2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 278

But, not sure about the clear vue screen, my room is fairly bright. Also, a little concerned about the picture defect I have been reading about on the 740/840 thread. I have not read complaints like that on the 838. Thoughts? Thanks guys for your input!

The best advice is to take a look at one for yourself. If you can't find a retailer near you, Rent-a-Center and Aaron's Sales and Lease carries them, so you can at least get a look at them.

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/locator if your zip code doesn't work, try large cities nearby

They changed the light engine today

I asked him if he needed to do anything in the secret service menu , he said no

I gotta wait a day or 2 to see if the flickering is gone for good

How do you adjust the geometry ?

Can someone answer this question for me.

Does this Dlp support 24p playback?

Yes the Mits do

I currently have a 61" samsung DLP that is about to kick the bucket. It is starting to show white spots which I have read up to determine that this is caused by the DLP chip needing to be replaced/stuck mirrors etc...

I have been looking at the Mitsu 3D DLPs on amazon as I don't want to go smaller than my current 61", LCDs and Plasmas are cost prohibitive.

First, thank you for all who have contributed to this thread, AVS forum is a godsend amongst geeks for researching these kinds of things before buying.

My question is, if you were in my situation would you buy the 73" Mitsu 3D DLP? There are a few different models on amazon, but the 73738 seems to be the best bang for the buck at $1,281. I already have a 5.1 setup and an AVR so no need for the better speakers.

I just don't know if I want to get into the DLP market again after all of the problems I've had with my Samsung, it has severe geometry problems at the bottom of the screen which makes using the HTPC not very fun. Luckily I've never had to replace the lamp.

What are your opinions of a new buyer on this TV?

I own that model and love, love, love it. BEN-HUR and other widescreen epics on Blu-ray really shine at that scale.

However, some have complained about geometry problems on the 73", though not on the 65" or 82". I had minor "sag" on mine, but it adjusted right out. Apparently not true for everyone according to posts on this forum.

Thanks for your reply, I am almost ready to pull the trigger on this TV.

Can I ask what you mean by "adjusted right out"?

It does support 24p playback but this set doesn't have native 24p playback. I probably will be talking nonsense since I am nut sure if my terminolgy is correct but it uses a 3:2 pulldown on 24p sources. It isn't native 24p.

This has always confused me. Especially the 3:2 pulldown.

So golden question becomes. Will I have better picture setting my Panasonic Blu-Ray players 24P option "ON" or "OFF"?

I found the best results for my 73738 from my Oppo 95 with rgb video level and 24 on or auto, with 1080p, but from what I hear only bluray uses 24.

I was able to use the service mode to straighten the coordinates, removing the horizontal "sag" in the upper part of the screen. Out of the box it was really only noticeable along the top edge of the image when watching letterboxed content.

The 24 fps (frames per second) needs to change to 60 fps at some point. No matter where this happens, 3:2 pull down will need to be used.

If you send the signal out of the Blu-ray player at 1080p/60Hz (here 60Hz is the same as 60 fps), then the 3:2 pull down is done in the Blu-ray player.

If you send the signal out of the Blu-ray player at 1080p/24Hz, then the 3:2 pull down is done in the TV.

Which one is better? I can't see a difference to my eye, which means it is 6 of one / half a dozen of the other.

The TV must be able to handle 24p (or fps) because when you send frame packing 3D (full HD 3D) from Blu-ray discs, it is send at 24p.

However if you are looking to get rid of the 3:2 pull down judder, this is not going to happen because the TV does not do 120 full frames per second, only 120 sub-frames (half frames) for a 60 full frame per second total.

Thanks for the tip! I'm gonna check this out to see which is better, how about color spacing and deep color?

I have a WD65C9 that my wife knocked the speaker over into it and now it has a hole in the screen. All still works so i just need to replace what im going to call the screen. Does anyone know what the lens/screen is refered to as? Anyone know where i would find th actual part number or part for the replacement? Does anyone have a defective 65c9 or 65837 they are throughing away ( i know wishful thinking). Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

Try each color space, I believe the TV supports both.

As for Deep Color, per the TV specs the TV supports Deep Color go ahead and leave it on or auto.

But Deep Color applies only to sources and source devices that can send Deep Color. For instance you Blu-ray player may be able to send Deep Color but if the Blu-ray disc is not encoded with Deep Color information, then the Bly-ray player normally will not send it - the Blu-ray player does not add information that is not there.

The outside screen is called the Lenticluar Screen and the inside screen is called the Fresnel Lens. The part numbers are in the service manual. The Mitsubishi parts department carries the parts but it is not easy to replace and you shoul have the service manual for instructions.

Thanks for this info. Is it safe to assume since there is a hole it damaged both?

I tried the 1080p/60 (I assume this is the default with 24fps off) and I used the Dark knight as a test and two I noticed right off the bat.

1.) better textures and details
2.) overall smoother picture across the entire screen.

this was great and very detectable to the eye, but there is a substantial increase in judder and I thought on some of the Imax scenes the bulindings where going to fall down Is this normal? I did recently upgrade to the latest firmware for the 95 or is it mostly inherent to the Dark knight? Overall I like the look better than with 24fps on.


this is puzzling I put I Robot in and there are non of the jumping pans and are in fact very smooth and just when I thought this couldn't get any better! Qdeo rocks!

