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2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 285

post #8521 of 8788
Hi everyone.

Lots of flickering on my 73738, most notably when viewing white backgrounds (browsing web pages) on my htpc, though over the past few months it has become more noticeable with any content on any input. 4349 hours on the original lamp with energy on the "bright" setting for most of that time. Picture brightness is roughly the same as usual, maybe slightly dimmer though it's hard to say.

Any way to confirm that my lamp is the source of the flickering before I drop $99 on a replacement?

Thanks in advance for any insight. Happy New Year to you all.

BTW, I have 4 pairs of the xpand dlp link glasses and they all work fine for me. Looks like the design may have changed slightly from what I got, but 5 packs of compatible batteries can be had for around $5 on Amazon. The few times I had problems with losing sync was due to low batteries. Or you can toggle between IR-link and DLP-link in 738's 3D settings to re-sync the glasses. Really though, if they're losing sync then you should swap in a new battery to see if that fixes it.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
post #8522 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotShorty View Post

Hi everyone.
Lots of flickering on my 73738, most notably when viewing white backgrounds (browsing web pages) on my htpc, though over the past few months it has become more noticeable with any content on any input. 4349 hours on the original lamp with energy on the "bright" setting for most of that time. Picture brightness is roughly the same as usual, maybe slightly dimmer though it's hard to say.
Any way to confirm that my lamp is the source of the flickering before I drop $99 on a replacement?
Thanks in advance for any insight. Happy New Year to you all.
BTW, I have 4 pairs of the xpand dlp link glasses and they all work fine for me. Looks like the design may have changed slightly from what I got, but 5 packs of compatible batteries can be had for around $5 on Amazon. The few times I had problems with losing sync was due to low batteries. Or you can toggle between IR-link and DLP-link in 738's 3D settings to re-sync the glasses. Really though, if they're losing sync then you should swap in a new battery to see if that fixes it.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

Ironically, the battery "swap" that you're suggesting re the glasses is the analog of what is likely needed to make that flickering go away: "swap" the lamp. smile.gif 4,000+ hours on the Bright setting? It's time. I bet you, too, will be surprised at how slowly but surely you grew accustomed to what was a darkening picture over the months when you put in a new lamp and see how bright it is with the same settings.
post #8523 of 8788
Thanks for the reply. Will report back with the results smile.gif
post #8524 of 8788
Any advice appreciated. Just ordered the WD-73742 from Paul's TV for $1199.00 and a gift card included for $250.00 (Not sure about the gift card yet). Also ordered and received the WIfi dongle as well as a pair of MITSUBISHI-Compatible 3D Glasses from Dimensional Optics . Includes IR Emitter. Rechargeable. TWIN-PACK off amazon for $100.00. TV should be here Should be be here on 01/09/2013.

I have plenty of room for this set and I thought it was the most "bang for the buck".

Anybody have experience using the VNC function. Is it similar to DLNA?

I have about 4 TB of movies and music on my computer, I would like to interface.

Any advice on settings/calibrations? I have the AVS 709 disk.

Thanks
post #8525 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frankhpns View Post

Any advice appreciated. Just ordered the WD-73742 from Paul's TV for $1199.00 and a gift card included for $250.00 (Not sure about the gift card yet). Also ordered and received the WIfi dongle as well as a pair of MITSUBISHI-Compatible 3D Glasses from Dimensional Optics . Includes IR Emitter. Rechargeable. TWIN-PACK off amazon for $100.00. TV should be here Should be be here on 01/09/2013.

I have plenty of room for this set and I thought it was the most "bang for the buck".

Anybody have experience using the VNC function. Is it similar to DLNA?

I have about 4 TB of movies and music on my computer, I would like to interface.

Any advice on settings/calibrations? I have the AVS 709 disk.

Thanks

Congrats on your purchases. You've bought a 2012 model so try the 2012 owners' thread. It has perhaps unsurprisingly been a lot busier of late and you're thereby more likely to get more answers to your queries.
post #8526 of 8788
Greetings Guys

I have a 73738

Anybody know the maximum amount of forward tilt I can do before I run into potential cabinet stress problems.

Got used to being out of the "Sweet Spot" for viewing regular stuff. Have a Ginormous EC that holds the beast.

The old battleaxe nixed a new one that lowers the TV center spot as well as risers on her beloved sofa.

I recently joined the 3D crowd and its barely okay, way to dark. when I stand up its much better.

