Samsung 3D Glasses Losing Sync? - Page 6

Well its official, Im getting the set replaced with the 2011 PN51D7000 .
I even asked if they can help me out with regards to the 3D glasses and they asked me to call back in mid April when they are released so that they can possible replace them for me. I cant wait to see this new set and try the 3D. GOODBYE IR 3D TECH !!!! IM GOING RF VIA BLUETOOTH BABY !

Wow thats tight! I'm curious to see what you think. So you went right through samsung directly? I just purchased the 4 year protection from best buy in case the blink issue doesn't get resolved. I've heard it can be a b***h having to deal wit samsung but sounds like you have had luck...

Yeah I was afraid they would just keep repairing the TV till I gave up but that wasnt the case. Anyways I asked if perhaps I can pay something and upgrade to the 59" and they said it was not possible because they were not in production, but Im gonna actually call tomorrow and see if they just let me put down some extra for the 8000. If they do it for like 300-400 bucks I will jump all over it.

In my quasi-professional opinion I think the primary reason for a switch from IR to RF (radio frequency) is the retail store environment. Fluorescent lights at a retail demo are a killer -- if the demo is having problems it might not only talk a buyer out of 3D but they may also choose a competitive brand.

I believe that most users won't be as aware of ghosting or crosstalk as the typical AVS poster. Theoretically I don't see why RF allow for more precise syncing than IR -- I'd love to hear an explanation, however, from someone who knows better.

Frankly I doubt RF/Bluetooth has any advantage. I think it's more of a PR issue and that Samsung can integrate Bluetooth just as easily and inexpensively as they could IR.

Folks,

This is indeed crazy stuff, but believe it or not, the 3D glasses you think are bad are actually work fine with other Samsung LCD 3D TV. Big a$$ plasma 3D TV are not so lucky though.

Samsung created quite a mess with 3D glasses as they went through multiple versions, quietly. I could count 3 versions of glasses (PN63C8000 @ 5.5' distance):

1. ...GZA... - Had 4 pairs: 2 recent ones losing sync very often and very unstable, 2 older ones are really nasty - losing sync, double vision, color bleeding. All 4 are working perfectly with LCD 3D TV. I exchanged them to GZB and GB series.
2. ...GZB... - very stable, never loose sync (most recent 3D kits - Amz).
3. ...GB... - very stable, never loose sync (most recent 3D kits - BB).

if you have any issue with GZB of GB - exchange it, as it is defective.

Good news - Samsung finally got it right at the end, but they are in a such mess that they decided to abandon IR and move to BT in effort to clear this cover-up.

How you gonna exchange/replace it? Be creative! Just remember, Samsung let you down. It does not matter where or when you got you "bad" ones as long as they are not damaged and in working order:
1. First, find retailer with good return policy and item (GZB or GB serials) on hand. Purchase the kit at whatever the price is.
2. Come home and unpack it.
3. Put new ones next to old ones. Do you see any difference? Of course not, because of Samsung cover-up of the issue
4. Grab your old ones, put them back to the package and return it back along with everything you want to say about how bad these glasses and Samsung are...
5 Enjoy your Samsung Plasma 3D TV, the way it supposed to be from the day one.


Good luck!

I tried to do an exchange on my glasses but after about 45min on website see no such option for glasses, the furthest I get is "sorry...No service policy & warranty info for SSG-P2100S" ...I just got them a few months ago

Hello, I can not get my samsung 2100 glasses which came with the shrek starter kit to actvate with my samsung pn63c7000. The light on the glasses is working and the screen is in 3D mode but the glasses do nothing. The tv was a floor model and may need a firmware update. Would that help? Could it be my cables? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like your IR emitter is not working, you can check it with a cell phone camera. You should see it flashing with the camera with the 3D on, it is on the lower left corner of the TV. Good luck.
Laz

The three IR lights are a solid red(not blinking) and I can see them clearly even without the camera. I tried it with 2-3D as well as with ps3 3D movies and comcast ON Demand 3D sources and none work. Is it time to call for sevice or will a reset of the unit help? The tv was a floor model and has been running since october. Would a firmware update solve the problem? Thanks

I would take the glasses to the store and see if they work with another TV. If they do them your TV most likely needs repair. I don't think a firmware upgrade will help it. I think you could reset the TV by holding down EXIT on the remote for 15 seconds. Good luck.

