AVS Official Mitsubishi 3DC-1000 3D Starter Pack Topic! - Page 94

I have the Mits 65738 (12.08) and just got in the Optoma ZD101's and was wondering if there is anything I need to know before I try them. I read that they sync in reverse but don't know what that means. Do I need to make a setting change on the TV?

Reverse setting is in the 3D menu.

I have a Mitsubishi 65638 so I have to use a 3d adapter. I hate black crush so I am purchasing a new receiver with two hdmi outputs

The two receivers I am considering are a Denon 3311 or a Yamaha 867. I have heard that the Denon 3311 works with the 3D adapter but my question is does the yamaha 867 work with the 3G adapter?

I have the Mits 73837 paired with the Yamaha 867. One of the HDMI outputs from the Yamaha is connected directly to the 3D adapter. 3D blu ray from the PS3 works great. However, I have not been able to view 3D content from Directv, receive an error message that the D* receiver is not connected to a 3D TV.

Thanks.

I have read somewhere that people with the yamaha 667 had a firmware update that fixed their problem with directv 3d.

Have u heard anything like that?

I updated the firmware of the 867, v2.15 I believe. That added Pandora Radio, which is great, but did not fix the Directv problem.

I have a 73833. I never installed the firmware update, but have no problem with 3D from DirectTV. But I do have a problem that the TV persists in renaming the input 'DVD' instead of 'game', when I try to watch a 3D dvd. (The device is a Samsung, but I believe the problem is at the TV level.) I noticed a couple of users had this problem. Did anyone solve it?

I went ahead and purchased the yamaha 867 and updated the software as soon as I got it. I have great news for people with a Mits 65638 (have to use 3d adapter). My directv 3d works perfectly with the Yamaha 867 receiver. I am able to use both the hdmi outputs and send 2d content to one hdmi input on my tv and 3d content to the other hdmi input and it works flawlessly. Furthermore, the setiing on the hdmi input with 2d has 3d off and the hdmi input with 3d on it has 3d turned on. It is perfect.

I just wanted everyone to know that this receiver is perfect for people that cannot stand black crush (caused by 3d adapter) and want their 3d on a separate input than their 2d content.

I have a 82738 with the new firmware so only using the IR emitter from the kit now. Was happy to bypass the box. No problems and hadn't watched 3d in a few months and last night went to try to watch a 3d disc and 3d direct and the glasses wouldn't appear to synch. The red light is lit on the emitter and no problems with the 3d video being displayed on the tv but I couldn't get not 1 of 4 glasses to synch. They all turn and off so I know not a battery issue. I unplugged and plugged the emitter multiple times, tried to switch from ir to dlp link and back to see if that helped but did nothing. Any suggestions? All I could guess is maybe emitter is lit up but maybe bad now for some reason??

Thanks!

Do I understand correctly that you have the the new firmware installed for your 738 and that you have the IR emitter from the kit installed and connected directly from the TV and enabled in the TV? Also you have 4 sets of IR glasses from the kit but only one set of them works? And you have the DLP-Link disabled on the 728 and you have no DLP-link glases?

Walford sorry what I meant was I couldn't get any of the glasses to work. Yes to everything else. Everything worked fine at first after the firmware update. Prob watched about 5 movies with no problems but then didn't watch anything in 3d for 3-4 months now none of the glasses will synch. Emitter light is on all the time and when go to 3d channel or BR the tv is showing the source in 3d but it is like the glasses aren't synching even though emitter is lit up and glasses are all on.

Thanks for the help.

So without the glasses on the 3D image is blurred and when you put on the glasses does the blurring go away but you get no depth or does the image stay blurred?
Did you try changing or recharging the battery in one of the glasses to insure that it was fully charged. Some NI-MH batteries can loose about 3% of their charge a day.

Correct image stays blurred. The glasses are turning on and off at least the power button lights up according. I didn't change any of the batteries since it looked like they were all powering on and off ok and 2 of the glasses had only been used once and none of the 4 are rechargeable.

I will get a new battery and swap out just to rule out battery related.

Ok. Well here is the problem and boy it was an easy fix. Tried new battery no luck so looked at settings again and switched glasses to reverse and all is well. I don't recall ever changing them before to that originally. But works all now for directv and BR. Don't know why didn't try that before.

Thanks for the help walford.

I have a Mitsibishi 833, The 3d Starter Kit, and the new Panny 310. I can not get the 3d to work, because the TV automatically recognizes the 310 as a DVD player, and will not let me switch it over to game mode. I use to run the 3d thru the Ps3 which worked fine except I had to run the audio thru my Tv. How do i get the TV to let me change the input mode to game?

I had the same problem with my 73833 and panny. I had to change a setting in the panny not to automatically pass the input. I forget the setting though. I'll have to wait until I get home to know.

The 3D adapter does not "cause" black crush. The black crush is caused by a mismatch of colorspace settings between devices. The adapter requires Video level (16 to 235) colorspace. If you send it PC levels (0 to 255), which are mapped differently, you'll get black crush. It's like trying to put diesel fuel into a gasoline engine, or gasoline into a diesel engine. It just won't work.

Using separate inputs for 3D only half solves the problem, as you will still see black crush on your 3D input. 3D is dark enough without dealing with that. The only way around this is to change the colorspace settings in the source device, in which case you wouldn't need the second input anyway.

The Sony PS3 has the capability to output either Video or PC level video signals to the adapter, and is adjustable in the menus. Unfortunately, it seems not all source devices are created equally. Last year, there was a problem with some DirectTV satellite boxes that could only send PC levels and evidently this has still not been solved.

Blame the Sat box, not the adapter.

Can you tell me which is the proper setting in the PS3, please?

