"Official" Yamaha RX-V667/RX-V767 Thread - Page 110

How large is this black bar? I assume the black bar is thin and just to provide some contrast. Does it show a bar or a bar *and* a number like 0-100 or db?

How does this GUI compare to Pioneer or Denon?

Sorry to keep going on about this, i know kind of crazy, but it's the main feature I'm looking for. I'm in a rural area so it's a hassle to visit BM store.

See page 99 of the US OM. You might want to try another HDMI high speed cable.

In white, numbers and horizontal bar graph of volume level, both on a thin black bar. Somewhere in one of the Yamaha threads is a photograph of the bar. Good luck finding it.

I've been looking everywhere for some "real-life" watt measurements for the 667, anyone know where i can have a look?

Like this one http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/r...0-measurements

Anybody knows a solution to this problem?
Sorry for the bump, but it's starting to annoy me.
If there is no solution I will have to start shopping for a new receiver again.

Thanks

Start by disabling all CEC/HDMI Control on all equipment.

Well, I took the plunge on a Newegg recertified v667. Price was to good to pass up given the features. This is going to replace a v367 that will be going upstairs. Can't wait to try this out on my new Polk monitor 70's, cs2, and monitor 40's.

I have a question about audio formats. I have a V667, today i was watching drive angry in dts hd master audio format (verified by looking at the information-audio signal screen on tv from the reciever). When i engaged cinema dsp mode on the receiver the input signal on the audio signal information screen changes to just dts. Does this mean i am listening to cinema dsp mode with plain dts or cinema dsp with dts hd master audio. Perhaps cinema dsp mode is not compatible with high def audio sources and the v667automatically downgrades it to dts in order to use the dsp mode?

[quote=Warren454;21468668Perhaps cinema dsp mode is not compatible with high def audio sources and the v667automatically downgrades it to dts in order to use the dsp mode?[/QUOTE]

It's a question of processing power. And yes, you're getting the DTS core.

I'm unclear on the YPAO on this receiver. The Amazon pages states it has YPAO including an equalizer?

So is that true, or maybe it just equalizes the mains and not the subs?

I just upgraded from a 12 yr old Yamaha RX-V-793 to the 667. The 667 seems less powerful when driving my 5.1 Klipsch speakers.

Is it normal to have to watch TV/movies around -25 db??? Seems cranked over half way........the 793 was never turned up that high.

Thanks for the input!

"The Yamaha Parametric Room Acoustic Optimizer (YPAO) system uses a small microphone and sophisticated equalization to automatically set the best sound for any room, no matter where the speakers are. First it checks the speaker connections and phase of each speaker. Then it sends out tones which are captured by the microphone to analyze the room acoustics and sets a variety of parameters, such as the speaker size, the distance of the speakers and even the sound pressure level, etc. until it achieves the best sound conditions for your room." That's from Yamaha. It doesn't mean you can put your speakers anywhere and they'll still sound great. Optimal speaker placement can have as great an effect on sound quality as the quality of the speakers themselves. When you have your speakers placed optimally(or as close to it as you can),then let YPAO do the above. It's not a tone control,like the old graphic equalizers(if that's what you were thinking of). Of course,as in any automatic speaker calibration technology,tweaking to your personal taste is not frowned upon. Hope this helped.

Yamaha Parametric Room Acoustic Optimizer, I see the word parametric. Isn't that essentially like the old graphic equalizers from the old days?

Anyways, the big question is "does the 667 *parametrically equalize* the subwoofer channel?"

The Yamaha documentation is not clear and a member on this thread stated it does not.

That's a nice feature if you need to trim some peaks in the frequency response of your room.

Great question!

No, a parametric equalizer is not the same as a graphic equalizer. It is,as you mentioned,a tool for correcting specific problems,not a way to change the frequency response/tone of your speaker. The 667 does have a parametric equalizer that can be used in the manual mode to correct specific problems on all the speakers except the subwoofer. You have to adjust each speaker individually and it's a tedious procedure. Not recommended for newbies, a lot of folks end up frustrated with worse sound. The problem is that there's no real-time(or any kind of) display to show you what you've done(like a graphic eq.).You can do it with a good spl meter if you know what you're doing. See page 87 in the owners manual(you can download it),it actually has a good explanation. Look at the modes other than "manual",they're probably more useful.

I have a question about the "extra bass" option on the v667. According to the manual if the extra bass is disabled (default) Depending on the size of the front speakers either the front speakers or the sub produce the front channel low frequency components. When it is enabled both the front channel and the sub produce the front channel low frequency components. The question is how does this correspond with the sub crossover. For example i have the extra bass feature disabled but my front speakers are set to large (bypassing the cutoff freq) so the front speakers should already have all the same frequencies going to them as the sub. What difference would enabling the extra bass at this point do? Is there still a cutoff freq for the front speakers even if they are set to large? if so what is it

I got this receiver on my wish list for pickup in about a week's time. I am replacing a HTR-5635 that I am currently using now. the biggest and only reason for change out is HDMI handling and that's it

Given the specs from the Yamaha manual it looks like I will be gaining 15wpc which is neglegable and gaining about 2lbs in mass as compared to my current model. The Big differences seem to come from A/V handling capabilites and the change of display from orange (i like) to blue (no like)

One question I have though is power consumption... for a receiver that has a modest increase in max output, why did the wattage rating at the wall nearly double? 210W vs 400W?

