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2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 227

post #6781 of 8689
5/3/11 at 9:07am
Apparently no one saw my earlier post:

I requested a change log for the firmware updates from MDEA. This is what they sent me:

12.04
Wireless network WEP security issues
Audio-video delay when using 5.1/dolby audio on HDMI
HDMI connection issues
Bluetooth discovery issues, audio issues and screen saver
Vudu crashes when using volume button

12.05
TV shutdown and non-recoverable due to custom install selecting input 3

12.06
Added 3D features to recognize various 3D formats directly

12.07
Cannot connect to network due to a space in the network name (SSID)
3D Glasses REVERSE switches back to STANDARD after 3D is detected
VUDU screen is delayed 15 seconds after stopping a streaming movie
Reboot when using DTS source. Only shutsdown when content is playing.

12.08
Added VUDU deactivation feature. Deletes all user data from VUDU. (MENU2470 menu)
Manual LAN connection changes to DHCP after power cycle
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post #6782 of 8689
5/3/11 at 11:08am
bcterp - Much thanks! (I knew I had seen the post but I did not remember which page or post #)
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post #6783 of 8689
5/3/11 at 12:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray77085 View Post

Ok,
I tried adjusting the Advanced picture settings on my 73-738 DLP. I tried some of the settings that are posted by others and those look close to the natural setting.
I only find my self going back to the Brilliant picture mode.
I can't afford a calibrator at this time.
So can somebody post some picture setting tweaks with Brilliant ? I know that these TV's come out of the factory set up different.
Thanks

Calibration is about getting the TV to reproduce the HD spec as accurately as possible. Brilliant is the most INACCURATE setting the TV offers. Nobody takes the time to attempt to fix Brilliant because it's an effort in futility.

If that's the mode you like, chances are you're not going to be happy with a true calibration anyway.

However, once most people give a calibrated pic a chance, they can't stand brilliant any longer because the picture is so horrible in comparison.
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post #6784 of 8689
5/3/11 at 1:51pm
Any news on the 2011 models and differences between the 2010 models?
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post #6785 of 8689
5/3/11 at 2:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

However, once most people give a calibrated pic a chance, they can't stand brilliant any longer because the picture is so horrible in comparison.

Ya I don't get why people don't understand what a correct picture is supposed to look like, even if it's not perfect but close.

To me it's pretty simple.....does it look real? If the real world looked like it does in brilliant mode, I'm afraid there's extremely high levels of radiation!!!!
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post #6786 of 8689
5/3/11 at 4:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicholc2 View Post

Calibration is about getting the TV to reproduce the HD spec as accurately as possible. Brilliant is the most INACCURATE setting the TV offers. Nobody takes the time to attempt to fix Brilliant because it's an effort in futility.

If that's the mode you like, chances are you're not going to be happy with a true calibration anyway.

However, once most people give a calibrated pic a chance, they can't stand brilliant any longer because the picture is so horrible in comparison.

I understand what you are saying. I'm use to looking at the 36" CRT based TV and the 42" LG Plasma which neither has been calibrated.
I know the colors are very saturated and not accurate in all 3-sets.

Do you have any recommendations that could help me to stop watching in Brilliant ?
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post #6787 of 8689
5/3/11 at 4:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray77085 View Post

Ok,
I tried adjusting the Advanced picture settings on my 73-738 DLP. I tried some of the settings that are posted by others and those look close to the natural setting.
I only find my self going back to the Brilliant picture mode.
I can't afford a calibrator at this time.
So can somebody post some picture setting tweaks with Brilliant ? I know that these TV's come out of the factory set up different.
Thanks

The Advanced mode requires at least a light meter and calibration software to adjust properly. Best bet w/o paying for a calibration is to use Natural Mode. Many blurays have a THX calibration section that will help you adjust the contrast, brightness, color and tint. You can adjust the color and tint in Advanced using the blue only option and a THX bluray. Then apply the same color and contrast to natural.

I measured all the modes with my meter. The best I could do with Brilliant was knock the color down a few notches and set the color temp to low. Turn of edge enhancement.

Brilliant wasn't even close in color.
Bright was closer, but the colors were still off.
Natural had reasonably accurate colors.
Advanced can be tweaked for near perfect color.
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post #6788 of 8689
5/3/11 at 4:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

Ya I don't get why people don't understand what a correct picture is supposed to look like, even if it's not perfect but close.

To me it's pretty simple.....does it look real? If the real world looked like it does in brilliant mode, I'm afraid there's extremely high levels of radiation!!!!

