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2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 213

post #6361 of 8689
4/5/11 at 2:10pm
One other question about the 82 inch / 73 inch choice. I keep reading in various places about the 82 inch being "dimmer" then the 73 inch as they use the same lamp.

I will mostly be using the tv to watch movies in a dark room. Is this an issue?

Thanks again!
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post #6362 of 8689
4/5/11 at 2:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by larrysplasma View Post

One other question about the 82 inch / 73 inch choice. I keep reading in various places about the 82 inch being "dimmer" then the 73 inch as they use the same lamp.

I will mostly be using the tv to watch movies in a dark room. Is this an issue?

Thanks again!

IMHO, the 82" has plenty of brightness especially in a dark room. The out of box settings were burning a hole through my eyes before I turned things down.
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post #6363 of 8689
4/5/11 at 3:01pm
Auditioned the 82738 today; while I loved the big screen and thought it was a good compromise between the softer-looking CRT RPTV I currently have and the clarity of LCD (with smoother panning effects than LCD), I was struck by how far off the color decoder was OOB.

I'm sitting there with the salesperson - who is impressing upon me the fact that he was one of two or three ISF certified calibrators who work there, and that they would be glad to service whatever unit I purchased - and wondering why they do not calibrate the units they are using as display models? I mean really inaccurate fleshtones...

I am accustomed to using AVIA and HDBasics and going through the whole calibration screen hoo-ha with the colored filters and all that, but it still baffles me why the manufacturer wants to put out a product that looks this ridiculous, and why ISF people in-house do not fix it to impress upon people how realistic and terrific these sets can look when properly set up.

I have seen recommended settings for this model on previous pages, and while my mileage will of course vary, I was wondering how accurate I can get the color decoder settings, and what the current best understanding is on what those settings are...
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post #6364 of 8689
4/5/11 at 4:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chucklee View Post

Auditioned the 82738 today; while I loved the big screen and thought it was a good compromise between the softer-looking CRT RPTV I currently have and the clarity of LCD (with smoother panning effects than LCD), I was struck by how far off the color decoder was OOB.

I'm sitting there with the salesperson - who is impressing upon me the fact that he was one of two or three ISF certified calibrators who work there, and that they would be glad to service whatever unit I purchased - and wondering why they do not calibrate the units they are using as display models? I mean really inaccurate fleshtones...

I am accustomed to using AVIA and HDBasics and going through the whole calibration screen hoo-ha with the colored filters and all that, but it still baffles me why the manufacturer wants to put out a product that looks this ridiculous, and why ISF people in-house do not fix it to impress upon people how realistic and terrific these sets can look when properly set up.

I have seen recommended settings for this model on previous pages, and while my mileage will of course vary, I was wondering how accurate I can get the color decoder settings, and what the current best understanding is on what those settings are...

If consumers were more knowledgeable and knew what you know maybe they would spend the money to calibrate the sets. I don't ever see that happening because people aren't going to get any smarter, just the opposite I believe.

I'm in my own business, my competition consistently sells ******** to make a sale and it's unbelievable how many people believe, don't know the truth or the difference.

How many homes have you been in where their TV has even close to correct color tones?
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post #6365 of 8689
4/5/11 at 5:26pm
have looked Through this thread and the forum and have not found my exact issue.
My Setup
Mitsubishi WD-73738 TV
HTPC Core2-e8600 NVidia 450GTS Video Centon InfiniTV Tuner
AVR HTR-5063

I can play all channels on the HTPC great but ShowTime Protected content will play for a few seconds to a few minutes then the screen will go black. A few seconds later it shows the picture again and it will then go black again and continue the mentioned on off cycle. If I change the channel to a non HDCP broadcast it plays fine.

Sound going to the AVR does not cut out when the picture does and I just verified it is only copy protected content that has the problem. Maybe a Gifin HDMI Detective will fix this??????????????
Any help would be appreciated.


Thank you again
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post #6366 of 8689
4/5/11 at 5:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chucklee View Post

Auditioned the 82738 today; while I loved the big screen and thought it was a good compromise between the softer-looking CRT RPTV I currently have and the clarity of LCD (with smoother panning effects than LCD), I was struck by how far off the color decoder was OOB.

