Official Sony XBR HX909 owners' thread (52HX909, 46HX909, HX9, HX900) - Page 85

so i'm assuming this worked for you?

Last year I found the auto-update was not bothering to work, so I did it via USB.

Is the TV reading the USB device, finding the firmware, but then saying it cannot update? Or is it saying it just cannot read the USB full stop?

If the latter, then perhaps your USB is not FAT32 formatted, but NTSC formatted?

anyway to update the tv via ps3 ?

this: the is TV reading the USB device, finding the firmware, but then saying it cannot update

That is not good. There are two possbile reasons.... you have the wrong firmware for your models region (there could be different firmware for the HX900 HX903 HX909 e.t.c, I cannot remember exactly) or there is something wrong with the tv itself.

Sony has good support for these high end models. If the TV is still under warranty lodge a support ticket describing the problems. They will put you in contact with the nearest Sony repair centre. At that point try and have a technician come out onsite. Once there he will know how to upgrade the firmware.

Well, my internet video content finally works again!
I guess it finally updated automatically. I usually unplug the ethernet cord when I turn it off for the night cuz it gets in the way, but I forgot to last night.

There was just a firmware update on 06/08/2011. I checked the version I have and it is the latest, so my auto-update is working properly. USB never worked for me, this is why I went with the auto-update feature.

I'm certain the firmware isn't the issue because I chose my model number on sonystyle support site. And i'm just hoping it's not the latter.

In any case, I did the forced update like Opentoe mentioned and it worked, so problem solved.

New proud owner!

Just set it up this morning. I have two questions...

Is there ANY way to avoid buying the way overpriced Sony USB wireless adapter? I tried two different devices I had around as well as my Xbox 360 adapter.

Also, if I get the firmware update on a USB, how do I initiate the upgrade?

Thanks for any and all responses.

If you don't mind another device you have to plug in, you can configure most wireless routers to act as a wireless bridge-- it will basically camp on your existing wi-fi network and connect wired devices over Ethernet.

Right now I'm using an old Airport Express base station that I had as a spare to bridge onto the Wi-Fi. If you have any spare wireless gear sitting around your house it might be something to look into.

Can anyone confirm that the 2011 TDG-BR250 glasses work with the HX909? I saw somewhere on this thread mention so, but everywhere else (including SonyStyle website) says it won't.

As well, if someone has both the 2010 TDG-BR100 & the 2011 TDG-BR250, can they do a comparison for us all - specifically comfort, picture quality/crosstalk, charge time (on the 250s), etc?

Thanks

anyone care to explain how the motionflow works? what is the difference between normal and smooth? i find artifacts with smooth and the go away with normal....what about clear2 and clear2.....

Comfort is much better for the 250s than the 100s, we can watch a 2 hr movie or play games for even longer with very little discomfort as opposed to barely tolerating the 100s for an hour. Unfortunately both will most likely give you eye fatigue after a time which is expected with today's active 3D technology.

Picture quality/cross-talk are very similar, I couldn't detect any significant differences.

The 250s give you roughly 30 hrs with 30 minutes of charge time using a usb rechargable integrated battery while the 100s use a battery that has to be replaced after exhaustion.

I hope this helps.

Thank-you, that's a great review. So to confirm, are you using the 250's with no compatibility problems with your HX909?

Thanks

None whatsoever.

Hello everyone. I need some advice...I currently have a 55hx800 and I am having some issues with clouding. The store where i bought it is offering me a 52HX909 as a replacement (for a small upcharge). I understand that, in theory, the HX909 is supposed to be a better TV. However, many of the review i read say that the picture is disappointing for the price point. They say there is noticeable blooming and a blue tint to all whites. Is this true? Do any of you have any of these issues with your set?

I have to make a decision on this soon. Please give me any info or advice that you can.

Thanks

You would be just crazy not to do it. I've seen both and the 909 trumps the PQ of the HX800.

