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2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 289

post #8641 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

If you buy the lamp and housing from Mitsubishi for ~$100, it's a quick 5 minute job (if it even takes that long). If you buy just the bulb, you have to install the new bulb into your old housing, which may or may not be an adventure. If you get a 3rd party lamp or housing, you may run into issues with a cheap lamp or a housing that doesn't fit. IMHO, it's not worth the potential hassles to save a few bucks, so I'll just order the correct part from Mitsubishi when the time comes.

Appreciate the quick answer. Fortunately, I bought directly from Mitsu! Fears alleviated...
post #8642 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwitchbladeHD View Post

Anyone else want to share their settings?


See post #8442.
post #8643 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schack View Post

See post #8442.

Thanks - missed that one.

Just curious, did you try the Brilliant setting? I know it makes everything much brighter, but compared to what you have now, I was wondering what you thought of the Brilliant option. I have a bright family room, so this setting actually looks good. I know this setting looks like crap in low light rooms, or even at night, but during the day it's ok.
post #8644 of 8788
My TV is in a dark room and I like the brilliant setting for 3D movies. In my set up 3D movies seem very dark and the brilliant setting really brings the colors out while watching 3D.
post #8645 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougReim View Post

My TV is in a dark room and I like the brilliant setting for 3D movies. In my set up 3D movies seem very dark and the brilliant setting really brings the colors out while watching 3D.

I use the brilliant setting. I tried several of the advanced settings posted and they all look either too dark or too washed out for my taste. My set is also in a rather bright room.

I dialed back the contrast and brightness and use the settings below. These settings look pretty darn good to me.

Cont 43
Brightness 25
Color 24
Tint 31
Sharpness 45
Color Temp High
Video Noise High
Edge Enhance On
Deep Field On

Film Mode On
Smooth 120 On

I tried experimenting with the Edge Enhance, Deep Field, Film Mode and Smooth 120 to different combinations of OFF and ON and I really don't see much difference. Anyone else have similar experience or care to comment on my settings?
post #8646 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRO710HD View Post

I use the brilliant setting. I tried several of the advanced settings posted and they all look either too dark or too washed out for my taste. My set is also in a rather bright room.

I dialed back the contrast and brightness and use the settings below. These settings look pretty darn good to me.

Cont 43
Brightness 25
Color 24
Tint 31
Sharpness 45
Color Temp High
Video Noise High
Edge Enhance On
Deep Field On

Film Mode On
Smooth 120 On

I tried experimenting with the Edge Enhance, Deep Field, Film Mode and Smooth 120 to different combinations of OFF and ON and I really don't see much difference. Anyone else have similar experience or care to comment on my settings?

Try it w/ video noise/edge enhance/deep field/smooth 120 all off...
post #8647 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougReim View Post

My TV is in a dark room and I like the brilliant setting for 3D movies. In my set up 3D movies seem very dark and the brilliant setting really brings the colors out while watching 3D.

I have also notice that 3D is not very bright. I brought this up with the guy who calibrated my set (he was not much of a 3D fan) and he suggested that I might try the factory picture settings for 3D rather than his calibrated ones. The factory settings do seem to be "brighter" for 3D, with Natural being my favorite. I use Bright from time to time, but Brilliant distorts the color and flesh tones too much for me. While I think 3D actually looks pretty good on these sets (I have a 82-838) brightness is an issue. I wonder if the laser light engine would solve the brightness issue for 3D.
post #8648 of 8788
I believe the 82" set has the same bulb as the 73". It has a little bit more real estate to light up.
post #8649 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougReim View Post

I believe the 82" set has the same bulb as the 73". It has a little bit more real estate to light up.
That's what I think the problem's been all along. Not sure why they didn't think bigger screen=bigger lamp...
post #8650 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by rightintel View Post

That's what I think the problem's been all along. Not sure why they didn't think bigger screen=bigger lamp...

