2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 228

I just checked and my TV ( 73738 ) has been updated ( Always Hardwired ) to 12.08 and it's only about
2 weeks old.

Must have happened lastnight while I was sleeping .

can you tell us what setting u did and post it?

Best Buy just offered me a replacement for my WD-73833 Diamond Series TV due to the bowing screen. Keep in mind, I've had this TV since 2007, and have loved it. But I figured with my extended performance plan, I would finally get the screen taken care of.

low and behold, they can't get the replacement part, so they just offered me a "comparable" model as a free replacement. How sweet is that!!?? So, they want to offer me the WD-73738, which isn't in the "diamond series". However that model vs mine from 2007 is still way better.

Would you guys agree with that? I've tried to make the argument that I deserve the "diamond series" as the replacement, but even if I can't get the higher end one, I think I'm still coming out WAY AHEAD on that deal.

I'm actually thinking of spending about $1K to get the 82" model (WD-82738). I'm concerned about geometry issues. Anyone have any with these new sets?

Also, do these no models have 1:1 Pixel mapping now adays? That's the one thing (aside from the slightly bowed screen), that always got on my nerves. Made it impossible to use an HTPC.

Any comments or input would be appreciated. I also have the option of just ditching Mits all together and going with something else. I was thinking the 70" Sharp AQUOUS would be a pretty sweet replacement, although a tad more expensive than the 82".

I DID NOT like the Aquos, it seemed to break up in fast-motion scenes. Go for the 82"!!!

Yep, I did a little research on the 70" Sharp, and from what I can tell it seems to have sacrificed some PQ for size. Will prob pass on that one.

I am digging the 82", but I've been combing through this thread tonight and have some concerns. First and foremost, no matter what tv i get, I want to have the same or better PQ than what I have now. The "diamond" series I bought back in 2007 was top of the line. I'm worried that the WD-xx738 in the 2010 series isn't in the same class, so does that mean the PQ wouldn't be as good? Part of me wants to believe even if not compared to the higher end WD-xx838 line of today, the fact that the TV is 3 generations newer would mean better technology overall and a better PQ.

But I read a post from someone that went from the 73833 that I have to the 82738 and wasn't very happy. I believe the biggest complaint was the brightness not being quite as good.

Anyone else out there upgrade from the 73833 to any of the xx738 models? How did it compare to you?

My other concern has to do with the viewing angle. Not the side to side angle, rather the vertical viewing angle. I have a 24" stand, and my primary seating is approx 13' away. I'm worried that the larger 82" display would put the viewing center of the screen too high and would result in noticeable dimming, especially since that sometimes I am in a reclined position when watching TV from that distance.

So, those are my concerns for the moment. Maybe I should just stick with the new 73", but definitely trying to figure out if that new TV is technologically superior to the diamond that I have.

The DLP RPTV's do have 1:1 pixel mapping (the TV isn't scaling the image), but they also have overscan which means about 5% or so of the image is projected off the screen on all sides. What I've done to deal with this is to configure a custom resolution within 1080p timings that allows me to use the Windows desktop (ATI and nVidia driver control panels both have controls for doing this, the exact procedure is different for each and any questions regarding how to do this really should be asked in the HTPC forum). I've got the PC setup to switch to standard 1080p when running anything like a Blu-ray or DVD player software where I don't want the image scaled to the custom resolution. It works out quite well.

I've done a little more research, and it appears to me that my current Diamond WD-73833 has some features that the WD-73738 doesn't have. Those are:

Dark Detailer
Perfect Color
PerfectTint

My question is, how do these 3 technologies affect PQ? The WD-73738 doesn't have these, but is 3 generations newer than my old TV. So I'm still trying to figure out which would have better PQ? In other words, would I miss my Diamond?

I just had my 73833 calibrated and they didn't even touch the Perfect Color and Perfect Tint so I wouldn't get the Diamond the next time. I would get the next level down, the XX738 series. BTW, I also have the 65738 and am loving it.

I don't use any of those features.

I posted this question but didn't get any replies, so trying one last time. This is driving me crazy!

... is there a single key or IR command that can change the 3D mode from Auto to Side by Side? One of my sources is a PopCorn Hour and it won't work in Auto mode. Therefore, I have to hit Menu...Left arrow key...down arrow key twice, then enter key. That is a lot of hassle to just change the mode.

Has anyone figured out how to avoid all these steps?

I'm using the MX 850 remote right now, although I'm going to upgrade to the Logitech Harmony 900. For the MX 850, I wasn't able to find the right remote config file for my new 65738, but it would be nice if there was a single command to swich the 3D mode.

