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"Official" Yamaha RX-V667/RX-V767 Thread - Page 4

post #91 of 3737
8/7/10 at 12:39pm
Thanks rdgrimes,
I found the area you directed me to. I set it to 7ch and 1zone.
I still had trouble till I figured out I had to use a parallel analog cables from the frontier box to audio1 or audio2. All is well now.
Thanks again,
Lew
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post #92 of 3737
8/7/10 at 2:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wainwrig View Post

Hi, a quick question for any other 667 owners. When changing the volume the 667 shows the setting on the tv (white text in a big black box) via the HDMI overlay. I've looked in the manual, and checked all of the options, and I don't see any way to disable this feature. I don't mind it, but it is driving my wife nuts. Does anyone know if it is possible to keep it from doing this? Thanks.

It would drive me nuts as well. I hope someone with a 667 answers your question, because from the manual it doesn't look like you can disable the volume overlay, and if so I'm afraid they might have carried this "feature" over to the new RX-A series. That would be a deal breaker for me, as it's very intrusive for everyone watching a movie when the person with the remote is making fine adjustments to the volume.
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post #93 of 3737
8/7/10 at 6:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wainwrig View Post

Hi, a quick question for any other 667 owners. When changing the volume the 667 shows the setting on the tv (white text in a big black box) via the HDMI overlay. I've looked in the manual, and checked all of the options, and I don't see any way to disable this feature. I don't mind it, but it is driving my wife nuts. Does anyone know if it is possible to keep it from doing this? Thanks.

Hi wainwrig, just a guess here but check your Tv menu under HDMI-CEC feature and see if this is turned On. If so, turn this feature Off and see if this corrects the volume issue. Some HDMI-CEC trade names: Samsung is AnyNet+, Sony is Bravia, Panasonic is Viera Link, Pioneer is Kuro Link, etc...).
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post #94 of 3737
8/7/10 at 7:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Hi wainwrig, just a guess here but check your Tv menu under HDMI-CEC feature and see if this is turned On. If so, turn this feature Off and see if this corrects the volume issue. Some HDMI-CEC trade names: Samsung is AnyNet+, Sony is Bravia, Panasonic is Viera Link, Pioneer is Kuro Link, etc...).

I don't think that's it. It's not the TV displaying the volume, the 667 is actually embedding it in the video signal before it goes to the TV. It's a good feature to have as long as it's optional and can be turned off. The first Yamaha receiver to support this was the RX-V3900, but it could be turned off. On the 667 the manual doesn't describe any way to disable it.
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post #95 of 3737
8/7/10 at 7:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

I don't think that's it. It's not the TV displaying the volume, the 667 is actually embedding it in the video signal before it goes to the TV. It's a good feature to have as long as it's optional and can be turned off. The first Yamaha receiver to support this was the RX-V3900, but it could be turned off. On the 667 the manual doesn't describe any way to disable it.

Hi kriktsemaj99, didn't know that. So would turning Off HDMI-CEC on Yamaha correct this?
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post #96 of 3737
8/7/10 at 8:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Hi kriktsemaj99, didn't know that. So would turning Off HDMI-CEC on Yamaha correct this?

I don't think so, but I can't test it myself.
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post #97 of 3737
8/8/10 at 2:53am
is the 767 the perfect receiver for me? I currently have a Denon 2307 feeding some kef eggs. But have just bought a 3DTV that came with a 3D bluray player bundle.

I need to send all my sources (HD satellite, PS3, bluray, mac mini) to both my TV and projector. Also needs to be wife-friendly and not need the receiver to be on just for watching satellite TV during the day.

I'm currently using one HDMI switch and a HDMI repeater to somehow handle this, its all a bit heath-robinson.

The 767 looks like I can feed everything in via HDMI, and output to both my TV and projector simultaneously. It'll handle 3D stuff fine, and also passthrough the HDMI while in standby. You can also switch HDMI inputs while in standby.

Any caveats to this?
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post #98 of 3737
8/8/10 at 9:11pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snacker123 View Post

Hi I wonder if anyone might any insight into my problem.

I recently got a Yamaha rx-v667 receiver which is supposedly able to be 3D ready, a samsung UN55C7000 TV and a new Direct TV HD DVR receiver (I think it is HD 24-100).