Colour,
I've listed my reason why above. I'm trying man, I'm trying.
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post #6789 of 8689
5/3/11 at 4:05pm
I am planning to move in a couple of months, i threw away the packaging box that came along with shipping - it was taking too much space
any ideas of moving the tv with out any damage

Thanks
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post #6790 of 8689
5/3/11 at 4:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainMan10 View Post

The Advanced mode requires at least a light meter and calibration software to adjust properly. Best bet w/o paying for a calibration is to use Natural Mode. Many blurays have a THX calibration section that will help you adjust the contrast, brightness, color and tint. You can adjust the color and tint in Advanced using the blue only option and a THX bluray. Then apply the same color and contrast to natural.

I measured all the modes with my meter. The best I could do with Brilliant was knock the color down a few notches and set the color temp to low. Turn of edge enhancement.

Brilliant wasn't even close in color.
Bright was closer, but the colors were still off.
Natural had reasonably accurate colors.
Advanced can be tweaked for near perfect color.


Awesome,
Thanks for the tips and I'll play around with what you have suggested.
I do have some older calibration disc. Should I try those as well ?
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post #6791 of 8689
5/3/11 at 4:22pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray77085 View Post

Colour,
I've listed my reason why above. I'm trying man, I'm trying.

You can try others advanced settings in ADV mode for a starting point and play with the settings from there. You can always reset to default.

Like the other poster said trying to change the preset modes with any accuracy is futile.
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post #6792 of 8689
5/3/11 at 4:48pm
I use the Brilliant mode when watching 3D because the glasses make the picture look too dark.

Brilliant mode is great for 3D !
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post #6793 of 8689
5/3/11 at 5:18pm
Good for remote controls


http://www.amazon.com/gp/goldbox/ref=cs_top_nav_gb27

Free shipping
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post #6794 of 8689
5/3/11 at 5:39pm
Ok so I have been eyeballing the 82 inch version of this model. I have a quick question. Would you guys recommend it? I know mitsubishi has had some lemon tv's in the past. Have they worked out all the bugs?

I would be upgrading from a 5 yr old sony 60" sxrd
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post #6795 of 8689
5/3/11 at 6:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhall812 View Post

Ok so I have been eyeballing the 82 inch version of this model. I have a quick question. Would you guys recommend it? I know mitsubishi has had some lemon tv's in the past. Have they worked out all the bugs?

I would be upgrading from a 5 yr old sony 60" sxrd

I have the 73" and if I had room I would have bought the 82" but I don't. At least I can throw my panny ae4000 on and get 133"

When watching 3d the screen looks smaller and 3d and size go together so get the 82" if you have the room.
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post #6796 of 8689
5/3/11 at 6:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhall812 View Post

Ok so I have been eyeballing the 82 inch version of this model. I have a quick question. Would you guys recommend it? I know mitsubishi has had some lemon tv's in the past. Have they worked out all the bugs?

I would be upgrading from a 5 yr old sony 60" sxrd

I give it my highest recommendation. Keep in mind, you tend to hear more about lemons than satisfied customers. I strongly suggest you get it professionally calibrated(particularly if your sitting close to a display that large). That's the way you really get the most out of it. If cost is an issue(isn't it always?), you can use a blu-ray calibration disc like HQV. I would use it on the natural setting.
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post #6797 of 8689
5/3/11 at 6:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray77085 View Post

I understand what you are saying. I'm use to looking at the 36" CRT based TV and the 42" LG Plasma which neither has been calibrated.
I know the colors are very saturated and not accurate in all 3-sets.

Do you have any recommendations that could help me to stop watching in Brilliant ?

Try the following settings below for brightness similar to the "Brilliant" setting but better colors for a decent picture, and for varied sunlight environments. I have tried most of the settings (including Nicholc2's and Jaseman's) previously posted throughout this thread but non were good enough for my TV viewing environment. So I have used my own settings for many months now and my large family and I are very happy with the picture quality.

Note: Not all TV's (same model TV's) will look the same even though they might have the same settings. This can be do to their various environments and or internal related functions or defects. The following settings are not meant for the perfect calibration/spec crowed, so please cover your eyes if you must. But these settings have worked perfectly with my "73738" in a large windowed living room area, and have looked great during night and day viewing of SD or HD content (including Dish Network, PS3, and Blu-ray). But I prefer watching 3D (with IR glasses) at night with minimal or zero external light sources.

Picture Mode: ADV
DeepField Imager: On
Super Resolution: Middle
EdgeEnhance: On
Video Noise: Low
Brightness: 25 or 28
Contrast: 45 or 55
Color: 40
Tint: 26 or 31
Sharpness: 25
Gamma: 1.8 or 2.0
Red High: 1023
Green High: 1023
Blue High: 1023
Red Low: 0
Green Low: 0
Blue Low: 0
Blue Only: Off
Red Adjust: 15, 0, 0
Green Adjust: 0, 15, 0
Blue Adjust: 0, 0, 15
Magenta Adjust: 15, 0, 15
Cyan Adjust: 0, 15, 15
Yellow Adjust: 15, 15, 0

Other Possible Settings.

