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2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 60

post #1771 of 8689
10/14/10 at 6:32am
"Do the 82" sets have the same geometry and bowing problems as the 73" do?"

That reads to me like a bit of an overstatement. Folks who have a set that requires geometry adjustments does not then equal 73 inch sets have geometry problems.
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post #1772 of 8689
10/14/10 at 6:35am
Keith...

Your geometry needs to be adjusted. The inward bowing is addressed with the 4:3 adjustments. I can make my set look just like yours if I wanted. It also looks to me like the 1080p lines, the adjustments using the red lines that go across the screen left to right, need to be adjusted.

Did you look for, find and download the service manual and the directions for adjusting the geometry?
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post #1773 of 8689
10/14/10 at 6:37am
capra....

Same thing happened to another user. He called back and MIT sent him 12.05.
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post #1774 of 8689
10/14/10 at 7:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmiddleton4 View Post

Keith...

Your geometry needs to be adjusted. The inward bowing is addressed with the 4:3 adjustments. I can make my set look just like yours if I wanted. It also looks to me like the 1080p lines, the adjustments using the red lines that go across the screen left to right, need to be adjusted.

Did you look for, find and download the service manual and the directions for adjusting the geometry?

The only link I found with the service manual was a dead link. The other instructions I found were from various posts but I didn't see a way to change adjustment modes besides just using FF to move the adjustment points. I had no problem with the horizontal lines at all, just vertical in the center 1/3 is where it is the worst.

At this point it is probably too late to cancel the replacement anyway and there still is the issue with the HDMI ports locking up. Hopefully I will get a set with no HDMI problems and at least as good of geometry, if not better.
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post #1775 of 8689
10/14/10 at 9:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by AmpBlast View Post

Thanks for the info, it is nice to see manufacturers going for a more universal solution for 3D glasses. Now if only their prices would drop more quickly!

The reason I was asking if anyone here has compared the Mitsubishi glasses and emitter with DLP Link glasses on 2010 Mitsubishis is because I am concerned about which solution will result in best black levels and overall best 3D picture quality while reducing green tinting that I have heard about.

It is pretty clear to me after reading the 3D forums that 2007-2009 Mitsubishi models should use DLP Link glasses, but it is not clear to me yet the best route for 2010 Mitsubishis and thus my question here on if anyone with a 2010 model has compared both types.

The xPand X102s are the non universal version from that company, and they are supposed to provide an unusually bright image due to the faster shutter response...their technology is called pi-cell.

Since I have not yet bought a Mits DLP I can't give a personal review, but if you look at some of the reviews (a number of Mits owners) on Amazon and elsewhere the response seems positive. Downside seems to be somewhat short range as well as a non standard battery. But the glasses turn themselves on automatically when 3D is engaged, and off when 3D is disengaged.

taichi4
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post #1776 of 8689
10/14/10 at 9:40am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith_G View Post

The only link I found with the service manual was a dead link. The other instructions I found were from various posts but I didn't see a way to change adjustment modes besides just using FF to move the adjustment points. I had no problem with the horizontal lines at all, just vertical in the center 1/3 is where it is the worst.

At this point it is probably too late to cancel the replacement anyway and there still is the issue with the HDMI ports locking up. Hopefully I will get a set with no HDMI problems and at least as good of geometry, if not better.

Try this for last years service manual:
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=QCUXEEP0
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post #1777 of 8689
10/14/10 at 10:22am
"Hopefully I will get a set with no HDMI problems and at least as good of geometry, if not better."

Lets hope so. However my guess is even the new set's geometry will need some tweaking.

Probably unrealistic to assume with shipping, handling, etc., that it will be spot on once you put it in its new home.
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post #1778 of 8689
10/14/10 at 10:58am
I went home for lunch today and had to reset my television again so I think exchanging it was probably the right thing to do, even if I could have straightened out the geometry. That's 6 times in less than 2 weeks that I had to reset it.

Thanks for the link. It makes a lot more sense now having read the complete instructions directly from the service manual.
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post #1779 of 8689
10/14/10 at 11:08am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickoakdl View Post

So I just received my 73838 today and love the thing, but I have a question about dust.

At first I just played with the tv's settings and 3D in awe, but then I decided to get analytical and inspect the screen up close. I noticed a few spots closer to the edge that appeared under the screen and looked like dust. This was nothing I would notice from a normal distance, even from 6' or so, but up close it is there.

Is that common? Does it get worse?

Oh, and also, how do you update the firmware on it or even know what firmware it is running on?

Thanks in advance!

Anyone?
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post #1780 of 8689
10/14/10 at 11:31am
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickoakdl View Post

Anyone?

