2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 286

Not sure where to ask other than here or in the 737 thread. Are there any differences in the cabinet/screen between the model year 737 to 738?

wow, that's not very many hours to need a color wheel. On average, that is only about 2 years of normal use. I expected you to have about double that before a color wheel would be needed. I guess that's good to know.

How much was it for the part? I might as well get ready for it. LOL

Unlikely, but minimal at worst.

Thanks. Trying to find service manual for the 737 or the 735. The cabinet is not the same but the screens just might be.

Did you find the manual. If not I have it.

fresnel lens 491P218020 , lenticular screen 491P217050

[#] Model Legend: (a) WD-60737, (b) WD-60C9, (c) WD-65737, (d) WD-65837, (e) WD-65C9,
(f) WD-73737, (g) WD-73837, (h) WD-73C9, (i) WD-82737, (j) WD-82837
SCREEN PARTS - 60”, 65” & 73” MODELS
Ref# Part# Description Model
(0) LENS-TAPE TAPE-LENS
(1) 491P217040 SCREEN-LENTICULAR ab
(1) 491P217050 SCREEN-LENTICULAR cde
(1) 491P217060 SCREEN-LENTICULAR fgh
(2) 491P218010 LENS-FRESNEL ab
(2) 491P218020 LENS-FRESNEL cde
(2) 491P218030 LENS-FRESNEL fgh
(3) 593B341010 HOLDER-SCREEN T cde
(3) 593B350010 HOLDER-SCREEN-T ab
(3) 593B371010 HOLDER-SCREEN-T fgh
(4) 593B342010 HOLDER-SCREEN B cde
(4) 593B359010 HOLDER-SCREEN-B ab
(4) 593B372010 HOLDER-SCREEN-B fgh
(5) 621B196010 HOLDER-SCREEN S ab
(5) 621B196020 HOLDER-SCREEN S cde
(5) 621B207010 HOLDER-SCREEN-S fgh
Ref# Part# Description Model
(6) 622C487080 SPACER-SCREEN CORNERS fgh
(7) 622C489060 SPACER-SCREEN-TOP ab
(7) 622C489080 SPACER-SCREEN-TOP cdefgh
(8) 622C550080 SPACER-SCREEN-B cde
(8) 622C550090 SPACER-SCREEN-B ab
(8) 622C601030 SPACER-SCREEN-B fgh
(9) 622C608010 SPACER-SCREEN-S fgh
(10) 621B211010 COVER-HOLDER-T cde
(10) 621B212010 COVER-HOLDER-T ab
(10) 621B213010 COVER-HOLDER-T fgh
(11) 761A382020 BEZEL-FRONT ce
(11) 761A383020 BEZEL-FRONT ab
(11) 761A384020 BEZEL-FRONT fh
(11) 761A422010 BEZEL-FRONT d
(11) 761A424010 BEZEL-FRONT g

According to Sears parts.com, the screens appear to not be the same for the 738 series. https://sso.shld.net/shccas/shcLogin?gateway=true&service=https://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/j_acegi_cas_security_check
Edited by Augerhandle - 1/15/13 at 3:15pm

Thanks for all the help.

Looks like staying in the x38 line is my best bet.

I've found a couple in Craigslist but sellers are priced too high.

I'll keep looking. If I can find a 638 that isn't working it should be reasonably priced and I can swap the screen/bezel.

Well it is not the screen. Since the warranty isn't going to apply anyway there is little down side to my removing the front bezel and screen to see if something could be cleaned, something inbetween the screen layers, etc.

The screen is fine.

It is the mirror. The coating on the mirror is getting lines in it. Can't see it if you look straight on but if you look at an angle you can see all the lines which are the very same lines that show up on the screen.

The tech did not take the bezel off the unit. He moved the light engine to see if the lines stayed with the picture. Since they didn't he concluded it was the screen. What was happening is as he moved the light engine the image was hitting a different area on the mirror so of course the lines did not stay with the image.

His diagnostics discovered it COULD be the screen, it could also have been the mirror.

I polished the mirror with windshield cleaner/polish. Doing so did clean up the lines, they aren't really scratches, enough so that the picture is back to being great and no lines. Not sure how long that "fix" will work.

I'll be calling the repair place today I can assure you.

Congratulations.. Nice job figuring that out. I wonder if it will reoccur. Maybe it was just some kind of residue on the top edge of the mirror that finally ran down? That's a new one.

Thanks. Hard to tell. Looks more like some kind of finish, protecting coat, something that is supposed to be on the mirror. Why all of the sudden? Maybe heat related and the heat impacted the finish? Who knows?

The repair place is refunding me the cost of the technician's visit.

Finding mirror kits on-line but until the symptom comes back I'm not spending any money.

Money going into "New TV" fund.

I recall in the past reading something about folks removing the outer screen. Don't remember any details and it was awhile ago. Wondering if I can remove the outer screen. Isn't just a protecting kind of thing?

Also found out the MIT extended warranty does not cover mirrors either. Geez.....

Some RPTVs had a third screen in front that you could remove. Not so with your TV.
Edited by Augerhandle - 1/16/13 at 11:14am

Thanks.

Groovy.

Picture still looking good. Glad I took the time to dig a little further and investigate.

My 82838 has about 4300 hours on the OEM and lamp it looks very dim, most likely due to the "tons" of power on - power off cycles. Kids.....

Does anyone know the best place (cheapest) to get the original OEM lamp replacement? I did some searching and all I could really find was that there are 2 OEM choices:

Phillips bulb
OSRAM bulb (OEM Mits bulb)

I know that Mitsuparts sells the OSRAM OEM for 99 + 10 shipping but I'm trying to find a better deal...

$99 is about the best you can get it. Local retailers were telling me upwards of $150-250.. I told them where they can put that.

