2010 Mitsubishi 3D DLP Owners Thread (738/838 series) - Page 289

He had to swap some part I believe, the plastic black part that you talked about. I'm not sure about the ballast but he definitely replaced the light engine.

Sounds like Bloodkill is having the same issue as me? I'm just elated to have my TV picture back and as bright and solid as it was when new!!

Is it that big of a deal to replace the lamp? Mine's not dead yet, but i just assumed it was like a 5 minute deal. Now you guys have got me all worried...

If you buy the lamp and housing from Mitsubishi for ~$100, it's a quick 5 minute job (if it even takes that long). If you buy just the bulb, you have to install the new bulb into your old housing, which may or may not be an adventure. If you get a 3rd party lamp or housing, you may run into issues with a cheap lamp or a housing that doesn't fit. IMHO, it's not worth the potential hassles to save a few bucks, so I'll just order the correct part from Mitsubishi when the time comes.

Appreciate the quick answer. Fortunately, I bought directly from Mitsu! Fears alleviated...

See post #8442.

Thanks - missed that one.

Just curious, did you try the Brilliant setting? I know it makes everything much brighter, but compared to what you have now, I was wondering what you thought of the Brilliant option. I have a bright family room, so this setting actually looks good. I know this setting looks like crap in low light rooms, or even at night, but during the day it's ok.

My TV is in a dark room and I like the brilliant setting for 3D movies. In my set up 3D movies seem very dark and the brilliant setting really brings the colors out while watching 3D.

I use the brilliant setting. I tried several of the advanced settings posted and they all look either too dark or too washed out for my taste. My set is also in a rather bright room.

I dialed back the contrast and brightness and use the settings below. These settings look pretty darn good to me.

Cont 43
Brightness 25
Color 24
Tint 31
Sharpness 45
Color Temp High
Video Noise High
Edge Enhance On
Deep Field On

Film Mode On
Smooth 120 On

I tried experimenting with the Edge Enhance, Deep Field, Film Mode and Smooth 120 to different combinations of OFF and ON and I really don't see much difference. Anyone else have similar experience or care to comment on my settings?

Try it w/ video noise/edge enhance/deep field/smooth 120 all off...

I have also notice that 3D is not very bright. I brought this up with the guy who calibrated my set (he was not much of a 3D fan) and he suggested that I might try the factory picture settings for 3D rather than his calibrated ones. The factory settings do seem to be "brighter" for 3D, with Natural being my favorite. I use Bright from time to time, but Brilliant distorts the color and flesh tones too much for me. While I think 3D actually looks pretty good on these sets (I have a 82-838) brightness is an issue. I wonder if the laser light engine would solve the brightness issue for 3D.

I believe the 82" set has the same bulb as the 73". It has a little bit more real estate to light up.

That's what I think the problem's been all along. Not sure why they didn't think bigger screen=bigger lamp...

Anyone know if it's possible to buy and install a "brighter" lamp than Mitsubishi supplies with these sets-especially for the 82" sets where using the same bulb as the 73" sets doesn't seem to make much sense.

Probably would require a different ballast.

Some of the Chinese lamps are 200 watts as opposed to the OEM of 180 watts. I know Shop Jimmy sells them. I inquired about it and they assured me that they will work. Who knows for sure what effect it would have good or bad.

Might as well but a new power supply and ballast there after the 200 watt Burns it out

Thing about that is we don't know what the rating of the power supply and ballast is and if it can handle an additional 20 watts for long periods of time.

I think that was sort of his point .

No I see it as his view being it will burnout, my view is I don't now.

I know one thing, it'd be a good way to start a fire. Please read the SAFETY page of your manual.

Thanks for posting. Your settings have made a noticeable improvement in my directv viewing. Really cleared up the bloc thinness own faces/flesh tones.

EdL;)

This past weekend I was playing black ops 2 on my PS3 when all of a sudden the picture froze. I could still hear the game playing through my receiver speakers. Then the picture on TV turned off and the green light was flashing rapidly. I tried hitting the power button but that wouldn't turn the TV back on. I waited about 30 -45 seconds more and hit the power button and the TV turned back on and played normally. Anyone experience this before. Not sure if this is a sign of something that is aging and may become worse as it ages.

I have experienced this several times in the past 2 1/2 years, but it has never concerned me. I have just assumed that the tv received some bizarre signal from the source which triggered a protection circuit to protect the lamp and the electronics. If you simply wait until the green light stops flashing, you can power up the set again and all will be well. Incidentally, my 72838 has been absolutely trouble-free for almost three years now and my lamp life has been 5000 hours or more. I am reaching that point on my second lamp.

I've had that happen too. I would call it a bug in the firmware that was never addressed.

Yes and this is the info that I found when mine did this. I disabled the HDMI controls as well ,on the TV and my AVR. I have not had the problem again.


3. TV turned itself off and the light on the front panel started to flash.

• Momentary power fluctuation can cause the TV to turn off
to prevent damage. Wait for the green light to stop flashing
and turn the TV on again.
• If the TV does not stay on, press the POWER button on the
control panel for ten seconds to perform System Reset. If
this happens frequently, obtain an AC line power conditioner/
surge protector.
• An unusual digital signal may have been received, triggering a
protection circuit. Wait for the light to stop flashing and turn TV
on.

I did some searching on the internet for Mitsubishi lamps and found a place called ShopJimmy which had 3 lamps for my TV--they called them "good"," better", and "best". The prices respectively were approximately $80,$90, and $100. I E-mailed them and asked about the difference and was told the "good "and "better" lamps had bulbs made by OSRAM (China) and the "best" lamps had bulbs made by PHILLIPS. I was also told that the PHILLIPs bulbs would last the longest and would be the brightest. The lamp I replaced had an OSRAM bulb and the new one I put in (which I ordered directly from Mitsubishi for $100) was also an OSRAM so perhaps there are some brighter bulbs out there, i.e. the PHILLIPS.

R.I.P...
http://www.hometheater.com/content/rear-projection-tv-rip-mitsubishi-pulls-final-plug

They quit reviewing DLPs 3-4 years ago. It's no wonder they just now figured out that production stopped.

I think I will move to a 70" Plasma for my next tv, or maybe the LED LCD, depending on price.

I have purchased two other LED tv's from costco, Visio brand and both of them have a better pricture that my WD65738.

RIP is right, time for them to go bye-bye