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2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 273

post #8161 of 8689
12/30/11 at 9:48am
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post


1) Mitsubishi is no longer making any new models smaller than 73", so if barrister wants a smaller DLP, the models from the previous year are his best option.

2) Mitsubishi doesn't typically announce new models until sometime in the spring and they usually don't start shipping until early summer, so it's still a while before the 738 series is 2 model years old.

Absolutely. Also, I have a 73738 at home along with 5 sets of glasses and I can bring those to the vacation home. I also like the 3D implementation on this series of sets better than others. I really wish they had not discontinued these sizes. They are listed as a special order on the website that you provided and unfortunately are much higher in price than what I paid for my new 73738 ($999).

Maybe someone will eventually blow out some new old stock and I will be there with my checkbook! Given that the vacation home cannot accommodate a 73" set, my options are limited.

Thanks for the link.
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post #8162 of 8689
12/30/11 at 9:57am
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67jason View Post

Lol!! I got my 65" for less then $800 a few months ago!

Open box sales don't count.
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post #8163 of 8689
12/30/11 at 4:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Open box sales don't count.

Got it!
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post #8164 of 8689
12/30/11 at 8:30pm
What are the major differences with the 740 and 840 models?
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post #8165 of 8689
12/31/11 at 9:19am
Anyone able to comment please? Im near pulling the trigger but i want to know if theres massive differences in the 2010 models opposed to the 2011 modes. It will be a gaming set for the most part, are the 2011 models fairly similar to the 2010s?

Im not sure where to discuss the difference between modern day LEDs and modern day DLPs. Thats where im struggling...because of course many people i know have LEDs and swear they are so great for gaming, but im a DLP owner and im trying to figure out without anything visable to the eye which is better and why.

Like if someone could explain or break down the major differences between LEDs and DLPS in terms of what they offer to a user, it would be very much appreciated.

Because right now im so torn, i have my 61" DLP Sammy from 06 that i want to upgrade but im sort of not sure if i should roll with a 73 or 82 DLP, or go for a comparably sized tv that is an LCD/LED.

Again im sorry if this isnt the place to compare but im just not sure where else to take it on here.
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post #8166 of 8689
12/31/11 at 12:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Savatage316 View Post

Anyone able to comment please? Im near pulling the trigger but i want to know if theres massive differences in the 2010 models opposed to the 2011 modes. It will be a gaming set for the most part, are the 2011 models fairly similar to the 2010s?

Im not sure where to discuss the difference between modern day LEDs and modern day DLPs. Thats where im struggling...because of course many people i know have LEDs and swear they are so great for gaming, but im a DLP owner and im trying to figure out without anything visable to the eye which is better and why.

Like if someone could explain or break down the major differences between LEDs and DLPS in terms of what they offer to a user, it would be very much appreciated.

Because right now im so torn, i have my 61" DLP Sammy from 06 that i want to upgrade but im sort of not sure if i should roll with a 73 or 82 DLP, or go for a comparably sized tv that is an LCD/LED.

Again im sorry if this isnt the place to compare but im just not sure where else to take it on here.

Where to start?

Better Prices
Bigger Sizes
Better motion (no LCD motion blur, no gaming lag)
No crosstalk/ghosting for 3D.
No screen door effect
No flashlighting/clouding (edge lit LCD)

There is a place for LCD/LED, but for what you seem to be looking for, DLP works nicely.
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post #8167 of 8689
12/31/11 at 12:45pm
Discrete remote code for speakers on/off?

Anyone find it so can be added as a separate command to programmable remotes?

I've found discrete codes for power on/off, hdmi ports, all kinds of things BUT the ability to turn speakers off, not mute, going into activities that use external amp, back on when closing that activity for my Harmony remote.
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post #8168 of 8689
12/31/11 at 1:27pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Where to start?

Better Prices
Bigger Sizes
Better motion (no LCD motion blur, no gaming lag)
No crosstalk/ghosting for 3D.
No screen door effect
No flashlighting/clouding (edge lit LCD)

There is a place for LCD/LED, but for what you seem to be looking for, DLP works nicely.