One of the threads pointed to an ebay seller (Nio Sales). That store is selling the OEM housing with Phillips bulb for 84.99 while the OEM OSRAM bulb is 99. They don't charge shipping so that's at least $10 cheaper than buying direct from Mitsuparts (UPS basic shipping charge is $10)

link to Phillips OEM bulb with housing from NIOSALES (ebay):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Philips-Lamp-with-Housing-For-Mitsubishi-915B441001-WD-73C10-WD-82738-WD-82838-/160931984260?pt=US_Rear_Projection_TV_Lamps&hash=item25784b3384
Any opinions on going with the Phillips over the OSRAM (Neolux and Osram I assume is same company)?
Edited by PRO710HD - 1/27/13 at 1:53pm

Re Neolux and Osram:

"OSRAM, a leading manufacturer of high quality lighting products,
introduces a new dual product strategy for the rear projection TV
market.

In recent years there has been an influx of low quality, rear projection
TV lamps into the aftermarket that attempted to fill the increased
demand for lower cost replacement lamps. Because of unacceptable
quality levels of the typical generic lamp, there is a high level of
consumer dissatisfaction. As a result, OSRAM now offers a new family
of rear projection lamps called NEOLUX, which targets the cost
conscious consumer at a higher quality level. "

Ref: http://assets.sylvania.com/assets/Documents/DO014.bb023c36-3eeb-4788-822b-0952e8269d20.pdf

I'm not sure this is a good move on the part of Osram. It's kind of like Mercedes offering a cheap little car to compete with Kia. The effect is to muddy your own brand.

Thanks Chuck.

Just ordered the Phillips OEM from Niosales. Will post my results when I get it

Need help guys!!

Just received my replacement Phillips lamp and housing. Took old (still working but dim) bulb out.

Plugged new housing/bulb in and I can't get the 2 screws to seat so I could tighten them. After messing with this for a half hour I decided to swap screws. No change.

I looked at the new housing and for some reason it is not seating all the back into the recess so it's no wonder why the screws wouldn't start.

So now what to do. Only option is to try and swap the new bulb into the old housing?

Has anyone else ran into this problem??

I thought OEM was Osram so how can Phillips be OEM?

They told me that both Phillips and OSRAM make OEM bulbs for the Mitsubishis.

I got fed up. There is something odd shaped about the new replacement housing which would not allow it to fully seat.

I looked up the YOUTUBE videos posted by SHOPJIMMY and swapped the new bulb into the existing housing.

Now the TV fired back up and looks MUCH Brighter. Very happy until about 10 minutes on and the picture started flickering badly! Shut the TV off and turned back on, this time flickered bad and shut off with solid red light!

This is unbelievable. Call NIOSALES (shopjimmy) but the were closed. Called Mitsubishi and explained what had occurred to this point. Rep told me that to try reseating bulb/housing and try again. If red light still there hold power button down for 10 seconds to reset.

So I unplugged TV and put original bulb back in original housing and installed. Luckily it powered right back up but guess what. My screen is now intermittently flickering but not quite as often or bad as the replacement bulb. What the heck. I couldn't have done something to the light engine or similar just trying to replace the bulb could I. I am so disappointed and disgusted at wasting an entire evening and now having a problem that I didn't have before I started

Does anyone have any advice or has this happened to anyone else trying to replace their OEM bulb/housing?
Edited by PRO710HD - 1/30/13 at 6:22pm

Are you positive the lamp is seating the whole way in? Look at the connector where the lamp plug is and check to see if either end of it is damaged.
Also make sure you lamp door switch is solidly made.

I doubt you hurt the light engine in any way, ballast maybe if the phillips lamp went bad but still unlikely.

Paco. Checked the connectors and I didn't see any damage.

The Phillips bulb/housing from NIOSALES would not push in all the way no matter what I did. I had called them earlier in the day and spoke to tech support. They said that they had a recent batch of housing with similar "non fitting" issues and they didn't have a solution or fix for that yet. That sounds like a problem to me and I question whether they are selling genuine OEM bulbs/housings??

Now I have to wonder what do do next. Obviously I'm going to call tomorrow and explain all the issues and what I did to resolve them but I really hope that I didn't do anything to the TV components (ballast). How would I know that I blew the ballast Paco? Not sure what to do next and again very disappointed as I've had pretty much "bullet proof" performance up until now.

You can check the input voltage to the ballast and make sure it is steady, I think it is over 300 volts. You can't check the output unfortunately with most meters as it is 10,000-15,000 volts at start up.

You could always just get a Mitsubushi lamp and housing, then you would be sure it just isn't the lamp - it still could be the lamp at this point.

Ballast isn't a big deal to change out in most cases.

Thank You Paco. I turned on the TV about 3 hours later and watched for about 2 hours and luckily it didn't flash once. Very strange. I'm hoping it was the original bulb doing that and it somehow just needed to settle down?

I'm going to call up NIOSALES and try and get a refund and order the OEM from Mitsuparts.

I know everyone likes to save some $$$ but $99 for a lamp and housing that you know WILL work isn't too bad. I am surprised on the phillips lamp going.

I agree. Luckily NIOSALES agreed to take the bulb back wit 100% refund.

They should as the housing didn't even fit into TV correctly. Again I don't think the housing was OEM because the lamp/housing came in a brown box and did not say either Mitsubishi or Phillips anywhere.

I ordered the part from Mitsubishi but was surprised to see that they add a 5 handling on top the 10 for UPS and tax on top of that!! So 122 bucks for OEM replacement. And they only warranty for 90 days! I saw many dealers offering the OEM bulbs with warrantys from 6 months to a year. Oh well, as long as the Mitsubishi housing/bulb fits and works as described, I'll be happy