I'm sitting there with the salesperson - who is impressing upon me the fact that he was one of two or three ISF certified calibrators who work there, and that they would be glad to service whatever unit I purchased - and wondering why they do not calibrate the units they are using as display models? I mean really inaccurate fleshtones...

I am accustomed to using AVIA and HDBasics and going through the whole calibration screen hoo-ha with the colored filters and all that, but it still baffles me why the manufacturer wants to put out a product that looks this ridiculous, and why ISF people in-house do not fix it to impress upon people how realistic and terrific these sets can look when properly set up.

I have seen recommended settings for this model on previous pages, and while my mileage will of course vary, I was wondering how accurate I can get the color decoder settings, and what the current best understanding is on what those settings are...

The 38 series is the most accurate series after calibration that Mitsubishi has ever produced. This is my 2nd Mits and I have calibrated a lot more. It is darn near perfect after calibration. The only thing the competition has on it is black level, but the overall picture quality is awesome. Besides, try to get a 73" plasma for 999-1299. ;-)

The black levels are right on par with ccfl backlit LCD, btw. Only local dimming LCD and plasma have better blacks.
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post #6367 of 8689
4/5/11 at 5:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

The 38 series is the most accurate series after calibration that Mitsubishi has ever produced. This is my 2nd Mits and I have calibrated a lot more. It is darn near perfect after calibration. The only thing the competition has on it is black level, but the overall picture quality is awesome. Besides, try to get a 73" plasma for 999-1299. ;-)

The black levels are right on par with ccfl backlit LCD, btw. Only local dimming LCD and plasma have better blacks.

That's AWESOME to hear about these sets and how good the 38 series is. Thanks. Makes me wonder if the pic quality can possibly get much better on the 2011's?
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post #6368 of 8689
4/5/11 at 6:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chucklee View Post

Auditioned the 82738 today; while I loved the big screen and thought it was a good compromise between the softer-looking CRT RPTV I currently have and the clarity of LCD (with smoother panning effects than LCD), I was struck by how far off the color decoder was OOB.

I'm sitting there with the salesperson - who is impressing upon me the fact that he was one of two or three ISF certified calibrators who work there, and that they would be glad to service whatever unit I purchased - and wondering why they do not calibrate the units they are using as display models? I mean really inaccurate fleshtones...

I am accustomed to using AVIA and HDBasics and going through the whole calibration screen hoo-ha with the colored filters and all that, but it still baffles me why the manufacturer wants to put out a product that looks this ridiculous, and why ISF people in-house do not fix it to impress upon people how realistic and terrific these sets can look when properly set up.

I have seen recommended settings for this model on previous pages, and while my mileage will of course vary, I was wondering how accurate I can get the color decoder settings, and what the current best understanding is on what those settings are...

I shopped for (and bought) multiple higher end plasmas and ccfl lcd's while in this current TV search. The xx738 has some of the best, most natural and realistic colors, even out of the box.

Do a search here for some simple settings for the natural mode (with all the processing off) and you'd be amazed at how good these look right out of the box. Plus, the advanced menu makes them SO good for calibration (mine's not calibrated yet).

Yes, blacks aren't as good as a high end plasma, but if you give up those lowest level blacks you get in return:
  • no buzzing
  • no floating blacks
  • no rising blacks
  • no screen uniformity issues
  • no processing/panning problems
  • etc, etc.
  • - oh, and did I say NO buzzing (that was a big one for me!)

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post #6369 of 8689
4/5/11 at 6:39pm
How do you find someone to calibrate the TV and what's a ballpark figure for the cost? I'm in the Phoenix Metro area, Chandler, AZ.

S
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post #6370 of 8689
4/5/11 at 6:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleonard View Post

How do you find someone to calibrate the TV and what's a ballpark figure for the cost? I'm in the Phoenix Metro area, Chandler, AZ.