Hmmmm...I thought the black crush was caused by the DLP white flash on MIT DLPs that can't turn off DLP in 3D mode. Also, I thought the whole "bypassing the adapter" was to be able to have multiple 3D/non 3D sources and not have to swap cables and change 3D menu settings to avoid the DLP White flash when switching to a non-3D source (thus, "bypassing" the adapter").

The black crush is not caused by the white flash, that results in a washed out image with little contrast until you put on the DLP link glasses.

Go to "Setup" on your Panny, then "TV/Device Connection" and then set "VIERA Link" to "Off" and see if that fixes the problem.

Check both of the following.

Settings> Video Settings> BD/DVD Video Output Format (HDMI)> RGB

Settings> Display Settings> RGB Full Range (HDMI)> Limited

You can run a test pattern before and after to see the difference. Pretty much any THX disc will have a test pattern with 7 shades of black. If you are set up wrong, the 3 darkest bars to the left will all appear as one shade of black (black crush).

No, JOHNnDENVER is correct, black crush is a different problem than the white flash.

It's like stating the temperature, but not stating Fahrenheit or Celsius. The adapter is looking for one scale, and you're sending it information in another scale.

Simply stated, black crush is when the TV thinks the 0-15 of the PC level is black. It is looking for 16-235, with 16 being black. In PC video (0-255), zero is black and 16 is just a shade of grey, but the adapter is expecting the 16-235 range, so it tries to map everything under 16 to black. This results in all the shades of grey from 1-15 being shown as black.

Because of this, several of the darkest bars in a test pattern will appear to be one shade of black, and you will lose several layers of detail in your content.

Bypassing the adapter in order to avoid having to change the 3D settings in the TV or swap cables is okay I guess, but the OP stated he was doing so to avoid the black crush on 2D. As stated, if the source is set up correctly, black crush is not even an issue. Also, I personally don't find changing the 3D settings in the TV to be such a chore when switching between 2D and 3D.

OK, I stand corrected. Thanks for the explanation!

Is there some reason that it should be set to "Limited", rather than "Full"?

Hello everyone

I have the following equipment:

WD-65638
Panasonic DMP-BDT210
3DC-1000 starter kit

I have everything connected and working. I do think I may have the "black crush" that I am reading about when passing the signal through the adapter and I am looking for a way around that.

Questions:

1. Can I bypass the adapter and connect the blu-ray player directly to the TV and only use the emitter? I believe the Panasonic is capable of producing checkerboard output.

2. How do I make the red light on top of the emitter turn off? As long as the power on the adapter is on, the red light is on. If the power on the adapter is not on, I do not have a signal on the TV.

Limited and Full is just what Sony calls Video and PC. Limited is the 16-235 range, while Full (PC) is the 0-255 range. Noobs think they might be missing something because it says "Limited", but Full doesn't give you "more", as the zero in Full is the equivalent of 16 in the Limited range. Think of 32 degrees Fahrenheit vs 0 degrees Celsius. They both are the freezing point of water. It's just a different scale, and they had to call it something.

Once you set it to Limited, games will display correctly, but RGB may be bypassed for DVDs and Blu-rays if the Video Output Format (HDMI) setting is set to Auto or Y Pb/Cb Pr/Cr, so you also must set that to RGB.

Again, screen up any test pattern with black bars similar to this.




Any THX DVD should have a similar pattern with seven black bars.

If you can't adjust the brightness control to get separate shades of black for all of the bars, you're getting black crush. Switch to the settings I gave you and try again. The difference should be quite obvious.

EDIT: Once you have adjustability, follow the directions on the disc, or turn down the brightness until the two darkest bars blend into one shade, then turn up the brightness and stop just when you can see them as separate shades again.

I recommend adjusting brightness with a test pattern as shown previously, to determine if you have black crush. If several of the bars blend into one shade of black and you cannot adjust for it with the brightness control, you have black crush.



If the Panasonic outputs Checkerboard, you do not need the adapter in the loop. Plug the emitter into the emitter jack on the TV.
I don't use an emitter in my setup, but I don't think it turns off unless the power is turned off. I've read that some people cover it with tape.

Thank you for your detailed explanation.

I have the A91 Laservue I'm evaluating so being a 2010 model I have a DLPLink vs Emitter menu choice, which opens up all kinds of options. I can go Pany blu-ray , Mits converter system with either emitter or DLP link glasses. Even the glasses have several options each brand-wise (esp the Link type) and varying degrees of color shift, flickering, and synching issues.

I would definitely prefer to go with my existing PS3--so I can dabble with some games--but my Denon 4308 AVR is "only" 1.3 and won't be upgraded anytime soon just for 3D. I won't run direct to TV cause I will lose lossless audio--so that's out. I may get a quality monoprice splitter to solve that portion, but there's so many variables. I believe the Mits 3D adapter will work with a 1.3 receiver in Checkerboard mode (PS3->AVR->Adapter->TV), but I don't know that for sure. I'm pretty sure the Pany signal will pass though the AVR if I go that route with DLP link glasses.

Another consideration is that due to custom cabinet I also look up slightly (see attached pic showing 38" start height and great-test bw/color Persopolis movie) so might that effect either DLP link or emitter glasses? Then there's the Mits 3D kit I'm trying to get from the retailer but 1/2 is not needed if go DLP link. Talk about confusing--I wish I could try all the options and see what works best. I don't know where to start---maybe with the Pany player that can almost re-coop its cost by selling Avatar...(edit: Have ordered it now). Someone must have similar to my setup--which way works for you?

have my Open Season blu-ray ready to roll which should look fabulous on the 75" screen if I can figure out this 3D mess

Thanks in advance for any assistance.