Laz

In light of the fact that Samsung has moved to BlueTooth for their 2011 3D glasses I decided to pick up another one of their 2010 3D kits to make sure I have a few extra first party glasses lying around. The Shrek package with 2 glasses, three movies and a voucher for Shrek 4 was on sale on Amazon for around $260 and I decided to order one set.

I was wondering what other peoples' experiences were with the glasses from this set with regard to picture quality and loss of sync.

As much as I would like to think it is the glasses that are the problem I am leaning more towards the actual emitter on the tv being insufficient

In my case, it was definitely the 1st generation Samsung glasses. I can verify this because I watched the same scene (the tunnel of light sequence from an Avatar clip I had) that regularly trips up the Samsungs with both my original Samsungs and a pair of Xpand 103s. While the Samsungs would always temporarily lose sync at the same spot in the clip, the Xpands were rock solid and never lost sync. I've noticed the same behavior with other BluRays in my collection so it is most definitely the glasses.

My Shrek 3D kit arrived yesterday and my brother and I watched a little bit of the first Shrek with the new glasses. We haven't experienced any dropouts so far and they seem to be a little brighter than the first gen glasses. Hopefully, they'll continue to perform.

It is the glasses, some of them were pretty bad, others ok and some perfect. I have now 6 pairs, I got them cheap with broken lens on eBay and repair them myself, I'm an electronics tech. Of those 4 are perfect, they don't need tape to work and never lose sync, the other two loose sync for a moment on a very bright scene but return really fast. I have a pn58c7000, it is located on the wall 20 feet away at a 90 degree angle from my kitchen, and they sync from that angle and distance. My point is the emitter is pretty powerful. Keep trying, also of the ones I have tested the 2100t perform the best.

Good luck.

Guys. I cannot believe this thread has gotten this long. I have not watched anything in 3D since football season was over. I am now reading that the original problem was with the glasses? WOW! Samsung had Best Buy replace my set already thinking it was the emitter. What a mess up. How can I tell which glasses I have? The model numbers
SSG2100AB/ZA on both of my glasses. I have bad sync issue's. Will Best buy replace these or should I call Samsung?

I'm pretty sure those are early models. Unless you bought them less than 45 days ago I think you need to go thru Samsung. Be warned however that their support is spotty at best and depending on who you end up with they may want to temporarily charge your credit card to look at the glasses and repair/replace the glasses at their discretion (at least, that's what they tried with me).

You'll need to know the serial number of the glasses. The serial number will be on the bottom of the box they came in if you got one of the 3D starter kits. The serial number is also printed on the removable battery cover on the glasses but the writing is so small that you will probably need a very powerful magnifying glass or microscope to read them (I'm being perfectly serious).

I have seven IR glasses, two that came with the Mits 3DC started kit, two that came with the Samsumg Shrek kit and three other Samsung's that I purchased. Every single one of them (IIRC there's three different models in the group) work just fine with I use them with my Mits WD73735/3DC setup while every single one would lose sync with my PN50C8000.

My take on this is that it's IR interferance from the plasma screen itself that's overloading the glasses. A number of years ago I had a Sony plasma set and wanted to use IR extenders with it to control some remote hardware. If I hd the IR receiver anywhere close to the TV the IR receiver would light up, I finally had to move it around the corner, about 10 feet from the set, before it stopped seeing IR from the screen. This could be a reason why Samsung has given up on IR on the 2011 sets to sync the glasses.