S

I did a quick google search for isf calibrators and this looks like a good place to find 1.

http://www.isfforum.com/sobi2/ISF-Fo...ed-States.html
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post #6371 of 8689
4/5/11 at 6:58pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleonard View Post

How do you find someone to calibrate the TV and what's a ballpark figure for the cost? I'm in the Phoenix Metro area, Chandler, AZ.

S

I used a great guy name Michael Hamilton from Tweaktv.com. Did a PHENOMENAL job, has a lot of credentials and the right equiptment($400).
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post #6372 of 8689
4/6/11 at 5:05am
I recently purchased a 65-738.

I have it connected with HDMI to a Yamaha AX1000.

Inputs into the Yamaha are
Samsung BD-P1590 Bluray
DirecTV HR21 DVR
WD Live TV Hub
Computer

The DVR, WD and Computer all work and display properly.

But when I try the bluray player the startup screen displays for about 2 seconds and then the screen goes blank. Like there is a problem with HDMI handshaking.

The Yamaha has 2 HDMI outputs. I have a second TV in another room connected to it. If I turn off the HDMI output to the 65738 and only allow the output to the second TV the bluray works on the second tv. But it does not work with the 65738 even if I disable the second TV. With the output to the 65738 enabled neither TV gets a signal.

I have swapped HDMI cables. And I have tried another (Vizio) bluray player. No change.

Any ideas?
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post #6373 of 8689
4/6/11 at 5:42am
This has probably been covered somewhere in this thread, but....two questions:

Picture wise, how does a 65737 (which I own) compare to the 65738?
I don't care about sound quality, only the picture quality.

Also...

Will Mitsubishi still be manufacturing 65" DLPs?
Their recent announcement says they are concentrating on 73" and up.
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post #6374 of 8689
4/6/11 at 7:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

I used a great guy name Michael Hamilton from Tweaktv.com. Did a PHENOMENAL job, has a lot of credentials and the right equiptment($400).

How long did the calibration take?
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post #6375 of 8689
4/6/11 at 7:32am
Quote:
Originally Posted by yojoe74 View Post

This has probably been covered somewhere in this thread, but....two questions:

Picture wise, how does a 65737 (which I own) compare to the 65738?
I don't care about sound quality, only the picture quality.

Also...

Will Mitsubishi still be manufacturing 65" DLPs?
Their recent announcement says they are concentrating on 73" and up.

the 2010 has a higher bandwidth. I think 10 vs 8. So that allows for a slightly improved picture when pushing full 1080p with high bandwidth content.

65" is dead. All hail the new world of 73" and above.
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post #6376 of 8689
4/6/11 at 8:12am
For real? ....the 2010 738/838 are the last 65" DLP sets Mitsubishi will be making? If so...wow.

So that leads to my next question...

13-14' is my viewing distance now.... will I see any degradation in the picture going to the larger 73" set? Pixelation, dimmer picture, bowing, etc?
I have a 65" now (wd65737) that I am thinking of ultimately moving into my basement room.
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post #6377 of 8689
4/6/11 at 8:20am
I have a WD-65738 with a HDMI/HDCP handshake issue (put "handshake" in to the search for this thread) , but before I call Mits back to tell them I'm still having the issue (on multiple devices) after a couple menu 1-2-3 resets, I wanted to make sure I'm understanding HDMI-CEC correctly. They've given me the standard "If the tech comes out and finds HDMI-CEC was the problem, there's going to be a service charge," etc, etc.

I did briefly have a Pioneer VSX-30 that supported CEC, and it worked, I guess, but it was annoying and I turned it off, anyway. I have a Denon DVD-758 and a 360 as my only two other HDMI devices...I don't think either of them support it, and neither does the TV. In any case, I had this problem both before and after the Pioneer, anyway (I'm back to my old Onkyo...no HDMI switching for now).

As long as the TV says I can't enable HDMI-CEC, there's no way it's causing a problem, right?
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post #6378 of 8689
4/6/11 at 2:30pm
I just purchased the 73-838. It should arrive mid-next week. If anyone has a list of great TV settings for movies, please share them with me, I'd appreciate it!

Also, any other important tips to get the best from the TV.

Thanks!
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post #6379 of 8689
4/6/11 at 5:02pm
I'm looking for a simple stand for the 82" model; I would prefer it to be basically the width of the display (73", if I'm not mistaken), and fairly low - from 16 to no more than 20" high.