I noticed a couple of spots when I had my face inches from the screen also. I don't know if it gets any worse. I believe the screen is actually 2 pieces sandwiched together (that's how it used to be) so those spots may be in between.

To check the software version just hit menu and look in the lower left hand corner. To update just hook it up to the Internet. That's all I had to do and mine updated.
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post #1781 of 8689
10/14/10 at 11:35am
Just received firmware version 12.05 from Mits. I will isntal it tonight and see what happens.
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post #1782 of 8689
10/14/10 at 1:15pm
So please help me get this straight guys... the primary differences between the 838 and the 738 are the learning remote and speaker array, correct? The 638 is a completely different beast with older technology processing and no internet capability, correct? i'm focusing on the 73" models, btw...
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post #1783 of 8689
10/14/10 at 1:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd_zilla View Post

So please help me get this straight guys... the primary differences between the 838 and the 738 are the learning remote and speaker array, correct? The 638 is a completely different beast with older technology processing and no internet capability, correct? i'm focusing on the 73" models, btw...

You can compare the models on the Mitsubishi TV site. Here's a link that compares the 73" 838, 738, 638 and the C10 TVs.

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/compari...&comp4=WD73C10
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post #1784 of 8689
10/14/10 at 2:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lyqtix View Post

You can compare the models on the Mitsubishi TV site. Here's a link that compares the 73" 838, 738, 638 and the C10 TVs.

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/compari...&comp4=WD73C10

Thanks Lyqtix, I have done that and that's where I got my questions from.

Some examples...

They don't come out and say, "While of the same line for this year, the 638 has inferior internal processing..." They say the 638 has Plush 1080p video processing while saying the 838/738 has Plush 1080p 5GB 12-Bit video processing"...

I still don't know what "step up" means that they list for the 738 and 838...

They call the 838 and 738 "3DTV" while calling the 638 "3D Ready" - not sure what that implies...

The 838 has "Dark Detailer" - have no idea what that really is and I probably won't use it anyway...

The 838 offers bluetooth audio streaming, which is worthless to me...

The 838 has side inputs... That could come in handy, but I wish they were on the front behind a panel...

The 738 and 838 both say "universal" remotes, but the 838 lists IR Learning under user controls...

They just describe things differently, which leaves one to wonder... and why I ask here in the experts playground.
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post #1785 of 8689
10/14/10 at 2:40pm
And I can't really tell a lick of difference between the 638 and the C10... Which makes me wonder what they have these two separate lines unless this a marketing channel issue...
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post #1786 of 8689
10/14/10 at 2:55pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd_zilla View Post

Thanks Lyqtix, I have done that and that's where I got my questions from.

Some examples...

They don't come out and say, "While of the same line for this year, the 638 has inferior internal processing..." They say the 638 has Plush 1080p video processing while saying the 838/738 has Plush 1080p 5GB 12-Bit video processing"...

I still don't know what "step up" means that they list for the 738 and 838...

They call the 838 and 738 "3DTV" while calling the 638 "3D Ready" - not sure what that implies...

The 838 has "Dark Detailer" - have no idea what that really is and I probably won't use it anyway...

The 838 offers bluetooth audio streaming, which is worthless to me...

The 838 has side inputs... That could come in handy, but I wish they were on the front behind a panel...

The 738 and 838 both say "universal" remotes, but the 838 lists IR Learning under user controls...

They just describe things differently, which leaves one to wonder... and why I ask here in the experts playground.

Plush 1080p 5GB 12-bit means that all sources will be upscaled better for a better image.

Dark Detailer means much better blacks and better contrast which helps make the overall picture better.

Of course on the 838 you get the 16 speaker array, which can be used as a center channel In your home theater. I am

738 and 838 are "3D TV's" because they will be firmware updated to accept all 3D formats natively without the 3D converter.
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post #1787 of 8689
10/14/10 at 3:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd_zilla View Post

One question you have to ask yourself is whether you want the kids constantly in your HT... Many times, I imagine, without you in there with them. The other question is what other options do you have for the kids to play? I have a dedicated HT with a pj set up. 106" of high definition glory... Hard to beat the pj experience for movie watching in a completely controlled environment with 7.1 surround and blu ray. Just watched Iron Man 2 last night and it was FAR better than a commercial movie theater given my sound equipment and immersion into the screen size. A front projector experience is really special when done right. But an 82" tv ain't bad and would be far more flexible for gaming, having the lights on, etc.

I assume the kids would want to play games, which is a bit tricky with a pj because of the light path of the projected image if they want to stand up like to play wii or playstation move. I do gaming on my living room set primarily for this reason.

