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Use Oppo's 1/2 zoom or turn off strecth for 16:9?

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
During recent move to new house, I decided to go CIH in my new HT setup. I'm using a 2.35:1 Carada BW 136" screen, Prismasonic FE1800, JVC RS20 and Oppo BD player. The Oppo is great for CIH because of its ability to move the subtitles, but I also found that I can use the 1/2 Zoom option to watch a 16:9 movie that fills the exact space on the screen as if I turned off the V-stretch in the JVC and used Pass mode on the A-lens.

Maybe it's my old eyes, but I don't notice any difference in PQ and it's easier to use the Oppo Zoom than toggling the V-stretch in the JVC and using the A-lens mechanical function to moving the lens out from Stretch to Pass (and back). There's no wear-and-tear either on the A-lens this way.

Any one else use this feature with the Oppo in a CIH or do you still move the lens and turn-off the V-stretch in the JVC or your VP?

I guess using the Oppo 1/2 Zoom to negate the V-stretch and A-lens adds some element of distortion, but I don't really see any (which is all that matters in my case). However, if anyone with better eyes finds it unacceptable, your input is appreciated too.
post #2 of 17
I think this sounds like the 'shrink' method I used to use when I first got my HD350 and had a Lumagen HDQ VP. I'd zoom the 2.35:1 image to fill my screen and for 16:9 trailers and menus I used this 'shrink' setting (aka 1/2 zoom perhaps?). This means that 16:9 content is displayed using approx 1400 x 800 pixels (so still 'better' than a HD ready projector) surrounded by black bars on all four sides. I didn't tend to watch a whole film this way (I'd zoom back if I knew it was a 1.85:1 AR on a BluRay, but for DVDs I figured it didn't matter) but trailers and SD TV looked fine to me.

If you're happy with the results then just enjoy, it's certainly convienient: Even now I tend to leave my lens in place and use the Horizontal squeeze button on my Edge's remote for quick AR changes to 16:9.
post #3 of 17
I have the 83 and used that feature for about three months while I was deciding on which A-Lens to go with. Actually it works well if your a zoomer as the resulting image is shrank to about a 1.90, working much like panasonic's s16x9 mode which places a 16x9 window inside a zoomed 800x1920 window. However doing this with your lens in the lite path does introduce geometric distortions.
post #4 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelvin1965S View Post

I think this sounds like the 'shrink' method I used to use when I first got my HD350 and had a Lumagen HDQ VP. I'd zoom the 2.35:1 image to fill my screen and for 16:9 trailers and menus I used this 'shrink' setting (aka 1/2 zoom perhaps?). This means that 16:9 content is displayed using approx 1400 x 800 pixels (so still 'better' than a HD ready projector) surrounded by black bars on all four sides. I didn't tend to watch a whole film this way (I'd zoom back if I knew it was a 1.85:1 AR on a BluRay, but for DVDs I figured it didn't matter) but trailers and SD TV looked fine to me.

If you're happy with the results then just enjoy, it's certainly convienient: Even now I tend to leave my lens in place and use the Horizontal squeeze button on my Edge's remote for quick AR changes to 16:9.

I'm not sure, but I don't think it works as you described the HDQ. I use the JVC V-stretch and A-lens to project 2.35:1 image onto same size screen with no bars. But with 16:9, I just leave those alone and using the 1/2 zoom, the 16:9 fills the screen exactly as the 2.35:1 image except with black bars on the side. Same as if I turned off the V-stretch and removed the A-lens (or used Pass mode).

I'm just not sure if this approach is bad. I'm guessing that with the V-stretch, A-lens, then Oppo 1/2 zoom, there's clearly extra processing and lens effect. It's just that I don't notice much using the V-stretch and A-lens for 2.35:1 and adding the extra 1/2 zoom for 16:9 doesn't appear to add anything more.

I'll keep playing with it and also try not using the JVC V-stretch, but just using the Oppo for stretch with the A-lens along with no VP and Pass mode for 16:9.
post #5 of 17
What you're saying is that you leave the lens in place and use a mode on the player to give you a perfect 16:9 image with black bars at the sides. If that's the case, then a few people here do do that, so you're not alone.

Gary
post #6 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Lightfoot View Post

What you're saying is that you leave the lens in place and use a mode on the player to give you a perfect 16:9 image with black bars at the sides. If that's the case, then a few people here do do that, so you're not alone.

Gary

Yes, that's exactly what I do. The 1/2 zoom brings the 16:9 back into the screen area with bars on the side; same as if I had no A-lens and V-Stretch when projecting a 16:9 movie on the 21:9 screen. Glad to know that others follow the same approach.

I was just wondering if using this approach adds too much processing and warrant going through the process of turning off all VP and moving the A-lens out of the way. In my case, that's not too hard with my FE1800R lens since it can be switched remotely from Passthru to Stretch and back. It's a trade-off between what's easier and less mechanical wear vs. no digital VP.

Guess I need to play around some more, setting up macros (hopefully with discrete codes), and seeing how much difference it makes to my eyes and those of my wife's and guests.

I'm just glad that the Oppo gives me that choice along with some many other great benefits and features.
post #7 of 17
I had an H1000 lens which was very similar to your current lens, and like you, I found that I couldn't tell the difference between pass through mode and just scaling the image horizontally for 16:9. It got to the stage where I never used pass through mode, and then when I replaced it with an ISCO II, I fixed the lens in place with no intent of moving it and just used scaling for 16:9.

I think Mark (CAVX) also has a fixed lens at the moment as he had similar findings.

Gary
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
Gary,

Thanks for the confirmation. I really don't see any difference, so avoiding any mechanical or other movement of the lens seems like the best approach.

