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"Official" Yamaha RX-V667/RX-V767 Thread - Page 2

post #31 of 3908
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkSmith View Post

It is my opinion that all channels driven tests prove nothing about real world power. Gene at audioholics wrote a good article at the link below.

http://www.audioholics.com/education...amplifier-test



Mark

I have read it, and I agree somewhat with it. But you were missing my point maybe? I am sayng that no amp power test really tells the full story. But driving two channels only, and calling a receiver a 100x7 watt receiver because it can output 100 watts / channel is misleading.

I don't know what the answer is, but ideally, I would want all of the following info, as it's better than nothing -

* Transformer VA rating
* All channels driven power from 20hz to 20khz into 8 ohms
* All channels driven power from 20hz to 20khz into 4 ohms
* Two channel power into 4 ohms, and 8 ohms
* If at all possible, power vs distortion graphs for each scenario

Will I still know all there is to know? Probably not. But I feel I would know a fair amount.

Failing all that, if I could have ONE number, I would want the transformers VA rating
post #32 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by action_jackson View Post

I was reading through the manual and it appears that you can have up to 9 speakers plus the sub connected at the same time. Am I reading this correctly, or am I missing something?

Connected, but not all in use. It's still a 7-ch amp.
post #33 of 3908
Bought this a few days ago and am having fun with it compared to my older 5.1 Sony

The most interesting features so far:
-Nice at 6" tall. My equipment rack only has 6.5" space at the top level. Most other manufacturers have settled at 6.75" height; so many receiver choices are ruled out for me

-on screen display is really nice

-I have HDMI->DVI to my older RPTV. The Yamaha has the ability to detect that I'm using DVI and not really HDMI (as shown in Info screen) and automatically corrects a Studio-level to PC-level colorspace issue
post #34 of 3908
Thread Starter 
Not much room for ventilation at 1/2 ".
post #35 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelJHuman View Post

Not much room for ventilation at 1/2 ".

My thoughts exactly, you need plenty of room above the receiver for ventilation. I like to have 4 to 6 inches in an open cabinet. I hope you don't have any doors on the front of that.

On a different subject, does anyone know what chip is being use for the video up-conversion?
post #36 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

Connected, but not all in use. It's still a 7-ch amp.

I see now, it selects presence or rear surround depending on what type of mode is selected, but you can leave the speakers connected and just switch as needed.

I wonder if an external amp could be used to allow a 9.1 set up? Probably not, but it would be cool.
post #37 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by action_jackson View Post

My thoughts exactly, you need plenty of room above the receiver for ventilation. I like to have 4 to 6 inches in an open cabinet. I hope you don't have any doors on the front of that.

On a different subject, does anyone know what chip is being use for the video up-conversion?


It is an open rack, the top shelf on the rack over the receiver is not a full shelf. It's just a partial shelf to hold/display dvds, so 90% of the top the receiver is still exposed to open air, and all the sides are exposed as well.

Appreciate the concern, but not a noob, I've been in this game for awhile. .
post #38 of 3908
Anyone know if I can route zone 2 through the pre-amp outs, rather than the additional power amp outs - I have a set of internally amped mini speakers I would like to use for zone 2 as they are nice and small, and work nicely for radio speech and informal stuff
post #39 of 3908
Thread Starter 
Check the back photos of the 667 on the Yam website. Look for zone 2 pre outs. I would expect Yamaha to provide that.
post #40 of 3908
i have the pioneer 1020 with a directv hr-21 dvr receiver running through the 1020 with hdmi to a mitsubishi 2009 73" 3d dlp. i am trying to set up the directv remote to turn off the directv receiver , 1020, and tv at the same time which i have been sucessful in doing. but i cannot get the 1020 to turn back on, the tv and directv receiver come back on but not the 1020.
the mitsi tv has the hdmi cec control along with the 1020 hdmi cec control. i have tried different combinations of cec control on and off for both the 1020 and tv but have not been able to get the 1020 to come back on with the directv remote when the directv receiver and tv come back on. am i doing something wrong or is the 1020 not capable of this. i am looking at the denon 1911 or the onkyo 608 or the yamaha 667 if the 1020 is not capable of this. is the yamaha 667 capable of this? thanks,pajer
post #41 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by pajer View Post