Thanks for the reply,

The kids have a seperate game room of their own to play games on. I too will have 7.1 surround sound. Well you just made my mind up, thanks
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post #1788 of 8689
10/14/10 at 3:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollo Slumber View Post

Thanks for the reply,

The kids have a seperate game room of their own to play games on. I too will have 7.1 surround sound. Well you just made my mind up, thanks

No problem bro... That's what we're here for, to help a fellow "enthusiast" out...

All kidding aside (pardon the pun - kids), hope you and your family enjoy the new HT... Doing it DIY or having someone build it for you?
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post #1789 of 8689
10/14/10 at 3:19pm
Are the jacks located on the rear (facing rear) or on the right hand side (facing right). The information in various places is not at all clear on this. One picture has an obvious indication of the rear (at the right hand side) another shows that it's actually at the right hand side. I'm hoping for the latter as moving the 150+ lbs set is not an option without outside help (unit too heavy for wife) after it's installed.

82838 and 73838 owners, please let me know where the connector panel actually is at. Thanks!

Oh, very unimportant but if anyone happens to know I'd love to hear the answer: What exactly is the operating voltage and frequency requirement of the unit? Is the old time CRT 120V/60Hz requirement finally history?! Would the unit work on 230V/50Hz?
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post #1790 of 8689
10/14/10 at 3:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyabusha View Post

738 and 838 are "3D TV's" because they will be firmware updated to accept all 3D formats natively without the 3D converter.

Ahhhh... I see says the blind man... Thank you sir... you truly are a "special member"...
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post #1791 of 8689
10/14/10 at 3:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Nielsen View Post

Are the jacks located on the rear (facing rear) or on the right hand side (facing right). The information in various places is not at all clear on this. One picture has an obvious indication of the rear (at the right hand side) another shows that it's actually at the right hand side. I'm hoping for the latter as moving the 150+ lbs set is not an option without outside help (unit too heavy for wife) after it's installed.

82838 and 73838 owners, please let me know where the connector panel actually is at. Thanks!

According to the owner's manual, the 838 has two jack locations. Most are in the rear and Input 3 is on the right side and includes one HDMI input, one component input, one analog stereo input, and one USB input.

I'm stopping by to see one this evening, so I'll confirm if nobody else posts before that...
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post #1792 of 8689
10/14/10 at 3:49pm
Yes, the 838 has an extra connector section on the side. The 738 only on the rear.
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post #1793 of 8689
10/14/10 at 3:56pm
Just received my 82738 yesterday- a little early as the drywall isn't even up yet. That was fortunate as I ended up having to cut out a couple of studs at the foot of the stairs :0. I can tell you even though the set is "only" six feet wide its harder to move than a 4x8 sheet if drywall! It was worth it though and the electronics- expo deal was legit. Delivered to my basement for less than 2300
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post #1794 of 8689
10/14/10 at 4:09pm
Hmm.. I can't get the TV to update. I followed the instructions, but something is wrong. Step #4 never happens. If I skip ahead to step 5, the TV doesn't update. Anyone have any ideas? The instructions are below. Note that I am using my own flash drive as Mits e-mailed me the file (I actually tried 3 different flash drives). The file they sent was a zip file that contains .utv file. I have tried copying both the zip and the utv file, and nothing. Is there a folder structure that the Mits is looking for? Can anyone with a Mits provided flashdrive let me know what files/directories are on it?

Thanks.

Mits instructions are below:

Update via USB device:
1) Obtain USB device from Mitsubishi or use your own USB device if Mitsubishi has emailed the software
files to you.
2) Press the power button on the remote or the control panel to power the TV on.
3) Un-cap the USB device and insert the USB device into the USB port on the TV (see below diagrams for
help finding the correct USB port on your TV).
4) Wait for the following message to appear on screen. “Either USB is not Inserted or there are no Media Files”
5) Press the power button on the remote or the front panel to power the TV off.
6) Wait for 30 minutes while the TV begins the update process
7) After the above step is completed, power the TV on using the power button on the remote or control panel.
8) Remove the USB device from the TV.
9) Replace the cap on the USB device and place it back in the shipping case and then into the envelope with
the return label attached.
10) Drop the envelope into any UPS drop box. Note: It must be a UPS drop box to use the return label provided.
The package may also be dropped off at any MAIL BOXES ETC. location. If you contact UPS for
a pick up, there will be a $10.00 charge due at the time of pick up.
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post #1795 of 8689
10/14/10 at 5:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by taichi4 View Post

I believe the reason why "upconversions" worked pretty well in 3-D gaming on PCs is that game programmers are essentially putting 3-D information into games which allows the environment around the player to change in a realistic way, with fluid changes of perspective, even though it's shown in 2-D on the display. So the information is really there in a sense and can be accessed in a new way through 3-D technology.