Now I just need a discrete code for the Oppo 1/2 Zoom and Full/Normal to plug into a Harmony to make it wife-friendly. Otherwise, she's just going to have to cycle through the numerous zoom options. Oh, ain't life hard.
post #9 of 17
Steve
I have always been a proponent for leaving the lens in. Now that I've stepped up to a Isco 3 I see no difference and just leave the lens in using the mode 2 aka the horizontal squeeze aka 4:3 on my BenQ projector. I too have the Oppo BDP-83. For the vertical stretch I've compared using the Oppo vs the BenQ's Letterbox and don't really see a difference. As you know using a A-Lens stretch's the image 33%. Switching to 1/2 zoom brings the sides in an equal amount on all four sides. Hence my referencing geometric distortions. Can you explain to me how your 16x9 playback isn't filled with a stretched picture? Are you leaving your projector in letterbox mode while using 1/2 zoom with the Oppo?
post #10 of 17
Thread Starter 
I'm using the V-Stretch feature in the JVC along with the Lens to project 2.35:1 material. Obviously, there are no bars in the CIH setup. When I play 1.85:1 material, the top and bottom of the material is cut-off. Leaving the A-lens and V-Stretch in place, I'm able to toggle through the Oppo Zoom settings to the 1/2 zoom which reduces the 1.85:1 picture to where the top and bottom fit perfectly on the screen with black bars on the sides. Same as if I turned off the V-Stretch and removed the lens. The projector always remains in 16:9 mode with V-Stretch turned on. There is no geometric distortion. It's a nearly perfect 1.85:1 picture displayed on a 2.35:1 screen and Constant Image Height is maintained.
post #11 of 17
I think I read that some members have used the 1/2 zoom feature as a version of the 'shrink' method. Where scope films are simply zoomed to fit the screen without a lens and then the 1/2 zoom downscales 1.78/1.85 material to fit the screen height. The way you're using it there is some extra scaling(JVC) and optical stretching(lens) going on but the geometry winds up the same. Some people would be bothered by the idea of doing this, but if it looks good that's all that matters. If nothing else, it could be used as a quick way to navigate menus and special features on 2.35:1 BDs.
post #12 of 17
The only problem with this method is unless you have a projector that produces amazing black on fade out, you have grey pillar-box on the sides still showing am I not correct? But this is no problem if you have side movable masking, but maybe a problem for some who don't.

Its a bit like the zoomers who finally decided they couldn't live with the grey bars showing any longer above and below their screens and finally bought an A lens.
post #13 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post

I'm using the V-Stretch feature in the JVC along with the Lens to project 2.35:1 material. Obviously, there are no bars in the CIH setup. When I play 1.85:1 material, the top and bottom of the material is cut-off. Leaving the A-lens and V-Stretch in place, I'm able to toggle through the Oppo Zoom settings to the 1/2 zoom which reduces the 1.85:1 picture to where the top and bottom fit perfectly on the screen with black bars on the sides. Same as if I turned off the V-Stretch and removed the lens. The projector always remains in 16:9 mode with V-Stretch turned on. There is no geometric distortion. It's a nearly perfect 1.85:1 picture displayed on a 2.35:1 screen and Constant Image Height is maintained.

Absolutely. I was thrown off at first before I realized what you were doing. Geometry is correct. One very important benefit of this method is that a lot of projector came with the vertical stretch (mode 1) but didn't have the horizontal squeeze mode (mode 2) so that the lens could be stationary. This can become the HS mode albeit with a slightly different AR. Here some pics to demonstrate.



post #14 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by RapalloAV View Post

The only problem with this method is unless you have a projector that produces amazing black on fade out, you have grey pillar-box on the sides still showing am I not correct? But this is no problem if you have side movable masking, but maybe a problem for some who don't.

Its a bit like the zoomers who finally decided they couldn't live with the grey bars showing any longer above and below their screens and finally bought an A lens.

Its a none issue. I'm not bothered in the least. The difference in pillarboxing and letterboxing is night and day.
post #15 of 17
Forgive the Pics. The pictures were taken very quickly and posted. However, they were taken at the same time so they are relative to each other.
post #16 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5mark View Post

If nothing else, it could be used as a quick way to navigate menus and special features on 2.35:1 BDs.

Exactly! Looking for an easy way to see the entire menu was what lead me to stumble across this feature on the Oppo. The Underscan zoom is close, but 1/2 zoom is perfect for throwing up the 16:9 material on a 2.35:1 screen without changing the typical settings (lens and V-stretch) for scoped material.
post #17 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RapalloAV View Post

The only problem with this method is unless you have a projector that produces amazing black on fade out, you have grey pillar-box on the sides still showing am I not correct? But this is no problem if you have side movable masking, but maybe a problem for some who don't.

Its a bit like the zoomers who finally decided they couldn't live with the grey bars showing any longer above and below their screens and finally bought an A lens.

Not sure I'm following you. If you build a CIH setup, you do so to eliminate the "gray" bars on top and bottom since most movies are scoped. You also use all of the 1920x1080 pixels via V-stretch and A-lens, which is another benefit (more detail and lumens). Hopefully, that offsets any negatives from lens and VP.

The only way to eliminate "gray" bars on 16:9 film in a CIH setup is to zoom in and end up cropping the top and bottom. That's not good. In a CIH setup, yes you'll have bars on the sides for 16:9 material, but sides are easier to mask than top and bottom (since you're not fighting gravity). There's also less noticeable as they're on the sides vs. across the entire field of view throughout the movie.

And it's practically a moot point because with my RS20 and bat-cave, I'm getting a much better fade-to-black than any movie theater I've even seen. The RS20 is truly amazing when calibrated and in the proper environment. I was going to mask the sides with velvet panels that hang down, but have moved that project to the back-burner.
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