With the ADV picture mode available on the 38 series, it replaces the functionality of PC and PT so they are no longer necessary. Dark detailer is a personal preference thing. I don't like it because it messes with gamma, but that's me. I would say that unless you have a need for the speaker upgrade that the 838 has, there's no need to pay the extra $$ for it.

Thanks for the info. Since Best Buy is trying to offer me the 738 as the replacement for my 833, i'm going to try to argue that they should really be offering me the 838 as a comparable. Tell me if I'm off base here, but my argument is that my 833 and the 838 share the following features that the 738 doesn't have:

Dark Detailer
PerfectColor
PerfecTint
NetCommand
Wired IR Input
USB Media Input
4 HDMI ports (1 accessible from the front). 738 only has 3.

The problem is, they don't sell the 838 in the 73". They only carry it in the 82". I'm really going to stress that I need the 4th HDMI.

I hope I can get them to see my point and agree, so I can get a higher end unit as the replacement.

I don't believe there is a discrete code to do that. You could always make a macro.

I know I'm a little late with the updates, but my 82738 automatically updated to the 12.08 firmware.

It sounds like you already know what you want so why do you keep asking us?

Because I may have to settle for the 738 instead, so just trying to get input on whether the PQ on the new unit will still be better than my old 833 model. That's all.

I have both the 73833 and the 65738 and the 65738 is brighter but that may be only because the lamp on the 73833 is almost 4 years old and I'm still on the original lamp.

The other difference would be the smaller screen size. I would expect the smaller TV to be brighter even if both TV's have fresh lamps. But there's a lot more to picture quality than brightness.

I recently upgraded from a WD-65835 (a Diamond series model) to a WD-82838. In addition to the picture (obviously) being much larger, I feel the image quality is a reasonably big step up overall. I would also expect the image on the 738 series to be better than the 833 series given that the 738 is so many generations newer than the 833.

kjahadi - if you really need the 4th HDMI input, the wired IR input, or one or more of the other features on the Diamond series, then you should definitely try to get them to replace Diamond with Diamond (or offer to pay a percentage of the difference in price to go from the 738 to the 838). Otherwise, you should probably be happy to settle for a brand new 738. Either way, you're probably getting a pretty good deal.

Remember the 4th HDMI at doesn't allow for the ADVANCED settings...

i think the major improvement in the 738 is the bandwidth. It is now 12bit. That is a huge improvement over the 8bit system you had before. It allows for much more picture data to be processed.


Its a no-brainer IMO.

All great feedback. Thanks for your input, and yes I'm thinking that either way I'm getting a pretty sweet deal.

Only question I have to answer is whether I spend about $1k to get the 82". I dropped by a store today that had the 73" and 82" side by side. I have to say the 82" was impressive but definitely not as bright in a side by side test.

For that reason, I'm kinda leaning toward staying in the 73" size, although my living room sure can accommodate the larger set. Tough call for me actually.

Hello all,
Today I decided to turn on my TV(65738 Series) and the blue welcome screen came on as usual, but then all of a sudden it froze and the TV suddenly turned off. The green led light just blinks really fast. I tried everything from the manual and the Mitsubishi website and still nothing. Can anyone help!

Mine did it 2nite(4th time since I purchased it in Nov). I'm gonna call the authorized repair center, although mine has always fired back up.

install the companion software found on their support site.

Call them now. From the first day last week I called it took them 3 days just to approve a repair man to come out. They may also make you download and install the new update and companion software. It was a waste of time for me and did not fix the problem. I have now been without a tv for 2 weeks.

The same exact thing happened to me and multiple other people. I am convinced that the new update 12.08 is frying some people's tvs. Why else would there be so many failures at the same time with the same exact symptoms? I am currently under warranty issue escalation with mits. The repair man they sent out said it was a blown color wheel. I have serious doubts. He should be back Monday to install. My bet is that it does not fix it and it turns out to be a fried main board.

I have a similar problem, and from searching through this forum, it looks like changing the energy setting to 'bright' is the way to resolve the issue. I haven't seen 100 hours, but I saw a post with someone saying that it only took 20 hours for him. I'm in around hour 16... I'll change it back soon and see if the flickering still occurs.

my 65838 is coming in next Wednesday. Any tips on what i should do the moment i get it?

also, what calibration disc would you guys recommend for this TV?

Exact thing happened to me, right down to the welcome screen freezing. (73738, 12.07), they replaced the main board, took a week.

I'm still paranoid about it! So what if I bought a replacement main board myself & just held it, so if it happens again I can replace it myself? Assuming I don't care about the $/warranty. They run around $150.

I have the 73838. How far does the back of the cabinet need to be away from the wall?

Thanks!

This setting is grayed out and set to OFF, and I can't change it. I tried changing it both on the DTV source and my PopCorn Hour, same result.

What would cause this?