AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › 2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 262

post #7831 of 8689
9/8/11 at 10:05am
That's why I'm confused about this not sure why its happening over component..
Reply
Reply

Gear mentioned in this thread:

post #7832 of 8689
9/8/11 at 11:20am
Thought I'd add some feedback for reliability.

I bought and 82838 last Octoberwhich replaced my beloved Pioneer Elite PRO710HD (64" RPTV). I love the size and picture of the TV without a doubt. It did have some geometry issues but I placed a trouble call and a tech came out and tweaked it to look very reasonable.

I've had the set shut off by itself with light blinking 3 times since then but it hasn't done this for about 4 months. It has also given me a blank "black screen" on several occasions (about 12 times altogether) on power up and also when switching inputs say from DVD to U-verse. Other than that it's been solid.

So my question is: since the warranty is up in late October, I only have about a month and a half left. I've never bought and extened warranty on ANYTHING I've owned but I have to admit that I'm considering it now because of the aforementioned problems.

Any advice?
Reply
Reply
post #7833 of 8689
9/8/11 at 11:41am
Quote:
Originally Posted by SubaruB4 View Post

So what should I do then? the box puts out a signal on both outputs when the power is off.

Have them get a programmable remote with macros. Setup a macro that turns everything off at the same time. Something reasonable (such as one of the lower end Logitech Harmony remotes) can be bought for less than the cost of a replacement bulb. Or just tell them to turn the TV off when they aren't using it. But cutting power to the TV is a recipe for trouble and definitely not recommended.
Reply
Reply
post #7834 of 8689
9/8/11 at 11:44am
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRO710HD View Post

Thought I'd add some feedback for reliability.

I bought and 82838 last Octoberwhich replaced my beloved Pioneer Elite PRO710HD (64" RPTV). I love the size and picture of the TV without a doubt. It did have some geometry issues but I placed a trouble call and a tech came out and tweaked it to look very reasonable.

I've had the set shut off by itself with light blinking 3 times since then but it hasn't done this for about 4 months. It has also given me a blank "black screen" on several occasions (about 12 times altogether) on power up and also when switching inputs say from DVD to U-verse. Other than that it's been solid.

So my question is: since the warranty is up in late October, I only have about a month and a half left. I've never bought and extened warranty on ANYTHING I've owned but I have to admit that I'm considering it now because of the aforementioned problems.

Any advice?

Extended warranties are a BIG money maker for the companies selling them. When I worked at Radio Shack while I was going through college, we had pretty significant incentives to sell the warranties (I was never pushy about it because I really don't believe in buying them myself). My advice is to put some money into a CD or other reasonably safe investment (so probably not stocks these days ) to collect interest and save it in case you need to pay for a repair.
Reply
Reply
post #7835 of 8689
9/8/11 at 12:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

My advice is to put some money into a CD or other reasonably safe investment (so probably not stocks these days ) to collect interest and save it in case you need to pay for a repair.

I agree. Thanks for the advice. I might try to call MITS and at least get the trouble logged in case it comes back for whatever it's worth after the warranty
Reply
Reply
post #7836 of 8689
9/8/11 at 1:01pm
Hi, I just ordered an "open box" 65738 from Circuit City for $800.

I've never purchased an open box product, and am not sure what to expect. If there are any others that have bought one, how was your experience? Was everything in the box? I'd also like to know how many hours I can expect on the bulb. Thanks.
Reply
Reply
post #7837 of 8689
9/8/11 at 1:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by daneklarer View Post

Hi, I just ordered an "open box" 65738 from Circuit City for $800.

I've never purchased an open box product, and am not sure what to expect. If there are any others that have bought one, how was your experience? Was everything in the box? I'd also like to know how many hours I can expect on the bulb. Thanks.

I got my open box 65738 from tigerdirect.com about 4 months ago. No issues. Came packaged all well and good. Only thing missing was the manual (easy enough to find on the net). My bulb had just under 80 hours on it.
Reply
Reply
post #7838 of 8689
9/8/11 at 4:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

Have them get a programmable remote with macros. Setup a macro that turns everything off at the same time. Something reasonable (such as one of the lower end Logitech Harmony remotes) can be bought for less than the cost of a replacement bulb. Or just tell them to turn the TV off when they aren't using it. But cutting power to the TV is a recipe for trouble and definitely not recommended.