Anyone know if it's possible to buy and install a "brighter" lamp than Mitsubishi supplies with these sets-especially for the 82" sets where using the same bulb as the 73" sets doesn't seem to make much sense.
post #8651 of 8788
Probably would require a different ballast.
post #8652 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schack View Post

Anyone know if it's possible to buy and install a "brighter" lamp than Mitsubishi supplies with these sets-especially for the 82" sets where using the same bulb as the 73" sets doesn't seem to make much sense.

Some of the Chinese lamps are 200 watts as opposed to the OEM of 180 watts. I know Shop Jimmy sells them. I inquired about it and they assured me that they will work. Who knows for sure what effect it would have good or bad.
post #8653 of 8788
Might as well but a new power supply and ballast there after the 200 watt Burns it out
post #8654 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by AnthonyB View Post

Might as well but a new power supply and ballast there after the 200 watt Burns it out

Thing about that is we don't know what the rating of the power supply and ballast is and if it can handle an additional 20 watts for long periods of time.
post #8655 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

Thing about that is we don't know what the rating of the power supply and ballast is and if it can handle an additional 20 watts for long periods of time.
I think that was sort of his point wink.gif.
post #8656 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsr View Post

I think that was sort of his point wink.gif.

No I see it as his view being it will burnout, my view is I don't now.
post #8657 of 8788
I know one thing, it'd be a good way to start a fire. Please read the SAFETY page of your manual.
post #8658 of 8788
Thanks for posting. Your settings have made a noticeable improvement in my directv viewing. Really cleared up the bloc thinness own faces/flesh tones.

EdL;)
post #8659 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schack View Post

I had my WD-82838 professionally calibrated on 09/27/2011. Cost me $450 but thought it really improved the PQ. Here are the results:


Calibration Results.pdf 761k .pdf file


Quote:
Originally Posted by EdL View Post

Thanks for posting. Your settings have made a noticeable improvement in my directv viewing. Really cleared up the bloc thinness own faces/flesh tones.

EdL;)
post #8660 of 8788
This past weekend I was playing black ops 2 on my PS3 when all of a sudden the picture froze. I could still hear the game playing through my receiver speakers. Then the picture on TV turned off and the green light was flashing rapidly. I tried hitting the power button but that wouldn't turn the TV back on. I waited about 30 -45 seconds more and hit the power button and the TV turned back on and played normally. Anyone experience this before. Not sure if this is a sign of something that is aging and may become worse as it ages.
post #8661 of 8788
I have experienced this several times in the past 2 1/2 years, but it has never concerned me. I have just assumed that the tv received some bizarre signal from the source which triggered a protection circuit to protect the lamp and the electronics. If you simply wait until the green light stops flashing, you can power up the set again and all will be well. Incidentally, my 72838 has been absolutely trouble-free for almost three years now and my lamp life has been 5000 hours or more. I am reaching that point on my second lamp.
post #8662 of 8788
I've had that happen too. I would call it a bug in the firmware that was never addressed.
post #8663 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by TViewer2000 View Post

Then the picture on TV turned off and the green light was flashing rapidly. I tried hitting the power button but that wouldn't turn the TV back on. I waited about 30 -45 seconds more and hit the power button and the TV turned back on and played normally. Anyone experience this before. Not sure if this is a sign of something that is aging and may become worse as it ages.

Yes and this is the info that I found when mine did this. I disabled the HDMI controls as well ,on the TV and my AVR. I have not had the problem again.


3. TV turned itself off and the light on the front panel started to flash.

• Momentary power fluctuation can cause the TV to turn off
to prevent damage. Wait for the green light to stop flashing
and turn the TV on again.
• If the TV does not stay on, press the POWER button on the
control panel for ten seconds to perform System Reset. If
this happens frequently, obtain an AC line power conditioner/
surge protector.
• An unusual digital signal may have been received, triggering a
protection circuit. Wait for the light to stop flashing and turn TV
on.
post #8664 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schack View Post

I have also notice that 3D is not very bright. I brought this up with the guy who calibrated my set (he was not much of a 3D fan) and he suggested that I might try the factory picture settings for 3D rather than his calibrated ones. The factory settings do seem to be "brighter" for 3D, with Natural being my favorite. I use Bright from time to time, but Brilliant distorts the color and flesh tones too much for me. While I think 3D actually looks pretty good on these sets (I have a 82-838) brightness is an issue. I wonder if the laser light engine would solve the brightness issue for 3D.



