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"Official" Yamaha RX-V667/RX-V767 Thread - Page 114

post #3391 of 3908
Thank you!
post #3392 of 3908
Hi,

I have the RXV-667 and a Panasonic 58 inch plasma (TC-P58S2) where ARC is designated to HDMI1. I have an HDMI v4.1 cable plugged into HDMI1(ARC) from the TV going to the HDMI out port on the Yamaha. Pretty much all my sources (PS3, PC, Cable box which is now gone) used to take up HDMI 1, 2, 3 on my reciver and then 1 HDMI goes out to the TV into the HDMI1 slot on the TV. So all I did was unplug the cable box and plug the coax from the wall into my TV. When I turn the TV away from HDMI1 and put it on the TV channel source then I can see the picture but no sound on the Yamaha. I can enable the speakers on the TV and hear the sound fine, but I want to hear it through the Yamaha. There are no ARC settings on the TV, as I've been through every menu...so I'm assuming that's good to go. On the Yamaha, I enabled ARC by turning it on and I even played around with the audio setting within the same menu that tells you where the audio should go (Audio1, 2, AVI 1, 2, etc...) and none of those worked. I'm really at a loss and I really don't want to go the Optical route since both TV and Receiver support ARC and 1.4 HDMI supports as well. Any ideas or suggestions? Thank you
post #3393 of 3908
Finally!

I got my new front panel installed and I took the dents out of the metal for the receiver cover and now it looks like new.

mmoreimi

Take a HDMI cable and run it from TV to receiver. Next, run 1 HDMI from {insert device here} to receiver for each device.

Should work just fine that way
post #3394 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by YeuEmMaiMai View Post

Finally!

I got my new front panel installed and I took the dents out of the metal for the receiver cover and now it looks like new.

mmoreimi

Take a HDMI cable and run it from TV to receiver. Next, run 1 HDMI from {insert device here} to receiver for each device.

Should work just fine that way

Thanks for the reply!
I have a 1.4a HDMI cable plugged into "HDMI 1" port on my TV. The TV supports ARC (as it's literally labeled as "ARC" next to the input). This same HDMI cable goes directly to the receiver's "Out" port. There are 5 "ins" and 1 "out" for our receiver. In the receiver settings, I have ARC turned on and have mapped the audio to Audio 1. Still not working
post #3395 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmoreimi View Post

Thanks for the reply!
I have a 1.4a HDMI cable plugged into "HDMI 1" port on my TV. The TV supports ARC (as it's literally labeled as "ARC" next to the input). This same HDMI cable goes directly to the receiver's "Out" port. There are 5 "ins" and 1 "out" for our receiver. In the receiver settings, I have ARC turned on and have mapped the audio to Audio 1. Still not working

Hi mmoreimi, others has mention issue with Yammy and Panasonic ARC. But go into tv menu and check that Viera Link is set to "on" and Speakers to "Theater". Then power off and on the tv and the receiver as well.
post #3396 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Hi mmoreimi, others has mention issue with Yammy and Panasonic ARC. But go into tv menu and check that Viera Link is set to "on" and Speakers to "Theater". Then power off and on the tv and the receiver as well.

Dude, you f-ing rock!
That was it. And the shutdown of both devices and restart sealed the deal.
Thank you so much.
post #3397 of 3908
Hi,

I have the following items:
  • Yamaha RX-V667
  • 4 - Infinity Primus P162 (6.5"+ woofers are "large") as front and rear channels
  • 1 - Infinity Primus PC350 as the center
  • 1 - PS28 8" as the sub.

I decided to allow the receiver to manage the crossover instead of the sub. As I understand it, you want to determine the lowest frequency your fronts can perform (mine say 49 - 20k hz) and then set your crossover at least 10 higher. Also anything below 80 is "directional" so you would be able to pinpoint the source of the subwoofer which is not preferred.

