2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 281

I'm starting to think its just the bulb having a bad day due to what ever humidity, temp, power flux or who knows, as I had the engine replaced in mine from the flickering I did see it again, but this time when I called the service place Mits recommend and sent out a new bulb which I haven't put in yet because the problem occurs maybe once or twice a month and the picture is still bright at 2100 hrs.

Can I just replace the bulb or is it better to get the bulb/housing?

I can't find the bulb/housing for cheaper than Shopjimmy at 79.99 and they are ouf of stock

I've had 4 DLPs now and have only replaced one lamp but I bought the housing with it. Never just replaced the bulb alone so don't know?

Getting a lamp without the housing is subject to getting the wrong lamp. The entire lamp plus housing for these models are only $99 directly from Mitsubishi. At least you know you will be getting the lamp that the TV was designed to use. The Owner's guide has the lamp part number and the phone number to call to order directly from Mitsubishi.

Ive never had an issue with replacing just the lamp. It is a simple process and as long as you order the correct one on ebay or wherever you will be fine. Ive replaced a half a dozen or so and not one issue. the older housings had to be modified but the newer ones are more compatible to just a lamp change.

One never really knows what one is getting with aftermarket lamps, and all lamps are not alike. You also get what you pay for.

From the Owners Manual:

Im having a rep take a look at mine soon. apparently there going to replace the mainboard. i have the same issue. the video goes in and out (black screen) mostly when watching 3d movies. i've tried different sources and hdmi cables.

It's only done that w/ me while watching DirecTv recently. I assumed it was on their end. I'm on my 2nd main board, so keep me posted...

Originally Posted by irishred2000
wd-65738 tv screen goes black for a second or two several times a day. It started a month after I got it. At first, it happened a couple times a day, now several times. Does anyone else have the same problem? Should I be concerned? Only Dish HD Dvr is connected. The tv is 9 months old and I brought it brand new. Not refurbished or open box. Thanks!


Im having a rep take a look at mine soon. apparently there going to replace the mainboard. i have the same issue. the video goes in and out (black screen) mostly when watching 3d movies. i've tried different sources and hdmi cables.
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My 60738 blanks out for a second every once in a while. It only happens when I'm watching TV through the Comcast STB or the TIVO. It doesn't happen when I'm watching a movie on the BluRay player, watching through my WD Media Player, watching over-the-air broadcast HDTV with an antenna or using the MITS as a PC monitor. Since I've tried switching HDMI cables, the RF cables and tried each of the 3 HDMI inputs, I can rule out cables or input connectors on the MITS. Two things are common to the problem. The Comcast signal and the M-cards supplied by Comcast and installed in the Comcast and Tivo units.
If anyone can offer another explanation, I would greatly appreciate it.

I come back and read this thread from time to time, just for the great information I always find here... I did not know that you can order the lamp for a WD-82738 directly from Mits for just $99

https://mitsuparts.3diamonds.com/Default.aspx

The last one I bought was from ebay for $75, and I don't know if it was genuine, or oem, or what..... so $99 straight from the manufacture is great. I wish the big B&M's would carry them... My local fry's carries a few DLP bulbs, but NONE for my model (too new they tell me) and they are STILL priced at $299 there.

I've had 4 DLP unit so far, and I've been through at least 4 lamps thoughout the TV's... But my TV is on ** A LOT **. I have small kids and a we always have a stay at home parent.

120hz on the WD82738.

I have the W82738. Love my TV. I have a question, and honestly don't want to re-read the entire 280+ page thread, so if anyone who reads this can help, please let me know.

I have the smooth 120 feature enabled, film mode set to auto. The majority of my movie watching is done from my media center pc at 1080p with 1080p source files. The 120hz on my DLP does NOT show the same as the 120hz I've seen on just about all other LCD/LED units. Since DLP seems to be fading out (on a local retail level anyway) its hard for me to compare my unit against other DLP's since pretty much no body carries them anymore in favor of the slimmer LED units from the likes of sharp (to name 1 I know of, and other manufactures I'm sure).

My mom just got a 60" Sharp aquos with 120hz, and it gives that live soap opera look, which honestly on certain movies is simply amazing looking. I'm guessing that's just the difference between 1 manufacture and another right? Our DLP's simply will not produce that live soap opera look????????