When I view the Direct TV 3D channels (I think it is n3D), I get a picture that is side to side (same duplicate picture side to side with the screen split in 1/2), but not the blurred effect you should get with a 3D picture. This is when it is set up throught the Yamaha receiver.

However, if I connect the HDMI cable directly from the Direct TV receiver to the TV itself, then it works fine like it is supposed to.

Somehow the Yamaha receiver is interfering with the 3D signal from Direct TV or not processing it right.

Has anyone else had this problem or have any idea if there is a solution to this? Although I could just switch the cable back and forth it would be nice to have the Yamaha receiver to work with this set up (for the audio).

I had this exact same problem. I purchased the Yamaha RX-V667 AVR and was disappointed that it would not pass though the HDMI 1.4 correctly. It seems that it is swapping something in the signal and the DirecTV 3D images keep coming up as side-by-side images instead of checkerboard. I have a Mitsubishi WD-73C8 and a DirecTV HR21 Satellite DVR. Although you can manually select it and get it to work, it is a pain and shouldn't require that (it automatically finds the correct format when hooked up directly). Hopefully this is something that Yamaha can fix in firmware.

I returned the Yamaha and purchased a Denon AVR-791. It worked great and passed the DirecTV 3D signals without any issues -- cheaper too. The Denon also worked well with my other remotes (The DirecTV remote turns the Denon AVR on and off fine).

Other than that the received sounded great. I don't like that it does not display the surround codec that is being used on the front of the unit, but it is shown on the on-screen information menu although you have to go two layers deep to find it. The on-screen menus are going to take a while to work out how to efficiently get to what you need.

Chris M.
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post #99 of 3737
8/8/10 at 10:04pm
I just spent the weekend hooking up my RX-V667, replacing my old faithful RX-V2300 as I wanted to go HDMI with all my updated gear. I also "upgraded" my Time Warner Dallas cable/PVR box from a Motorola 3416 to a 3400, as that what my cable provider said was the best they offered. I'm having some issues I hope someone can help me with. I will do a review of the receiver once I get the issues sussed out (and replace a Paradigm monitor that blew up on first use of the wireless iPod dock), as I'm afraid my current frustration will cloud my opiinion. (A CD-ROM MANUAL ONLY-AND I LEFT MY LAPTOP AT WORK!) FYI I was a recording studio engineer up until three years ago-I've engineered a couple of gold records and some Disney soundtrack stuff so I hope my thoughts on that will be worthwhile for the readers here...

My main issue I need help with ASAP: I hooked up the PVR to HDMI 2 in on the 667 and routed the HDMI out to my 60" KDS60a2000 Sony TV via Input 6, the first HDMI. I went into the user settings of the PVR box to configure it to 16:9, HDMI 1080i output, 480i to stretch the screen, etc... Whenever I turn the system on the cable box comes on first, followed by the TV as it needs to warm up. As soon as the TV screen appears after warmup (default to Input 6-the first HDMI), "DVI" appears on the PVR screen for a second, and when the picture appears the PVR front display changes to 480i and the picture isn't full HD. If I power off the PVR and go into menu program mode, the settings have been changed to 4:3 TV, HDMI/DVI output 480i, etc... When I reset the paramaters back to good and power it back on it works fine all day-the picture quality is mind-bogglingly good! But when I turn it off and on again, same problem. Sometimes I can hit the "format" button while the PVR is on and it will change, sometimes I can't. On my previous set up I went component into the TV- should I just do that again and fix this that way? Is the component out quality as good as the HDMI-as I said the picture never looked so good when it's good this way. Thanks in advance for any help.- Mark
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post #100 of 3737
8/9/10 at 5:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by capt.mark View Post

I just spent the weekend hooking up my RX-V667, replacing my old faithful RX-V2300 as I wanted to go HDMI with all my updated gear. I also "upgraded" my Time Warner Dallas cable/PVR box from a Motorola 3416 to a 3400, as that what my cable provider said was the best they offered. I'm having some issues I hope someone can help me with. I will do a review of the receiver once I get the issues sussed out (and replace a Paradigm monitor that blew up on first use of the wireless iPod dock), as I'm afraid my current frustration will cloud my opiinion. (A CD-ROM MANUAL ONLY-AND I LEFT MY LAPTOP AT WORK!) FYI I was a recording studio engineer up until three years ago-I've engineered a couple of gold records and some Disney soundtrack stuff so I hope my thoughts on that will be worthwhile for the readers here...