Stupid thing is I programmed the cable box remote with the tv code to be really honest I don't think they know it uses a bulb (they just brought it for it size) and I bet they don't know it has optional 3D
Reply
Reply
post #7839 of 8689
9/8/11 at 6:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by daneklarer View Post

Hi, I just ordered an "open box" 65738 from Circuit City for $800.

I've never purchased an open box product, and am not sure what to expect. If there are any others that have bought one, how was your experience? Was everything in the box? I'd also like to know how many hours I can expect on the bulb. Thanks.

I got my 73838 open box from Amazon Warehouse Deals - it was in good shape, but the manual / remote were for a 65638 model, so the remote was missing buttons (the Internet button was the only one I really needed) so I ended up ordering a replacemement remote.
Reply
Reply
post #7840 of 8689
9/8/11 at 6:24pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

Extended warranties are a BIG money maker for the companies selling them. When I worked at Radio Shack while I was going through college, we had pretty significant incentives to sell the warranties (I was never pushy about it because I really don't believe in buying them myself). My advice is to put some money into a CD or other reasonably safe investment (so probably not stocks these days ) to collect interest and save it in case you need to pay for a repair.

I don't completely agree with that. I never buy extended warranties, but I made an exception with my 65737. IIRC it was only about $120 for 3 years, and most of the guys on the 737 thread were buying them because of my liklyhood of issues with these TV's. Of course now that I have it, i'll probably never have a problem
Reply
Reply
post #7841 of 8689
9/8/11 at 6:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Av8tr View Post

I don't completely agree with that. I never buy extended warranties, but I made an exception with my 65737. IIRC it was only about $120 for 3 years, and most of the guys on the 737 thread were buying them because of my liklyhood of issues with these TV's. Of course now that I have it, i'll probably never have a problem

I can't think of a product I've owned where I've either made use of the extended warranty that I purchased OR would have had a use for one if I had purchased it aside from one exception. That one exception was a used 1995 Land Rover Discovery that I purchased in 1997 (and no longer own) - but even then I only roughly broke even on the cost of the warranty. I've had a few products that required repairs after extended ownership (a Krell amp I owned for around 8 years or so, for example), but when the problems happened most extended warranties would have long expired or the cost of continually extending the warranties would have far exceeded the cost of the repairs. Prior to my WD-82838, I owned a WD-65835 and prior to that, I owned a WS-65809 (I think that's the correct model - it was a 65" Diamond Series CRT RPTV) and neither had any problems that would have been covered by a warranty (the CRT set developed minor burn in from watching too much 4:3 programming). The WD-65835 is now owned by a friend and has no issues and the original bulb is still good. The fact of the matter is that extended warranties are HUGE money makers for the companies that sell them. If someone wants to spend the money on a warranty for the piece of mind, that's fine. Just don't expect to come out ahead in the deal .
Reply
Reply
post #7842 of 8689
9/9/11 at 4:16am
How long should I keep the box my TV came in? The delivery guy said keep the box in case something was wrong with it, but it's been running fine. I got it over a month ago and I'd like to throw it away.

What are your guys doing in this regard?

Peace,

DM
Reply
Reply
post #7843 of 8689
9/9/11 at 5:33am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavoM View Post

How long should I keep the box my TV came in? The delivery guy said keep the box in case something was wrong with it, but it's been running fine. I got it over a month ago and I'd like to throw it away.

Mine is up in the attic with the rest of the original boxes for all my electronic stuff.
Reply
Reply
post #7844 of 8689
9/9/11 at 8:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavoM View Post

How long should I keep the box my TV came in? The delivery guy said keep the box in case something was wrong with it, but it's been running fine. I got it over a month ago and I'd like to throw it away.

What are your guys doing in this regard?

Peace,

DM

I would only keep it for 90 days at most because Mitsubishi will never take it back, they will only repair it. Maybe if you get it locally, the local B&M store might take it back within the first 90 days at most. It's probably closer to the first 30 days.
Reply
Reply
post #7845 of 8689
9/9/11 at 9:22am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I would only keep it for 90 days at most because Mitsubishi will never take it back, they will only repair it. Maybe if you get it locally, the local B&M store might take it back within the first 90 days at most. It's probably closer to the first 30 days.

If it has to leave your house for any repairs, it would be a lot safer to transport it in the original box than without. If you've got the space available, it's always a good idea to keep original boxes for stuff like this. If space is tight, that's another matter.
Reply
Reply
post #7846 of 8689
9/9/11 at 3:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

If it has to leave your house for any repairs, it would be a lot safer to transport it in the original box than without. If you've got the space available, it's always a good idea to keep original boxes for stuff like this. If space is tight, that's another matter.

