New Onkyo TX-NR5008 & TX-NR3008 - Page 279

More speakers and higher SPLs are a good recipie for pushing a receiver into protect mode, but the middleman is usually excess heat.

How is the cooling around the receiver and how hot does the case get right after it trips out?

Using the 4 ohm setting on the receiver serves no purpose other than severely limiting the output power of the receiver for the sole purpose of a UL testing parameter. Use the regular 6 ohm menu setting for your speakers run them at the volume you need... if your receiver continues to go into protect mode at the higher volumes, then they are presenting much too high of a load and you either need a separate 4 ohm capable amp or your speakers are defective in some way....

I agree. I have a 7.1 setup comprising of of Kef Reference Model 2 Fronts, Kef Reference 200c Centre and 4 Kef TDM34DS all of which are 4Ohm using the 6Ohm setting just for the reasons you mention. Admittedly I don't run them at Reference volume levels, but they can rock the house without the 5008 getting any hotter than the normal HDMI board impersonation of an oven at the rear !
If using at high volumes regularly and protect mode coming into force I would seriously consider other speakers though........

I have a 3008 which has had no problems in the 2.5 years I have owned .I use a fan on the top and use full through to my Pioneer Plasma so I do not use the video and also use out board Emotiva XPA-2 and XPA-5.The heat is still coming from the inside but the fan and temp control work great to reduce most of heat.I want to buy the ONKYO-5509 Processor but am a little optomistic because of the board failures in the 08 series.Please does any one know if a heat problem is in the 09 series or should I go another route?I have been waiting for the Emotiva XMC-1 but looks like it is being held up again as they just had a Podcast with NO INFO about the XMC-1 release .The most people beleive they are having many problems with TACT system for 7 ch and it will be a long time issue.I love the feautures with the 5509 so please if any one has any info please let me know.

I have noticed several posts about HDMI board issues with multiple Onkyo receivers. I just had the same experience with a 5008 that I purchased just under 2 years ago. I thought I would share 1) my terrible experience with Onkyo's incompetent support, and 2) how I fixed it.

The HDMI board failure has been described in many postings as a loss of audio, network connectivity, and USB. This is exactly what happened to my 5008. I tried a reset, updating firmware (which failed), and verifying speaker connections. Nothing resolved the problem.

I then called Onkyo fairly certain the problem was related to the well known design flaw with the HDMI board. The representative said that the HDMI problem only exists in other models (for which there was a service campaign) and not with the 5008. Very hard to believe given the number of failures I have noticed while browsing for this issue.

I was further shocked to find out that my unit would not be repaired under warranty. Onkyo claimed that since I had moved to a different country from the country in which the unit was purchased, my warranty was void. I could understand if the power supply used for the amp was different, but it's been fed the same 60hz 220V while in both locations. Who knew that the electronics inside the Onkyo were so nationalistic.

I then asked how I can get the unit repaired at my own cost. I was then told by the 2nd level tech that it was not possible to repair this unit in the US and that it would have to be shipped back to Asia for repair since the boards are different. I made it really clear that I only wanted to have the HDMI board replaced. (Which contains many of the DSP's, Reon processor, etc). I had already downloaded a service manual and from the part numbers, it looked like the exact same board regardless of region. The technician tried convincing me that the HDMI board is different for the different voltage sources. Too bad that the schematics show all of the region variants feeding this board with the same voltage levels; yet he would could only sputter the same dumb story line. I was again told that it was "impossible" for the US service centers to order these parts and was told it could not be fixed. I was now left with very expensive black brick.

At this point, I thought I would give the DIY approach a shot. I found a used HDMI board on Ebay for a US Onkyo 5008 for ~$125. I just finished installing the board (the one that Onkyo says would not work and they refused to order), and it worked!! It solved the problem and my audio, USB, and network ports are now working again!! It turns out as expected that it was the EXACT same board. I am happily now using my 5008 again.

For those that need to attempt this same repair, read the tutorials online about releasing the connectors on the board. The grey and block power ribbon cables do not pull up with a connector, you push down on the top of the connector and then pull the wires out. The rest of the connectors are fairly easy to disconnect/re-connect.

So in the end I am happy my 5008 is working again. (And I am planning on going overboard on cooling the unit). Yet, I am very unhappy with Onkyo's terrible warranty & repair support. Especially for a problem they know they have with these units. It's a shame such a great product has such short-sighted leadership in it's after sales support.

