Originally Posted by Tom the Piddler
Let me have a little input here.
I really do not understand your blooming or off angle viewing problem. If it is as severe as your post indicates, and your seeing the backlight zones, I think you have a bad set. Call Amazon and have an exchange set up.
We have 2 553's, also our first flat panels, since 8/3, and have not experienced any of the above. I can view the set at 170 degrees, hort or vert, with little (no noticeable) degradation of the picture. Also, there has been hardly any mention in this thread of the problems you have, and if there was, the set was exchanged.
Yeah, the slow channel changing is a pain. But as someone pointed out, hitting the OK button solves this, for the moment. Did you know that you can put in the number 999.999999? I think the pause is waiting to see if your through putting in numbers. The OK button says you have. Being an engineer, you can understand this better than me. (and what is PMW?)
But let me inform you that we have only OTA and a MAG 515 HDDR/DVR. I do not think this disqualifies me from making the suggestion you exchange your set.
ps: will post our settings in a new post
Thanks for your feedback. As we're seeing, other people are beginning to complain about the same things I have. Maybe my situation is just amplified because I watch movies in a very dark room (no outside lights whatsoever, no room lights -- the only light is from the TV or the electronics gear in the TV stand below). Thus, any blooming is going to be seen. Could you please explain your room environment? If possible, check the image quality after getting the room as dark as possible.
Last night I got a new Blu-Ray player and tried out "Doom" again. No significant improvements in blooming. Again -- around peoples faces in dark scenes there was a cloud effect, almost as though I was watching the TV through a lightly fogged piece of glass. I turned the backlight down to 0 (yes - zero) and still had blooming. I turned the brightness and then the contrast down to 0 and could still see elements of blooming. Now, I would assume that when you turn these 3 settings down to 0, I should have NO picture. Can you try an experiment and turn these items down to 0 and report back whether you still have an image?
Since you and others don't seem to have issues, my thinking is this: My set may not have it's settings controlling the picture properly. If you can blank the image by setting the backlight to 0 and/or the brightness to 0, but I can't that indicates that my set has a problem.
Regarding the off angle: When I go side to side or up/down, the background becomes noticeably gray -- more so at greater angles. This is with the CNET settings (and I tried yours, too) with no video input to the TV, i.e., a completely black image. It's not like it's a completely washed out gray, but it's quite visible. The CNET comment about poor off angle, IMHO, is spot on.
I will see if I can make a YouTube video of this stuff, but I doubt it will show up good enough in a dark room.
Channel changing: Yeah, I started to press the 'OK' button, but the time from pressing OK to an actual image is about 1 second. Still pretty slow. I was originally referring to pressing the channel up/down buttons. From the time of pressing the button to a new channel image showing up, it takes about 2+ seconds. That compares to maybe 0.25 seconds for my old CRT TVs. I just expected better from newer technology. I guess this is Vizio's evil plot to deprogram us all away from years of channel surfing???
PWM: This stands for 'pulse width modulation'. It's an easy way to control the brightness of an LED or the speed of a motor or whatever. Basically, one sends a series of pulses (full on or full off) to a device at a set frequency. For example, let's say the PWM frequency is 100 Hz, so each pulse can be a maximum of 0.01 seconds. The width of the ON pulse to the OFF time is the duty cycle. So a 100% duty cycle means the ON is on 100% of the time. A 50% duty cycle in our example means that it would be on for 0.005 seconds, then off for 0.005 seconds, then back on for 0.005 seconds and so forth. 25% duty cycle would be on 0.0025 seconds, off for 0.0075 seconds, on 0.0025 seconds, etc. Given a high enough PWM frequency, our eyes just average out these pulses, and we see varying brightness levels rather than flickering.
Anyway, please let us know what you find out. Thanks for your help!