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2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 59

post #1741 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Blackburn View Post

No, not all 3D requires 3D source material. For at least 2 years, there has been PC software available that converts 2D to 3D.

I was doing this with a CRT monitor back in 2002. It's been around for a while. It was crummy back then, but when it worked, it was really nice.
post #1742 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by taichi4 View Post

These articles describes Universal 3D glasses that work with any set and any 3D scheme.

http://gizmodo.com/5495236/xpands-un...s-are-charging

http://www.pocket-lint.com/news/3550...lasses-preview

You can also go to the company's website
www.xpandcinema.com

taichi4

Thanks for the info, it is nice to see manufacturers going for a more universal solution for 3D glasses. Now if only their prices would drop more quickly!

The reason I was asking if anyone here has compared the Mitsubishi glasses and emitter with DLP Link glasses on 2010 Mitsubishis is because I am concerned about which solution will result in best black levels and overall best 3D picture quality while reducing green tinting that I have heard about.

It is pretty clear to me after reading the 3D forums that 2007-2009 Mitsubishi models should use DLP Link glasses, but it is not clear to me yet the best route for 2010 Mitsubishis and thus my question here on if anyone with a 2010 model has compared both types.
post #1743 of 8689
So has anyone gotten their free 3D starter kit from the promotion yet? I'm approved, but it hasn't shipped yet.
post #1744 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xerobull View Post

I was doing this with a CRT monitor back in 2002. It's been around for a while. It was crummy back then, but when it worked, it was really nice.

I believe the reason why "upconversions" worked pretty well in 3-D gaming on PCs is that game programmers are essentially putting 3-D information into games which allows the environment around the player to change in a realistic way, with fluid changes of perspective, even though it's shown in 2-D on the display. So the information is really there in a sense and can be accessed in a new way through 3-D technology.

So companies like eDimensional offered 3-D gaming on PCs for a number of years with their shutter glasses and well engineered software. I always wanted to play the PC game Mafia in 3-D, since it's remarkable in 2D. Never did it.

taichi4
post #1745 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

So has anyone gotten their free 3D starter kit from the promotion yet? I'm approved, but it hasn't shipped yet.

I thought you said you got your 73738 from pauls on 9/12.

I also got my 73738 from pauls, but on 9/16.

Since I thought this free 3D starter kit was for purchases between 9/24 and 11/21 I would love to hear how you got approved so I can maybe as well!
post #1746 of 8689
Amp,

I've sent mine in even though the dates are not in compliance. Just to see if it works.

The reality is there is a reason why these kits are being given away.

1. IF they were selling like hotcakes we'd not see any kind of rebate give away.

2. IF 3D was catching on like wild fire we'd not see any kind of rebate give away.

This looks like an attempt to create market momentum.

If so their interest is more about getting 3D products "out there" than splitting hairs on a date of purchase.

I figured why not give it a shot?
post #1747 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmiddleton4 View Post

Amp,

I've sent mine in even though the dates are not in compliance. Just to see if it works.

I figured why not give it a shot?

Interesting. And it got approved?

I got mine on 9/30 so I'm totally legit but maybe I should try this out for that other promo. The one that works for 10/10 people. I wouldn't mind getting 2 more glasses and wireless adapter...

Are you going to be trying for that one too?
post #1748 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by capra1628 View Post

Received call-back from MITS in regard to my HDMI input problem (see earlier post #1393). Was told it was decided to send me the latest f/w update 12.05 in the hopes that it will correct the problem. If it doesn't, we will go from there. Could be up to a week before I receive it (on a flashdrive). So, they do call back, and glad they are making an effort to get to a solution. Will get back here with the results, good or bad. It may be just a process of elimination.

Received flash drive yesterday. Installed s/w update; it was 12.04 instead of 12.05 as expected (my s/w ver. was 12.02). Turned the TV on today...the new s/w ver. 12.04 did not correct my HDMI input problems (but OK after a system reset as usual). So another call to MITS. They are going to send another flash drive with ver. 12.05. It seems the one they sent me was supposed to be 12.05, but I'm no longer sure of anything anymore. Anyway, hoping the 12.05 will work a miracle, as I'm well pleased with the TV otherwise.
post #1749 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by taichi4 View Post

I believe the reason why "upconversions" worked pretty well in 3-D gaming on PCs is that game programmers are essentially putting 3-D information into games which allows the environment around the player to change in a realistic way, with fluid changes of perspective, even though it's shown in 2-D on the display. So the information is really there in a sense and can be accessed in a new way through 3-D technology.