My recommendation.. enjoy your 5008 if you have one (and keep it cool), but at least for me, this is the end of my Onkyo purchases.

hi, tried looking on ebay. can you contact seller if they can get more.? an that power cable to it...mine broke... OR IF ANY ONE KNOW WHERE AND HOW...

here 2 sellers that can fix a board or sell you one
they get a 5008 board every so often
http://www.ebay.com/sch/audiovideo410/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=25&_trksid=p3984.m1543.l2654


&


http://stores.ebay.com/davelectronics56?_rdc=1

so far one messaged back:
I'm sorry, I don't repair this model.
Thanks,

- audiovideo410

UPDATE:

Just failed at 22 months. The speaker outs, pre-outs, and headphone out are dead. It's now at a nearby local service center and I'll hopefully have it back in a month or so.

As far as authorized repair places, I was directed to Pro-Tec Electronics. 3879 State Road, Cuyahoga Falls, Oh, 44223. 330-923-3191. I don't know if they will get parts or not for otc sales.

John

I've had my TX-NR5008 since 7/11, just now started experiencing the sound loss issue. I do have an AV fan drawing heat from the top of the receiver, thought I'd be able to avoid this issue, but bad luck has struck. I purchased off of eBay, from seller premier*electronics. Waiting to hear back from them: anyone else deal with this seller for this issue?

It took 25 months for my 5008 to experience the lost audio / Internet connection problem. So far repeated power cycles have managed to restore it. But I guess it's only a matter of time now. Really disappointed with Onkyo - never again.

The good news is that they should fix it even out of warranty. Hopefully you have an authorized service center locally so that you do not have to pack and ship it out. I have the issue again with my 3007. I just leave it on all the time now so I don't get any surprises. I am waiting to replace it with an upgraded version and then I will get it fixed. Luckily for me I have an excellent local repair center.

Please keep us posted as to what happens.

Well, I heard back from the seller, they instructed me to ship the receiver to their Georgia location, and they in turn have to ship to New York for repair, with at least a 2-month turnaround. Does this seem normal? I see 2 authorized repair centers listed for the state of Georgia on the Onkyo website (?). Thanks all.
Edited by theabs - 1/6/13 at 9:09am

I got my TX-NR3008 back today and it seems to be working fine. The shop stated that they fixed some solder problems on the HDMI board. That was from the shop owner, not the tech... so sounds like the well-known HDMI board issue experienced by many others in this thread. All of my settings are still intact, so I don't even need to re-run the system calibration (but may do so anyway).

I'm looking for 12V trigger help.

I am only after the Zone 2's trigger output so that I can trigger an external amp for Zone 1.

From my understanding, if Zone 2 is "on" (green light active on receiver face), then the corresponding 12V trigger should also be on. However, I get nothing out of it.

I've tried testing it with a meter and two different Radio Shack 1/8 mono cables.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

you have to use the face plate settings knob (wheel thingy ) to turn the zone 2 to active . You can't do it with the remote

that how I start my external amps

I'm not sure what you mean. The dial pad (4 arrows with an enter in the middle) does nothing.

What I do is select the Zone 2 button, and the LCD reads "OFF". At that point I either select an input (say TUNER) and it turns on, or I press the Zone 2 button again, and it selects "SOURCE" and also turns on.

Are you referring to making the amplification on the rear act (where it takes a pair of the surrounds and turns them into amplified Zone 2 outputs) when you say "active"?

Do you know the name of the repair center in NY they are sending it to ?

My 3008 failed last DEC (I posted here) and warranty ends Jan 22nd but I wasn't able to bring it in for
repair due to major shoulder surgery .

Anyway..Knowing I wouldn't be able to take it in for repair myself because it's too heavy to lift right after surgery I covered myself
and bought an extended warranty.

I will be able to drive and bring in it sometime next week with help .


Do you know which repair center in NY they are sending it to being I also live in NY.

I called a few repair places last month when my 3008 failed but didn't get a good vibe over the phone when speaking to them so I'm still
looking for a good NY repair center.

Thanks

PS: I just about had it with the TV speakers and my shoulder !

No i'm talking using the zone 2 as a trigger for a 12 volt trigger start system to start a amp with a 12 volt trigger

been awhile since I set mine , but you have to hold one button down(displayIIRC ) then toggle (the wheel )till you see zone 2 & select turn on IIRC & that lets the 12 volt trigger be used to to turn on the amps . then U use the remote get a green zone light & the hit on , to turn the AVR on you then select receiver & hit on agin . there is instructions on how to do this in the manual but it in a very odd location that makes it hard to find . I just too lazy to reset mine to remember on how to do it . L O L
there is detailed instruction on this in this thread more than once even the page # of the manual

Tried the above. "Display" just gives me a readout of the display in->out. The dial pad has no function in that mode.

