New Onkyo TX-NR5008 & TX-NR3008 - Page 252

I believe the 70.2 equates to the xxx8 series..... the Integra xx.3 equates to the Onkyo xxx9s.

I have a 5009 so I hope this forum is ok to comment in. I have only just purchased and still have lots to learn about it. There are two setup items that are very disappointing for me.

The first is lack of zone 1 trigger. Not a new issue and has been discussed often. I likely would have purchased Integra 80.3 if I fully understood this issue before hand. I have a Harmony 900 so I tried the first work-around which was to "learn" the command to turn on zone 2. Maybe I misunderstood how that command worked but it appears that it creates a toggle command. This is not good because I can not guarantee that zone 2 is on or off. I did find a better workaround that I only mention in case others are not aware. When I added the 5009, the Harmony did not prompt that it supported zones - thus no discrete zone 2/3 commands. When a 1007 is added, I am prompted for different zones. This allows creation of discrete zone 2/3 on and off commands. When I use those in an activity, it ensures the zone has been correctly turned on or off.

I still think that this is a terrible solution. I hate the fact I have to turn on a separate zone simply to turn on fans and power amp. I think I will experiment with a smart strip.

This may be a very bad idea, but would it be possible to use the USB port on back as a trigger?

My second issue is also frustrating for me. One reason I changed from my previous proc (Anthem D2) was to get two HDMI outputs. Thrilled when I read they both output simultaneously. Very disappointed when I got home and found the OSD output was only HDMI 1. This is bad for me because I have a projector and TV hooked up. I want OSD for projector obviously. I would also like it for TV so that I can do setup, internet radio, net, etc without having to turn on projector. I am experimenting with ORemote to see if that helps me out.

It is disappointing to have to figure out workarounds for this "flagship" product. The workarounds are simple for me but makes it difficult for the rest of the family to use this product. Maybe I am missing something in my setup and someone can point me in right direction.

Thanks
Darryl

I believe kbarnes701 posted a perfect procedure a while back for programming a Harmony remote to turn on either the zone 2 or 3 trigger for an amp or cooling fan operation. Maybe he can direct you to that post.... It works perfect for my 3008 with my Harmony One.

Not sure why you are not seeing the on screen display for both HDMI outputs. Mine works fine and I also have a projector and a small monitor that I use for Network streaming and such. Are you trying to use both at the same time? What setting are you using for your HDMI out? Both, Main, Sub?
I believe I have my projector hooked to the Sub and my monitor to the Main, with the HDMI output set for both with Sub priority.

Deano86,
Thanks for the response. I did originally use Keiths procedure (post #5517). I just re-read it after you said it works perfectly for you. Do you have a 5009? I ask because I wonder if the remotes are different. I do not have a "Standby" button. I only have a "Reciever" button which is a power toggle. When learning the remote, there is only a toggle, not discrete commands for on and off. With the other approach (creating second zone reciever), I can create discrete commands to turn on and off thus it works much better. I am still unhappy as I want to use zone 2 for an actual second zone.

Your comments regarding seeing OSD through both HDMI outs may be because of different models or maybe I am lost (would not be first time). On page 94 of manual it states: "The on-screen menus appear only on a TV that is connected to HDMI OUT MAIN. If your TV is connected to other video outputs, use the the AV receivers display when changing settings."

At first I thought this meant that only "Setup" was affected, but it is all menus including volume. It would be great if I have a misunderstanding. I did try all the Monitor Out settings with no success. I can not believe this was designed this way.

Regards
Darryl

I use the oremote app all the time with my 5008 for this, specially the Internet radio feature. It works great, shows you the names of your pandora stations, the info of the song that is playing(title, artist, album, time) it makes it very simple to control practically everything on the receiver.

I see the message in the 5009 manual about the on screen menus only being output from HDMI Main... that does appear to be a design change I guess.
I am surprised that at least other on screen info doesn't show on both outputs, such as volume and and input changes though. You don't have your projector or TV set for a Zoom mode do you? That could obscure your info also....If it does not output OSD on both HDMI outputs, that truly is a weird design change....Bummer.