Audio Settings:
Bass = 45
Treble = 35
Balance = 31
Sound Mode = Surround
Level Sound = On or Off

Other Video Settings:
Film Mode = Auto
Smooth 120 = On
Lamp Energy = Standard
Color Temp = Low (On All Picture Modes)

For Picture Modes (Brilliant, Bright, Natural):

DeepField Imager: On
EdgeEnhance: On
Video Noise: Low
Brightness: 25 or 28
Contrast: 45 or 55
Color: 25 or 31
Tint: 26 or 31
Sharpness: 25
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post #6798 of 8689
5/3/11 at 7:13pm
By the way I forgot to mention that the HDMI/PS3 handshake problems that my "73738" TV was having (I posted about this previously) was fixed very quickly by getting the main board replaced early last month. I bought the TV October 2010 so it's still under warranty and thankfully the fix was free and fast. It's working perfect now, even on firmware 012.08.

It just took a few phone calls..two to Mit (using the number you see when turning on/off the TV) to alert them of the problem with my TV and to also follow their steps to get the problem on record. I then called the place where I bought the TV (Paul's TV) to let them also know. And finally to my nearest Mit repair shop to let them know of the problem and to schedule an appointment.
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post #6799 of 8689
5/3/11 at 7:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Rain View Post

I use the Brilliant mode when watching 3D because the glasses make the picture look too dark.

Brilliant mode is great for 3D !

Except the colors are way off in "Brilliant" mode and nowhere near the real color, at least with my TV and it's very noticeable with reds. My ADV mode with Brightness 25/28, Contrast 55, and Gama 1.8 looks fairly close to the "Brilliant" mode light levels. I have not had any issues with 3D being too dark using my ADV settings.
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post #6800 of 8689
5/4/11 at 4:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetAngel View Post

Try the following settings below for brightness similar to the "Brilliant" setting but better colors for a decent picture, and for varied sunlight environments. I have tried most of the settings (including Nicholc2's and Jaseman's) previously posted throughout this thread but non were good enough for my TV viewing environment. So I have used my own settings for many months now and my large family and I are very happy with the picture quality.

Note: Not all TV's (same model TV's) will look the same even though they might have the same settings. This can be do to their various environments and or internal related functions or defects. The following settings are not meant for the perfect calibration/spec crowed, so please cover your eyes if you must. But these settings have worked perfectly with my "73738" in a large windowed living room area, and have looked great during night and day viewing of SD or HD content (including Dish Network, PS3, and Blu-ray). But I prefer watching 3D (with IR glasses) at night with minimal or zero external light sources.

Picture Mode: ADV
DeepField Imager: On
Super Resolution: Middle
EdgeEnhance: On
Video Noise: Low
Brightness: 25 or 28
Contrast: 45 or 55
Color: 40
Tint: 26 or 31
Sharpness: 25
Gamma: 1.8 or 2.0
Red High: 1023
Green High: 1023
Blue High: 1023
Red Low: 0
Green Low: 0
Blue Low: 0
Blue Only: Off
Red Adjust: 15, 0, 0
Green Adjust: 0, 15, 0
Blue Adjust: 0, 0, 15
Magenta Adjust: 15, 0, 15
Cyan Adjust: 0, 15, 15
Yellow Adjust: 15, 15, 0

Other Possible Settings.

Audio Settings:
Bass = 45
Treble = 35
Balance = 31
Sound Mode = Surround
Level Sound = On or Off

Other Video Settings:
Film Mode = Auto
Smooth 120 = On
Lamp Energy = Standard
Color Temp = Low (On All Picture Modes)

For Picture Modes (Brilliant, Bright, Natural):

DeepField Imager: On
EdgeEnhance: On
Video Noise: Low
Brightness: 25 or 28
Contrast: 45 or 55
Color: 25 or 31
Tint: 26 or 31
Sharpness: 25

Thanks for posting your settings. I'm going to play around with the settings this weekend.
We are just so use to looking at big bright maxed out contrast TV.
Hopefully I can find something that will make everybody here in my house hold happy.
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post #6801 of 8689
5/4/11 at 6:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray77085 View Post

Thanks for posting your settings. I'm going to play around with the settings this weekend.
We are just so use to looking at big bright maxed out contrast TV.
Hopefully I can find something that will make everybody here in my house hold happy.

