2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 288

why are you worried? Just ensure the problem goes away after the light engine is replaced, and before he leaves. If you still have the issue, tell him to keep troubleshooting as the problem isn't resolved. As long as you address it before he leaves, it's the same case number.

Because MITS authorized the engine replacement. I'm afraid that they won't cover additional items should it turn out that the engine wasn't bad (remember I am out of warranty). I'm hoping that won't be the case but you never know...

This seems to be a more active thread.. Have you guys ever heard of the lenticular lens being sensitive top cold temperatures for a prolonged amount of time?

I have a slight problem where the center of my TV got really blurry after I had the doors and windows open for about 12 hours and it was probably 66-68° ambient temperature.

I pressed on the center of the screen and it seemed to get a little sharper.

This seems to be a more active thread.. Have you guys ever heard of the lenticular lens being sensitive to cold temperatures for a prolonged amount of time?

I have a slight problem where the center of my TV got really blurry after I had the doors and windows open for about 12 hours and it was probably 66-68° ambient temperature.

I pressed on the center of the screen and it seemed to get a little sharper.

I tested it last night. It was intermittent on Xbox/Directv. Don't believe it's source related. Had them replace the main board twice already, so I'm guessing the light engine...

Since when is 66-68° cold??? ROFLMAO In the winter, I keep the house temp set at around 63° and haven't had any problems with my WD-82838.

It went from mid 70's to 60's with a lot of humidity from rain and the doors were open.

Any other reason why my screen is messed up?

" the center of my TV got really blurry"

The screen is actually 2 screens. If the 2 screens separate even a little the image will be out of focus where the inner screen and outer screen have a gap.

When you push on the center and it comes back into focus, gets sharper, because you are pushing the 2 screens back together.

There is a double sided tape strip along the top edge and then rubber like pieces along the edge of each holding piece on the inside of the bezel that help keep the 2 screens touching/together.

Some times if the screen has ever so slightly slipped down you can carefully push them back up and they'll stay together.

Temperature could effect the symptom. The outside screen and the inside screen might be sensitive to the screen on the outside being a different temp than the inside one which impacts the slight air gap you have between them.

Permanent fix would be to take the bezel off, not as hard as it sounds, remove the brackets along the inside edges, carefully maybe with gloves on reposition the screens, see if that tape needs to be replaced, put brackets back on, bezel back on.

While temperature extremes could certainly cause issues, it's highly unlikely that temps in the mid 60's would be a problem as that just isn't all that cold and should be well within the operating temperature range of the TV (which Mitsubishi oddly doesn't list in the manual).

Here is how I fixed it.

Turned a box fan to the TV and ran it all day long. Eventually, the TV started to clear up.

The bezel will be coming off soon, there is a spider web floating in the mirror and it definitely needs to be cleaned..

I am almost certain that the humidity was what caused the problem.

I just connected a HTPC via HDMI to my system. It connects to my Yamaha RX-V2700, then to my 738. I can't see all of the screen / desktop. if I run NetFlix, I don't see the buttons on the bottom right hand corner, as an example.

On page 18 of the manual, it talks about using the Format button to change it when you have a computer connected. It says for 1080p, I need to select REDUCE, but that option does not come up when I hit the Format key. I only get stretch, zoom, and standard.

I do not want to change the HTPC computer screen resolutions, as it's set to what it should be, 1920 x 1080.

How can I set the TV to the correct settting (reduce)?

Thanks!

Use the control panel in your video card settings to adjust the desktop size.

Which brand of card do you have

I shouldn't have to change it on my HTPC. I want to know why the TV "Reduce" option is not showing up like the manual says it should.

My HTPC has a Intel HD Graphics 4000 and I don't see that option to adjust desktop size.

It's Scaling with Intel control panel in the top (maybe General) menu on advanced mode.

The TV isn't going to take care of that much over scan.

Ok, I will look at that option.

I would still like to understand why the option that is listed in the manual doesn't appear at all. Maybe it wouldn't deal with the overscan, but there must be a reason why it't missing altogether.

Set your input name to PC and it'll probably show

Ok, when I change the name to PC, the screen goes blue - no signal. I had to put it back to HDMI-3. Not sure why just changing the name would make it lose the picture. Very weird and I would like to understand why.

On the bright side, the video scaling adjustment on the HTPC worked. I had to reduce to 65% for horizonal and 63% for vertical, so it was way over. Fits the screen perfect now.


I now have another small issue. In playing around with all of this, I lost all of my custom ADV settings. I found a old print out of a page I got from this forum, so I'm using that as my starting point.

I know this is highly subjective, but I would still like to get feedback on what you all have for settings / recommandations.

Mine are set to this for all inputs:

Picture Mode: ADV
DeepField Imager: off
Super Resolution: off
EdgeEnhance: off
Video Noise: off
Brightness: 31
Contrast: 55
Color: 40
Tint: 31
Sharpness: 25
Gamma: 2.0
Red High: 1023
Green High: 1023
Blue High: 1023
Red Low: 0
Green Low: 0
Blue Low: 0
Blue Only: Off
Red Adjust: 15, 0, 0
Green Adjust: 0, 15, 0
Blue Adjust: 0, 0, 15
Magenta Adjust: 15, 0, 15
Cyan Adjust: 0, 15, 15
Yellow Adjust: 15, 15, 0

Film Mode = off
Smooth 120 = off
Lamp Energy = bright

Thanks!