Figured if I tilt it forward we would both be happy.
post #8527 of 8788
If you tilt the TV, and it somehow slid forward and fell on the ground, you will need both a new (and larger) TV as well as a new cabinet to put it on. wink.gif
post #8528 of 8788
Mine sits on a 2X4 under the rear of the tv base to tilt it forward - no problems whatsoever.
post #8529 of 8788
My goof.

Thanks
post #8530 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul.R.S View Post

Congrats on your purchases. You've bought a 2012 model so try the 2012 owners' thread. It has perhaps unsurprisingly been a lot busier of late and you're thereby more likely to get more answers to your queries.

MY goof, thanks
post #8531 of 8788
Hello all I just got a WD-73738 with a new extra Lamp of Craigslist for $150 and the guy said that the color wheel was bad so when I got home and pluged it up it worked great for 4 days then after that I got color problems and I ordered a new color wheel and Im waiting for it to arive. Then I saw this video online whith the same destortion I have and the guy said he thinks its the Optical Engine. My question is does anyone know if the problem is the color wheel, Optical Engine or something else? Thanks for any and all help.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbgwvsgMdBQ
post #8532 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by superman2k2 View Post

Hello all I just got a WD-73738 with a new extra Lamp of Craigslist for $150 and the guy said that the color wheel was bad so when I got home and pluged it up it worked great for 4 days then after that I got color problems and I ordered a new color wheel and Im waiting for it to arive. Then I saw this video online whith the same destortion I have and the guy said he thinks its the Optical Engine. My question is does anyone know if the problem is the color wheel, Optical Engine or something else? Thanks for any and all help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbgwvsgMdBQ

The color wheel can be considered part of the Optical Engine (or Light Engine), or not. Seems a matter of opinion.
post #8533 of 8788
NO CAN DO RUDY!!! She would freak if that happened. Although I do have my eye on this sweet little 92" in a red bikini, LOL!!!

Thanks Paco, I'll start with a 1 X 2 and go from there.

Thanks again guys
post #8534 of 8788
Looking for a little help here. Mits replaced our old broken Mits TV with a WD-65738 at a very good price (I believe it was part of a settlement). We have had the new TV for a little over 2 years. Just recently, I started noticing a "fog" apperance inside the edges of the TV....Kind of like a halo. This is very noticable on dark screen shots, and seems to be getting worse.. It's very noticalbe even the the TV is shutting down. It is not there when the TV is off. The lamp has never been replaced, and I emailed customer service....basically they told me there is nothing they can do. I have reset settings...nothing has helped. Don't want to replace the lamp, if it's not needed.

Thoughts?
post #8535 of 8788
Sounds like a light engine issue.


Tech just left from my recent visit. My screen has started to separate. The inner screen pulling away from outer. Hard to describe but I have lines that look like scratch marks but no actual scratches. We moved the light engine around to see if the lines were in the signal path and they are not. They are in the screen some how.

Working now to see if can still get screen under the last few weeks of my extended warranty. Can't extend it as MIT has pulled out of extended warranty for their RPTV's.....

Screen about 300 bucks for both inner and outer pieces.

Its very weird but clearly the screen.

Have only cleaned it with damp cloth.
post #8536 of 8788
That's something I need to check in to...I've searched everywhere for answers, with no luck. Your response seems very interesting. Thanks for the quick response!

Eric D
post #8537 of 8788
Thanks for the reply. I got my color wheel today and installed it been watcging it for 9 hour now with no issues
post #8538 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by superman2k2 View Post

Thanks for the reply. I got my color wheel today and installed it been watcging it for 9 hour now with no issues

Cool, so it was the color wheel. How hard was that job? I figure it's only a matter of time before that goes out. Oh, how many hours is on your set?
post #8539 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul.R.S View Post

Ironically, the battery "swap" that you're suggesting re the glasses is the analog of what is likely needed to make that flickering go away: "swap" the lamp. smile.gif 4,000+ hours on the Bright setting? It's time. I bet you, too, will be surprised at how slowly but surely you grew accustomed to what was a darkening picture over the months when you put in a new lamp and see how bright it is with the same settings.