I refer to it as a glassy reflective look. That is actually why I went with DLP with the matte screen. It's the closest to the way the director intended the film to be viewed. Watching on a screen with a liveTV show look can change the mood or tone of the film in ways the director didn't intend. Of course, TV's are made to please consumers, not directors. Choosing a type of big screen TV for a home theater is definitely a matter of taste. However, many stores sell only Plasma or LCD. If the consumer saw them side by side with a DLP and all playing the same film on Blu Ray, I think a large minority would choose the DLP. The lower price would also factor in and the depth of the unit would only be a factor for those planning to mount them on the wall. At least that's how I decided to by my 60738 in 2010.

While scanning the threads about the 2011 and 2012 models, I think I saw a mention of MITs units with reflective rather than matte screens. Someone may want to confirm or correct that.

Could someone point me in the direction of where to find individuals who have posted calibration setting info AFTER having their sets done.
I finally purchased one of these sets. Looking forward to seeing how good it is compared to my 8 year old Hitatichi.

Thanks!

The service center came out and replaced my Mainboard and it fixed my "black out" or lost hdmi signal issue. I did have on problem creep up on me Sunday. I turned on the Tv and it did the same thing only worse.
I tuned on the tv and it would show a picture then turn black, then pop back on for 2 seconds then go back out. It would cycle like that. i tried to switch sources, same problem. I had to hold the power button down for 10 seconds (reset) and it fixed it. I hope that doesn't happen again. I've never had that problem before they replaced the mainboard.

So they replaced the mainboard and the "blacking out does not happen anymore. I still have one issue that is happening. Do any of you have a problem when watching a 3d blueray, the 3d sync doesn't seem right. When the picture is still, looks fine but when stuff is in motion it looks jagged/ out of sync, and gives me a bad headache. The only way for me to correct this is to manually turn off the 3d and turn it back on and eventually it will sync properly.

I have only used dlp link glasses and Mitsubishi tells me that since im not using their 3d glasses that's the problem. Well when I don't have the glasses on and looking at the 3d image on the screen, you can tell the difference in the way the picture looks when it working correctly and when its not.

Ive used multiple sources...3d blueray play and playstation 3. does it on both connected directly to the tv using good 1.4A HDMI cables

Has anybody here had a similar problem like that?

You have the WD-82837, right? What's your current firmware? Version 11.03 is available, and it might be what you need if yours is an older version. http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/support/documents/WD-82837

I have the newer one the 82-738 and I have the current 12.08 firmware. The best way I can describe my issue is when you are watching a 1080p24 movie, the right eye seems to be one frame behind the left eye. you can see it happening on screen even when your not wearing the glasses. Funny thing is I have never had this syncing issue when doing 720p60 3d video and I still dont. Apparently its not a mainboard problem.

I called Mitsubishi yesturday, and they said there "working" on my problem and they will call me back.

So I finally got some 3d glasses, so I popped in some movies and it looks like the resolution isn't quite up to par. Additionally, there seems to be some kind of motion blur (or missing frames?) when there is a lot of action. It was pretty bad for Megamind and not as bad for Tin Tin, but bad enough for me to be annoyed. Could it be the glasses? Is there some kind of setting I missed to make it display a different resolution?

I have a WD 82838 with a PS3 slim running pass through on a Onkyo TX NR 609. Here is a link to the glasses I bought off Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/SainSonic-SSZ-200DLW-Rechargeable-DLP-Link-Projector/dp/B007MYZE26/ref=sr_1_13?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1339531395&sr=1-13

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

When ever 3D from a real 3D Bluray does not look correct, the first thing to try is the Glasses L-R setting in the menu. If it is on Standard try Reverse.

Also with PS3, make sure you have most current software - same for the TV.

The 3D looks correct (what should be in front pops out), it's just that the resolution seems lower than a standard bluray and the action isn't as smooth. I'll try flipping to reverse and updating firmware when I get home tonight.

I am sure this has been asked and answered before but for the life of me I can not find an answer when searching this site or google. I just replaced the lamp in my wd-73738 for the first time and I can't find the lamp counter in the service menu, only "total hours of usage". In my old 62" mitsubishi there was a counter for total usage and a seperate counter for the lamp usage that you could reset when you changed the lamp. Does the wd-73738 not keep track of the lamp usage anymore or am I just missing something. There is an "Initialize" option in the service menu but the manual says this "Service Level Initialization is used to restore all customer menu, video and audio settings to the original factory default condition." it doesn't say anything about counters.

Thanks in advance.

You are correct. Just write down the hours. I kept my old lamp as a spare in case of a future total lamp failure, and wrote the lamp hours on the box before storing it.