My main issue I need help with ASAP: I hooked up the PVR to HDMI 2 in on the 667 and routed the HDMI out to my 60" KDS60a2000 Sony TV via Input 6, the first HDMI. I went into the user settings of the PVR box to configure it to 16:9, HDMI 1080i output, 480i to stretch the screen, etc... Whenever I turn the system on the cable box comes on first, followed by the TV as it needs to warm up. As soon as the TV screen appears after warmup (default to Input 6-the first HDMI), "DVI" appears on the PVR screen for a second, and when the picture appears the PVR front display changes to 480i and the picture isn't full HD. If I power off the PVR and go into menu program mode, the settings have been changed to 4:3 TV, HDMI/DVI output 480i, etc... When I reset the paramaters back to good and power it back on it works fine all day-the picture quality is mind-bogglingly good! But when I turn it off and on again, same problem. Sometimes I can hit the "format" button while the PVR is on and it will change, sometimes I can't. On my previous set up I went component into the TV- should I just do that again and fix this that way? Is the component out quality as good as the HDMI-as I said the picture never looked so good when it's good this way. Thanks in advance for any help.- Mark

Mark, this is entirely the fault of the craptaculer Motorola cable box. I too, have a 3400 (Comcast here in Atlanta) & about every 3rd day it goes back to 4:3L (which means 4X3 Lock). You see the cable companies cannot bother to bring their equipment up to date to something that is quite standard in 2010. Namely, the handshaking of HDMI. You will also get the problem, say if you have a PS3 or Blu ray player hooked up via HDMI. Go back to the cable box & it will default to 4:3L

The best "technique" to try is to ALWAYS turn the 3400 on dead last (like 30 seconds at least after everything else has come on) & ALWAYS turn the 3400 off first. As long as you don't "switch" from one component to another it should keep from going into 4:3L

Don't even get me started on so called native mode or horrible Closed-Captioning implementation, sheesh Everyone at Motorala & at the cable companies involved with the release with the abomination that this DVR is should be fired.
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post #101 of 3737
8/9/10 at 4:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by christopher.mile View Post

I had this exact same problem. I purchased the Yamaha RX-V667 AVR and was disappointed that it would not pass though the HDMI 1.4 correctly. It seems that it is swapping something in the signal and the DirecTV 3D images keep coming up as side-by-side images instead of checkerboard. I have a Mitsubishi WD-73C8 and a DirecTV HR21 Satellite DVR. Although you can manually select it and get it to work, it is a pain and shouldn't require that (it automatically finds the correct format when hooked up directly). Hopefully this is something that Yamaha can fix in firmware.

I returned the Yamaha and purchased a Denon AVR-791. It worked great and passed the DirecTV 3D signals without any issues -- cheaper too. The Denon also worked well with my other remotes (The DirecTV remote turns the Denon AVR on and off fine).

Other than that the received sounded great. I don't like that it does not display the surround codec that is being used on the front of the unit, but it is shown on the on-screen information menu although you have to go two layers deep to find it. The on-screen menus are going to take a while to work out how to efficiently get to what you need.

Chris M.

Just wanted to respond to this and f/u on my situation.

I was the one who originally reported the problem with direct TV 3D.
Actually I took the advice of Skooba and looked at the TV settings (not sure why I didn't do this in the 1st place).

I have a Samsung UN 55 C 7000 and went to the MENU and under the options there is a 3D menu. The default setting here is "Off". When I changed it to a setting where there were two stick figures side to side (not sure what this was called), lo and behold, it worked!

So everything now works great with the 3D channels on direct TV, with the Yamaha RX V667. I am very pleased. The content on the direct TV 3D leaves some to be desired but I think it is pretty cool that they even have some content for 3D. Hopefully this might expand in amount and quality in the future.
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post #102 of 3737
8/9/10 at 8:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snacker123 View Post

Just wanted to respond to this and f/u on my situation.

I was the one who originally reported the problem with direct TV 3D.
Actually I took the advice of Skooba and looked at the TV settings (not sure why I didn't do this in the 1st place).