i have the pioneer 1020 with a directv hr-21 dvr receiver running through the 1020 with hdmi to a mitsubishi 2009 73" 3d dlp. i am trying to set up the directv remote to turn off the directv receiver , 1020, and tv at the same time which i have been sucessful in doing. but i cannot get the 1020 to turn back on, the tv and directv receiver come back on but not the 1020.
the mitsi tv has the hdmi cec control along with the 1020 hdmi cec control. i have tried different combinations of cec control on and off for both the 1020 and tv but have not been able to get the 1020 to come back on with the directv remote when the directv receiver and tv come back on. am i doing something wrong or is the 1020 not capable of this. i am looking at the denon 1911 or the onkyo 608 or the yamaha 667 if the 1020 is not capable of this. is the yamaha 667 capable of this? thanks,pajer

My 667 turns on when I power on my directv/samsung tv with just the push of the on button on the directv remote as you described.

I have everything ran HDMI 1.4 to the 667 and then the HDMI out to the arc input/output of the samsung. (FYI)
post #42 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmercer3 View Post

My 667 turns on when I power on my directv/samsung tv with just the push of the on button on the directv remote as you described.

I have everything ran HDMI 1.4 to the 667 and then the HDMI out to the arc input/output of the samsung. (FYI)

thanks for the info, i would be running from directv to 667 to mitsubishi 3d ready dlp so it looks like it should work for me as the mitsubishi also has cec control. just looking for something simple and easy for wifey. by the way how do you like the 667? pros & cons?
post #43 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by pajer View Post

thanks for the info, i would be running from directv to 667 to mitsubishi 3d ready dlp so it looks like it should work for me as the mitsubishi also has cec control. just looking for something simple and easy for wifey. by the way how do you like the 667? pros & cons?

had it for about 2 weeks i guess and really cant find anything bad to say about it.

Positive wise, love the sound (but thats more speakers than avr), no color banding issues with the signal pass (good processing chip i guess - not sure which one they use but other brands have had some reports of color banding), it was unbelievably easy to set up and figure out which settings sounds best for me. And as you probably have already figured out has WAY more options then any other sub 500 AVR. Especially like that it has amp pre-outs, along with a good self calibration from Yamaha (YPAO) that gets reviews comparable to audyssey. Closest thing I could find to a future proof AVR.

thought of one con: the denon i looked at had a usb port on the front and could control an ipod/iphone, the yamaha can but you need an ipod doc or be satisfied with the 3.5mm split to a/v connection (seriously inferior sound).. so yeah, theres something bad still seriously head and shoulders above the comp in my humble... humble opinion
post #44 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmercer3 View Post

had it for about 2 weeks i guess and really cant find anything bad to say about it.

Positive wise, love the sound (but thats more speakers than avr), no color banding issues with the signal pass (good processing chip i guess - not sure which one they use but other brands have had some reports of color banding), it was unbelievably easy to set up and figure out which settings sounds best for me. And as you probably have already figured out has WAY more options then any other sub 500 AVR. Especially like that it has amp pre-outs, along with a good self calibration from Yamaha (YPAO) that gets reviews comparable to audyssey. Closest thing I could find to a future proof AVR.

thought of one con: the denon i looked at had a usb port on the front and could control an ipod/iphone, the yamaha can but you need an ipod doc or be satisfied with the 3.5mm split to a/v connection (seriously inferior sound).. so yeah, theres something bad still seriously head and shoulders above the comp in my humble... humble opinion

well it looks like i have it narrowed down to the yamaha 667 and the onkyo 608 as i think those are the only two that will do what i want it to do with the directv remote and turn the avr back on. however i have read that the onkyo608 is having an issue of passing through the 3d from the directv 3d channels but rumor has it they may come out with a firmware fix. pajer
post #45 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmercer3 View Post

had it for about 2 weeks i guess and really cant find anything bad to say about it.