I guess the question i have is this, im not like a videophile so i sort of catch up on this stuff when im purchasing. But from a non bias to DLP point of view, what pros do the LCD/LEDs have in comparison? Not saying that was a bias opinion btw, i just mean if you had to pick any pros what would they be.

Im most likely going with a DLP since i like size, i just sort of want to get the best bang for my buck...and ive heard many people talk about how great gaming is on LCD/LEDs are but i never took much stock in that really or anything, i just guess i want to make sure if i make a purchase its a good one.

Now i know there is almost a thread for everything but are the 73" DLPs pretty top notch? I dont think i have the cash for the 82" newer models unless i can find one around 1600ish on sale. So im eyeballing the 73"s, are they the newest models of that size?
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post #8169 of 8689
12/31/11 at 4:54pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Savatage316 View Post

I guess the question i have is this, im not like a videophile so i sort of catch up on this stuff when im purchasing. But from a non bias to DLP point of view, what pros do the LCD/LEDs have in comparison? Not saying that was a bias opinion btw, i just mean if you had to pick any pros what would they be.

Im most likely going with a DLP since i like size, i just sort of want to get the best bang for my buck...and ive heard many people talk about how great gaming is on LCD/LEDs are but i never took much stock in that really or anything, i just guess i want to make sure if i make a purchase its a good one.

Now i know there is almost a thread for everything but are the 73" DLPs pretty top notch? I dont think i have the cash for the 82" newer models unless i can find one around 1600ish on sale. So im eyeballing the 73"s, are they the newest models of that size?

The biggest con for dlp to me is bulb life but Mits has minimized it some by reducing bulb costs. Next would be the somewhat narrow viewing angles. Next would be reliablilty(I'm currently waiting on a replacement light engine). Mine still works but the tint and brightness flickers.

I game on my 2010 model 73838(it's mostly what I use it for) and it works great. Considering that the 82" uses the same bulb as the 73" I'd stick with the 73" as I would be afraid the 82" wouldn't have enough pop for gaming.

I've gamed on lcd flat panels and plasma's, lcd/lcos front projectors, etc. and dlp has been the smoothest display I've used. Sports/rapid movement is much more natural on dlp as well.
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post #8170 of 8689
12/31/11 at 5:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by KenWH View Post

The biggest con for dlp to me is bulb life but Mits has minimized it some by reducing bulb costs. Next would be the somewhat narrow viewing angles. Next would be reliablilty(I'm currently waiting on a replacement light engine).

Other cons:

- Less than perfect geometry (so straight lines aren't perfectly straight - can be noticeable in things like program guides).
- Overscan can be a nuisance when trying to use something like a PC as all 4 edges of the Windows desktop get cropped.
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post #8171 of 8689
12/31/11 at 6:36pm
Is the 73" inch thats currently out the newest model? Im going from a 61" that i got in 06, and i just want and hope that the upgrade is worth it really thats all...it sounds like it is.

And they are running 120hz?
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post #8172 of 8689
1/1/12 at 8:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Savatage316 View Post

Is the 73" inch thats currently out the newest model? Im going from a 61" that i got in 06, and i just want and hope that the upgrade is worth it really thats all...it sounds like it is.

And they are running 120hz?

What's your priority? Size, price, picture quality? The price/size ratio(and the lack of motion blur) sealed the deal for me. Geometry is a minor complaint(mostly unnoticeable), but reliability can be a factor(going on my 2nd main board). Most consumers have price as the no.1 determining factor, and that's where DLP shines. I have the 82", and I do think it's a tad dim. I'd go w/ the 73" if that's a concern. Then again, I'm one that expects(all things being equal) that smaller displays generally look "better".
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post #8173 of 8689
1/1/12 at 4:40pm
Do these sets have the HDMI Audio Return Channel ? Do I need to connect or be concerned if and if not ? I ask this question as I have a new AV receiver that has that option on the HDMI out to TV.
Thanks for any info.
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post #8174 of 8689
1/1/12 at 5:37pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Savatage316 View Post

Is the 73" inch thats currently out the newest model? Im going from a 61" that i got in 06, and i just want and hope that the upgrade is worth it really thats all...it sounds like it is.