I did some searching on the internet for Mitsubishi lamps and found a place called ShopJimmy which had 3 lamps for my TV--they called them "good"," better", and "best". The prices respectively were approximately $80,$90, and $100. I E-mailed them and asked about the difference and was told the "good "and "better" lamps had bulbs made by OSRAM (China) and the "best" lamps had bulbs made by PHILLIPS. I was also told that the PHILLIPs bulbs would last the longest and would be the brightest. The lamp I replaced had an OSRAM bulb and the new one I put in (which I ordered directly from Mitsubishi for $100) was also an OSRAM so perhaps there are some brighter bulbs out there, i.e. the PHILLIPS.
post #8665 of 8788
post #8666 of 8788
They quit reviewing DLPs 3-4 years ago. It's no wonder they just now figured out that production stopped.
post #8667 of 8788
I think I will move to a 70" Plasma for my next tv, or maybe the LED LCD, depending on price.

I have purchased two other LED tv's from costco, Visio brand and both of them have a better pricture that my WD65738. mad.gif

RIP is right, time for them to go bye-bye
post #8668 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwitchbladeHD View Post

I think I will move to a 70" Plasma for my next tv, or maybe the LED LCD, depending on price.

I have purchased two other LED tv's from costco, Visio brand and both of them have a better pricture that my WD65738. mad.gif

RIP is right, time for them to go bye-bye

Along w/ any affordable displays 80" or bigger...
post #8669 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by PRO710HD View Post

I use the brilliant setting. I tried several of the advanced settings posted and they all look either too dark or too washed out for my taste. My set is also in a rather bright room.

I dialed back the contrast and brightness and use the settings below. These settings look pretty darn good to me.

Cont 43
Brightness 25
Color 24
Tint 31
Sharpness 45
Color Temp High
Video Noise High
Edge Enhance On
Deep Field On

Film Mode On
Smooth 120 On

I tried experimenting with the Edge Enhance, Deep Field, Film Mode and Smooth 120 to different combinations of OFF and ON and I really don't see much difference. Anyone else have similar experience or care to comment on my settings?

Preferences are preferences... but this is about as inaccurate a setting as you can possibly create... Brilliant is complete BS... the colors are wrong, the gamma cure is pitiful and the grey scale you are using is a bluescale. Complete garbage as advice.. Running the sharpness at 45 when maybe 7 or more cause a ton of artifacts, noise is reduction is a joke. I understand people can be clueless but franklly it is embarrassing to see advice like this without a chorus of people calling you out on it.
post #8670 of 8788
Quote:
Originally Posted by Schack View Post

Anyone know if it's possible to buy and install a "brighter" lamp than Mitsubishi supplies with these sets-especially for the 82" sets where using the same bulb as the 73" sets doesn't seem to make much sense.

The 2011 and 2012 sets still use a 156/180 watt lamp but are much brighter especially those that have the clear screens. i have a 2009 82" which is terribly dim even with a fresh lamp on bright after the first 100 hours or so. My 2011 92" makes a ton more light than the older set. With a couple hundred hours on a new lamp you will make 50 to 60 percent more light out of the 2011 92" then the 2009 82".. plus the color is much better. Color is still wonky (not linear) and I recommend a Radiance and 125 point calibration to get it right but it looks freaking sensational... The 2011 clear screen 82" would probably make twice as much light at my 2009 82 with the same hours on the same wattage lamp.

BTW, I have 4200 hours on my set and I am about ready to spend a $100 to do my second lamp remplacement... Even with a clear screen the 92: should have been equipped with a 210 watt lamp so you could run in it standard mode and not need to change it every 2000 hours. If you are as fussy as I am about color, you are calibrating every couple of months as the lamp ages. Fortunately it is a simple automated process with ChromaPure and the Radiance XS.
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