Positive wise, love the sound (but thats more speakers than avr), no color banding issues with the signal pass (good processing chip i guess - not sure which one they use but other brands have had some reports of color banding), it was unbelievably easy to set up and figure out which settings sounds best for me. And as you probably have already figured out has WAY more options then any other sub 500 AVR. Especially like that it has amp pre-outs, along with a good self calibration from Yamaha (YPAO) that gets reviews comparable to audyssey. Closest thing I could find to a future proof AVR.

thought of one con: the denon i looked at had a usb port on the front and could control an ipod/iphone, the yamaha can but you need an ipod doc or be satisfied with the 3.5mm split to a/v connection (seriously inferior sound).. so yeah, theres something bad still seriously head and shoulders above the comp in my humble... humble opinion

what tv are you using?
post #46 of 3908
Just got mine in today, I'm coming from an RX-V730 and I'm having to turn the volume much higher than I was with the old one. Before I set the volume around -30db but now -15db seems closest to what I'm used to. The 730 was rated at 70 watts per channel x6, and this one is rated at 90 x 7. Anyone have an explanation for this?
post #47 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by skooba View Post

what tv are you using?

samsung 58c8000
post #48 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by action_jackson View Post

Just got mine in today, I'm coming from an RX-V730 and I'm having to turn the volume much higher than I was with the old one...

It just means the two receivers were calibrated differently. It doesn't mean the new one has less power or won't play as loud when you turn it up.
post #49 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

It just means the two receivers were calibrated differently. It doesn't mean the new one has less power or won't play as loud when you turn it up.

I was a little worried because I rarely turned the other one past -20db or it was extremely loud. Just figure since they are both by Yamaha, they would be about the same.
post #50 of 3908
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by action_jackson View Post

I was a little worried because I rarely turned the other one past -20db or it was extremely loud. Just figure since they are both by Yamaha, they would be about the same.

Well, I would guess Yamaha receivers have probably shared somewhat similar gain structures. But there's no reason they would always be identical.

Power and gain are not the same thing.

Gain means nothing in terms of how powerful the amp is. Two equally powerful amps can have different gain, making one quieter than the other with the same input.

Then there's YPAO calibration. I have no idea how YPAO is programmed. One might speculate it tries to set all speakers to output 75 dB with the test tones when the volume is at 0 dB. But it's not quite dead on in my setup, anyway.

As for max power, you can determine that. Just turn it up until you hear distortion (it sounds worse). Then lower the volume a bit. That's your max power really give or take.
post #51 of 3908
I did the ypao calibration, but had to tweak it a bit afterwards. I set it up with an spl meter shooting for 70db using the test tones. Everything sounds great! The on screen menue is nice, much better than setting things up on the display. I can't wait to get the presence speakers hooked up to try that out.
post #52 of 3908
I have been happy with my RX-V667 for the past two weeks. However, I have noticed a quirk I'm not sure about... When I run component from my HD set-top box to the receiver, and then out through the HDMI to my projector, I get a thin white hairline vertically through the far left side of the picture. When I run component in, and then use the component output connection to the projector, it looks fine.

Is this some kind of artifact from component-to-HDMI conversion in the receiver? Is it generally a good idea to just go component-to-component? I am a new convert to HD switching and not very sophisticated about this stuff.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Ian
post #53 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iancw1 View Post

Is this some kind of artifact from component-to-HDMI conversion in the receiver? Is it generally a good idea to just go component-to-component? I am a new convert to HD switching and not very sophisticated about this stuff.

The video processing on these units is very "minimal", so if it's workable for you the image quality will be much better if you don't convert analog to digital and pass it to your display as component.
post #54 of 3908
Thanks - I appreciate the insight
post #55 of 3908
Hi I wonder if anyone might any insight into my problem.