So companies like eDimensional offered 3-D gaming on PCs for a number of years with their shutter glasses and well engineered software. I always wanted to play the PC game Mafia in 3-D, since it's remarkable in 2D. Never did it.

taichi4

I remember playing the original Doom on my PC in 3D with glasses. It's been around a long time. What's interesting is the big push (at least for the 3D hardware) from the manufacturers now. I saw an IMAX movie when I was a kid (and I'm 43) that was called "The Last Buffalo" that was in 3D and it was excellent, very realistic and very 3D.
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post #1796 of 8689
10/14/10 at 6:43pm
Just letting you all know that I went for the Paul's TV deal despite the price going from $1299 to $1399. Ordered the WD73737 online and as soon as placed the order, the item changed to a WD73738. Still a great deal especially with all the promotions going on.
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post #1797 of 8689
10/14/10 at 6:48pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lyqtix View Post

Just letting you all know that I went for the Paul's TV deal despite the price going from $1299 to $1399. Ordered the WD73737 online and as soon as placed the order, the item changed to a WD73738. Still a great deal especially with all the promotions going on.

Lyqtix,

What do you mean that the item changed to a WD-73738? You mean that you ordered a 73737 and then they shipped you a 73738? If so, I'll order one tonight!!!
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post #1798 of 8689
10/14/10 at 6:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by hawkmoon77 View Post

Hmm.. I can't get the TV to update. I followed the instructions, but something is wrong. Step #4 never happens. If I skip ahead to step 5, the TV doesn't update. Anyone have any ideas? The instructions are below. Note that I am using my own flash drive as Mits e-mailed me the file (I actually tried 3 different flash drives). The file they sent was a zip file that contains .utv file. I have tried copying both the zip and the utv file, and nothing. Is there a folder structure that the Mits is looking for? Can anyone with a Mits provided flashdrive let me know what files/directories are on it?

Thanks.

Mits instructions are below:

Update via USB device:
1) Obtain USB device from Mitsubishi or use your own USB device if Mitsubishi has emailed the software
files to you.
2) Press the power button on the remote or the control panel to power the TV on.
3) Un-cap the USB device and insert the USB device into the USB port on the TV (see below diagrams for
help finding the correct USB port on your TV).
4) Wait for the following message to appear on screen. Either USB is not Inserted or there are no Media Files
5) Press the power button on the remote or the front panel to power the TV off.
6) Wait for 30 minutes while the TV begins the update process
7) After the above step is completed, power the TV on using the power button on the remote or control panel.
8) Remove the USB device from the TV.
9) Replace the cap on the USB device and place it back in the shipping case and then into the envelope with
the return label attached.
10) Drop the envelope into any UPS drop box. Note: It must be a UPS drop box to use the return label provided.
The package may also be dropped off at any MAIL BOXES ETC. location. If you contact UPS for
a pick up, there will be a $10.00 charge due at the time of pick up.

I received a flash drive (actually a 3G Kingston Traveler) last Tuesday and did the installation per the steps you have listed. I never saw the display as as noted in step 4, but as it wasn't noted when it would occur, or whether it would be momentary or not, I thought I may have missed it. So after about 40 minutes I decided to continue and turned off the TV, waited about another 40 minutes and turned it back on, wondering if the update took. But when I pressed menu, the s/w version indicated 12.04, an update from 12.02, so it had worked. But I had expected 12.05, so put ANOTHER call to MITS, and they are going to send another flash drive with 12.05. I'm in "wait mode" again. The bad news is the 12.04 update did not fix my HDMI problems. I was hoping to find out what loading the 12.05 did for you.
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post #1799 of 8689
10/14/10 at 7:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd_zilla View Post

Lyqtix,

What do you mean that the item changed to a WD-73738? You mean that you ordered a 73737 and then they shipped you a 73738? If so, I'll order one tonight!!!

Paul's TV has been fulfilling orders for the outgoing 73737 with the new 73738 for the past month or so, nobody seems to know for sure the reason. They are probably out of all 73737s by now, but it is still surprising that they still have this going on, at first some on here thought it was an online glitch!

Just to let you know, I am enjoying my new 73738 right now after ordering the 73737 a few weeks ago, as are others on here, so this deal is real, and the best deal I have ever gotten!
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post #1800 of 8689
10/14/10 at 7:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd_zilla View Post

Lyqtix,

What do you mean that the item changed to a WD-73738? You mean that you ordered a 73737 and then they shipped you a 73738? If so, I'll order one tonight!!!

Yep, that's exactly it! Members have been taking advantage of the deal for about a month now. I just ordered mine tonight so it has not shipped yet, but I immediately see that the 73737 has been replaced with the 73738 after I clicked on the "Place Order" button.

You can read previous postings in this thread on the success of this deal. Also, on SlickDeals.net.

It's an awesome deal!
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