I would also need the compartment/shelf in the middle of the unit to be completely open - with no shelves - to fit my center channel speaker. A simple (preferably black) design would work best in its intended location.

I've considered having it custom built, but don't know if I can find the time to work with a cabinet maker (forget about DYI; after building both subwoofers - a Sonosub and a 7 cubic foot Baltic Birch cabinet - I think I've used up my paltry building skills for the next decade )
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post #6380 of 8689
4/6/11 at 6:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chucklee View Post

I'm looking for a simple stand for the 82" model; I would prefer it to be basically the width of the display (73", if I'm not mistaken), and fairly low - from 16 to no more than 20" high.

I would also need the compartment/shelf in the middle of the unit to be completely open - with no shelves - to fit my center channel speaker. A simple (preferably black) design would work best in its intended location.

I've considered having it custom built, but don't know if I can find the time to work with a cabinet maker (forget about DYI; after building both subwoofers - a Sonosub and a 7 cubic foot Baltic Birch cabinet - I think I've used up my paltry building skills for the next decade )

http://www.plateaucorp.com/html/fixe.../crx-2v-54.htm I use this stand. I don't believe the middle shelf has to be installed. Bout 15.5" high, but I don't use the pegs on the bottom, so roughly 14.5"...
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post #6381 of 8689
4/6/11 at 6:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonofsoren View Post

I just got my WD-65738 on Thursday and I am hoping there is a certain amount of break-in time that this set needs to reach optimal performance. I have been watching the ticker on the bottom of ESPN and it is really blurry and almost unreadable when it tracks quickly from left to right. Has anyone else had any experience like this with their tv, is there something wrong with my tv or my settings, or is there a break-in period I need to wait on for this set to reach optimal performance?

My brand new WD-73838 does the same, but sometimes mid-way thru it clears up. The issues I have are out of proportion edges which I'm the only one that sees it. I verified it using my cal cd. The image is not centered and has some bowing at the edges. However it seems they all have some geometry issues. The other issue is clarity on non-closeup images. I'm not sure if this is a problem or just Mitsubishi DLP's. My 72 inch Samsung DLP was better in this area. The overall picture itself and the colors have gotten better and look great. Vann's says they will replace the TV but the next one may be worse so I'm not sure what to do yet. They're giving me a little bit of time to decide.
Thanks Mike
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post #6382 of 8689
4/7/11 at 4:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post
http://www.plateaucorp.com/html/fixe.../crx-2v-54.htm I use this stand. I don't believe the middle shelf has to be installed. Bout 15.5" high, but I don't use the pegs on the bottom, so roughly 14.5"...
This is what my 73838 stands on..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...SMEG33Y40SF3MN

its modern and sleek and everyone who comes over always comments how good it looks
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post #6383 of 8689
4/7/11 at 6:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by chucklee View Post
I'm looking for a simple stand for the 82" model; I would prefer it to be basically the width of the display (73", if I'm not mistaken), and fairly low - from 16 to no more than 20" high.

I would also need the compartment/shelf in the middle of the unit to be completely open - with no shelves - to fit my center channel speaker. A simple (preferably black) design would work best in its intended location.

I've considered having it custom built, but don't know if I can find the time to work with a cabinet maker (forget about DYI; after building both subwoofers - a Sonosub and a 7 cubic foot Baltic Birch cabinet - I think I've used up my paltry building skills for the next decade )
You didn't give a price range...so a Salamander quad 10 would work for you.
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post #6384 of 8689
4/7/11 at 8:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by yojoe74 View Post

For real? ....the 2010 738/838 are the last 65" DLP sets Mitsubishi will be making? If so...wow.

So that leads to my next question...

13-14' is my viewing distance now.... will I see any degradation in the picture going to the larger 73" set? Pixelation, dimmer picture, bowing, etc?
I have a 65" now (wd65737) that I am thinking of ultimately moving into my basement room.