I've had Mitsubishi TV's since 1980 and never have I had to send a TV back for repair. The technician will come to your house and diagnose it and get the part for it and then come back and install the part. You don't ever have to send the TV in for repair especially for these big screen TVs.
Reply
Reply
post #7847 of 8689
9/9/11 at 6:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I've had Mitsubishi TV's since 1980 and never have I had to send a TV back for repair. The technician will come to your house and diagnose it and get the part for it and then come back and install the part. You don't ever have to send the TV in for repair especially for these big screen TVs.

True, but there' something instinctive to me about keeping that box for the 1yr manufacturer's warranty.
Reply
Reply
post #7848 of 8689
9/9/11 at 8:31pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post


I've had Mitsubishi TV's since 1980 and never have I had to send a TV back for repair. The technician will come to your house and diagnose it and get the part for it and then come back and install the part. You don't ever have to send the TV in for repair especially for these big screen TVs.

Never say never. My local authorized repair dealer did take my 62725 for repair. They did not want to use the box (which I still had). They had straps and blankets for their van which had another big screen TV in it.
Reply
Reply
post #7849 of 8689
9/9/11 at 8:41pm
I can imagine their dilemma if or when a repairer with a van feels they need to take a 92" back to the shop.
Reply
Reply
post #7850 of 8689
9/10/11 at 6:26am
Thanks for all the responses folks. I think I'm going to chunk the box. I'm in Florida, so my attic space is nil. I bought it from Paul's TV and AFAICT, the first 30 days is the only period where they mention that the original box would be needed.

I am loving my 82738. Going shopping for a pair of 3D glasses today.

Peace,

DM
Reply
Reply
post #7851 of 8689
9/10/11 at 2:49pm
so i got my new tv and i checked out the quality with the avatar. I WAS AMAZED! the movie looks sooooooooooooooo good, unbelievable!


then i watched a french movie called point blank and while i was looking down to the subtitles sometimes i saw red and green colors popping up here and there not too annoying but i did see them. ( i know its the rainbow effect)

actually i only saw it when looking down and up and down and up because of the subtitles. But the colorful lines are so fast i cant really make anything out of it. Im not sure whats so colorful on the screen where are the red/green lines are coming from but my brain do recognize them...

hard to explain... when i move my eyes i dont see where is the rainbow effect ... so if there is a car on fire i dont know if the fire has red/green lines or the car or the horse in the background but after i moved y eyes and they are stopped on the subtitle i know i saw something.
i guess there is nothing to do about it ( besides not using subtitles)


avatar looked awesome and i really didnt see any RBE
Reply
Reply
post #7852 of 8689
9/10/11 at 6:40pm
What's the speed of the color wheel on the WD-73c10?

Only time I notice the rainbow effect is if I shift my eyes around but still focus on the tv but still not that often that I see it.
Reply
Reply
post #7853 of 8689
9/10/11 at 7:30pm
Am I correct in understanding that IF I get Samsung 3d starter kit for 2010 models that I will need to acquire 3d emitter? If so, where would be the cheapest source for one?
Reply
Reply
post #7854 of 8689
9/10/11 at 7:38pm
Hey guys; used to visit this thread frequently when I got my 65738 back in December but haven't been here in a while. What is the firmware up to now on these sets? What does it fix (or break)? I don't remember what my current version is. I know I've only updated it twice from the original; the one that updated it to not need the converter and the one right after.

If anyone is using an HTPC with your set I could use some advice. I got a 6570 video card so that I could play 3D movies, and I tried all kinds of combinations of settings in PowerDVD 10 and the TV. I hoped that setting everything to "Automatic" would work but I did not get that lucky. With PDVD set to auto, the TV's sensor never comes on so the glasses don't work. After trying different things, I set PDVD's 3D output to side by side, the 3D display type to 1080p/24, and the Mits's setting to Automatic. Using A Christmas Carol, this ended up working. I didn't really understand why this worked. It seemed incorrect to me.
Reply
Reply
post #7855 of 8689
9/11/11 at 8:02am
I had 2 flying insects inside the set yesterday. They weren't on the inside of the screen surface since their apparent size changed as their images moved across the screen. So they must have been down on the projector. For hours, their images crawled back and forth. I've read enough posts about this problem over the past few months to know that the only feasible solution was to wait 2 or 3 days for them to die. Instead, I turned the set off and waited for the lamp to cool down, then I sprayed a couple shots of flying insect killer mist across the rear grill openings being careful that the mist only got on the grill and that I didn't get the inside of the set wet. Then I positioned a couple of extremely bright led flashlights by the rear grills to attract the bugs to where I sprayed. I waited another couple of hours then turned the set back on. I haven't seen the bugs since. I can't say if my method was what banished the annoying bugs. I'm just glad they're gone.
Reply
Reply
post #7856 of 8689
9/11/11 at 10:34am
only SBS would work on the mitsu or you have to get the 3d kit so the box would change any incoming 3d signal to checkered which also works on the Mitsu tv
Reply
Reply
post #7857 of 8689
9/11/11 at 11:50am
I'm thinking about getting a WD-65738 from OneCall (sold through Amazon).
Hoping to get some help from owners here.