My issue is that I want my subwoofer on and working all the time. If I tell the Yamaha that my front speakers are large, when there is no 5.1 content, the subwoofer won't turn on. For the sub to always be on and performing, you have to tell your Yamaha that you have small speakers. So now since I have small speakers settting in the Yamaha, how do I know what my lowest frequency is so I can add 10khz or 20khz so I can define that crossover # on my Yamaha?

Thanks!
post #3398 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmoreimi View Post

Hi,

I have the following items:
  • Yamaha RX-V667
  • 4 - Infinity Primus P162 (6.5"+ woofers are "large") as front and rear channels
  • 1 - Infinity Primus PC350 as the center
  • 1 - PS28 8" as the sub.
i

I decided to allow the receiver to manage the crossover instead of the sub. As I understand it, you want to determine the lowest frequency your fronts can perform (mine say 49 - 20k hz) and then set your crossover at least 10 higher. Also anything below 80 is "directional" so you would be able to pinpoint the source of the subwoofer which is not preferred.

My issue is that I want my subwoofer on and working all the time. If I tell the Yamaha that my front speakers are large, when there is no 5.1 content, the subwoofer won't turn on. For the sub to always be on and performing, you have to tell your Yamaha that you have small speakers. So now since I have small speakers settting in the Yamaha, how do I know what my lowest frequency is so I can add 10khz or 20khz so I can define that crossover # on my Yamaha?

Thanks!

Check the specs of the speakers, I'm not familiar with them, but maybe they'll be rated for 55-25000 Hz (just guessing), but it may be easier just to set it to 80 Hz. If you don't like it you can always change it. By setting the speakers to small angryng below the crossover goes to the sub and I'm pretty sure it's frequencies below 80Hz are non-directional. If you set the speakers to large then the (I forget which) might or might not produce sound in addition to the mains/speakers set to large.
post #3399 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmoreimi View Post

...My issue is that I want my subwoofer on and working all the time. If I tell the Yamaha that my front speakers are large, when there is no 5.1 content, the subwoofer won't turn on. For the sub to always be on and performing, you have to tell your Yamaha that you have small speakers. So now since I have small speakers settting in the Yamaha, how do I know what my lowest frequency is so I can add 10khz or 20khz so I can define that crossover # on my Yamaha?

If you set all speakers to small (which is normally a good idea), the crossover is determined by your least capable speaker (because you can only have one crossover frequency for all speakers set as small). In this case that looks to be your centre channel (80-20000Hz if this is it). So use at least 80Hz for the crossover (and maybe it should even be a bit higher for the PC350).
post #3400 of 3908
Hey guys, I am considering buying the 667 to replace my Onkyo 706. I love the sound of the Onkyo, but I am sick of continual HDMI handshake issues with my PS3 and Comcast DVR. It has gotten so bad that the Onkyo WILL NOT, under any circumstances, recognize a 1080p signal. 1080i will work after the receiver warms up for 20-30 minutes. It's really annoying after paying $550 not quite 3 years ago...

So, on to my question. Does the Yammy have any HDMI handshake issues with the PS3 (slim) and/or a SHARP AQUOS LC60E88UN? I realize every piece of equipment has some sort of issue somewhere. I just want to know if there are any known issues with this combo.

I will eventually read all 57 pages about this receiver, but haven't started yet. I have owned a Yamaha receiver before (the 992, ages ago) and loved it. I won't buy another Onkyo now, and none of the Sony receivers have preamp outs. I need a receiver that will preout to my Hafler XL-280 amp. Funny how this amp is still awesome after 20 years of use, but these AVR's crap out after 2+1/2....

By the way, I am looking at paying about $388 (w/shipping) for the 667, which seems like a good deal with the features it has. Is this about what you guys have found?
post #3401 of 3908
I would recommend looking around for reburbished V667s if you have the option. I got mine when Newegg was closing them out and they were going for about $250-$260. I'm not sure where other refurbed units might be had, perhaps official Ebay sellers, but that's what I would do if I were to do it over again.
post #3402 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by lvtdude View Post

Hey guys, I am considering buying the 667 to replace my Onkyo 706. I love the sound of the Onkyo, but I am sick of continual HDMI handshake issues with my PS3 and Comcast DVR. It has gotten so bad that the Onkyo WILL NOT, under any circumstances, recognize a 1080p signal. 1080i will work after the receiver warms up for 20-30 minutes. It's really annoying after paying $550 not quite 3 years ago...