So companies like eDimensional offered 3-D gaming on PCs for a number of years with their shutter glasses and well engineered software. I always wanted to play the PC game Mafia in 3-D, since it's remarkable in 2D. Never did it.

taichi4

You nailed it...and I did have some eDimensional glasses as well. It was flaky but cool when I got it to work. I think the only game that worked 100% for me was the Spiderman game that was based on the first movie.
post #1750 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xerobull View Post

You nailed it...and I did have some eDimensional glasses as well. It was flaky but cool when I got it to work. I think the only game that worked 100% for me was the Spiderman game that was based on the first movie.

If you haven't tried Mafia...a game made 10 years ago by inspired Czech animators/programmers...you should, and dust off those eDimesional glasses. The game would be unbelievable in 3D.

Regarding DLP and 3D TV, DLP is still the best way to go
according to an article I read yesterday comparing the best LCDs and Plasmas for 3D. That's why Mits is giving away 3D equipment..to create 3D awareness and point people to the best 3D solution, which is DLP despite the usual off axis viewing issues.

If I find the article I'll post the link.

taichi4
post #1751 of 8689
nicholc2, when will you be willing to post all of your settings? Ii know a few pages back you gave a few but wanted to wait a little longer for things to settle.
post #1752 of 8689
Yeah,
please post your settings if you are willing. This way I can semi-calibrate mine until I get a full calibration.

Thanks!

Jason
post #1753 of 8689
I am glad I found this forum, I am in a catch 22.....Projector or 82' Mit DLP

I have a dedicated HT new build but I have kids and we wouldnt just use the HT for movies only so the DLP is getting more positives.

any suggestions
post #1754 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by hifinerd View Post

nicholc2, when will you be willing to post all of your settings? Ii know a few pages back you gave a few but wanted to wait a little longer for things to settle.

Patience is a virtue.
post #1755 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by bottsjw View Post

Ok, was finally able to track down my tripod and took the following geometry shot. Does this seem normal?

Also, I've noticed we have a frequent amount of heat expansion noise. Basically the cabinet pops as the unit warms up and cools down. Is this normal? Suggestions on how to reduce it?


Yours looks better than mine did out of the box. Both right and left corners were bowed up pretty good on mine and the 4:3 lines still have a bow at the bottom that I cannot adjust out. Yours looks very correctable with a few tweaks.
post #1756 of 8689
So I just received my 73838 today and love the thing, but I have a question about dust.

At first I just played with the tv's settings and 3D in awe, but then I decided to get analytical and inspect the screen up close. I noticed a few spots closer to the edge that appeared under the screen and looked like dust. This was nothing I would notice from a normal distance, even from 6' or so, but up close it is there.

Is that common? Does it get worse?

Oh, and also, how do you update the firmware on it or even know what firmware it is running on?

Thanks in advance!
post #1757 of 8689
Well, here's one for the books.

The first time I'd seen the 82838 at one Paul's I felt the set suffered greatly in off axis viewing. On a hunch I went to another Paul's, and this 82838 seemed sharper, and much less sensitive to changes in vertical viewing.

Moreover the picture was sharp while watching Blu-Ray without edge sharpness and other enhancements.

I wonder, though, why so many AV retailers place their displays at such a disadvantage with respect to lighting. As we know, DLP rear projectors "don't get no love," and they are often placed quite awkwardly.

I wish that there were some expert or industry reviews of these units.

taichi4
post #1758 of 8689
Here are my geometry pics. I don't think the pictures show it as well as seeing it in 73" from 10' away, but you can still see the inward bowing toward the center. One pic is the new iphone commercial for the new iphone hourglass model. One is a shot from a PS3 game called Heavy Rain. Those boxes with the video should all be square. And lastly is of course the geometry menu.

I am going to get it exchanged for a combination of the geometry issues and also the fact that I have the HDMI bug (had to reset it 5 times in 10 days). I am just really worried now that I will end up with a set just as bad or worse. I don't have a lot of faith in those flimsy screens.
LL
LL
LL
post #1759 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith_G View Post

Here are my geometry pics. I don't think the pictures show it as well as seeing it in 73" from 10' away, but you can still see the inward bowing toward the center. One pic is the new iphone commercial for the new iphone hourglass model. One is a shot from a PS3 game called Heavy Rain. Those boxes with the video should all be square. And lastly is of course the geometry menu.

I am going to get it exchanged for a combination of the geometry issues and also the fact that I have the HDMI bug (had to reset it 5 times in 10 days). I am just really worried now that I will end up with a set just as bad or worse. I don't have a lot of faith in those flimsy screens.


That's just about what mine looks like. I can tell you, if you are happy with the picture quality, don't swap it out. I did, and the picture on the second one was not as sharp, now I am out of luck as there is nothing "technically" wrong with it. I now wish I had kept the first one.

