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2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 282

post #8431 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by SJMAYE View Post

A lil' help please?

I have a WD-73835 that I have owed for while now. No issues. I recently moved and noticed the right and top edges of the picture distorted. When news tickers are at the top they sort of roll across the bow in the plastic screen . I see no physical signs of the TV being damaged from the move, but I know this issue was not there before the move. As I look at the plastic screen from the side I think I can see it bowing in places. I can push on the screen at the points of distortion and change the image.

The insurance from the movers are balking at thinking it was their fault and it appears the authorized service center is not well-versed with DLPs. They had a tech out who met with my wife. They never even thought to look at the plastic screen. They immediately wanted to try to adjust the distortion out. They have since gone to consult Mitsubishi. They now want to come back and do more adjustments.

Any ideas?

Could be your screen is just out of the mounting groove, sort of like how polycarbonate lenses can pop out of the frame on sunglasses.
post #8432 of 8788
WD-60738 Not Displaying a 3D Image

My TV has suddently stopped displaying a 3D image when in Automatic 3D mode. This only happens when the set is receiving a Full HD 3D signal from a Blu-ray player, and it's happening with every single 3D movie I've tried. The set goes into 3D mode automatically like it's supposed to, complete with the slightly washed-out colors, and the onscreen message flashes prompting you to put on the 3D glasses. But the image onscreen never chan,ges to 3D...it remains a 2D image clearly viewable without the glasses. In fact, the Optoma BG-ZD101's will not even activate when it does this...though DLP-Link is active on the set, the glasses do not sync and one lens remains clear while the other is dark. I've tried switching Blu-ray players, switching HDMI inputs, switching HDMI cables, and even removing the 3D-capable AVR from the equation by connecting the BDP directly to the TV, but it doesn't make a difference. I get the same result, either at the moment the disc loads and begins playing or at some point during playback. I called Mitsubishi and spoke to four different CSRs (one of them even called back the following day to see how I was making out), but they are completely stumped. Even returning the TV to factory settings only provided a temporary solution. The set had been working fine up until now, and I am running the very latest firmware. Has anyone here ever experienced this behavior on their set?
post #8433 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy1 View Post

...the Optoma BG-ZD101's will not even activate when it does this...though DLP-Link is active on the set, the glasses do not sync and one lens remains clear while the other is dark....

One lens dark and one clear is a known symptom of an incompatible format being output by the player. Check the player's out put to make sure it is 1080P @ 24Hz and it is not being forced into another mode such as 1080i, or check that it is being up/down converted by an AVR or receiver if you have one in the device chain.
post #8434 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

One lens dark and one clear is a known symptom of an incompatible format being output by the player. Check the player's out put to make sure it is 1080P @ 24Hz and it is not being forced into another mode such as 1080i, or check that it is being up/down converted by an AVR or receiver if you have one in the device chain.

I checked it all per your recommendation, and the player was indeed set to output 1080p @ 24Hz. I connected it directly to the DLP, and the problem persists. When I have a little more time, I'll reset everything to factory defaults once again and start over. Thank you.
post #8435 of 8788
Replaced lamp on my 738. Wow. "Old" lamp did not have that many hours on it but had enough that I requested a replacement from the MIT extended warranty service folks. Picture was not bad. New lamp made huge difference not in brightness all that much but in color depth. Did not anticipate that type of improvement. Glad I changed the lamp and it was very easy.
post #8436 of 8788
how many hours you have on the tv?
post #8437 of 8788
Where can I find the tips and tricks on my 738 ? Such as the lamp hours and so on ?
Thanks
post #8438 of 8788
I know this might have been covered in this thread but I cant seem to find it. Does anyone have settings to calibrate the 82838?
post #8439 of 8788
I had my WD-82838 professionally calibrated on 09/27/2011. Cost me $450 but thought it really improved the PQ. Here are the results:


Calibration Results.pdf 761k .pdf file
post #8440 of 8788
Man, I tried your settings and the red crush is nearly unbearable. I made the changes late at night while everyone was asleep. When I got home from work the next day my 12-year old was gaming on the XBOX 360 and I heard him exclaim "what happened to the TV? The picture sucks?" Nothing against you or your calibrator... I just run all my displays at a cool color temperature and that's what everyone in the house is used to. I think if I could cool the color temps the rest of your settings would shine. Anyone have any thoughts on accomplishing this?
post #8441 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Catfish View Post

Man, I tried your settings and the red crush is nearly unbearable. I made the changes late at night while everyone was asleep. When I got home from work the next day my 12-year old was gaming on the XBOX 360 and I heard him exclaim "what happened to the TV? The picture sucks?" Nothing against you or your calibrator... I just run all my displays at a cool color temperature and that's what everyone in the house is used to. I think if I could cool the color temps the rest of your settings would shine. Anyone have any thoughts on accomplishing this?

You cannot rely on anyone else's calibration to be accurate on your TV. You can use it as a baseline and go from there, but without a meter of some sort you cannot have any guarantee of accuracy whatsoever.
post #8442 of 8788
I don't have a Dish Set Top box but I can't imagine 17 for a brightness number. Also if you are running contrast at Max setting you are likely clipping both above white and the colors above 235 too. Folks keep in mind using someone elses calibration numbers on a projector are a little silly everyones lamp has a slightly different spectral output and is at a differnt point in its aging. On this calibration where are the charts? These are settings. The calibrations we have traditionally thought of are grayscale and 6 color points. 6 is not nearly enough. 125 point calibrations with external boxes is the way to go.. Not cheap but neither are reptetive $450 pro visits.

Finally the truth of the matter is you can only calibrate these TVs using built in controls to be accurate in a narrow range of saturations. If you do a saturation sweep you will find that the color is only accurate where you set it, commonly 75% stimulus and at 100 percent saturation. Most TVs don't track color very well and the Mits sets are probably below average in this area. The only real fix is an external box with a 3D LUT table. The new software on the Radience processors from Lumagen allow you to set color at 25%, 50%, 75% and a 100% saturation. The Video Processor than uses that to correct virtually the entire color space Actually it is done automatically. Color gamut is a displayed on a triangle and measuring the edge does not tell you much about tthe vast majority of the space inside the triangle.

The posted worksheet is really a set of settings a calibration would show the before and after measurments. We would love to see the rest of the story. $450 is a lot of money, usually the part the calibrators prefer you not provide others is the settings. They are usually fine with showing the measurments graphs etcs.
post #8443 of 8788
Need help....

Got a WD-65738 and just replaced the bulb for the first time and now something is wrong and I am not sure where to start.

When I power up the set I get the mits welcome screen and then about 30 seconds later the picture fizzles out and the set turns itself off. I have bypassed my receiver and ran hdmi directly from my dish 722k to the set and tried all the hdmi inputs on the set and no change. I also have pulled and reset the lamp housing and got no change. Thoughts and pointers as to what could be wrong would be appreciated.
post #8444 of 8788
Is it an OEM lamp?
post #8445 of 8788
Yes it is.
post #8446 of 8788
If you have a spare lamp or the old lamp try reinstalling that one and see what happens.
post #8447 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

If you have a spare lamp or the old lamp try reinstalling that one and see what happens.

that is the only troubleshooting technique I cannot do, my original bulb is completely dead and the only other one I have is the new one that possibly is not working. I am going to return it to the vendor for a replacement and go from there.
post #8448 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67jason View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

If you have a spare lamp or the old lamp try reinstalling that one and see what happens.

that is the only troubleshooting technique I cannot do, my original bulb is completely dead and the only other one I have is the new one that possibly is not working. I am going to return it to the vendor for a replacement and go from there.

Vendor? Which vendor? Only Mitshbishi sells OEM lamps. Anything else is not guaranteed by Mitsubishi to work, and may even cause damage to the TV.
post #8449 of 8788
I have a 65738 model and I've been having issues with it - I bought a 3 year warranty through Frys for it and they sold it to me like "if there's anything wrong with it, we'll replace it right away" - when I actually tried getting it replaced, they needed to sent a tech out - of course the TV won't turn off a flicker when he's there, and I really don't even want to try to repair it (and have it die on me sooner rather than later) and would rather just get it replaced for the same model. I called the tech office and they need an error code, and because of the headaches I've already dealt with I'm at a point where I just want to give them an error code which wouldn't be fixable, so that I can just get the replacement.