The HX800 still impressed me but its not even close. My only gripe would be going down from a 55" to a 52" but its still worth it.

thanks for the reply. I was just reading that the hx909 weighs 94lbs! I am not sure my entertainment center will support it. lol

I am still torn as to whether i should live with the clouding on my HX800 or move to the 909.

If the "small upcharge" you speak of combined with what you paid for the hx800 will not end up costing you more than what the msrp of the hx800 is, then to me that's a no-brainer. You'd be getting Sony's flagship model for the price of the hx800, albeit sacrificing a few inches in size.

I would be getting it for CONSIDERABLY less than the MSRP on the HX800. Why are there so many people out their saying that this tv has blooming issues and limited viewing angles as well as bluish tinted blacks?

I just received my 46" hx909 a week ago and am very happy with it. I have not noticed any blue blacks, the blacks are infact quite amazing as described. Blooming only present at sharp viewing angles with white on black. Min to no noticeable blooming straight on with white on black. Viewing angles are Ok which is the only non positive thing I can say about the set. They don't bother me much though because I knew to expect that. Screen uniformity is very good, even with led dynamic backlight off. Very nice looking set when on or off.

I thought I had issues when I purchased my 52HX909 but after my eyes got use to a new TV set (had and still love my DLP Toshiba, awesome picture still) and I made good settings I think the picture is excellent. I can see a little blooming when viewing at an angle but it is very slight and doesn't bother me at all. I'm happy too see those nice bright LEDS there. I've had my new TV for a few months now and I think the picture is incredible. Whites look like milk and blacks look space black. Very awesome with the set. I did see a newer 2011 929 model and wasn't happy at all with paying that much for a TV that didn't even seem to be built stable.

I throw myself on the mercy of the Board
Yes, I have used the search function to try to get the consensus of the best settings for the 52 909.
However this is difficult to do do even with the search function when threads get to be this large.
Any info is appreciated in advance
Michael
Ps just received the TV yesterday and 3D blows me away

Avatar Blu-Ray

Excuse if the pics aint 2 detailed its coming from an android device cell phone.

I've been looking thru alot of peoples post and i see alot of u using Warm 2 as ur color preference instead of Neutral why is that am i missing something here cause to me Warm 2 looks dull and a bit to red on my eyes.

Thank you

Yeah I have that same feeling that the 909 could last me 10 yrs without any build problems while the 929 seems a bit more fragile and with potentially more variable quality throughout the line. However, both sets have advantages over each other and if price was not an issue each should get equal consideration.

Yeah the build quality is definitely more solid on the 909. Once you put the 929 on the monolithic stand i would say build quality is almost equal as that stand is much more stable than the included one.

Yes, I am very happy with the TV as well - the PQ is really beautiful. I really don't get the complaint about bluish-blacks.... the blacks look really true to me! My biggest bitch about the TV would have to be the speakers that are just mediocre..... but no one bothers to put good speakers in TVs these days, except for Bose (LOL!).

As far as price goes.... if you can get it on sale, it is the best value out there IMO.

From Doug Blackburn

The HX909 Owner's thread is cluttered with discussions of many "side issues" but little discussion about experiences with and recommendations for specific settings.

This thread will discuss the merits and drawbacks of various settings as well as keep the recommended settings up to date in 1 place.

This list of recommended settings is subject to change as more is learned about the HX909. I've used a video signal generator to determine correct settings where possible. I won't be able to say a whole lot about instrumented measurements until my review is published in WSR, but I see no harm in discussing basic settings.

(NEW - Try sending RGB to the HX909 instead of YCbCr - if you notice that images are sharper, continue to use RGB - note that sending RGB means keeping 16-235 (different manufacturers have different names for this mode... limited, standard, light are some of them) for 16-235 sources like Blu-ray and switching to 0-255 mode for PC sources and perhaps for some games.)