Is that out of the box, or have you adjusted the geometry?
post #1760 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tulsa62 View Post

That's just about what mine looks like. I can tell you, if you are happy with the picture quality, don't swap it out. I did, and the picture on the second one was not as sharp, now I am out of luck as there is nothing "technically" wrong with it. I now wish I had kept the first one.

Is that out of the box, or have you adjusted the geometry?

That's out of the box but looking at the geometry menu there would be no way to adjust the real problem with the geometry which is in the center 1/3 of the screen. It appears the screen is caved in in the center. I almost feel like if I could put a suction cup on the screen and pull out it would straighten that portion of the screen.

I don't notice the geometry issue in most cases but there are some times when it really sticks out. I was watching something where someone had opened a door and from the left the door was bowed one direction and as they opened the door towards the right it bowed the other direction. It looked really unnatural.

Keeping it had crossed my mind but with the HDMI issue I am having I don't really want to take a chance. I haven't had to reset it now in 3 days but it has locked up enough to be a real concern.

Have you posted pics of yours?
post #1761 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith_G View Post

That's out of the box but looking at the geometry menu there would be no way to adjust the real problem with the geometry which is in the center 1/3 of the screen. It appears the screen is caved in in the center. I almost feel like if I could put a suction cup on the screen and pull out it would straighten that portion of the screen.

I don't notice the geometry issue in most cases but there are some times when it really sticks out. I was watching something where someone had opened a door and from the left the door was bowed one direction and as they opened the door towards the right it bowed the other direction. It looked really unnatural.

Keeping it had crossed my mind but with the HDMI issue I am having I don't really want to take a chance. I haven't had to reset it now in 3 days but it has locked up enough to be a real concern.

Have you posted pics of yours?

No, it was worse than yours. I had to pull the top corners down, the yellow lines on both sides in (they were bowed to the outside) and the bottom right up. I managed to get everything evened up pretty well except the 4:3 lines which are pretty close to yours.
post #1762 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tulsa62 View Post

That's just about what mine looks like. I can tell you, if you are happy with the picture quality, don't swap it out. I did, and the picture on the second one was not as sharp, now I am out of luck as there is nothing "technically" wrong with it. I now wish I had kept the first one.

Is that out of the box, or have you adjusted the geometry?

Your comment about the second set not being as sharp, dovetails into my experience seeing the 82838 at two different Paul's TVs locations. One looked sharp and tolerant to off axis viewing, and one looked less sharp and noticeably dim off the vertical midpoint.

There does seem to be a variation of these units even within the same model.

Curious.

taichi4
post #1763 of 8689
Do the 82" sets have the same geometry and bowing problems as the 73" do? Just wondering since I know they use different screens.
post #1764 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darth Indy View Post

Do the 82" sets have the same geometry and bowing problems as the 73" do? Just wondering since I know they use different screens.

I'm pretty sure they have it worse. It comes with the size.
post #1765 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickoakdl View Post

I'm pretty sure they have it worse. It comes with the size.

I don't know about the 2010 specifically as the screen is different but the screen on the 2009 82" is much stiffer as is the chassis of the 82 versus the 73. Of course the 82 is much dimmer than a 73 so it will be more at the mercy of ambient lighting and viewing angles.

In 2008 I bought a 73" Mits 73735 and returned it because of the extreme sag of the screen it bowed out and there was no way you could have the center be even reasonably sharp if the corners were sharp. Using an HTPC the text in much of the middle of the screen was unreadable. You could push the screen in with your hand and it would get sharp. I bought a Samsung and the difference was night and day. Odd part the Samsung chassis was even more wiggly than the Mits but the screen was flat and it works well with an HTPC.

On the 2009 and I would guess the 2010 Mits the 82" chassis is at least twice if not 3 times as stiff as the 73...
post #1766 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by armaraas View Post

Ok, since this seems to be coming up a bit lately, wondering if people would care to indulge me...
Does anyone have a tv stand over 20"? If so, how high, and what model tv? Normal seated eye height (37"-42"), or is your seat on a riser or anything? And do you consider your view of the tv great, acceptable, or you need to make adjustments? And how far back are you viewing the tv from?

Or for people with stands not over 20", how high is your stand, eye height normal range/riser involved, how do you consider your view of the tv, and how far back are you viewing the tv from?