I have a Samsung UN 55 C 7000 and went to the MENU and under the options there is a 3D menu. The default setting here is "Off". When I changed it to a setting where there were two stick figures side to side (not sure what this was called), lo and behold, it worked!

So everything now works great with the 3D channels on direct TV, with the Yamaha RX V667. I am very pleased. The content on the direct TV 3D leaves some to be desired but I think it is pretty cool that they even have some content for 3D. Hopefully this might expand in amount and quality in the future.

Glad to hear you got the 3D working, I was a little worried there. I specifically bought this receiver to get ready for a future 3D upgrade. Hopefully they have some reasonably priced 3D projectors out sometime this year!
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post #103 of 3737
8/9/10 at 11:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lovswr View Post

Mark, this is entirely the fault of the craptaculer Motorola cable box. I too, have a 3400 (Comcast here in Atlanta) & about every 3rd day it goes back to 4:3L (which means 4X3 Lock). You see the cable companies cannot bother to bring their equipment up to date to something that is quite standard in 2010. Namely, the handshaking of HDMI. You will also get the problem, say if you have a PS3 or Blu ray player hooked up via HDMI. Go back to the cable box & it will default to 4:3L

The best "technique" to try is to ALWAYS turn the 3400 on dead last (like 30 seconds at least after everything else has come on) & ALWAYS turn the 3400 off first. As long as you don't "switch" from one component to another it should keep from going into 4:3L

Don't even get me started on so called native mode or horrible Closed-Captioning implementation, sheesh Everyone at Motorala & at the cable companies involved with the release with the abomination that this DVR is should be fired.

So I guess I should cancel my appointment w/ TWC for Wednesday... :-) Thanks for your reply-I'm ass-u-ming using the component outs and not the HDMI s I asked does effect the picture or you would have done it also?? I'm using a LogitechONe so I'll dive into the programming to set up some delays on startup/power down.

In other news, I'm getting used to the 667.. It is not the same build or sound quality as my 2300-it sounds a bit harsh and squeezed compared to it, and the overall feel and look of the controls isn't quite as pro, but I think I can dial it in to be pretty close with the parametric if I fiddle with it another day. (sorry, I don't trust a $20 mic and the auto set up). I miss having ZERO digital outputs, no phono section, no switchable AC outlets on the unit. I do realize the price difference between the 667 and the 2300 was @ 150% if I remember right. The many positives are that the 667 has full pre outs, so I "could" get my accuphase and perreaux power amps our of storage, but that's not the point of this...so says my wife. :-) The tuner is noticably better on the 667, and the onscreen GUI is pretty intuitive and helpful if rather basic looking. And the myriad of modern inputs (Dock, Sirrius, HDMI) for the $ is hard to beat.

Of course the day after I got the 667 I see where Yamaha is coming out with the 1000/2000/3000. But in looking up the specs on the site, you've got to go to the 2000 to get significantly more features, and it's well over twice the $. The 3000 is not an apples to apples comparison. I get USB and wi-fi with my BluRay. Considering the weight and power specs are very similiar 2000/667 I'm doubting the power amp design is much different. Overall I'm happy and I would buy it again, especially after finding out the PVR is my issue...
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post #104 of 3737
8/10/10 at 5:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by capt.mark View Post

I'm ass-u-ming using the component outs and not the HDMI s I asked does effect the picture or you would have done it also??

If you still have trouble with HDMI I would try component. The picture quality should be virtually the same (I know it is on my RX-V1800, where I use component because of a broken HDMI output on my HD cable box).

BTW, since you have the 667 can you help answer the question posted here. i.e. do you see the volume on the TV every time you change it, and can it be disabled?
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post #105 of 3737
8/11/10 at 1:07am
I see no way of turning it off- I can see where it could be annoying-it's very closed-caption looking on the 667. To answer another person's question here as well, the gain structure on the 667 is about 15 db less than on my V2300; meaning a -15 db setting on the 667 is about the same volume output as -30db was on my V2300 on the same speakers. I don't sense it as being a true power issue but the illusion is there if you've come from an older Yamaha model, especially when it feels like the 667 is trying harder on the sound quality.

