myself in the forehead. I've been building and selling desktop computers since before DOS days... (err... that means no HDD's and the OS was loaded via mag cards.)

In your first post when you said your computer "makes a sound" I didn't put two and two together. For others who may not have understood your initial post... I believe a more accurate way to describe your problem would be to say: "Ever since plugging your 667 into your computers PC video card HDMI output, your computer keeps playing the Windows" WAV files associated with Device Connect and Device Disconnect.


By "remove" hopefully you don't mean to delete the wav files. Until I could figure out what was causing the problem, I'd just go into your sound settings and select "None" for both the Device Connect and Device Disconnect activity.

That said... after giving it more thought I still say it's a HDMI issue, but to be even more specific, I'd say its related to CEC. The VX67 series includes a feature called HDMI CEC. The CEC allows HDMI devices to control each other when necessary, as well as allowing the user to operate multiple devices with a single remote control. I believe your 667 is attempting to communicate with your PC. It makes a connect attempt, only to be knocked off. Your PC is simply playing the Device Connect and Disconnect activity wav files to alert you. The Fix? Go into the On Screen menu and turn off CEC.

I use a Harmony 670. I used the set up wizard from the Harmony software and setting up the remote was a breeze.
I have a BRP, a TiVo, a FiOS DVR and a HDDVD player going into into HDMI's 1,2,3 and 4 on the 667 and HDMI OUT going to my Sony TV into ARC/HDMI 1. My Sony NX is pretty well calibrated so i have Video processing turned OFF in the 667.
I have the Harmony set to switch the HDMI input on the 667 in accordence with each activity. Using the Device button on the Harmony gives me control of each device as/if needed. The only pain in the ass was configuring buttons on the Harmony for each device for easier control than scrolling though the endless menu options but that too really didnt take much time. Just a lot of thought as to what the most needed options would be.
I now have what i consider to be the easiest of configurations with the least amount of wiring needed. Thats from the most complicated setup imaginable (my old system) with an octopuss wiring nightmare that took 2 hours to rig and had to be redone just to figure out the smallest of changes to the system. HDMI and Audio Return Channel technology is a wonderful thing, although the way my system is set up and using the Harmony the way it is im not using ARC. As for the networking of the 867 vs. the 667 outside of updates which i found easy on the 667. All that internet stuff becomes very redundant so i saved a few bucks on the 667 over the 867.

Hi Joe, I have the Harmony 880. I also use the Harmony software set up wizard. (I find the PC installed software version is far easier to navigate than the online web based wizard.) I have a BRP, a Roku, a FiOS DVR and CD player going into HDMI's 1,2,3 and 4 on my 867 and HDMI OUT going to my Samsung Plasma into ARC/HDMI 2. After I finished with the Break-In DVD I spent an hour or so with a Spears-Munsil calibration DVD fine tuning my Samsung plasma. NOTE: (The various calibration DVD's on the market are great if you don't have $400.00 to invest on a full "ISF" calibration. I also tried the DVE HD DVD but found the S&M Benchmark BD to be easier) Anyway, as a result, I also have video processing turned OFF in the receiver. (then again, as many as many professional reviewers have noted... the RX-VX67 series isn't noted for it video processing capability.

As to my Harmony remote, with my last receiver, a Denon (which was not HDMI compliant ) setup was pretty much a breeze. .. I selected my devices, renamed some of the activities, and I was done. However swapping out the Denon with the 867 turned into a struggle. For some reason the "delay" from initial turn on of the 867 until the 867 completed its internal HDMI switch activity, the IR commands to the TV (or vice versa) were stepping on each other. As it turned out I discovered the Samsung won't recognize the 867's HDMI ports unless the Samsung is "turned on first". I then discovered I had to add a 200 millisecond pause "before" issuing the HMDI input selection to the 867.

I "kind of" have everything working now... in that I can turn on and off all the assorted equipment for any activity, with the press of a single button on my Harmony but now I find I have to keep switching between devices. (i.e., switching to the AV Receiver to adjust the volume then having to switch back to the Cable Box to change channels or bring a DVR recording. With my old setup, somehow... once I hit the button to turn on all the equipment, I was able to control all aspects of my HT system using the various buttons on the remote. I never had to switch between devices. Unfortunately... I'm not sure if that's still possible (or even how I was able to accomplish that in the first place.)