I recently got a Yamaha rx-v667 receiver which is supposedly able to be 3D ready, a samsung UN55C7000 TV and a new Direct TV HD DVR receiver (I think it is HD 24-100).

When I view the Direct TV 3D channels (I think it is n3D), I get a picture that is side to side (same duplicate picture side to side with the screen split in 1/2), but not the blurred effect you should get with a 3D picture. This is when it is set up throught the Yamaha receiver.

However, if I connect the HDMI cable directly from the Direct TV receiver to the TV itself, then it works fine like it is supposed to.

Somehow the Yamaha receiver is interfering with the 3D signal from Direct TV or not processing it right.

Has anyone else had this problem or have any idea if there is a solution to this? Although I could just switch the cable back and forth it would be nice to have the Yamaha receiver to work with this set up (for the audio).
post #56 of 3908
Thread Starter 
Seems someone recently reported a similar issue with another mfg's receiver. It worked for Blu-ray but not for TV.

You may have to contact Yamaha and hope they are working on a fix.
post #57 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snacker123 View Post

Hi I wonder if anyone might any insight into my problem.

I recently got a Yamaha rx-v667 receiver which is supposedly able to be 3D ready, a samsung UN55C7000 TV and a new Direct TV HD DVR receiver (I think it is HD 24-100).

When I view the Direct TV 3D channels (I think it is n3D), I get a picture that is side to side (same duplicate picture side to side with the screen split in 1/2), but not the blurred effect you should get with a 3D picture. This is when it is set up throught the Yamaha receiver.

However, if I connect the HDMI cable directly from the Direct TV receiver to the TV itself, then it works fine like it is supposed to.

Somehow the Yamaha receiver is interfering with the 3D signal from Direct TV or not processing it right.

Has anyone else had this problem or have any idea if there is a solution to this? Although I could just switch the cable back and forth it would be nice to have the Yamaha receiver to work with this set up (for the audio).

Change the 3d setting on the tv
post #58 of 3908
Got my 667 for a couple of days now.

Great receiver.. Straight and Pure Mode is awesome.. adds so much color into the sound.

GUI is nice.. easy and intuitive.

Many options with the front presence speakers/zone 2 and sound options/quality.



My only minor grip and is understandable, if I turn my MCE box on about the same them with the Yamaha, the Yamaha has a hard time recognizing the Screen resolution and will output the video goofy to the tv. But I just put the computer on standby and bring it back up and it works fine.


But so far pretty happy!
post #59 of 3908
I am also trying to determine which 3D HDMI 1.4a receiver to buy. Either Yamaha 667, Onkyo 608 or one of the Harman Kardon. I have the Sammy 58 8000 series, c6900 dvd player. I plan to buy the Ascend Acoustic 340SE for fronts and center channel speaker. Even though I have an old school Yammy RX-V995, I am leaning toward HK or Onkyo. Shoud I be concerned about Harman Kardon statement that they will have firmware to upgrade to HDMI 1.4? Will it be the same with a receiver that already has 1.4 technology built in? I am not a techie, but one would assume that a firmware upgrade will not be as good as something built in.....

Any recommendations & opinions?
post #60 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rumble_Fish View Post

I am also trying to determine which 3D HDMI 1.4a receiver to buy. Either Yamaha 667, Onkyo 608 or one of the Harman Kardon. I have the Sammy 58 8000 series, c6900 dvd player. I plan to buy the Ascend Acoustic 340SE for fronts and center channel speaker. Even though I have an old school Yammy RX-V995, I am leaning toward HK or Onkyo. Shoud I be concerned about Harman Kardon statement that they will have firmware to upgrade to HDMI 1.4? Will it be the same with a receiver that already has 1.4 technology built in? I am not a techie, but one would assume that a firmware upgrade will not be as good as something built in.....

Any recommendations & opinions?

They can do the same thing as Sony did with the PS3. Which is make a 1.3 into a 1.3a to support 3d, however, it will never be 1.4 which supports internet.
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