So it's 3am and I've read about 100 weblinks about component verses HDMI, and I've read about handshake issues-a couple of places siggested a $35 Monoprice switcher, others suggested re-assigning HDMI inputs on their A/V receivers fixed the problem. I cancelled my TWC appointment for tomorrow. Does anyone have direct knowledge of the Motorola 3400 component verses HDMI picture quality? My Sony only goes 1080i and honestly I'm loving the picture when all the HDMI stars are aligned. I hate to have to rig a hidden box to make this work or type out two pages of instructions for guests and my wife to get the #$%#$ thing to do what it should, but I'm in it to win it so any help has been and will be greatly appreciated!
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post #106 of 3737
8/12/10 at 10:20am
quick question for you guys.

Are you playing lossless audio on your 667?

If so, what method are you using to transport the media to the AVR (Blu ray, DVD, USB, WiFi)? And what format (FLAC, Apple lossless, WMA, other)?

Thanks.
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post #107 of 3737
8/18/10 at 1:35am
So my 663 is acting a bit strange and I'm in the hunt to get it replaced under warranty. I'm praying they have a 663 stored in a box somewhere they can just hand me because save the 3D and HDMI 1.4 - I don't have a need to upgrade.

The question ? Would any of you as of yet trade your 663's for the 667 ?

Also, any word on the HDMI Overlay On / Off toggle for the Volume ? I really can't do closed caption titles haha. Also, does the front panel have display information for TrueHD, DTS, etc etc ?
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post #108 of 3737
8/18/10 at 10:31pm
So you can display Surround Codec on the display panel and the volume overlay isn't really bad at all. Damn I love this receiver so far, more impressions as I play around.
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post #109 of 3737
8/19/10 at 5:48am
Will this receiver show it's volume level on my tv screen when I adjust it?
I will be using only HDMI connections and the receiver won't be visible in the tv room so it would be nice to see the level adjustments.

Thanks
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post #110 of 3737
8/19/10 at 7:37pm
For reference ;




And it lasts maybe a second and a half. If that. I actually don't mind it and really I can see how some want the option to turn it off, but it's a non issue being as it's not nearly intrusive as some overlays from other AVR's, BD players and STB's,
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post #111 of 3737
8/20/10 at 3:38am
Hi folks,

I picked up a 667 this week to replace my nine year old RX-V620. Chalk and cheese - the surround stage actually exists now and the center channel isn't muddy anymore. Huzzah!

Now for some weird stuff. When taking a Dolby TrueHD source, the "Info" overlay screen always says "TrueHD". However, when taking a DTS-HD Master source, the Info overlay only says "DTS-HD Master" if the amp is in "Straight" (no sound field) mode. As soon as I activate a sound field, such as "Sci-Fi" or anything else, the Info overlay only says "DTS" and shows the 1536Kbs bitrate associated with it.

So, does anyone know if the amp is *really* dropping back into regular DTS (i.e. downmixing to DTS) or if it's just a display error?
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post #112 of 3737
8/20/10 at 3:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmercer3 View Post

quick question for you guys.

Are you playing lossless audio on your 667?

If so, what method are you using to transport the media to the AVR (Blu ray, DVD, USB, WiFi)? And what format (FLAC, Apple lossless, WMA, other)?

Yes, and I'm using HDMI for all digital audio sources. My AV source is a Windows 7 Media Center PC with an ATI Radeon 5570 video card which supports HDCP Protected Audio Path. I use ArcSoft TotalMedia Theatre Blu-Ray software. The software and the ATI video card with HDMI connectivity allows both TrueHD and DTS-HD Master Audio.
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post #113 of 3737
8/20/10 at 6:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaldek View Post

Now for some weird stuff. When taking a Dolby TrueHD source, the "Info" overlay screen always says "TrueHD". However, when taking a DTS-HD Master source, the Info overlay only says "DTS-HD Master" if the amp is in "Straight" (no sound field) mode. As soon as I activate a sound field, such as "Sci-Fi" or anything else, the Info overlay only says "DTS" and shows the 1536Kbs bitrate associated with it.

So, does anyone know if the amp is *really* dropping back into regular DTS (i.e. downmixing to DTS) or if it's just a display error?

The manual says the "DTS decoder" will be selected when "Cinema DSP" is used with DTS HD, so apparently it is dropping back to regular DTS.
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post #114 of 3737
8/20/10 at 6:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by spturtle View Post

The manual says the "DTS decoder" will be selected when "Cinema DSP" is used with DTS HD, so apparently it is dropping back to regular DTS.