What would be the most appropriate error code to give them for this? Is there documentation somewhere which goes over all the error codes?
post #8450 of 8788
Gaming the system like that will most likely not work.

It is standard practice to repair first and replace if repair is not possible or too problematic. That is determined by the warranty company (it is in the small print).

There is no error code for "un-repairable". All conditions revealed by error codes are technically possible to repair. Some may not be financially feasible but technically they are repairable. The error codes normally tell the repair tech if they can just bring a new part or if they will need to troubleshoot the circuits.

Also you most likely you cannot get a 3-year old model replaced with the “same” model because models last only one year and then are replaced with a new and different model. If replaced, it would be with a newer model, not the “same” model.
post #8451 of 8788
That makes sense. I guess I was just wound up about how the warranty was sold to me - the guy pretty much said if there's anything wrong, they'll replace it immediately, which is clearly not the case.
post #8452 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by kostya00 View Post

That makes sense. I guess I was just wound up about how the warranty was sold to me - the guy pretty much said if there's anything wrong, they'll replace it immediately, which is clearly not the case.
Unfortunately, that's typical salesperson speak. To a point (and sometimes past) many of them will say anything to make a sale and extended warranties are big money makers.
post #8453 of 8788
Had a question on using the TV as a video/audio source (i.e. OTA or the VUDU service).

I want to try experimenting with VUDU. Ideally I would be able to steam movies into the TV while the sound travels from the TV to my HT receiver via HDMI so I can utilize my surround sound speakers.

Is this possible? Or would I be forced to use the tv’s speakers while streaming?

Anyone have any experience with this?
post #8454 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtgray View Post

I don't have a Dish Set Top box but I can't imagine 17 for a brightness number. Also if you are running contrast at Max setting you are likely clipping both above white and the colors above 235 too. Folks keep in mind using someone elses calibration numbers on a projector are a little silly everyones lamp has a slightly different spectral output and is at a differnt point in its aging. On this calibration where are the charts? These are settings. The calibrations we have traditionally thought of are grayscale and 6 color points. 6 is not nearly enough. 125 point calibrations with external boxes is the way to go.. Not cheap but neither are reptetive $450 pro visits.
Finally the truth of the matter is you can only calibrate these TVs using built in controls to be accurate in a narrow range of saturations. If you do a saturation sweep you will find that the color is only accurate where you set it, commonly 75% stimulus and at 100 percent saturation. Most TVs don't track color very well and the Mits sets are probably below average in this area. The only real fix is an external box with a 3D LUT table. The new software on the Radience processors from Lumagen allow you to set color at 25%, 50%, 75% and a 100% saturation. The Video Processor than uses that to correct virtually the entire color space Actually it is done automatically. Color gamut is a displayed on a triangle and measuring the edge does not tell you much about tthe vast majority of the space inside the triangle.
The posted worksheet is really a set of settings a calibration would show the before and after measurments. We would love to see the rest of the story. $450 is a lot of money, usually the part the calibrators prefer you not provide others is the settings. They are usually fine with showing the measurments graphs etcs.

After seeing your comments I am concerned about the accuracy of my calibration. Here are some of the other charts from my calibration. Hopefully this will provide some of the "rest of the story". Any comments would be appreciated.

Post-Calibration Color Gamut.pdf 3417k .pdf file
. Pre-Calibration Color Gamut.pdf 3542k .pdf file
post #8455 of 8788
post #8456 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcusj50 View Post

Had a question on using the TV as a video/audio source (i.e. OTA or the VUDU service).
I want to try experimenting with VUDU. Ideally I would be able to steam movies into the TV while the sound travels from the TV to my HT receiver via HDMI so I can utilize my surround sound speakers.
Is this possible? Or would I be forced to use the tv’s speakers while streaming?
Anyone have any experience with this?

