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"Official" Yamaha RX-V667/RX-V767 Thread - Page 113

post #3361 of 3737
it looks like you can save 1 manual setting and seveal YPAO settings but the manual does not state how many you can store and retreive
post #3362 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by sadmaker View Post

Ive searched this thread and the web with no matches. Any way to have the YPAO on the 667 calibrate to multiple seating locations? My old Onkyo's Audessey allowed calibration fro up to 3 different seating locations.

No,one seating location only.
post #3363 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by YeuEmMaiMai View Post

it looks like you can save 1 manual setting and seveal YPAO settings but the manual does not state how many you can store and retreive

Page 36 and 94 in o.m.;you can store one manual and one YPAO setting.
post #3364 of 3737
I tried searching with no luck. Is there any way around the global setting for the surround decode? I'm fricken pissed off that it doesn't remember prologic/neo6 setting per input like my last Yamaha.
post #3365 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by psycho View Post

I tried searching with no luck. Is there any way around the global setting for the surround decode? I'm fricken pissed off that it doesn't remember prologic/neo6 setting per input like my last Yamaha.

Don't go psycho now,search page 41 in the owners manual. You can set a surround mode for each of the scene buttons. I know......but four is better than none.

If you don't read Yamahaneese,here's how;
press input button
select surround mode
press and hold scene button(tv display will read "Scene _" and "setting complete")
you can release the button now

ain't nothin' but a thing.
post #3366 of 3737
Tried that, didn't work. Though I set the scene through the on screen menu, I'll try setting it with the buttons. I can live with that since I only need ProLogic for cablebox and my airport streaming.
post #3367 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by psycho View Post

Tried that, didn't work. Though I set the scene through the on screen menu, I'll try setting it with the buttons. I can live with that since I only need ProLogic for cablebox and my airport streaming.

press the input button first(NOT the scene button),set the surround mode you want and then press(and hold)the scene button last. Except for the tuner,you can assign any input to any scene. All this is done on the remote,don't need to press the "on screen" button. Almost everything coming out of my cable box/dvr is Dolby Digital,which is the default surround mode for the tv scene(but you can change it).Only on rare occasions do I watch something on cable that's not DD,then I switch to PLII or Neo6. The DVD scene will play whatever your DVD/Bluray is sending. The default for the CD scene is analog and I listen to music in 2.1 so that works for me. You could use the CD scene for your airport if you don't have a cd player.
post #3368 of 3737
That didn't work, it still stays on what ever was last selected globally. This is lame.
post #3369 of 3737
Don't know what to say,works on mine.
post #3370 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by sofast1 View Post

Don't know what to say,works on mine.

works over here too
post #3371 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by psycho View Post

That didn't work, it still stays on what ever was last selected globally. This is lame.

The "Extended Surround" setting is global for all 5.1 input. That is only an on-off setting apart from the selected decoder.

For 2 ch sources, "Extended Surround" has no effect, and with these you can just hit the "straight" button. That setting is remembered for each specific input. The SCENE buttons also remember that setting. Using the "decoder" button to select other decoders on a 2-ch input is also remembered for that specific input, but again the straight button deletes it until you use it again.
post #3372 of 3737
OK here goes...... I am going to have to seriously question Yamaha here.

I just replaced a HTR-5635 with a RX-V667 and I am having doubts to the new receivers power claims that are nearly double what the old one is

HTR 5635 weighs in at 21.3lbs and produces (per manual page 57)

* Minimum RMS Output Power for Main, Center, Rear
20Hz to 20kHz, 0.06% THD, 8 Ohm 75W
1kHZ, 0.09%THD, 8 Ohm 85W

/scrolls down to General*

*Power consumption
[USA model].......................210W
[Canada model]...................210W/260VA

so the HTR model by marketing claims can effectively put out 75w*5 or 375W

lets move on to the RX-V667

RX-V667 Manual (page 117)

*Audio Section
* Minimum RMS Output Power for Front, Center Surround
(20-20kHz, 0.08% THD, 8 Ohm)
FRONT L/R......................................90W + 90W
CENTER..........................................90W
SOURROUND L/R.............................90W + 90W
SOURROUND BACK..........................90W + 90W

/scrolls down to General section (page 118)

*Power consumption
[USA and Canada Models.................400W/500VA

weight 23.1 lbs

Now something just does NOT add up here and If I had to take an educated guess I would conclude that the increase in heft would be able to account for the slight output increase for 2 channel operation (the additional 15WPC).