And they are running 120hz?

The WD-73C11, WD-73640, WD-73740, and WD-73840 are this years models

I see lamp replacement as a plus. While plasmas and LCDs fade over time, a DLP becomes like new again with each lamp replacement. The lamp is $99 and comes in a slide in cartridge that takes all of 3 minutes to replace.

LCDs need 120 HZ or better to make up for deficiencies such as motion blur. DLPs and plasma do not, but plasmas advertise as much as 600Hz "subfield rate" to compete with the "more is better" 120 Hz crowd though it is still a 60Hz picture. Likewise, DLPs advertise a 120Hz "subframe" rate, the exception being that the sub frames are actually used in 3D to give you 120Hz per eye. DLPs still use 3:2 pulldown to get from 24Hz to 60Hz.

Reliability is a factor with all brands and makes of sets. I had problems with a 2007 set, and Mitsubishi replaced it with a larger, higher tier 2008 model, over one year out of warranty. They stand behind their brand. Funny thing is, if they hadn't, I would have still bought another Mitsubishi to replace it.
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post #8175 of 8689
1/1/12 at 5:40pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ray77085 View Post

Do these sets have the HDMI Audio Return Channel ? Do I need to connect or be concerned if and if not ? I ask this question as I have a new AV receiver that has that option on the HDMI out to TV.
Thanks for any info.

No, and I don't know of any sets that are using it yet. I don't see why one would need it, unless one was watching OTA, and did not want to run separate audio from the TV to the AVR. It's really just a convenience. With cable or satellite, you'll never use it.
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post #8176 of 8689
1/1/12 at 5:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

No, and I don't know of any sets that are using it yet. I don't see why one would need it, unless one was watching OTA, and did not want to run separate audio to the AVR. It's really just a convenience.

Ok,
Cool and thanks for the information. I just want to make the connections once.
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post #8177 of 8689
1/1/12 at 6:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

Yes, but how many 60" 3D TVs can you find for under $1000, and how many 65" 3D TVs can you find for under $1300?



Got my 60738 for 799.00 last january
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post #8178 of 8689
1/1/12 at 7:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoe1028 View Post

Got my 60738 for 799.00 last january



I meant non-DLP TVs. We already know DLPs are cheaper. But while we're on the subject: http://www.reuters.com/article/2011/...7BQ0KK20111227

Quote:


LCD makers settle price-fixing case for $553 million


Tue Dec 27, 2011 2:46pm EST

(Reuters) - Samsung Electronics Co, Sharp Corp and five other makers of liquid crystal displays agreed to pay more than $553 million to settle consumer and state regulatory claims that they conspired to fix prices for LCD panels in televisions, notebook computers and monitors. The settlement is the latest arising from lawsuits alleging the creation of an international cartel designed to illegally inflate prices and stifle competition in LCD panels...

Might explain wht prices are coming down this year.
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post #8179 of 8689
1/1/12 at 9:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

The WD-73C11, WD-73640, WD-73740, and WD-73840 are this years models

I see lamp replacement as a plus. While plasmas and LCDs fade over time, a DLP becomes like new again with each lamp replacement. The lamp is $99 and comes in a slide in cartridge that takes all of 3 minutes to replace.

LCDs need 120 HZ or better to make up for deficiencies such as motion blur. DLPs and plasma do not, but plasmas advertise as much as 600Hz "subfield rate" to compete with the "more is better" 120 Hz crowd though it is still a 60Hz picture. Likewise, DLPs advertise a 120Hz "subframe" rate, the exception being that the sub frames are actually used in 3D to give you 120Hz per eye. DLPs still use 3:2 pulldown to get from 24Hz to 60Hz.