I have a BDI Avion II stand that is 22.5", and is just about perfect for my Samsung 61". Since I didn't buy the 67" and have now moved to a new room going from about 8' viewing distance to about 12', I'm thinking about upgading to something a bit bigger. I'd like to get the 73" or 82" Mits DLP, but now thinking they're not going to work for me because of the viewing angle and the stand being too tall. The 65" might be about all that will work. Just looking for some feedback on what other people currently have/use and how it's working out for them. Thanks for your time...

I have the 82838 with a custom made 18" high stand. Viewing distance is 12' and eye level about 40". My eye level is about 4" under the center of the screen but I notice no viewing or lighting issues. The picture looks amazing to me.
post #1767 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd_zilla View Post

Hi guys,

Hoping to get some help here... To set a little background, I'm a big fan of the DLP image. I personally prefer DLP. I have a DLP projector in my home theater, but this post is about my living room. I currently have a 50" 720P plasma that I am thinking of replacing based on a desire to go bigger and add 3D capability. Vertical height and wall hanging issues do not apply to my situation (I can set the tv at any height I desire). I am a long time DirecTv customer and NFL Sunday Ticket subscriber. Watch a ton of movies (albeit usually in the theater) and a lot of sports. I do some wii gaming for a little fun and exercise, but not what I'd call a "gamer" by any stretch. 3D and Playstation Move may introduce a PS3 into the mix.

I'm considering one of the 738/838 units for my living room (either the 73" or 82"), but am not sure a DLP tv is the best "fit" for my situation. The tv will sit in the corner of the room and will have people seated and watching from 45 degrees off center to both the left and right. Is this an acceptable range of off center viewing for these DLP TVs?

The primary viewing positions are 15 feet from the tv and the room is open to the kitchen area which is an additional 10 - 15 feet on top of that.

Just to clarify my understanding, unlike Sony and Samsung, the Mitsubishi tvs can only display content that is formatted in 3D, correct? In other words, all 3 manufacturers can display 3D source content, but the Sony and Samsung sets can convert 2D material into simulated 3D material, while the Mitsubishi cannot. Is this correct?

The logical side of my brain tells me that it is too early to jump into 3D yet, but the football fanatic in me would love to start watching some 3D football... but I'm not sure there will be any 3D football to watch if I go with the Mitsubishi. The DirecTv 3D channels, while a great start, seem to be pretty limited in content, so if I can't convert 2D to simulated 3D, then there won't be a whole lot to watch in 3D.

If I don't go with a DLP set, then it will likely be an LED set, which limits my size to 65" max for a Samsung, and at a hefty price tag for an "emerging" 3D technology. The relative low cost of increasing my screen size and getting into 3D with a DLP is attractive. I guess I could go with a 73" 738 series relatively inexpensively and have a 1080P/significant screen size upgrade with limited 3D capability... then look at replacing the unit in 5 years or so once the 3D revolution has stabilized... Or I could just stay put with what I have for a while.

Suggestions? Answers? Input?

Thanks in advance guys...

ESPN3D broadcasts a college football game every week in true 3D which is pretty amazing to watch. They just anounced that the Oregon/UCLA game on Thursday Oct 21 will also be in 3D. I get ESPN3D through Comcast here in Oregon. Go Ducks!
post #1768 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickoakdl View Post

So I just received my 73838 today and love the thing, but I have a question about dust.

At first I just played with the tv's settings and 3D in awe, but then I decided to get analytical and inspect the screen up close. I noticed a few spots closer to the edge that appeared under the screen and looked like dust. This was nothing I would notice from a normal distance, even from 6' or so, but up close it is there.

Is that common? Does it get worse?

Oh, and also, how do you update the firmware on it or even know what firmware it is running on?

Thanks in advance!

Bumping myself for any info?
post #1769 of 8689
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollo Slumber View Post

I am glad I found this forum, I am in a catch 22.....Projector or 82' Mit DLP

I have a dedicated HT new build but I have kids and we wouldnt just use the HT for movies only so the DLP is getting more positives.

any suggestions

One question you have to ask yourself is whether you want the kids constantly in your HT... Many times, I imagine, without you in there with them. The other question is what other options do you have for the kids to play? I have a dedicated HT with a pj set up. 106" of high definition glory... Hard to beat the pj experience for movie watching in a completely controlled environment with 7.1 surround and blu ray. Just watched Iron Man 2 last night and it was FAR better than a commercial movie theater given my sound equipment and immersion into the screen size. A front projector experience is really special when done right. But an 82" tv ain't bad and would be far more flexible for gaming, having the lights on, etc.

I assume the kids would want to play games, which is a bit tricky with a pj because of the light path of the projected image if they want to stand up like to play wii or playstation move. I do gaming on my living room set primarily for this reason.
post #1770 of 8689
Palm..

"approved"?

I don't know yet. Just sent them in.
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