Having had the cover off of the RX-V667 to replace the face plate I could see that the transformer did not appear to be significatly larger than the one in the HTR-5635, matter of fact they are very close in size. Also the amp sections appear to be very similar in layout with the RX-V having 4 more power transistors than the HTR-5635 (you know those things attached to the wavy sheet metal used as a heat sink)

so, Yamaha, what gives? did you change how you measure stuff or were you really conservative with the receivers in the old days?
post #3373 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by YeuEmMaiMai View Post

OK here goes...... I am going to have to seriously question Yamaha here.

I just replaced a HTR-5635 with a RX-V667 and I am having doubts to the new receivers power claims that are nearly double what the old one is

HTR 5635 weighs in at 21.3lbs and produces (per manual page 57)

* Minimum RMS Output Power for Main, Center, Rear
20Hz to 20kHz, 0.06% THD, 8 Ohm 75W
1kHZ, 0.09%THD, 8 Ohm 85W

/scrolls down to General*

*Power consumption
[USA model].......................210W
[Canada model]...................210W/260VA

so the HTR model by marketing claims can effectively put out 75w*5 or 375W

lets move on to the RX-V667

RX-V667 Manual (page 117)

*Audio Section
* Minimum RMS Output Power for Front, Center Surround
(20-20kHz, 0.08% THD, 8 Ohm)
FRONT L/R......................................90W + 90W
CENTER..........................................90W
SOURROUND L/R.............................90W + 90W
SOURROUND BACK..........................90W + 90W

/scrolls down to General section (page 118)

*Power consumption
[USA and Canada Models.................400W/500VA

weight 23.1 lbs

Now something just does NOT add up here and If I had to take an educated guess I would conclude that the increase in heft would be able to account for the slight output increase for 2 channel operation (the additional 15WPC).

Having had the cover off of the RX-V667 to replace the face plate I could see that the transformer did not appear to be significatly larger than the one in the HTR-5635, matter of fact they are very close in size. Also the amp sections appear to be very similar in layout with the RX-V having 4 more power transistors than the HTR-5635 (you know those things attached to the wavy sheet metal used as a heat sink)

so, Yamaha, what gives? did you change how you measure stuff or were you really conservative with the receivers in the old days?

Neither. You have to realize that both are rated with two channels driven. Yes,that's a pretty stupid way to rate a receiver designed to be used with 5 or 7 channels driven,but almost every mfg. does it now to inflate their power ratings. The reality is that when driving 5 or 7 channels your AVR will put out a max of about half the rated power, so the difference between 75 and 90 watts is really about 7 watts per channel(very close to meaningless). It's all about the same power transformer driving 5 or 7 amplifiers. Denon brags about discrete amplifiers. Doesn't mean a thing if they're driven by a single small power transformer. Look at the toroidal power transformer in a good separate 2 ch. power amp,it's as big as your fist(that's a high current amp),then look at the one in your AVR,it'll fit in your palm(that's not a high current amp). No way physically or financially to put 3 of those high current babies in your AVR. The 1.8 lbs difference is probably the 7 ch. vs. 5ch. 5x75 does equal 375 watts,7x90=630 watts hence the bigger max power consumption. Unfortunately the trend the last several years is to add more features(web,Icrap,streaming etc),not improve audio performance. The RX-V671 is a perfect example. Save your pennies and add a high current amp to those pre-outs and Holy Moly! You will hear a big-time difference!!
post #3374 of 3737
I guess I should have been clearer, I was wondering about the power coming out of the wall that the receiver is consuming on average... I just don't think the 190W increase in consumption is legit or that 210W on the older receiver is understated somewhat...
post #3375 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by YeuEmMaiMai View Post

I guess I should have been clearer, I was wondering about the power coming out of the wall that the receiver is consuming on average... I just don't think the 190W increase in consumption is legit or that 210W on the older receiver is understated somewhat...

