2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 277

I just changed it to "bright" because it was noticably dimmer. Guess I could go back to the standard setting and tweak the settings in the picture menu?

Should I buy a replacement lamp from Mitsu or save money and buy from one of the many sellers on Amazon?

OK, I'v'e been noticing the flicker problem on my 73738 purchased in June of 2011, the problem seems to have started after I had my first shut down after only 15 mins of the set being on , this happened in Dec 2011 and one more shut down 20 days later. The flicker started on the left side and would only be intermittent for 5-10 min or until I used the Bright mode and then switched back to my Advanced settings. The set has been run in eco mode since day one and now has 1600 hrs on the bulb, there is no dimness to the picture at all and it still has the same brightness (28 and contrast 52) level as when I first set it via Spears and Munsil. I called Mits today and after the usual first level of customer service, I finally spoke with a service guy who promptly said he would get a light engine out to a local service tech, Iv'e noticed the earlier post that said it may be a bulb problem as I have yet to check and see for myself, but I'm thinking I'll let the tech trouble shoot it the same day since I really only want to have to move it once.

Any advice would greatly be appreciated!

Here's what happened with my flickering 73738. I do want to mention that the problem was totally random, and you could never predict when it would happen, usually just in the middle of a movie or a tv watching evening. It never seemed to do it when the tech was out.

Tech first replaced the light engine, and it didn't make a difference.

He then came back and replaced the ballast, again no difference.

Finally, he replaced the bulb, and ever since he did, not a single flicker.

He said this was the order Mitsubishi wanted him to do it in. I suggested the bulb first. My TV was less than a year old and I didn't look at the bulb hours but the TV was only used lightly, a few nights a week and occasionally on weekends, so it was nowhere near the end of bulb life. The flicker had happened pretty much since I had the set and eventually I just got sick of it and called the tech.

Thanks! my set is less than a year old as well, Do you think they will just send a bulb out first? Or should I just let them replace the light engine, also did it affect your geometry settings?

My geometry was never great to begin with and no better with the light engine.

I had spent a lot of time in the service menus to try and get rid of some of the severe curves especially in the vertical but then I read somewhere as soon as you start to manually correct you lose 1:1 pixel mapping which can negatively effect quality in other areas. So I have just sort of lived with this set and its notoriously bad geometry and tried to ignore it when I view program guides, etc.

I don't think a new light engine will fix a TV with bad geometry though, I think there's a lot more going on there to cause the curves.

Yeah like the screen itself, I just had to correct it, on wide screen movies that curve at the top was far to distracting. the tech called today and said he would be here Monday, I hope all goes well and its a one stop fix, but after reading your post I just may be in for the long haul

I have some spider webs which I need clean out behind my 65738's projector screen. How would I go about removing the screen itself? Thanks in advance for any advice.

Any one buy a lamp from Amazon with good results ?

I have a professionaly calibrated MITS 73833 waiting to go into a soon to be comlpeted 12X15 media room. The TV was given to me by my Father. After he had it for about 3-4 years the main circut board went and was replaced by an authorized repair. About 4 months later either a second board went or maybe the first, the TV would not go on and the red light just blinked. It has been repaired and it now sits in my house. I have an Onkyo 805 hooked up to a Samsung 5087 DLP. I have heard that the Mits can do checkerboard without the use of the 3d adapter just by using the emitter with the glasses and a 3D source. My source still in the box, is a Panny 310 with dual HDMI. If this TV / receiver combo could pass a checkerboard 3D image could I just connect a single HDMI from my 805 to the 310 and of course output it all to the Mits to get sound and picture? When watching a 2D source can checkerboard remain on and does that degrade the 2D image?

Has anybody ever had the brightness of the picture go down very fast for like 40 seconds while watching tv,kinda like somebody hit a switch

After half a minute the brightness turns back up,but now is not as bright as before

The lamp is 2 months old

And i have it on brilliant

Im also seeing the flickering for a few seconds it happens on random times

The fast few seconds flickering started after what i described above,the screen went dark, i had headphones on so i didn't hear anything

Hey i had the same problem with the flickering like a strobe light for a few seconds

Mitsubishi changed everything, the main board,light engine ,then the ballast , finally last the bulb was changed

The bulb seemed to fix the problem

Now 2 months later my screen went dark & the picture got very dimmed ,like somebody hit a switch then turn it back up

But now the picture is not as bright and the strobe flickering is back

My one year warranty expired with Mitsubishi

But i still have a 2 year extended warranty with dell

So im going to have to go thru this all over again & dell warranty doesnt cover lamps

I think the problem is something else cause like i said the lamp is 2 months old & the last lamp was only 7 months old

The dell tech people are coming over on monday and the flickering happens randomly so he wont see it

What else can they change on the tv to try and fix it ?