When I find a scene that will cause a lose of sync I can rewind it on the DVR so I can try different fixes. One is just taking my finger and covering the IR receiver on the glasses completly, doing that and no sync loss. I've also done the piece of black tape over the receiver that also fixes it. IMHO both of these 'fixes' cut down on the amount of IR interferrance coming from the panel so that the glasses can see the sync signal from the IR sender.

Just ordered the NX-3DGR from Amazon for 50 bucks. I would like to see the Heat play in 3D. We will see how well these work. Also gonna take my original glasses to Best Buy and see what they say.

My first post on these forums, so be gentle...

And I know this is an old thread, but anyways...

I own a PL50C7000Y with one SSG-2100AB glasses that came with the TV, and two SSG-2200AR glasses I bought later.

I've been dealing with this sync problem from day one, and managed to reduce to zero the sync problem with one of the SSG-2200AR glasses using the electrical tape trick. The other two will still lose sync now and then, don't matter how much electrical tape I put on them.

IR emitter is working fine. I checked it with my cellphone camera. Another proof is that I managed to get one of the glasses working perfectly.

By the way, the emitter has three LEDs: one points to the right, one to the center and the other to the left. You can check it out getting very close to the emitter with your camera.

Well, back to the sync problem.

I was doing some weird testing today and found a solution that works 100%. Not fancy, will not look good, but it works.

Sometime ago I ripped off a (very) cheap webcam, and kept the pieces. Those that comes with "night vision", that means six IR LEDs to "see in the dark". These cameras comes with a little IR filter inside. Yes, its a IR cam, but still they have a IR filter. This filter is almost the same size of the IR sensor on the glasses. If you haven't seen one of these before, it is a very small square piece of transparent glass looking plastic with a light glossy paint.

So I though: what if I use this filter in front of the IR sensor on the glasses and see what happens? will it work?

Well, it does!

No eletrical tape. Just the IR filter in front of the sensor and made sure no light would come from the sides.

I watched about 30 minutes of Thor again. Just the parts I was getting sync issues. Not one single flicker, and I mean not even one of those that flicker so fast you almost can't see it.

My guess is that the IR filter eliminated any inteferance coming from the plasma panel. Since the filter is not that strong, it could not block the signal coming from the IR emitter.

So, this is my impression so far. I wanted to share with you guys to put this on the test. Can anyone do the same and check if it helps? Post your comments.

Thanks.

Wow so glad I found this thread. I've had my samsung pn58c8000 for almost a year now and have had that annoying problem with the glasses losing sync or color distortion.

I took some a small piece of clear tape and covered the sensor. That didn't work so I then took a tiny strip of duct tape and placed it over the clear tape and covered about 75% of the sensor.

My glasses now work perfectly. I can now play my 360 and ps3 perfectly without any sync issues.

I have some problem with SSG-2100AB

and a PS50C490

The glasses didn`t work at all. I powered them with the button, put the glasses on but there is no different with or witout glasses

Can anyone tell me if these glasses work with PS50C490

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=200656027907


Where can I find "XpanD Universal X103 3D Shutter TV Glasses" in Europe.


I would appreciate a response.

I know this thread is old, but I am a PhD scientist that owns the PN50C490 and like the 3D, but was having all of the issues discussed here. After implementing the tape trick EVERYTHING (99%) of ghosting and sync loss was eliminated. Therefore, I was compelled to gratuitously thank the discoverer of this trick and stress how well it actually works. This has reinvigorated my interest and belief in this technology. Gaming is amazing on the ps3 after this fix.

Sharp 3D TVs still use IR, even the 2012 models. I'm glad Samsung switched to blue tooth and though I was tempted to get one of the larger screens that Sharp has, the fact that they are sticking to IR was a turn off. I had a 2010 Samsung and the 3D dropping out when I turned my head or someone walked in front of the set was annoying. I really want to go passive but not till I can get a larger screen than a 65 and a set with full, true 1080P. Sony and some other manufacturers have stated that they will have passive sets in the future, probably next year. For now, it looks like I'll be getting a 64E8000 but I'm taking my time on deciding cause there might be something released in the summer that fits that bill.