Updated November 3, 2010 (only change is paragraph "New" above)

Dark Room Viewing setting recommendations:

Scene Select Mode: General

2D Settings
Custom
Backlight - 2
Picture - 82 (produces +/- 35 fL combined with Backlight 2)
Brightness - 50 (remarkable... a factory default that's correct!)
Color - 50
Hue - 0

Color Temp - Warm2 (which is a little too red, Warm1 has a larger Blue bias than the red/yellow bias in Warm2 - you may prefer Warm1 if you are not having the TV calibrated, but you need 1 week of "acclimation" to Warm2 and Warm1 before making a choice - and no switching back and forth... watch each mode exclusively for 1 week before deciding which mode to stick with)

Sharpness - lost my notes and the TV is gone... easily checked with a sharpness test pattern available in just about all test/setup discs - and check it for every Scene Select mode and every Picture Mode you use, because the proper setting does change considerably when you change modes.

Noise Reduction - Low seems harmless for good quality images, helps worse qulity images a little - med and high do hurt detail in images.

MPEG Noise - (ditto)

Motionflow - Clear1 (still preferred overall, but Smooth is "interesting" though very "video looking" compared to all other settings - lots of motion artifacts in Smooth mode if there's a lot of motion on the screen)

CineMotion - Auto1 (this removes 3:2 pulldown from standard definition sources like DVD and uses frame interpolation to improve motion). Auto2 mode removes 3:2 pulldown but does not add interpolated frames. This setting does NOTHING for 720 or 1080 sources.

Black Corrector - Off

Adv. Contrast Enhancer - Off

Gamma - -2 (-2 setting averages 2.3, but it is higher at 30%, lower at 90% - good for 2D). If midtones seem too dark, use -1 to brighten midtones a bit. Black and white do not change when you adjust this control, but everything in between black and white will get lighter (higher numbers) or darker (lower numbers).

LED Dynamic Control - Standard (it would be a mistake to pay extra for this TV and not use this setting - it may not be P-E-R-F-E-C-T but it's better than leaving it off or Low) This is the Local Dimming control.

Auto Light Limiter - Off
Clear White - Off
Live Color - Off
Detail Enhancer - Off
Edge Enhancer - Off

Warmup time for 3D is about 45 minutes for new panels, decreases to 15 minutes as viewing time accumulates. Shutter glasses take 5 minutes or so when new but decreases to around 1 minute after they have been used for a while. Colder rooms may increase warmup times.

3D Settings
General - Custom
Backlight - Max - (no adjustment available in 3D mode) but varies greatly depending on what Scene Select Mode is being used.

Picture - try 87 to avoid color drift in highlights, but it may look too dark... use whatever setting makes the picture acceptably bright, knowing that the more you raise the setting above 87, the more color shift there will be. You may be forced to use Max and just have to live with the color shifts.

Brightness - 50
Color - 50
Hue - 0

Color Temp - Neutral (surprise! This was arrived at using an expensive meter with the shutter glasses over the lens of the meter and turned on... the glasses change color rather dramatically between being off and on so they MUST be on for measurements taken through them)

Sharpness - varies with different combinations of Scene Select and Mode, I recommend always using your own test/setup disc with Sharpness evaluation pattern to determine the best Sharpness setting since this TV seems a little unpredictable. Sometimes every setting from Min-55 looks the same (no sharpening applied, other times, the Min setting is required to get no sharpening.

Noise Reduction - (off, 3D Blu-ray doesn't need it)
MPEG Noise - (ditto)
Motionflow - Not Available in 3D mode
CineMotion - Not Available in 3D mode

Black Corrector - Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer - Off

Gamma - use 0 unless picture looks too dark. If you need more brightness in the midtones, try +1 or +2.

LED Dynamic Control - N/A
Auto Light Limiter - N/A
Clear White - Off
Live Color - Off
Detail Enhancer - Off
Edge Enhancer - Off

Always use a test/setup disc to determine the best settings for Brightness and Sharpness on your TV - the discs don't help all that much with Color/Tint settings though, due to the blue filters needed for those modes being perfectly accurate. TVs with a Blue-only mode can have the Color and Tint controls set quite accurately (usually).