I've had the RX-V667 for a couple months now and have been enjoying it. I have a 7.2 setup and when playing a bluray with DTS-hd audio I can't get the receiver to display that this is the playback mode, only says DSP. I can go in and go through all the DSP modes but can never get a DTS symbol to pull up. The disc is a 5.1 DTS recording. Any advice or info would be appreciated. The disc sounds great, I just wanted to compare the DSP processing to the DTS processing. Thanks

Just my opinion:turn the extra bass off and read this(the author is one of the co-founders of Audyssey);

http://www.audyssey.com/blog/2009/05/small-vs-large/

Your receiver puts out 5x75watts=375 watts. The 667 put out 7x90 watts=630 watts,that's why the difference in power consumption(need more to make more). The extra two pounds is probably a bigger transformer to handle the additional power. Both receivers,however,are rated with only 2 channels driven(a common practice to inflate power ratings). When you're using 5 or 7 channels, the actual power output is about half the 2 channel output. This is why I think pre-outs are a necessity, so you can add more power if needed.

BTW: Right now Amazon still has brand new 667s(not refurb or b stock) for$319 w/free ship,no tax. They won't last long.

I have the rx667 and can't seem to get the 12vtrigger to work? I have the trigger setting set to "power". Target is set to main and I am not having any luck turning on my switched outlets on my power console.
Any advice ?

-25db does not appear to be normal. I find -50db a decent volume for regular dramas/comedies/tv and for action movies where I want to hear and feel gunfire/explosions I crank it up to -40db. Anything louder and the house starts to shake!

I find -25 db to be normal. I am in a 24 x 16 vaulted ceiling room.

Thanks, this helped. After reading this i realized why after i switched my fronts from 2 small 2 1/2 inch polk rm7s to 2 sets of polk monitor 60 IIs with 3 5 1/4s in each speaker and setting the fronts to large because the new fronts can handle freq down to 38 hz (rm7s only 120), I was actually getting less bass. This was because the front speakers now handle the bass and not the sub. At this point i believe the sub just handled some "residual bass" from the surrond speakers which was barely noticeable (i put my ear right up to the porthole of the sub and came to this conclusion). Then i noticed after i switched the "extra bass" option on the sub behaved just like it did when the speakers were set to small, all the bass was there again. Heres my next dilemma. I would like my fronts to have a more "full" sound but not overly muddy with freqs below 80 hz since they are capabale of going down to 38 hz i dont want to cut them off at 100hz (im forced too because of my small sized rm8 center which i have to use due to limited space, side and rear Rm8s that all only go down to 95hz). What would be a better sounding option for me setting all the speakers to small and cutoff at 100hz or any other freq (i can choose in 10 hz incriments anywhere between 120 and 60) or setting the fronts to large, the extra bass feature on and just lowering the 80hz and below range on the fronts a little using the parametric equalizer. So far after trying a few different settings out i think i feel comfortable with all speakers at small and the cutoff at 90 (i highly doubt ill notice a small gap of 90-95 hz missing from my center, sides and rears which my fronts can now handle anyway)

It depends on a lot of things;room size and acoustics,speaker efficiency and placement and subwoofer just to mention a few. Driving high efficiency speakers with a big sub in a small room with bare walls,tile floors and minimal furniture is going to require a lot less power than low efficiency speakers with a small sub in a large carpeted room filled with stuffed furniture. You can see why you'll get a variety of replies,so many variables. This is why I keep talking about pre-outs(so you can add more power if you need it). Just to add my 2 cents,I listen to tv around -30,bluray around-25 and music up to -10.(these are all +/- 5). Those volume level numbers you're seeing on your display are arbitrarily set by the manufacturer and don't represent actual spl levels. Not only are they different from mfg. to mfg., they can differ from model to model.

Leave the extra bass off and set the PEQ to "front". Set the speakers to small.Now just play with the sub crossover freq.on the 667(your sub crossover should be set to bypass) and the bass tone control(why are people so afraid to use the tone controls?) and see if that helps. Also,subwoofers are more sensitive to placement than any other speaker. If you can try another spot for your sub,corners usually yield more output,mid-wall less output. Don't get frustrated;if it's easy,it can't be right.

Thanks, ill try that, i always put my sub in a corner regardless. Exacly what does the "front" setting on the peq do? all the manual says it adjusts individual speakers to the same charecteristics as the fronts, but in what way does it do that?

Does anyone know where to get parts for the RXV667? Or has a part list I can see?

Thanks

I'm planning on buying one of these in the near future. Can some one please describe how well the EQ works on these, please? Or am i going to have to invest in a separate EQ?

Thanks,
Jason

Sorry if this is a newbie question, but I remember reading a thread about this a few months back and was under the impression that the level was set after running YPAO. After your system is calibrated, 0 is supposed to represent reference volume. Is this not the case?