I stream movies from Vudu all the time, and the audio plays through my AV receiver's speakers just fine. It also works with over the air broadcasts as well as the internet apps, including Pandora. Just make sure you've disabled the TVs onboard speakers.
post #8457 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rudy1 View Post

I stream movies from Vudu all the time, and the audio plays through my AV receiver's speakers just fine. It also works with over the air broadcasts as well as the internet apps, including Pandora. Just make sure you've disabled the TVs onboard speakers.

Wow, that sounds easy. Thanks for the information.

I already have the TV speakers off so hopefully it’s as easy as firing up VUDU and the having the audio finds its way to the receiver. I only have one HDMI in between the receiver and the TV going into the HDMI 1 port on the TV. I’ll experiment with an OTA signal first and see how it goes.

On a side note, how do you like VUDU? I’ve experimented with Netflix streaming through my BD Player and it stinks. The picture looks awful, the sound is in stereo, rather than full surround, and the selection is limited in my opinion. I’ve also looked at a service called Film Fresh but it seems to be a pay as you go service rather than a monthly charge which is really what I’m after.

How’s the audio/video over VUDU and how’s the selection? AVS Forum had a feature story recently that had positive things to say about VUDU so I’m very interested in trying it out. Thanks.
post #8458 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcusj50 View Post

Wow, that sounds easy. Thanks for the information.
I already have the TV speakers off so hopefully it’s as easy as firing up VUDU and the having the audio finds its way to the receiver. I only have one HDMI in between the receiver and the TV going into the HDMI 1 port on the TV. I’ll experiment with an OTA signal first and see how it goes.
On a side note, how do you like VUDU? I’ve experimented with Netflix streaming through my BD Player and it stinks. The picture looks awful, the sound is in stereo, rather than full surround, and the selection is limited in my opinion. I’ve also looked at a service called Film Fresh but it seems to be a pay as you go service rather than a monthly charge which is really what I’m after.
How’s the audio/video over VUDU and how’s the selection? AVS Forum had a feature story recently that had positive things to say about VUDU so I’m very interested in trying it out. Thanks.

I have used Vudu now for several years and even cancelled my Netflix streaming because Vudu offered 1080p and DD+ with it's HDX version of movies. It is great as long as you have a good broadband connection. If you don't, even the HDX will go to HD and then SD if the connection is slow. BTW, I've re-subscribed to Netflix streaming when they began offering 1080p and DD+ as well. Also, your BD player has to support the new Netflix streaming capability which it sounds like it doesn't do and that's why you're only getting 720p and stereo on your BD player through Netflix.
post #8459 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

I have used Vudu now for several years and even cancelled my Netflix streaming because Vudu offered 1080p and DD+ with it's HDX version of movies. It is great as long as you have a good broadband connection. If you don't, even the HDX will go to HD and then SD if the connection is slow. BTW, I've re-subscribed to Netflix streaming when they began offering 1080p and DD+ as well. Also, your BD player has to support the new Netflix streaming capability which it sounds like it doesn't do and that's why you're only getting 720p and stereo on your BD player through Netflix.

One comment I noticed that was missed, Marcus wants the audio to go from the TV to the AVR via HDMI. That is not going to happen, the TV does not support Audio Return Channel on HDMI.

Yes you can still get the TV/VUDU audio to the AVR but you need to connect the TV's Coaxial Digital Audio Output to the AVR. That would be a shielded RCA type cable. You will need to change inputs on the AVR to thisn connection when you want to hear the VUDU. It will be Dolby Digital up to 5.1.

Also yes the picture quality will average much better on VUDU. However it is a pay per view so if you watch more than 2 HD or HDX movies a month, it is more expensive than Netflix. Most HDX movies average $5.99 (1080p) and most HD (720p) movies average $4.99. I cannot see a big difference between HDX and HD so I most often use HD. (yes I can see a small difference but not a big difference).
post #8460 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

... I cannot see a big difference between HDX and HD so I most often use HD. (yes I can see a small difference but not a big difference).

I have to agree about the small difference. The difference between SD (480p) and HD (720p) is much greater than the difference between HD (720p) and HDX (1080p). If I have a choice though, I will pick the HDX because I can notice the difference on an 82" TV.
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