Wartorn I hope your not having the same issue as me. When u play the 3d movie and you have these motion issue. Tell me something: When the picture goes to a different view (like going from camera one and camera 2, that kind of switch), does it look like one eye blinks over to that "perspective" one frame faster then the other? It will be very fast, you really have to concentrate. If you are seeing that, then your having the same problem I am having.

To give everyone an update on my concern: Mitsubishi called me back and stated that since I did not have there "approved" dlp-link glasses, they suspect that is the cause. That's a disappointing answer and very amateur of them. I have two different types of glasses and a total of 6 glasses. I have the Ultra-clear DLP link glasses (2 of them) and Optoma Dlp-link glasses (4 of them). They all do the same thing when I have the problem.

The bad thing is as I said even when Im not wearing the glasses, you can see something is not right with the picture during motion scenes.

I'm going to contact them tomorrow to state my case because I dont feel like wasting money on the Xpand 102 glasses (apparently mitsubihi approved). I've heard there not that great of glasses.

I enjoy posting hear because I'm hoping Im not the only one with this issue and the 1st level support at mitsubishi walks me through like its my first time with tech "is your tv plugged in", that sort of thing

The XpanDs are one of the top brands out there. Regardless, I agree that it is not the glasses. Try to be patient with 1st level tech support. They have to go by a script or they get in trouble. Get them to escalate your case to the California office. That's where the action happens.

I just started noticing this issue with my tv but I'm not sure if it is a problem or from the tv being old. When the TV starts up, it normally has a dark blue background with the Mitsubishi emblem on it. Then the picture for the programming comes on. Now I notice it starts with a light blue background, then it changes to the normal dark blue background, then it switch back to the light blue background, then it switches back to the dark blue background. After that the picture comes up. It runs fine after that but not sure if this is a symptom of something that is starting to go wrong.

EDIT: After talking with the wife she notices that the audio can be heard before the picture shows on the screen as well.

Can't answer what the issue is but the audio before pic is normal with mine going through the receiver.. Is it taking longer to boot to a pic? How many hours on the lamp? Any firmware updates been applied? Only issue I've had on my 2009 was the the main board and it would get stuck on the blue screen..

Yes, we both notice it is taking longer to get to the video feed. 3209 hours on the lamp. Currently on firmware 12.08. Also there were no errors on the log.

Well my tv is back up and running from after the light engine has been replaced. So far, it has worked well. I still had the intermittent 3d issue, so I reloaded the 2010 companion software then the 12.08 firmware just for good measure. (not sure if that help or did anything at all) I did watch one 3d movie after reloading and it did come up correct, I may of got lucky.

My recent problem was it would black screen then go back to the input then go black again. It only did that when right when it was powered on and only happened twice. So far the problem has not returned.

Things I have noticed after the LIGHT ENGINE has been replaced:

1- The installer may of installed the housing a bit off. The picture has lost about 10 lines of horizontal res on the bottom and about the same on top. I figured that out when I went to resize my picture on my computer to compensate for overscan. I am currently on 1824 by 1026 to get the whole pic to fit the frame. Its less res then I used to get. I still have a little of geometry issue but Im ok with that. I have a feeling that a mirror and or tv frame is the culprit and I dont notice it during movie veiwing only internet veiwing.

2- I have not seen any intermittent "flickering" at the top right of the screen after the light engine replacement. Again this was only noticable when internet viewing with static white images. kinda like being on this website at the reply section.

3- My favorite issue that has lessened was I do not see the "rainbow" effect of the DLP color wheel as much. Not everyone sees that and I knew this before I bought the TV. I guess the timing with the chip and the color wheel can differ from engine to engine. This positive makes me forget all about loosing some resolution.

So far a descent experience. Now my TV is officially out of warranty. crossing my fingers for a good, long lasting mainboard and engine.

Looking for help with a problem with my 60738.. it's still under warranty and wondering what is causing my color issues... would it be the color wheel or light engine?? It seems like there are no blues... just shades of pink and green... has anyone experienced this before?

Is it being fed via Component or HDMI? I had a similar problem with cable box connected vis component cables. One of the plugs had worked it's way loose. Also, check your picture settings (tint, Advanced settings, etc.).
Edited by Augerhandle - 8/8/12 at 12:57pm

Everything is via HDMI.. Cablebox, PS3 and HTPC... same distorted color results on all inputs... tried all resets on DLP to no avail.