Reliability is a factor with all brands and makes of sets. I had problems with a 2007 set, and Mitsubishi replaced it with a larger, higher tier 2008 model, over one year out of warranty. They stand behind their brand. Funny thing is, if they hadn't, I would have still bought another Mitsubishi to replace it.

Whats the main differences between models would you say?
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post #8180 of 8689
1/2/12 at 7:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Savatage316 View Post

Whats the main differences between models would you say?

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/theater.html

models listed at bottom

The 73C11 and 73640 are basically the same. The 73740 adds

StreamTV Internet Media (VUDU Apps)
Wireless Internet Ready (Optional Adapter)

Internal 3D Glasses IR Emitter

iPhone/iPod Touch Remote Control App

Remote Control with Internet Controls
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post #8181 of 8689
1/2/12 at 11:57pm
LOOKING FOR SOME HELP WITH 3D SETUP. I finally got all my equipment setup. I did not plan on being one of the members who asked ANOTHER 3d question, but here I am! I really like the picture on this TV, amazing.

Much appreciated any help anyone can offer.

Equipment:
1) TV: WD 82738 w 12.07 firmware
2) BluRay: LG BD 670 1.4a (Set to auto 3d)
3) A/V: Onkyo TX-NR609 1.4a
4) 3D: Heaven Ultra Clear 3d Glasses (IR) + imitter

Problem 1: 3D Auto mode is not working
Problem 2: When selecting 3D side by side mode it goes into 3d mode! BUT the image does not look "correct" when glasses are on. A little hard to explain but the image does not look aligned correctly. It is like the images are crossing over too much and the image you see is not clear.

I thought it was maybe me only but my wife has confirmed the same.

Debug steps:
1) Bypassed Onkyo and straight to TV from bluray, no difference for Auto or side by side
2) Reverse mode selected - no change, maybe even worse
3) Tried checkerboard and other modes, no help

The TV gets very light use and more often then not I have to factory reset for the source image to be displayed as when I turn it on there is only a green screen (regardless of input selected). WONDERING if this has anything to do with it. I know the TV needs a repair, have not made it a priority.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
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post #8182 of 8689
1/3/12 at 9:09am
I've searched all the threads and can't seem to find out if you can see how much bulb life is left. I have a 73838 I bought last January with ext warranty and want to have a bulb in hand when the original goes. When the bulb goes is it a slow dimming process or does it just pop and go dark?

Thanks in advance for any advice
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post #8183 of 8689
1/3/12 at 9:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cshaws View Post

I've searched all the threads and can't seem to find out if you can see how much bulb life is left. I have a 73838 I bought last January with ext warranty and want to have a bulb in hand when the original goes. When the bulb goes is it a slow dimming process or does it just pop and go dark?

Thanks in advance for any advice

You can go into the service menu and find out how many hours the bulb has been used - the service menu access code can be found in this thread (if you go into the service menu, BE CAREFUL as it's reasonably easy to screw things up and make the set unusable). But as far as how much life is left, the bulb will last until it blows (just like a normal light bulb) or you feel it has dimmed to the point where you need to replace it. The bulbs don't really have a predetermined number of hours of life (I'm sure Mits has an expected average lifetime target, but the actual number of hours can be affected by a lot of things).
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post #8184 of 8689
1/3/12 at 10:32pm
Anyone have a few pics they could post or take of their 82"s? What would be nice is if someone has Skyrim going on an 82 by chance and could snap a clean pic, just would love to see how the 82"s look in terms of brightness or get an idea at least.
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post #8185 of 8689
1/4/12 at 10:42am
LOOKING FOR SOME HELP WITH 3D SETUP. I finally got all my equipment setup. I did not plan on being one of the members who asked ANOTHER 3d question, but here I am! I really like the picture on this TV, amazing.

Much appreciated any help anyone can offer.