It must be a design change - a bad one. I was surprised that I had never read any posts about others complaining yet. Not sure if the 80.3 are the same, although I assume they would be.

You idea of the second "5009" is exactly what I poorly attempted to explain previously. The trick was that I had to add the "1007" (as second avr) in order to access the commands for discrete zones. Sounds like this was not an issue for owners of xxx8 and previous models. Another design change??? Issue is likely that Harmony database is not up-to-date with all the remote commands for zones. I still want to try a smart power strip as I think the workaround is silly and I want to use zone 2 for a different room.

Regards,
Darryl

I downloaded oremote onto a ipod but the device is too small for me to use. I will try on an Ipad. It does appear to be excellent app.

oh man... Just got my 5008. Hooked it up and get pops through all speakers. I can reproduce it every time. It happens on multi channel tracks no music though. This was plug in play where my 3008 was. Tried the factory reset. Any ideas? Amp bad?

Check out this post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post16549421
jcalabria made a great post there.
The original excel is included there as well as a handy text version and a sample letter to send to Logitech.
But please restrict the requests to commands that you really need.
Logitech Support has been very helpful with this but if people are sending in huge lists of commands, they might stop being nice and friendly...

You can set up the trigger on Zone 3 of course, which would leave Zone 2 free for your other room. The smart strip idea works too as you've said.

You don't actually turn Zone 2 'on' with this workaround because you can still have it set as inactive in the setup menu. IOW, there are no negative effects of doing it this way. It's a strange oversight on Onkyo's part to not have a trigger for Zone 1. I guess they figured that as it is an AVR people will be using Zone 1 via the internal amps. The 80.2/3 has proper triggers.

And so does the 5508 (three of them with configurable delays). Though the logic makes sense as the need is clearly there for triggering separate amps.

Great post - thanks for the link. The code(s) I initially crave the most are for changing subwoofer 1 and subwoofer 2 levels. There is only one subwoofer level control (line 34). Anyone know how it will work? Ideally for me, it would change both 1 & 2 in tandem with the one control. Alternatively, there is channel select and level up and down. This would be more cumbersome (though likely less so than using "Home" to navigate as I do now).

I need some help-I am trying (home audition thanks to nice retailer) an Integra DTR-20.3 and I am having problems driving my front mains with a separate amp. I was doing this before with my old AV receiver because my mains are power hungry and my separate amp is a good one-a McCormack DNA.5. The DTR-20.3 has three pre-outs, marked as Zone 2, subs, and surrounds. I tried Zone 2 but Audysey would not work. It also appears that volume of the mains stays fixed on Zone 2 and does not go up and down proportionate to the remaining speakers with adjustment of the main volume control. Is there a way to bi-amp the mains with the DTR-20.3? Is there a way to bi-amp and still use Audysey?

The DTR 20.3 doesn't have pre-outs for use with separate amplifiers for the 5.1 channels - it only has preouts for use with Zone 2 and 3 and surround backs (note - not surrounds). The latter is to allow you to use it as a 7.1 device with the addition of an external 2 channel amp. So you cannot drive a separate amp for your main speakers with this unit and I am surprised your dealer did not advise you correctly. Similarly, the DTR 20.3 has no capability to biamp the front speakers.

You need a more sophisticated unit than this one - I am not sure where in the Onkyo range they start to add preouts for the main channels - my old 705 had them so I assume the modern equivalent does too - but the best advice would be to check it out on the Onkyo website. You are looking for separate pre-amp outlets for Front Right, Centre, Front Left, Right Surround and Left Surround. Plus the subwoofer of course but they all have that. You can also check for bi-amp capability too. The site has manuals available for download and I'd suggest you download the manuals for the models you could be interested in and check them for what you need. A glance at the diagram of the rear of the unit will show the preouts, if they are available.

The good news is that you have the unit on loan and didn't actually buy it yet!