So, on to my question. Does the Yammy have any HDMI handshake issues with the PS3 (slim) and/or a SHARP AQUOS LC60E88UN? I realize every piece of equipment has some sort of issue somewhere. I just want to know if there are any known issues with this combo.

I will eventually read all 57 pages about this receiver, but haven't started yet. I have owned a Yamaha receiver before (the 992, ages ago) and loved it. I won't buy another Onkyo now, and none of the Sony receivers have preamp outs. I need a receiver that will preout to my Hafler XL-280 amp. Funny how this amp is still awesome after 20 years of use, but these AVR's crap out after 2+1/2....

By the way, I am looking at paying about $388 (w/shipping) for the 667, which seems like a good deal with the features it has. Is this about what you guys have found?

I have handshake issues with the following setup

32LG30 TV
PS3 slim
RX-V667
Motorola Cable Boc
Xboc 360

None of them will display a signal on the TV if they are connected to the receiver first. They will all however pass 1080p to the TV via direct connections...

Bought my receiver used for $250 + $30 shipping. Unit was damaged in shipping so I asked seller to refund shipping after i verified that the unit was functional. I then bought a new faceplate for $34 from Yamaha parts. total cost was $299 for a receiver that looks brand new.....
post #3403 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by YeuEmMaiMai View Post

I have handshake issues with the following setup

32LG30 TV
PS3 slim
RX-V667
Motorola Cable Boc
Xboc 360

None of them will display a signal on the TV if they are connected to the receiver first. They will all however pass 1080p to the TV via direct connections...

Bought my receiver used for $250 + $30 shipping. Unit was damaged in shipping so I asked seller to refund shipping after i verified that the unit was functional. I then bought a new faceplate for $34 from Yamaha parts. total cost was $299 for a receiver that looks brand new.....

Well, that's disheartening.
post #3404 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

If you set all speakers to small (which is normally a good idea), the crossover is determined by your least capable speaker (because you can only have one crossover frequency for all speakers set as small). In this case that looks to be your centre channel (80-20000Hz if this is it). So use at least 80Hz for the crossover (and maybe it should even be a bit higher for the PC350).

Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

Check the specs of the speakers, I'm not familiar with them, but maybe they'll be rated for 55-25000 Hz (just guessing), but it may be easier just to set it to 80 Hz. If you don't like it you can always change it. By setting the speakers to small angryng below the crossover goes to the sub and I'm pretty sure it's frequencies below 80Hz are non-directional. If you set the speakers to large then the (I forget which) might or might not produce sound in addition to the mains/speakers set to large.

Thank you both. That makes sense.
post #3405 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by lvtdude View Post

Well, that's disheartening.

It just goes to show you how ill thought out the spec was from the beginning

1. Poor connector
2. lack of a standard that is truly backwards compatable
post #3406 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by YeuEmMaiMai View Post

It just goes to show you how ill thought out the spec was from the beginning

1. Poor connector
2. lack of a standard that is truly backwards compatable

I agree. However, I need a new receiver, and I'm going to cross both fingers and hope the new unit I just ordered works flawlessly.

I found the Yamaha RX-A700 (essentially the 667 with supposedly better parts?) for exactly $1 more than the 667.

If it doesn't handshake properly and send 1080p like it should I will send the thing back. Oh, and the 700 is in the Aventage line and carries a 3 year warranty. Nice.
post #3407 of 3908
I know this is bass ackwards, but now that I have to wait for my new receiver to arrive, I can read through all 50+ pages of info on the 667/700.