1) How does the unit hook up wirelessly to the internet? From what I understand, there is a separate device I need to purchase but I don't know what that is.

2) There is a 3DC-1000 3D HDTV Starter Pack being sold at Amazon for $306. Does this 3D kit work well or is there a better performing emitter/glasses kit I should consider?

Thank you for any feedback.
Reply
Reply
post #7858 of 8689
9/12/11 at 6:57am
Hey guys I need some help. I recently upgraded from a old Harmony 676 to the Harmony One. Everything worked for my 82738 so i did the migration to the One and have spent hours trying to get my activity that used HDMI2 to switch. No matter what i try, nothing seems to correct the issue. I even deleted the activity and the tv and redid everything and still no go.

1.) Set the 82738 up and had the harmony learn the discrete command for hdmi2. Tried to learn the original name of HDMIi2 and also created a new command named HDMI(2) and did the raw learn. After saving and updating the remote if i switch on the remote to device "TV" and click either one the tv switches every time.

The problem is when i add an activity and tell it to use HDMI2 is flat out does not work. Next, I tried my HDMI(2) input in the activity and mapped it to the HDMI2 and still no go. Next I deleted the HDMI2 input and manually inputted HDMI(2) for the activity and still no go.


At this point i gave up as my Harmony One was about to go flying threw a window. A day later i decide to give it another try. I went back to the tv device settings and changed the remote from the 3rd input option to the first for how the original remote handles input switching. Played around with different settings, deleted the activity, re-added, and still no go. I'm stumped at this point.

Anyone who can help would have a huge fan lol. I called Harmony support but they weren't any help.
Reply
Reply
post #7859 of 8689
9/12/11 at 7:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ugabuga View Post

Hey guys I need some help. I recently upgraded from a old Harmony 676 to the Harmony One. ...

Anyone who can help would have a huge fan lol. I called Harmony support but they weren't any help.

I've had to call and insist on Harmony tech support level 3 before there is anyone able to help on all my Mitsubishi TVs. For some reason, the Mits TVs are different in changing the inputs than all other TVs. Level 3 has been able to help in all cases.
Reply
Reply
post #7860 of 8689
9/13/11 at 12:33pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ugabuga View Post

Hey guys I need some help. I recently upgraded from a old Harmony 676 to the Harmony One. Everything worked for my 82738 so i did the migration to the One and have spent hours trying to get my activity that used HDMI2 to switch. No matter what i try, nothing seems to correct the issue. I even deleted the activity and the tv and redid everything and still no go.

1.) Set the 82738 up and had the harmony learn the discrete command for hdmi2. Tried to learn the original name of HDMIi2 and also created a new command named HDMI(2) and did the raw learn. After saving and updating the remote if i switch on the remote to device "TV" and click either one the tv switches every time.

The problem is when i add an activity and tell it to use HDMI2 is flat out does not work. Next, I tried my HDMI(2) input in the activity and mapped it to the HDMI2 and still no go. Next I deleted the HDMI2 input and manually inputted HDMI(2) for the activity and still no go.


At this point i gave up as my Harmony One was about to go flying threw a window. A day later i decide to give it another try. I went back to the tv device settings and changed the remote from the 3rd input option to the first for how the original remote handles input switching. Played around with different settings, deleted the activity, re-added, and still no go. I'm stumped at this point.

Anyone who can help would have a huge fan lol. I called Harmony support but they weren't any help.

I had the same problem... You need to get the remote in Direct Access Mode... Try this thread, it worked for me:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1160370
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units

Gear mentioned in this thread:

AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › 2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series)