7-8 feet is the correct viewing distance for a 65 inch if you have 20-20 vision and want to see the full 1080P resolution. See the chart in my sig for screen size vs viewing distance. I think the chart is pretty accurate as I have tested with 1 pixel resolution test signal and at 7 feet, my normal viewing distance for 65 inch, I can just see the 1 pixel lines and at 8 feet I cannot make then out.

Mike T
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post #6385 of 8689
4/7/11 at 8:24am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JST4FN View Post

My brand new WD-73838 does the same, but sometimes mid-way thru it clears up. The issues I have are out of proportion edges which I'm the only one that sees it. I verified it using my cal cd. The image is not centered and has some bowing at the edges. However it seems they all have some geometry issues. The other issue is clarity on non-closeup images. I'm not sure if this is a problem or just Mitsubishi DLP's. My 72 inch Samsung DLP was better in this area. The overall picture itself and the colors have gotten better and look great. Vann's says they will replace the TV but the next one may be worse so I'm not sure what to do yet. They're giving me a little bit of time to decide.
Thanks Mike

My problem has gotten better and I don't know exactly why because I did not change any of the settings. However, I had my tv turn off on its own yesterday and the green light on front just blinked and blinked. It has since come back to work just fine, but I am afraid that the main board is bad since a lot of people have had the same experience and had to replace the main board.
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post #6386 of 8689
4/7/11 at 9:31am
I have 4 pairs of Optoma BG-ZD101 DLP Link glasses on the way and was wondering what 3d settings I needed to have on my 65738? I know you should select automatic and DLP Link, but should the glasses L-R be set to standard or reverse?
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post #6387 of 8689
4/7/11 at 10:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonofsoren View Post

I have 4 pairs of Optoma BG-ZD101 DLP Link glasses on the way and was wondering what 3d settings I needed to have on my 65738? I know you should select automatic and DLP Link, but should the glasses L-R be set to standard or reverse?

I have the same glasses. You should set the L-R to reverse.
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post #6388 of 8689
4/7/11 at 2:37pm
Hey guys, I was thinking of buying the Panasonic DMP-BDT210 for 3-D Blu-ray movies. Is there any consensus on whether the DLP Link route or the IR/RF route is the better option?
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post #6389 of 8689
4/7/11 at 5:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainMan10 View Post

I recently purchased a 65-738.

I have it connected with HDMI to a Yamaha AX1000.

Inputs into the Yamaha are
Samsung BD-P1590 Bluray
DirecTV HR21 DVR
WD Live TV Hub
Computer

The DVR, WD and Computer all work and display properly.

But when I try the bluray player the startup screen displays for about 2 seconds and then the screen goes blank. Like there is a problem with HDMI handshaking.

The Yamaha has 2 HDMI outputs. I have a second TV in another room connected to it. If I turn off the HDMI output to the 65738 and only allow the output to the second TV the bluray works on the second tv. But it does not work with the 65738 even if I disable the second TV. With the output to the 65738 enabled neither TV gets a signal.

I have swapped HDMI cables. And I have tried another (Vizio) bluray player. No change.

Any ideas?

I tried the $100 hdmi cable from Best Buy. Still no change.

Finally I found a review on Amazon suggesting a Menu 123 reset. Did that with the bluray plugged in. Works for now. Hoping it continues to work.
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post #6390 of 8689
4/7/11 at 5:29pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by sonofsoren View Post

BUYERS BEWARE OF A MATTER OF FAX! Yeah I got burned. They ended up sending some 4 pairs of DLP Link knock-offs. I have filed a complaint against them with the FTC and the BBB, and have filed a dispute with my credit card for the amount. They definately use bait and switch tactics. They are listed as the lowest price seller on Google at $70 per pair, but you have to read the fine print between the lines. It gives all the appearance that you are getting the Optima BG-ZD101 DLP Link glasses, and you don't even end up getting what they list on the website. I just placed another order for 4 pairs of these glasses from TigerDirect for 89.99 a piece plus shipping so I can get the right glasses. Oh the joys of lifes little lessons...

You might want to try reporting A Matter of Fax to the BBB or the FTC. I did, and A Matter of Fax promptly called me and issued a full refund without charging me a restocking fee.
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