At max rated output,the 667 puts out 168% more power(630/375),so it consumes more power(at max output). Of course nobody runs at max output,so how much power does it consume at average levels?.........hell if I know. While it does drive two additional channels,I would hope the newer technology would make it a little more efficient so I doubt there's a big difference 'tween the two. If you really want to know, there are inexpensive meters you can buy that will tell you the electric usage of any electric device or appliance(just plugs in the outlet). Kind of interesting to find out that the electronic device in your HT or living room that costs the most to operate is your cable box/dvr!
post #3376 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

The "Extended Surround" setting is global for all 5.1 input. That is only an on-off setting apart from the selected decoder.

For 2 ch sources, "Extended Surround" has no effect, and with these you can just hit the "straight" button. That setting is remembered for each specific input. The SCENE buttons also remember that setting. Using the "decoder" button to select other decoders on a 2-ch input is also remembered for that specific input, but again the straight button deletes it until you use it again.

I'm not talking about extended surround. I'm talking regular ProLogic / ProLogic 2/Neo:6. That is a global setting on my receiver and it's a bit annoying.
post #3377 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by psycho View Post

I'm not talking about extended surround. I'm talking regular ProLogic / ProLogic 2/Neo:6. That is a global setting on my receiver and it's a bit annoying.

No, it's not a global setting, it's specific to each input. But it IS remembered so you have to hit "straight" to cancel the decoder. (or select a different decoder)
This is what the "straight" and "decoder" buttons on the remote are for. And as already mentioned, if you have a SCENE button set with a decoder, that too is remembered.
post #3378 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

No, it's not a global setting, it's specific to each input. But it IS remembered so you have to hit "straight" to cancel the decoder. (or select a different decoder)
This is what the "straight" and "decoder" buttons on the remote are for. And as already mentioned, if you have a SCENE button set with a decoder, that too is remembered.

Mine does not remember the decoder chosen. I tried to set TV viewing to ProLogic II Game and CD listening to ProLogic II Music and it does not switch the decoder, it stays on which ever was last selected, even if I press straight before changing inputs. The only way I can get it to say on ProLogic II Movie/Game on the TV Scene is if I select a sound field program, and that's not what I want.

I contacted Yamaha about this, they said it's global and there is no way around it on the RX-V667.
post #3379 of 3737
I just bought this receiver. I have a fat PS3 hooked up via hdmi. A few questions.

How do I know if I am listening to HD audio if it is outputted via PCM?

Is there a display that shows hd audio such as DTS-HDMA?

How do I know if a need to update the firmware?

Can I watch cable tv while listening to the tuner if the cable box is hooked up via hdmi?
post #3380 of 3737
If you're bitstreaming to the AVR, the main display on the unit tells you what it is decoding. If PCM is being sent to the AVR then it will display PCM, so in order to know if you are decoding HD-MA you would need to check the player. The 667 will always display the encoding or it will show no signal if there is no audio being sent to it.
post #3381 of 3737
Well I just got the service manual and I have to say there is little to no guidance in it for troubleshooting.... but that's OK at least it shows me where to start if needed...
post #3382 of 3737
I know this is the 667 thread but cant find this anywhere and was hoping the YAPO's are basicallly the same on Yamahas. If not ignore...

I just want to know if I'm doing this right. This is my first YPAO system with my RX-A810.

It looks like if I set all my speakers to "small" and set the "bass cross over" to 80Hz, that means all speakers are at 80Hz...right?

So there doesn't look like there's a setting for the Sub. So is that handled by turning the sub freq. to max as the manual says?

One more thing, when I go into the PEQ manually, is the "center frequency" adjustment for each speaker another way of setting the Hz?
post #3383 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by gce View Post

I know this is the 667 thread but cant find this anywhere and was hoping the YAPO's are basicallly the same on Yamahas. If not ignore...

I just want to know if I'm doing this right. This is my first YPAO system with my RX-A810.

It looks like if I set all my speakers to "small" and set the "bass cross over" to 80Hz, that means all speakers are at 80Hz...right?

Right.
Quote:



So there doesn't look like there's a setting for the Sub. So is that handled by turning the sub freq. to max as the manual says?