I have no idea where you live, but a relatively simple test is to look at the grass outside and then watch something with grass and make sure they aren't radically different. In brilliant mode, grass looks like a super bright shade of GREEN. Same thing with other colors. Find a reference in real life and compare it to how something similar looks on the TV. This obviously isn't as good as a full professional calibration, but it should get the point across to everyone in the house that what you're watching right now is very artificial. If you decide in the end that you still prefer it that way, then that's your choice to make.
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post #6802 of 8689
5/4/11 at 6:44am
Thanks for posting the settings. I'll play around with it more.

So if I were to try to do this myself with software and a meter, what would I need to get, meaning what software and meter would you recommend?

By the way, how much does a professional calibration cost?
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post #6803 of 8689
5/4/11 at 7:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray77085 View Post

Thanks for posting your settings. I'm going to play around with the settings this weekend.
We are just so use to looking at big bright maxed out contrast TV.
Hopefully I can find something that will make everybody here in my house hold happy.

Usually those first 4 settings are left off. I only use EE due to my seating being a little too far away.
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post #6804 of 8689
5/4/11 at 8:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwitchbladeHD View Post

Thanks for posting the settings. I'll play around with it more.

So if I were to try to do this myself with software and a meter, what would I need to get, meaning what software and meter would you recommend?

By the way, how much does a professional calibration cost?

For your first question, HCFR is free and does a great job. The meter is trickier as unfortunately the accuracy really depends on the cost. For a budget meter, though, that is more of a question for the calibration forum. I personally use an i1Pro, but you probably don't want to spend that much for a meter.

A typical calibration will run anywhere from 300-500 depending on the calibrator and the range of services offered. I charge substantially less than that, but I only cover mid-Ohio so my travel costs are minimal, and I have a day job so it's not my only source of income.
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post #6805 of 8689
5/4/11 at 8:35am
how far can i put 73inches mits. TV if u r watching 3d movies?

7 ft

8 ft

9 ft

10ft

11ft and above..
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post #6806 of 8689
5/4/11 at 9:34am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwitchbladeHD View Post

Thanks for posting the settings. I'll play around with it more.

So if I were to try to do this myself with software and a meter, what would I need to get, meaning what software and meter would you recommend?

By the way, how much does a professional calibration cost?

Search Amazon for "X-Rite Eye-One Display LT" It is the best low cost meter.
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post #6807 of 8689
5/4/11 at 11:06am
Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

To me it's pretty simple.....does it look real? If the real world looked like it does in brilliant mode, I'm afraid there's extremely high levels of radiation!!!!

Very well put!
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post #6808 of 8689
5/4/11 at 11:24am
I noticed that for SOME situations (noticeably while playing some animations), I see flickers on the screen. It is largely resolved via changing lamp energy from standard to bright (I THINK that is what it says, but anyways, there are only 2 settings)

Now, noticed that it does not happen all the time. It does not necessary happen when a lot of items are bright white on the screen either, though it is more noticeable when screen is showing bright scenes when it does happen.

I have read someone getting this issue fixed by putting lamp energy to high/bright mode and running through about 100 hours worth of viewing and then switching back.

Before trying this out, did anyone run into this issue? Any fixes?

I have 73738.
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post #6809 of 8689
5/4/11 at 11:47am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwitchbladeHD View Post

...

By the way, how much does a professional calibration cost?

I got my 73833 calibrated for $200 by BB and I'm happy with it. Others would say that they don't do a good job because they don't stay >2 hours. I'm thinking of getting my 65738 calibrated as well and it will be $150 because of the first calibration. I tried getting one from out of state, but they canceled at the last minute because they didn't have enough customers in NM.
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post #6810 of 8689
5/4/11 at 11:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by GetAngel View Post

Except the colors are way off in "Brilliant" mode and nowhere near the real color, at least with my TV and it's very noticeable with reds. My ADV mode with Brightness 25/28, Contrast 55, and Gama 1.8 looks fairly close to the "Brilliant" mode light levels. I have not had any issues with 3D being too dark using my ADV settings.

True but the glasses have a green tint so I have the brilliant settings adjusted just for 3d watching to get rid of some of the green tint and tone it down as much as possible without losing the brightness I need for 3d viewing.

I use advance for normal TV viewing being I watch 2d 90% of the time and don't want to have to adjust the tint back to normal everytime after viewing a 3d movie.

Brilliant for 3d with settings adjusted just for 3d.

Advance for 2d and adjusted just for 2d.

It will stay this way until I get my hands on the Monster Max glasses
which have hardly any tint at all. My UC glasses are clear but not tint (Green)free and it drives me crazy .

Check out this video from a AVS member ..go right to the 4:00 minute mark for the tint review
for the Monster Max 3d glasses.... Big Difference !


By the way VIP sells the same kit without the Monster Name and cheaper to boot !

http://youtu.be/j6tLLIwtrb8?hd=1
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