Ah, I thought that might be the case. For anyone curious, I confirmed this is on page 41 of the English manual.

I'm not sure what this means though. Are we sacrificing quality becase the DTS decoder is not powerful enough to apply a sound field to a DTS-HD Master source, or is it just that the display has no intelligent means of telling you it's still processing it as high bitrate but showing 1536Kb/s?

So basically it's either:
  • DTS-HD-->Downmix to DTS--->soundfield; OR
  • DTS-HD-->soundfield (but show DTS on the Information screen)

Anyone know if there is some measurable way of finding out?
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post #115 of 3737
8/20/10 at 8:15pm
There's no "downmix" from DTS-MA to DTS. It's a simple matter of playing only the DTS core. The core is 1.5M, so that's your answer.
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post #116 of 3737
8/20/10 at 10:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by kaldek View Post

. . . Are we sacrificing quality because the DTS decoder is not powerful enough to apply a sound field to a DTS-HD Master source, . . . ?

The effect of a CinemaDSP soundfield on either a DTS-HDMA track or on the corresponding (1536Kbs) DTS core is probably(?) several orders more significant/audible than any difference between the "un post processed" DTS-HDMA and DTS core soundtracks. When you have four effects channels adding what amounts to 'random bits' to the soundtrack playback, the issue of whether the source was 'bit identical' to the original studio soundtrack . . . or just a very good lossy approximation . . . just doesn't seem that important...?!

Plus, I'm guessing the extra processing load for CinemaDSP would necessitate disabling any (optional!) DTS-HDMA speaker remapping . . . requiring use of the 5.1 downmix (rather than any available 7.1 mix). And without the need to handle speaker remapping the value of DTS-HDMA (vs. DTS lossy core) becomes problematic...?!
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post #117 of 3737
8/21/10 at 4:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdgrimes View Post

There's no "downmix" from DTS-MA to DTS. It's a simple matter of playing only the DTS core. The core is 1.5M, so that's your answer.

Right, so when I force my player to send the DTS-HD Master Audio stream, this includes the original DTS stream and Master Audio Stream.

Checking on TrueHD, it appears that it doesn't do this - it's just the losssless stream. So maybe Yamaha just took a shortcut and decided to apply soundfields to the DTS-Core stream because it takes less processing grunt to do so?
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post #118 of 3737
8/21/10 at 4:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundChex View Post

Plus, I'm guessing the extra processing load for CinemaDSP would necessitate disabling any (optional!) DTS-HDMA speaker remapping . . . requiring use of the 5.1 downmix (rather than any available 7.1 mix). And without the need to handle speaker remapping the value of DTS-HDMA (vs. DTS lossy core) becomes problematic...?!

Your theory seems to be the best one so far!

As for not hearing the difference, I tend to agree. I'm not a traditional audiophile - I'm an IT guy - so when people say they can hear the difference between the lossless audio stream and the lossy stream, I am extremely sceptical. Our ears and brains are the most crappy and unreliable link in the chain.

P.S. The recent story of some HiFi magazine hack saying he could hear the difference in audio quality streamed from his NAS box just by changing the SATA cables on his NAS drives was a classic example of the trash that gets published in this industry. When the IT folks called him on it, he shut down the comments on his blog and went to ground.
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post #119 of 3737
8/23/10 at 2:10pm
So I have had the 667 for about a month and was just wondering what you guys think of pure direct? Seems like it would make for the best playback because it would be the most natural; how the maker of the audio and/or video would have wanted you to see and/or hear the content.
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post #120 of 3737
8/23/10 at 2:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by PBergeronNH View Post

So I have had the 667 for about a month and was just wondering what you guys think of pure direct? Seems like it would make for the best playback because it would be the most natural; how the maker of the audio and/or video would have wanted you to see and/or hear the content.

Pure Direct only really applies to audio, as you see the video untouched anyway. If you have great speakers and a great room (acoustically), then Pure Direct can make sense. But the majority of people need some kind of digital processing to make up for the deficiencies in their system. For example, they need bass management to send low bass to the subwoofer, and EQ to compensate for the non-flat response of speakers or room.
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