Your sub should always be set to defeat any internal crossover.
Quote:



One more thing, when I go into the PEQ manually, is the "center frequency" adjustment for each speaker another way of setting the Hz?

Any manual PEQ settings will defeat the YPAO adjustments that have been made. If you're not familiar with the workings of PEQ it's best to leave that alone. The "center freq" is the middle point of the curve for that EQ band.
post #3384 of 3737
Thanks rdgrimes!

Now why isn't there an "Official YAPO thread" like there is an "Official Audyssey Thread" so we can all learn how all this works.
post #3385 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by gce View Post

I know this is the 667 thread but cant find this anywhere and was hoping the YAPO's are basicallly the same on Yamahas. If not ignore...

I just want to know if I'm doing this right. This is my first YPAO system with my RX-A810.

It looks like if I set all my speakers to "small" and set the "bass cross over" to 80Hz, that means all speakers are at 80Hz...right?

So there doesn't look like there's a setting for the Sub. So is that handled by turning the sub freq. to max as the manual says?

One more thing, when I go into the PEQ manually, is the "center frequency" adjustment for each speaker another way of setting the Hz?

Setup menu-> speakers->subwoofer =On
post #3386 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by YeuEmMaiMai View Post

Setup menu-> speakers->subwoofer =On

How about;on screen>setup>speaker>manual setup>configuration>subwoofer=use
post #3387 of 3737
Have a problem with my 867 that I'm wondering if anyone else is having.

Sometimes I'll switch to an input and, after the switch, the reciever gets "stuck" in 2 channel mode and the volume control will not work. I have to turn the reciever off and then back on again for it to become "unstuck" and begin working correctly again...

I can always tell when it has messed up like this as it won't display all my speakers (I'm running a 5.1 system) on the LCD screen. In fact, it won't show any speakers at all on the screen. It will only have the decoding type displayed on screen.

Any ideas? Again, it only really seems to happen when changing to a new input.

Edit: Just noticed I posted this in the wrong thread! My bad!
post #3388 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggen_PCB View Post

Have a problem with my 867 that I'm wondering if anyone else is having.

Sometimes I'll switch to an input and, after the switch, the reciever gets "stuck" in 2 channel mode and the volume control will not work. I have to turn the reciever off and then back on again for it to become "unstuck" and begin working correctly again...

I can always tell when it has messed up like this as it won't display all my speakers (I'm running a 5.1 system) on the LCD screen. In fact, it won't show any speakers at all on the screen. It will only have the decoding type displayed on screen.

Any ideas? Again, it only really seems to happen when changing to a new input.

Edit: Just noticed I posted this in the wrong thread! My bad!

The only thing I might suggest would be to check your firmware version and see if it needs an update. I don't know if there's a way to do a full factory reset.
post #3389 of 3737
I've run YPAO quite a bit since I've owned my V667, has anyone else noticed the subwoofer being turned down really low? Last night when I added a CS20 it set my subwoofer to -10 dB. I keep the volume dial at 12 o' clock and adjust it from there on the AVR.

I was also just curious where other owners had their volume? I sit about 10 feet away from my TV and have my AVR volume between -32.0 dB and -24.0 with rare exceptions as loud as -16.0. I just watched The Godfather on DVD this weekend and it's a very quiet movie, I really had to crank it. ~-30.0 dB is good for media played off my HTPC, and I would feel like I was at a rock concert if I put it at -16.0 dB.
post #3390 of 3737
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

I've run YPAO quite a bit since I've owned my V667, has anyone else noticed the subwoofer being turned down really low? Last night when I added a CS20 it set my subwoofer to -10 dB. I keep the volume dial at 12 o' clock and adjust it from there on the AVR.

You should re-adjust the sub's level down and re-run YPAO. You want YPAO to wind up setting the sub channel close to "0".

Quote:
I was also just curious where other owners had their volume? I sit about 10 feet away from my TV and have my AVR volume between -32.0 dB and -24.0 with rare exceptions as loud as -16.0. I just watched The Godfather on DVD this weekend and it's a very quiet movie, I really had to crank it. ~-30.0 dB is good for media played off my HTPC, and I would feel like I was at a rock concert if I put it at -16.0 dB.

-20 to -30 is common for many users.
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