Thanks again for your reply, Paul.R.S. I replaced my lamp last night, and now have zero flickering and a picture that's more vivid than I've ever seen it! (I bought a display model with just under 2k hours on it). I suppose 4.5k hours on the bright setting is enough to degrade picture quality rolleyes.gif

Does anyone have experience with cleaning the giant mirror on the back inside of the cabinet? I've got some linear streaks that are visible from the removable side panel which I was able to wipe away (or at least smudge) with a lint-free lens cloth. The subtle dark lines that are projected onto the upper right corner of my screen have finally gotten the best of me, but I don't want to use any chemicals until I do my research. Other posters have suggested that this reflective surface is like the underside of a typical mirror and therefore could be quite damageable.

No idea where those lines came from, BTW. My guess is that it was some sort of grease or sealant that got dripped at the factory or in transit, though there's no evidence of contamination on the outside of the cabinet...
post #8540 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by NotShorty View Post

...

Does anyone have experience with cleaning the giant mirror on the back inside of the cabinet?...

I remember there was detailed instructions for this on the XXX25 models and I used them and it worked really well. I just don't know if they would work on the X38 series models as well?
post #8541 of 8788
"just got a WD-73738 with a new extra Lamp of Craigslist for $150"

I keep watching CL in the Phoenix area for same kind of deal. IF I can find something like that for a few bucks I can replace my 65738 screen, or the guts of the one with the good screen with the guts of mine, and keep my RPTV a little longer while I build up my savings acct for a new LCD.

So far only found working ones and at that the owners want way too much money. Not sure why they think a potential buyer would pay 800 to 900 dollars for a RPTV when a good 60 inch LCD can be had for just oaver a 1000.

Despite my extended warranty MIT will not cover my screen that has gone bad. Tech looked at mine. Its clearly something that has gone bad as the lines and marks are on the inner screen or in the layer between the screens. Screens however are only covered under warranty for a short period of time regardless of the "Extended" warranty.
post #8542 of 8788
Sorry, can't get the quote thing to work

[quote name="jsmiddleton4" url="/t/1258512/2010-mitsubishi-3d-dlp-owners-thread-738-838-series/8520#post_22827779
So far only found working ones and at that the owners want way too much money. Not sure why they think a potential buyer would pay 800 to 900 dollars for a RPTV when a good 60 inch LCD can be had for just oaver a 1000.[/quote]

Same here. I have seen owners asking for too much money for 3 or 2 years tvs. You might as well buy a new one.
post #8543 of 8788
"You might as well buy a new one."

And those sellers get real offended when you point that out. They seem to think what they paid for it new some how changes the market value of their 2 year old DLP RPTV today.
post #8544 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwitchbladeHD View Post

Cool, so it was the color wheel. How hard was that job? I figure it's only a matter of time before that goes out. Oh, how many hours is on your set?

It was easy to install the only hard part was that the new one I ordered power conector didnt work so I unsrewed the color wheel and re attatched it to my old color wheel frame and it worked. I dont know howmany hours is on this TV because I dont know how to get to the service menu
post #8545 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by superman2k2 View Post

... I dont know howmany hours is on this TV because I dont know how to get to the service menu

Just type in "Menu - 2 - 4 - 7 - 0" on your Mitsubishi remote and the screen should show the number of hours.
post #8546 of 8788
Since I replaced my light engine I was able to take my old one apart and play and lean. Replacing the color wheel would be and is straightforward. Only hard part would be the care needed with the ribbon cable and power cable. As superman pointed out. In terms of things that you can do to the light engine, changing the color wheel is probably one of the easier things to do.

Replacing the DLP chip would not be so hard either. Only trick would be to mark clearly where the DMD board has been aligned so you can put it back in exactly the same place. Also would not be too hard as long as you used a Sharpie, or something like it, to mark on the DMD board where the screw heads are before loosening them.
post #8547 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by lujan View Post

Just type in "Menu - 2 - 4 - 7 - 0" on your Mitsubishi remote and the screen should show the number of hours.

OK thx for the info. I have 7751 hr on my TV
post #8548 of 8788
Not sure where to ask other than here or in the 737 thread. Are there any differences in the cabinet/screen between the model year 737 to 738?
post #8549 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by superman2k2 View Post

OK thx for the info. I have 7751 hr on my TV

wow, that's not very many hours to need a color wheel. On average, that is only about 2 years of normal use. I expected you to have about double that before a color wheel would be needed. I guess that's good to know.

How much was it for the part? I might as well get ready for it. LOL
post #8550 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmiddleton4 View Post

Not sure where to ask other than here or in the 737 thread. Are there any differences in the cabinet/screen between the model year 737 to 738?

Unlikely, but minimal at worst.
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