FUN
post #3408 of 3908
I've had mine for less than a week. I decided to replace my Pioneer 1018 1.3 AVR with this one for its 3d and bitstreaming capabilities and bought it after reading some reviews. But I didn't do as much research as usual. Paid $281 for B stock off of ebay.
Had to burn 6 CDs using different programs and dig my HD DVD player out of the closet just to upgrade the software.

This AVR sounds as good as the Pioneer in my opinion, and I'm happy with that.
After the upgrade I still had HDMI problems, so ended up using a EDID for my Samsung 3d TV and Pioneer AVR. Now I can at least get 3d with high definition audio via my HTPC without having to use the HDMI Detective. I do have lipsync problems with some 3d movies that I need to resolve.

Now to read all of these pages...

High Definition Made Impossible (HDMI) has degenerated computer performance (hdcp), has driven me insane (hdmi).
post #3409 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z0p View Post

I've had mine for less than a week. I decided to replace my Pioneer 1018 1.3 AVR with this one for its 3d and bitstreaming capabilities and bought it after reading some reviews. But I didn't do as much research as usual. Paid $281 for B stock off of ebay.
Had to burn 6 CDs using different programs and dig my HD DVD player out of the closet just to upgrade the software.

This AVR sounds as good as the Pioneer in my opinion, and I'm happy with that.
After the upgrade I still had HDMI problems, so ended up using a EDID for my Samsung 3d TV and Pioneer AVR. Now I can at least get 3d with high definition audio via my HTPC without having to use the HDMI Detective. I do have lipsync problems with some 3d movies that I need to resolve.

Now to read all of these pages...

High Definition Made Impossible (HDMI) has degenerated computer performance (hdcp), has driven me insane (hdmi).

If the only problem is 3D, I'll be happy, since I have no interest in 3DTV. I was hoping 3D would be a passing fad, but apparently not.
post #3410 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by mistata View Post

Hi kriktsemaj99,

I found how to turn the Yamaha rx-v667 back on.

Problem:
As a safety precaution, when the protection circuitry operates 3 times consequently, the capability to turn on the power is disabled.

Solution (according to Yamaha service):
Plug the power cord out. Plug it back in.
Press the following three buttons at the same time for 5 seconds: Main Zone + Info + Tone Control
The receiver will open.
He suggested also to set the device back in the factory defaults by picking "S3-Factory Preset" and changing "PRESET INH" to "RSRV". I actually didnt set it back to factory defaults.

I hope it will help others too.

Thanks for this - I just used this to get my YHT-296B to restart after 20mins of brown-out power yesterday!
post #3411 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by lvtdude View Post

If the only problem is 3D, I'll be happy, since I have no interest in 3DTV. I was hoping 3D would be a passing fad, but apparently not.

I know what you mean, but it seems like something that might actually be here to stay. In one of the Star Wars commentaries Lucas said he thought it was a fad and didn't ever expect to get into it, but now look. The Phantom Menace is already in theaters in 3D.
post #3412 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by anikun07 View Post

I know what you mean, but it seems like something that might actually be here to stay. In one of the Star Wars commentaries Lucas said he thought it was a fad and didn't ever expect to get into it, but now look. The Phantom Menace is already in theaters in 3D.

That's interesting, because I was thinking this was another example of Lucas knowing what was to come and planning to make the movie in 3D at a later date. It seems there's never an end to the "improvements" that can be made on Star Wars movies.
post #3413 of 3908
Absolutely! I wish I could remember which movie it was, but he said they had done a test on A New Hope but he didn't think it really did much to the movie. Anyway, I don't wanna hijack the thread.
post #3414 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmoreimi View Post

Hi,

I have the following items:
  • Yamaha RX-V667
  • 4 - Infinity Primus P162 (6.5"+ woofers are "large") as front and rear channels
  • 1 - Infinity Primus PC350 as the center
  • 1 - PS28 8" as the sub.