Anyone seen this before? To be more clear if I am streaming a Blu Ray multi channel track off my server I can easily hear the pops (strongest through rear channels). When playing music, its all good. Currently using PS3 for both. I'll have to test my other playback devices and am going to test in a bit. In addition to resetting Processor, I have checked firmware. All my cables are clearly marked and banana-ed in. If this matters when running audyssey before Sub calibration you immediately hear the pop before Sub engages. Not sure if it matters on that but I don't recall every hearing it before. Today I am grabbing a new power strip I am hoping will help possibly clean up the signal (tripplite). Is this possibly a ground loop? Maybe the few extra watts are triggering? I have 2 protectors, on and on them 2 subs, 1 5008, PS3, 2 360's, Samsung 59D6500, Samsung HDTV Box, D-Link Giga Switch. Is there a general best practice for what pieces should be on what power strip? Is it best to have everything on one strip?

This exact setup housed a 3008 for a year, I had a 4311ci hooked up and finally the 5008. Both the Onkyo and Denon were popless.

Placed a service call to Onkyo before 8am. Requested call back. 11:35 no call back.

Sorry to post again. Don't want to cry wolf without proper testing but need to ship it out if in fact it is bad. Thanks guys!!

You need a logical troubleshooting methodology. First off, I would do a factory reset (see below)and re-run Audyssey. Then remove everything from the system other than the Onkyo and the speakers. Turn up the volume on the Onkyo and listen for a while. If there are pops, they are coming from external sources, probably. I think this is not likely.

If you have the FM tuner working (i.e. with an antenna) then use that as the source and see if the pops are still there. If they are, you have a problem with the Onkyo. If they are not present proceed as below.

If not, then connect a known good source (using a known good cable) such as a DVD player and play a known good disc. If the pops are now present, then you definitely have a problem with the Onkyo. The trick now is to isolate it.

Connect the DVD player to each possible HDMI input in turn and see if the pops remain. If not, you have a problem with whichever source they appear on.

Connect an optical or digital cable, set the receiver accordingly, and then see if the pops are still there. If not, then you probably have an HDMI problem.

When you've done all that, if you are still sane , you should have a better idea of what is going on. It's possible the AVR is faulty but you mentioned that the pops were not present when you played music, which seems odd. What is different when you play music as opposed to a DVD? Are you using a different DSP for example, or running in stereo mode or not using the sub or what? There has to be a difference or you would hear the pops when playing music. Try to then use the DVD in the same settings as you used the CD and see what happens. Eventually, you will pin it down to something and know whether to send the unit back or not. Good luck.

RESET Onkyo to Factory

To reset the AV receiver to its factory defaults, turn it on and, while holding down the [VCR/DVR] button, press the [ON/STANDBY] button. "Clear" will appear on the display and the AV receiver will enter Standby mode.

EDIT: I just noticed that you are streaming HD content. Eliminate that for now - use a physically connected source such as a DVD player.

What does that mean? How do you mean 'before the sub engages'? You need to have the sub set to ON not some sort of Auto mode before you run Audyssey. Or do you mean that when the measurements are being taken, you hear a pop after Audyssey has done the last surround speaker and before it does the sub? If so, no, that should not happen and signifies a fault with the AVR.

So essentially the speakers would make a pop at the start of audyssey process. Its defective sadly. RMA process is under way!

I made the request via the support email. Attached a text file with 9 codes to add. After a day and a half, I received a reply that said my free support period (90 days) was over and I would have to go through "extended support". I called that number and was told $39 per support incident! When I said that I was disappointed as I was on my second Harmony and would likely buy a third when the time came and adding a few codes to make the remote work for me was really a small request that could have been filled in as much time than the original rep took in replying to my email, this rep apologized and said there were new people at that level of support and he must have been trained incorrectly. There should be no charge to do this. I was instructed to reply to the original email with the hex codes and they would take care of it.

So I've done that and am waiting.

Yeah - there's no charge for them adding Hex codes to your account! It usually takes them about 48 hours to do it.

I received a reply from harmony support. It's as if they didn't read my reply to their first email and just said the same thing again. I am now on hold as a rep in the paid support dept is reading the incident report chain.