If I remember correctly, just rename your input back to what it was before you started messing with this all. Unless you did the color settings reset, you should have those settings.

it didn't work, so perhaps I was not paying attention and reset it. In any case, I still want feedback on what everyone has for settings.

I cannot answer that for you. I have a 2009 isf calibrated but I'll give you mine

Currently, I'm using my WD-73838 is my primary monitor and I must say it's pretty awesome at 1920 x 1080 resolution :-) I'm using Radeon HD 7970's in crossfire mode connected via HDMI of course since the card luckily also provides HD sound. I use "Media Box" as the input source not "PC" since for some unknown reason assigning it as "PC" caused me issues. Note your graphics card driver needs to have a manual scaling option so you can control over/under scan on your HDTV or you will never get the display correct. AMD drivers seem perfect for HTPC utilization.

My 73738 had some "stardust" going on for 2 days last week that then dissipeared, and my set has shut itself off 3 times since. Then I started to watch walking dead last night (via htpc) and within the time of the show I had to adjust brightness 4 times. Within a few hours of internet usage, gaming, etc, I had to set it from normal to bright bulb and adjust my brightness, gamma, contrast, etc all the way just to see. Now my screen is so dim this morning I had to turn off all the lights and cover the windows to see.

Pretty sure bulb is going out, but with the other issues that happened within the past week I want to go cheap until I can make sure the set is still working. How hard is it to (or is there any reason not to) simply switch out a OEM bulb instead of buying the OEM bulb with housing. I can save 35 bucks going this way, and am pretty proficient with electronics. I would just go with a knockoff until I was sure set was fine, but it seems some of them are causing further issues.

Sounds like your lamp to me.

I went cheap on old Mitts 65", just purchasing the lamp without the housing. It's not that hard to change out. Took me about 10 minutes to do the swap. Just ware gloves cuz you don't want to touch the lamp wth your hands. Also take a picture or two of how the lamp and wires are setup, so you have a reference. I removed mine so fast, then I had to play with it cuz I wasn't sure about the position and wire. Funny how fast you can forget what it looked like. LOL

good luck!

Update on my 82838:

Tech came out and installed the new light engine from MITS. Slapped the new OEM bulb from MITS in and woila.... Bright screen and NO FLICKERING. It was indeed somewhere in the light engine but we'll never know exactly what it was. So thankful to have a restored bright screen again and looks like new!

Quick question. The lamp hours didn't reset; mainly because I think he backed up the settings from the main board.

Is there a way to reset the lamp hour timer?

Thanks just put one on order.

Just walked in the door 5 minutes ago and decided to give it one more shot and am now getting the red light of death (bulb indicator). I was just shocked to see it go that fast, as I had read up on it before purchase and put off ordering a bulb right away as it seemed I would have at least a few days of it dimming. I guess as long as it powers up fine and I get no more sparkels over the next week I'll order another as a backup right away.

You should be fine. Sometimes they go fast, that's normal. You'll need to adjust those settings back down as soon as ou fire up the tv with the new lamp.

BTW - anything over 5000 hours is good. Do a lamp hour check to see where you are. It's always good to track how many hours you get from each lamp.

That's great Pro.

They do the whole thing, black plastic part that holds the lamp, ballast and the metal light engine?

Anyone else want to share their settings?

Update on my bulb replacement...

Got new bulb in today from Shop Jimmy's. Checked right away to make sure they sent out the osram (which they did) then came backto it a bit later for switch out.

Pulled old bulb out of housing and wiped down the small amount of dust that had accumulated on housing with a paper towel. (it was very noticeably blown). Replaced with new bulb which had same exact markings except had the addition of what looked like "Brc" in small print in the lower left side of print. Additionally the reflective surface on the new one looked a bit darker than the old. (I'm adding this as the problems I'm facing seem similar to the ones I read from people who got off brand bulbs and want to know if anyone has been any knockoffs floating around with osram stamped on them)

Once fired up I immediately went into settings and was navigating to the screen settings as the set started to flicker multiple colors and make a sound that could easily be mistaken as a breeding call you might hear at your local zoo. I was able to get settings and change from adv to natural before it went out completely with a status light. I then unplugged TV, replugged, and gave it a couple minutes to sit before trying again and reaching the same exact results. After unplugging and letting it sit 30min or so I repelled housing, checked all connections on bulb and checked both male and female power connections inside of TV and outside of housing for wear or damage. Everything looked as it should be so I reinserted and gave the TV one last shot at powering up. Below is the last 5 or so seconds of what occurs when I try to turn on my TV. The video was started immediately following the Mitsubishi splash screen.
http://tinypic.com/r/10ef1xh/6

Doing a bunch of reading on it right now, but am I right in assuming it is probably a color wheel issue?
Either way after a bit more research and maybe a solution here that has simply escaped me, I plan on putting in a claim with Square Trade unless some miracle happens in the mean time. Thogh the majority of my larger ticket items in my house are through them this would be my first claim. Short of requesting a copy of my warranty online (which I will be doing momentarily) I can't seem to find the details in the my warranties section (though I thought that is where they used to be). Does anyone know if I have voided my warranty by changing out just the bulb instead of full housing myself? (Pretty sure not but it would be nice to know before making a claim and finding out I'm screwed)

Thinking the sound was made by the spinning color wheel breaking......

They are not that hard to replace by the way.