Equipment:
1) TV: WD 82738 w 12.07 firmware
2) BluRay: LG BD 670 1.4a (Set to auto 3d)
3) A/V: Onkyo TX-NR609 1.4a
4) 3D: Heaven Ultra Clear 3d Glasses (IR) + imitter

Problem 1: 3D Auto mode is not working
Problem 2: When selecting 3D side by side mode it goes into 3d mode! BUT the image does not look "correct" when glasses are on. A little hard to explain but the image does not look aligned correctly. It is like the images are crossing over too much and the image you see is not clear.

I thought it was maybe me only but my wife has confirmed the same.

Debug steps:
1) Bypassed Onkyo and straight to TV from bluray, no difference for Auto or side by side
2) Reverse mode selected - no change, maybe even worse
3) Tried checkerboard and other modes, no help

The TV gets very light use and more often then not I have to factory reset for the source image to be displayed as when I turn it on there is only a green screen (regardless of input selected). WONDERING if this has anything to do with it. I know the TV needs a repair, have not made it a priority.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
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post #8186 of 8689
1/4/12 at 10:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by troye View Post

LOOKING FOR SOME HELP WITH 3D SETUP. I finally got all my equipment setup. I did not plan on being one of the members who asked ANOTHER 3d question, but here I am! I really like the picture on this TV, amazing.

Much appreciated any help anyone can offer.

Equipment:
1) TV: WD 82738 w 12.07 firmware
2) BluRay: LG BD 670 1.4a (Set to auto 3d)
3) A/V: Onkyo TX-NR609 1.4a
4) 3D: Heaven Ultra Clear 3d Glasses (IR) + imitter

Problem 1: 3D Auto mode is not working
Problem 2: When selecting 3D side by side mode it goes into 3d mode! BUT the image does not look "correct" when glasses are on. A little hard to explain but the image does not look aligned correctly. It is like the images are crossing over too much and the image you see is not clear.

I thought it was maybe me only but my wife has confirmed the same.

Debug steps:
1) Bypassed Onkyo and straight to TV from bluray, no difference for Auto or side by side
2) Reverse mode selected - no change, maybe even worse
3) Tried checkerboard and other modes, no help

The TV gets very light use and more often then not I have to factory reset for the source image to be displayed as when I turn it on there is only a green screen (regardless of input selected). WONDERING if this has anything to do with it. I know the TV needs a repair, have not made it a priority.

Any ideas?

There's no need to repost the entire message just 4 posts below the original message.

I don't see much point trying to diagnose 3D issues until you get what sounds like a pretty major issue with the TV resolved first. Once you get the TV fixed, it sounds like you have otherwise tried everything EXCEPT for ruling out the 3D glasses or 3D IR emitter as the problem.
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post #8187 of 8689
1/4/12 at 12:44pm
I'm using the DLP link glasses for my 65738 and I think I had to set it to "Reverse" but don't recall since it's been almost a year since I set it up.
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post #8188 of 8689
1/4/12 at 10:45pm
So i Have a wd-73c9 was wondering if anyone else is trying to use a htpc with a ati radeon 5450 card....what can i do fix the clarity...i would like to get the ps3(if you know what im getting at) clarity out of it but dont know what to do...any help would rock
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post #8189 of 8689
1/5/12 at 9:06am
I have the 60738. I have the ultimate heaven 3d DLP Link Glasses. I bought sanctum 3D. I have the Panasonic DMPBDT210. I CANNOT get the 3d to work. I have software version 12.08. I sit about 6-8 ft directly in front of the screen. The screen has a double/blurry look, but I'm not sure if the glasses aren't syncing or I need to change something. Can anyone give me some advice I what I might be doing wrong? Has anyone succesfully used the glasses and a Mitsu? Help me please! Thanks in advance!
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post #8190 of 8689
1/5/12 at 10:41am
May sound like a dumb questions but the easy answers first is usually a good method.

1. Did you turn on DLP Link in the TV 3D Menu? - the default is OFF.
2. Is the TV set to AUTOMATIC for a signal format? This memorized separatly for each input.
3. Did you put batteries in the glasses and turn on the glasses? (or charge the batteries if you got the rechargable type?)
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AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › 2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series)