How do u get the zone speakers to work? I am having a hard time getting them to work? I have 7.1 plus zone 2 on but nothing is coming out? ya my outside volume control was shot!!

I apologize if this has already been addressed (currently 74 pages on this thread). I have a recently purchased RX-V667. There is a problem with the analog inputs. Most anytime any of them is selected (including the tuner), the sound comes through as if I am listening to a skipping CD. The sound from HDMI inputs is flawless. I have BD player connected HDMI and analog (for zone 2), DirecTV HDMI and analog (zone 2), Logitech wireless streaming player connected analog, and Wii component video/analog audio. Again, even the tuner sounds like this. Anyone else experience this or have thoughts? Thanks.

Is there activity on the front panel during this stutter? I can't think of a way to cause your problem, or fix it. But I would remove all inputs and see if the problem stops on the internal tuner. Does it take long to start? Perhaps there is a grounding/power problem on one of the analog inputs. Pure guess.

Does the a700 not display dts hd or dolby true when played?

solved the problem with black screen and color blocks and distortion:

i was testing all kinds of combinations trying to isolate the source of the problem, couldnt figure anything out. finally decided i wouldnt be able to resolve the situation. removed the splitter and ran the comcast cable from the wall straight to the cable box, and luckily the picture was still getting distorted, which meant the splitting had nothing to do with it. more investigation found that one of the pins of the component cables was broke and sporadically making contact. this is do to the cables comcast gives you. they give you the 3 composite and two audio cables that are bound together, so the weight of all the wires pulls down on the pins. wiggling the wire solved the problem. nice. so i go to comcast and get new wires. while im there i ask if they have larger capacity dvr boxes. they do. nice. went back home, brought my old box back and got a new one. old box was 20gig i think, new box is 250gig according to the comcast rep. i also scored another new set of component/audio, and an hdmi cable (which i dont need as of yet), but if its free its for me, so i took it.

as of yet, i havent had any internet connection problems with the laptop and 867 both connected. as far as i can tell is that if i disconnect the laptop while the 867 is connected, the laptop wont reconnect, but im not going to mess around now and test, because it seems to be working fine.

pandora rocks btw.

thanks again for the help, i would be pleasantly surprised if i dont come across any more problems

I do not use the speakers to my Sony NX at all with the only exception if i leave the house and leave my dog at home. I will turn off my 667 and turn on the speakers to my Sony NX. My dog doesnt really complain but he does look at me funny when i come back home. The speakers on my Sony NX TV SUCK...anyway.
I turn them off inside the TV so the TV always looks for the external audio when its tunred on, even if not using the Harmony remote the TV will turn on the 667 with its internal speakers turned off and HDMI control ON. I never payed any attention to what comes on first. My Harmony is set to change HDMI sources in the 667 with each activity button and the 667 is always on..no millisecond issues at all. I use to have my system set up with everything running into the TV except the BRP then used ARC for audio with the 667 and ran into some lipsync issues from my FiOS DVR once in a while and some audio drop outs from both the FiOS DVR and my TiVo, resetting all components back through the 667 then out to the TV eliminated those problems.

I have an yamaha 667. my set up is a 6.1 system. I did the yamaha set up and am using the settings that was through the automatic calibration. A few questions,

1. It has my three rear speakers as large. They are in ceiling speakers, should I adjust the setting to small? I had read somewhere that the automatic settings seem to do this alot and it should be manually changed to small.

2. I have the extended surround from the options menu set to EX/ES. I originally had it on automatic but the yamaha customer service said EX/ES would be better for a 6.1 system...but he seemed to be just reading from the manual as we were talking.

3. when watching a 2010 movie (Predators) it did not seem as though i was getting much sound from the rear three speakers. If I went over to them I could hear some bot not all that much. Should I increase the level in the manual settings? I had it on movie sci fi setting and the sound decoder was on dolby dig ii movie I think.

Thanks for the help.