Real time update! Stand by

Weird. I wonder if the reports are initially machine-read and a standard answer generated? I've never had a problem with Logitech - just run the software, go to the bit where you can generate an e-message to them and make the request. 48 hours later I get an email saying 'your codes have been added' and that's it. I've never paid for any sort of support from them - they just add the codes as part of the service. I've done this a few times without any problems.

Just got off the phone with the rep. She was adamant that the policy is to charge $39 to add codes. I complained - told her I was already told it would be done without charge - suggested they program the capability for users to add codes themselves (which fell on deaf ears) - all to no avail. They are reviewing the codes I sent in "Level 2 support" and will let me know if they are valid. If so, I can authorize them to add them after paying for it.

Next step is to find where to write a letter.

This gets weirder and weirder. I had some codes added to my 5509 only last week and of course I didn't pay anything. Let me find the response from them... here we go:

Dear Keith,

Greetings!

Thank you for contacting Logitech Customer Care about your incident #111124-
Please keep this number in case you need to reference to it in future emails.

I understand that you wish to add Hex codes using your Harmony 1100.I will gladly assist you. My name is Lyn from technical support team.

Keith,the commands are added on your account.kindly update the Harmony 1100 for the changes to take effect. After the update, test the Harmony remote.

I hope you found these helpful.




And an earlier response from them for the same thing on my Onkyo 5007, in a slightly different format where they mention Tier 2 support:


Dear Keith,

Thank you for contacting Logitech Customer Care about your Harmony Remote

The HEX codes you provided have been added to the Onkyo TX-NR5007 in your account. Please update your remote and test it out.

We hope you have found this helpful. If you have any further questions please feel free to reply to this email and we will get back to you shortly. Thank you once again for contacting Logitech Customer Care.
Regards,

Logitech Customer Care

Response (Johnnel) 06/15/2011 12:00 AM
Dear Keith,

Thank you for contacting Logitech Customer Care about your incident 110615-

I understand that you want to add some Hex codes into your account. Let's see what I can do for you.

Keith, in order for us to properly assist you, we would need to escalate your case to our Tier 2 department for they are the only ones capable of adding those Hex codes into your account. Kindly allow 2 to 3 business days before they contact you.

If you have any further questions please feel free to reply to this email and we will get back to you shortly.

Thank you once again for contacting Logitech Customer Care.

Regards,

Johnnel
Logitech Customer Care

Keith,

Thanks for the reminder. I had turned zone 2 off in the setup (under speaker configuration), but did not consider that when turning zone 2 on with remote. If I understand you correctly, then if zone 2 is turned off in setup, turning zone 2 on with remote is only activating the trigger. None of the zone 2 amps or internal processing is turned on. This does improve the option significantly.

I hope Santa brings you a 5009 for Christmas so you can start a new owners thread. Nothing wrong with this one but its nice when the local expert starts the thread and is able to keep FAQ up to date.

Thanks for your help and have a happy holiday.

He already went one step further and got a 5509.

Yes I noticed after I submitted my reply. Unfortunately I could not get a 5509 in Canada and I thought the 5009 was extra over the 5509. I assumed the two are identical with the 5009 including internal amplification. I was hoping to use the internal amps to drive the extra (front height and/or rear) speakers if I ever choose to use them.

The Integra 80.3 was additional cost over the 5009.

Still hopefully that will allow Keith to start a new Owners Thread for the 5509.

Keith, Thanks for the info. I'm writing a letter to:

Ehtisham Rabbani
Senior Vice President, Customer Experience & Chief Marketing Officer
Logitech
6505 Kaiser Dr
Fremont, CA 94555-3614

I googled a bit and it is looking like they have recently changed their policy. It may be early enough that some volume of complaints could get them to rethink.

Meanwhile, I also found this:
http://www.avforums.com/forums/remot...ny-remote.html

Supposedly can add hex codes ourselves. I'll try it later today and see if I can bypass Logitech altogether. I'm not much wanting to deal with them anymore!

Edit: It occurs to me that this may be considered off topic. But it is about getting Onkyo codes into the remote so hopefully ok.