Cause buying a $100 lamp every few months is not going to work

Set the 3D output for the 310 to checkerboard and just use the main HDMI output to your 805, it will work fine as checkerboard does not need to have HDMI 1.4 connection to work. I use a Panasonic BD-300 with an Onkyo 875 to my Mits 65837 and it works fine. You can leave the 310 set to checkerboard all the time as it will not be activated until you play a 3D disk, but you should not have the 3D mode set on the HDTV until you are playing a 3D disk as it effect 2D playback quality if it is set to on. Also I have to set the 3D mode to "reverse" for my DLP Link 3D glasses.

Mike T

Anybody ?

Try Mits again and be politely insistent. They fixed it once, and it didn't last, so the warranty might not be an issue. I had a second light engine go bad in my 2006 set a full year out of warranty, and they replaced the set with a new one, no charge. Make sure you get escalated to someone in the California office.

Don't mention any extended warranty. No point in giving them an out. If you get nowhere with Mits, you can always use your ext. warranty as a backup.

Yea but i got the dell warranty tech coming tomorrow

Problem solved, then.

The guy wont know what to do

Cause like everybody here said the problem flickering happens at random times

The light engine,main board & ballast already has been replaced

I dont want to go thru that again

Im going to convince him to change the power source or what ever is called

The tech said he saw a white spot on the screen while it was flickering,which i had never seen

There going to change the optical engine, he said it comes with a color wheel as well

What's the difference between the optical engine and the light engine? My tech said today the light engine has the color wheel in it.

They are the same.

Exact same problem I'm having. They've done the light engine and color wheel so far. I'm about to throw a fit because they are doing EVERYTHING not to give me a bulb.

Is it still under Mitsubishi warranty?

What you can do , go to there site "mitsubishi" fill out a few questions , and in about a week they will send you a lamp

No need to talk to anybody

Just lie on the website and select the option that says your tv is not turning on and has the bad lamp symptoms

It takes only a few minutes,they dont call u to ask any questions or nothing,oh and email them the proof of purchase,at the end of the questions you will see the email or the address where to send it,after a few days they will send you an email back saying its approve, then a week later you will get the tracking number email for ups with the lamp

Dont feel bad about lying , they sold you a defective tv and they know it,

I did it right before my warranty expired cause i had a feeling the damn flickering would be back and i was right, now i have an extra lamp for backup because dell extended warranty doesnr cover the lamp

Last year the Mitsubishi tech told me the light engine & optical engine are different things


Also after they change the optical engine will the geometry of the tv be messed up ?
Is he suppose to do something in the service menu ?

Different names for the same thing. My model's Service Manual lists it as the Optical Engine in the parts list on one page, and calls it both a Light Engine and DLP Engine in the drawings and pictures section. I've also heard it referred to as an Optical Block. It's one unit, a subchassis that contains the lamp, color wheel, DMD, and optics.

He should run a check to make sure the engine is put in straight and adjust the keystone and tilt. He would then copy your settings to the DM using your service menu.

That's what my tech said there both the same! After the new Light engine was installed, I heard less start up wine (about 2 secs instead of 12 to 15)) and got much better geometry than the original no flicker so far and I hope this does the trick. I must admit the set looks better than before, less blur , even light distribution and better testing results from Spears and Munsil's chrome/lum alignment test patterns.

82838 or 82840??
Ok, which set should I buy? I can get the 840 for $100 less than the 838. Any thoughts?
Thanks!
Kevin

I think your question speaks for itself as there's no question which one I would buy.

Yeah, the 840 is the newer and presumably better set. For $100 it seems like a no-brainer as long as the dealer is an authorized dealer.

The 82840 has the Clear Contrast Screen. Definitely the 82840.