I decided to allow the receiver to manage the crossover instead of the sub. As I understand it, you want to determine the lowest frequency your fronts can perform (mine say 49 - 20k hz) and then set your crossover at least 10 higher. Also anything below 80 is "directional" so you would be able to pinpoint the source of the subwoofer which is not preferred.

My issue is that I want my subwoofer on and working all the time. If I tell the Yamaha that my front speakers are large, when there is no 5.1 content, the subwoofer won't turn on. For the sub to always be on and performing, you have to tell your Yamaha that you have small speakers. So now since I have small speakers settting in the Yamaha, how do I know what my lowest frequency is so I can add 10khz or 20khz so I can define that crossover # on my Yamaha?

Thanks!

Read this; http://www.audyssey.com/blog/2009/05/small-vs-large/ The author is one of the co-founders of Audssey. Then set your speakers to small and your crossover on your AVR to 80hz. The crossover on your sub should be set to "defeat" or all the way up.You can lower the xover freq.(on the AVR) a little to your taste,but don't raise it.
post #3415 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by sofast1 View Post

Read this; http://www.audyssey.com/blog/2009/05/small-vs-large/ The author is one of the co-founders of Audssey. Then set your speakers to small and your crossover on your AVR to 80hz. The crossover on your sub should be set to "defeat" or all the way up.You can lower the xover freq.(on the AVR) a little to your taste,but don't raise it.

Excellent article, thank you! My AVR has set the speakers to small and so far 80hz sounds good and clean. No overlapping....
post #3416 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by sofast1 View Post

Read this; http://www.audyssey.com/blog/2009/05/small-vs-large/ The author is one of the co-founders of Audssey. Then set your speakers to small and your crossover on your AVR to 80hz. The crossover on your sub should be set to "defeat" or all the way up.You can lower the xover freq.(on the AVR) a little to your taste,but don't raise it.

All AVR models should come with these set up instructions, I see people all the time that are unaware of these procedures then ending up unsatisfied with there systems.
post #3417 of 3908
I got my A700 today. Ordered it late Friday night. They said it would be here by the 29th. I was excited when I saw it was on the UPS truck this morning.

So, Everything with the set up went smoothly. It's a little weird transitioning back to Yamahese from Onkyese, but I started to remember some things from my Yamaha 992, and all is well.

What took me some extra time was hooking up the darn speakers. I have double banana plugs all the way around, and the damn terminal are too far apart for dual banana plugs. I had to go bare wire, which took some extra time. Whoever decided to space those terminals so far apart should be shot.

Anyway, I'm up and running, and everything looks and sounds good. Interestingly, my firware version came as 2.06, so I didn't have to use the update CD I made yesterday. Oh well, I have a nice shiny coaster now...
post #3418 of 3908
Agree with the frustration on banana jack spacing. The spacing however, was the same on my previous receiver so I had been down that road before (it must be some sort of a standard). My solution, banana jack spacing horizontally works for double banana plugs (front right high/front left high on a double banana plug, front right low/front left low on the double banana below it, etc). Single banana plugs have to do for the center speaker on my setup.
post #3419 of 3908
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmoreimi View Post

Excellent article, thank you! My AVR has set the speakers to small and so far 80hz sounds good and clean. No overlapping....

Quote:
Originally Posted by marmyk1 View Post

All AVR models should come with these set up instructions, I see people all the time that are unaware of these procedures then ending up unsatisfied with there systems.

Glad I could help,just payin' it forward.
post #3420 of 3908
Ok, new question...

RX-V667 connected to a Dell C521. The video card has been upgraded to an ATI Radeon HD 4300. It has HDMI so that's how it's connected to the receiver. I play various file types such mkv, mp4, m4v, etc...

I use VLC Media Player, but have tried WMP as well.
While watching a movie, I'll click on the audio decoding buttons on the remote to change to PLII, 2-channel, Straight, etc.. and the display on the receiver's LCD will frequently say "not available". So I cannot make any type of change to the audio. Does this indicate that the PC is doing the 5.1 decoding into DTS, etc...? I would prefer my receiver to do this. Any ideas?
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