My issue isn't getting Zone 2 on, as I am able to do that (at least the receiver shows it on). To do that, you press Zone 2, then the input you want, and it is on. Works with the remote as well.
For some reason, the triggers don't turn on with it.

I have looked through this thread a fair bit and found no one with a similar problem. Is it broken? Or am I missing something?

tomorrow I'll sit down & write out the procedure , I describing it wrong to you , It's simple but not obvious but it has to do with the wheel & the 2 button next to wheel & how the sequence is done. Srry I've got flu &my brain is quite fuzzy right now

Just curious, but do you have Zone 2 AND Zone 3? If you do, have you tested both the Zone 2 AND Zone 3 outputs? The 5008 has both. To turn the triggers on on my 5008, all I have to do is hit the 'ZONE' button (top row, 3rd from the left), followed by the 'ON' button (top left). If you have Zone 2 and 3, then clicking the 'ZONE' button once will turn it Green for one zone, clicking the 'ZONE' button again within a few seconds will turn it Red for the other zone (don't recall which color corresponds to which Zone). The last Zone is memorized in the remote, i.e. if you last had it in the Red zone, the next time you push the 'ZONE' button, it will be for the Red zone.

You HAVE to push the 'ZONE' button followed by the 'ON' button while the ZONE' button is still lit though.


Max

Yes, I have tried both, and yes, following the process using the remote, I get the same result.

Tomorrow I will try actually hooking up Zone 2 to some speakers to confirm it is working, but the triggers are not.

I'm fairly convinced that there is either some option I am missing that enables or disables the triggers, or my trigger output is broken.

If you are not measuring 12V with a meter at the end of your trigger cable and your Zone 2 led is green, then no it is not working.... providing you are measuring it correctly (DC voltage scale). Also what kind of external amp are you trying to trigger? What happens when you try Zone 3 trigger?

I think I have confirmed that it is not working properly. I ran Zone 2 through speakers and they do work fine, so Zone 2 is indeed turning on, but the triggers are not powered. Does anyone know if there is a fuse for this? Everything else on the receiver works properly. Any chance a full reset could fix it?

No, they did not specify which New York location. I contacted Onkyo directly, they allowed me to ship to an Illinois location, much closer to Wisconsin, so I'm happy. Good luck with your shoulder.

theater_lover


press zone 3 button on the face of the AVR till it flashes source (the small display screen on the face of AVR ) then press the zone button on the remote till it's stays green (press twice within 8 seconds ) if it changes color you doing it wrong & then turn on the amp with the start button on the remote make sure you have the 12 volt trigger cables in the proper places
You do have a single mono wire mini jack at both ends trigger cable between the AVR & the amp right ?
you have to turn off / on the amp this way each time OR you have to do the setup all over agin if you don't .
so each time you want to start the AVR you must start the amps 1st push zone 3 (green light) the hit start , to turn off hit zone 3 (green light again) then press off , then press receiver & off that urns off AVR
it's a two step process each time you turn the AVR & the amps off OR on

By "start" do you mean "on"?

If I follow what you wrote above, and use "on" where you say "start" (there is no start button anywhere), the following happens:

Pressing Zone 3 twice on the AVR's face, gives me "source". At this point, the Zone 3 light on the AVR's face turns on (Zone 3 is on).
Now, Pressing Zone twice on the remote turns the zone button green.
I press "on" (instead of start) and the Zone 3 light on the AVR face turns off then on (a quick blink, like it is registering an input).
Nothing happens with the trigger.
If I press the standby key on the remote, when Zone 3 is illuminated, Zone 3 turns off (as it should).

That is all I get.

Everything seems to work as it should when I follow the manual's instructions. Just no juice from the trigger.

I did notice that on the remote it does have a blue line around MODE, TV, and RECEIVER that reads AMP, but I am unsure how to use it/what it is for.

try this Turn the AVR on & turn the amps on manually
press the face plate button for Zone 3 get "source" to stay on & then press the off button right next to the zone 3 button ( Not the Standby ) if the amp turns off then it works & then it's just figuring how to get the remote right after that .

& yes by start i mean "on" top button on the left side of remote