I bought a WD60-738 about 11 months ago, so it's still under warranty thankfully. 2 weeks ago it suddenly won't turn on. Tech comes out with a power board and it blows the main board and power board. He replaces both parts this week and the ballast and the TV will power on but has no picture. Tech has no idea what's wrong, thinks it may need a new bulb but Mitsubishi customer service told him not to replace it. He's come 3 times in 2 weeks and now it's going to Mitsubishi management to figure out what to do with my tv. What are my odds on getting a refund? I imagine they don't make the TV anymore since it's a 2010 model, and I'd honestly rather just get something different, even though I loved the TV.

The odds of getting a newer similar size TV are much more likely than getting a refund. If you have the space, the good news is they don't make anything smaller than 73" now, so you might get a larger TV for no charge.

I would be ok with getting a much bigger TV! Just worried I'd run into problems with it again.

I purchased two lamps with housings on Amazon for about $60 each almost a year ago.
I didn't need one at the time but I didn't know how long that price would last so, knowing I would eventually need to replace the lamp, I bought two of them.

I also had the flickering problem and made several posts about it last year. It seems I was the first to post about the problem and couldn't find anything at all about the flickering after exhaustive searches on the AVS boards and elsewhere on the internet. Now it seems as if many folks are having the problem at the same time.

At first I thought that it was because of heat. I installed fans by the rear vents (search my posts and you will see photos of the set up) It brought the internal temperature down by 15 degrees and it seemed for a while that I solved the problem but soon it started flickering again. I was only able to notice it when using the MITS as my PC monitor when the screen was mostly white. It flickered for several seconds at a time at random intervals. I tried to get MITS to replace the lamp under warranty but the website form would not accept flickering as problem calling for replacement. I'm sure the flickering was not limited to viewing as a PC monitor, but in TV mode I never noticed it.

I put up with it for another month and then the brightness started dimming (after about 5000 lamp hours) so I installed one of the new lamps and lamp housing. That actually gave me a brighter picture than I had when the set was new with the MITS brand lamp and I was thrilled over the now superior picture. The flickering even stopped but only for a couple of months, then it started again but to a much lesser degree. It would flicker for maybe 5 seconds, or so, once or twice a day and again only noticeable in monitor mode with an an all white screen and only in the top left corner. I have read all the recent posts and see that after all sorts of service calls including light engine replacements, no one has yet to figure out the source of the problem, so I decided to just live with it and save the brain damage since it doesn't interfere with watching TV or movies.

Since replacing the bulb had at least some effect in mitigating the flickering, I am led to believe that the problem lies in the the lamp housing circuitry. Possibly a faulty connector. Next time I need to replace the lamp, I will examine the connection and the wiring more closely, but since the flickering does not bother me, I will just leave it till then.

As for the 3rd party bulbs from Amazon, they've worked just as good if not better than the OEM original. I recently bought two more even though it could be years before I need them.

One last thing. The MITS website page where you order warranty replacement lamps flat out sucks. Unless you fill out the form indicating that the bulb is virtually dead, it denies the replacement request. If the lamp is only beginning to fade, you would rightly expect a warranty replacement. If you lie and get a new lamp from them and the lamp you send back is only a bit dimmer and not dead, they will charge your credit card for $100. The best way is to call, explain that the bulb is getting dim but not yet dead and insist on a replacement, that way you've documented the problem truthfully and you won't have to pay for the replacement. The standard lamp warranty is 1 year, but if you purchased an extended warranty as I did, the lamp warranty is also extended.

I hope someone finds something of use from this post. If so, I am glad I was able to pay forward all the great advice I've received from others over the past 2 years.

They replaced the light engine when i made that post^

I haven't seen the flickering since then

Last year they replaced the light engine and tge flickering continued

I don't know but this new light engine looked bigger & the tech said it comes with the color wheel

Almost a month & haven't seen any flickering
The tech was touching & moving a lot of wires inside,so maybe he moved something inside that was causing the flickering, who knows

Can u post a link for those third party lamps
I have a 60c10
I would like a lamp for backup
My Mitsubishi warranty expired

I just clicked on the amazon order link where Ipaid $60 and they are now asking $99. If i find a place selling for less, I'll post it here

Are those lamps any good? Some of the replacement lamps on Amazon got horrible ratings.

Whos going to be the guinea pig to try one of those out first

I purchased 2 of these lamps last year for my MITS 60738.
Shortly thereafter, the original lamp started to dim so I
popped in one of the new (generic) ones. It has been in for
several months now and is working perfectly.
I am retired and disabled and spend most of my time in the
house working on my internet business with the MITS serving
as my PC's monitor. When I'm not working, the set remains
on to watch movies, news or listening to Pandora.
Needless to say, I rack up "lamp hours" quickly.
This morning, I purchased 2 more lamps on Amazon for $52.58
(thanks to Primetime 19 for posting the deal). Now I have 3
spare lamps for future use.

The lamps are from the same Amazon merchant I bought from
last year. I don't know why, but they are constantly changing their
price for the lamps. My purchase last year was $62/ea. Just 3 weeks
ago, they were listing them for $90. The price bobbed up and down
for the past year.

The lamp that's in use now works just as good as the original OEM
lamp and that's all I can report. I certainly cannot guarantee a zero
percent failure rate, but I had enough confidence to buy more before
they changed their price again.