AVS › AVS Forum › Video Components › Home Theater Computers › Final setup ... any last changes?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Final setup ... any last changes?

post #1 of 24
7/23/10 at 2:58am
Thread Starter 
Hi All,
After two-three months of digging in many forums, reading some magazines this is the final setup I've came up with for my HTPC.

Main Uses (while connected to 42" LCD and Onkyo TX-SR607)
- Play smoothly any new audio/video format and support bitstreaming
- Play mid-level graphic games
- View/Edit raw/jpg photos using photoshop etc ...
- SILENTTTTTT (most important)
- Low power consumption
- Nice aesthetic design

Setup
(you are welcome to comment, if a component should be replaced, down voltage etc ...)

CPU Intel Core i3-530 Tray
CPU Cooler SCYTHE SHURIKEN Rev.B
MOB Asus P7H55D-M Evo
GPU Sapphire Radeon HD5550 1GB GDDR2 Ultimate-Passive PCI-E
SSD OCZ VERTEX 30GB
HDD WD 2TB 7200RPM 64MB GREEN SATA2, WD20EARS
PSU Enermax Modu87+ 500W
Case Silverstone Grandia GD05 (3x120mm original fans but might be exchanged to silent ones)
Memory G.Skill 4GB (2x2GB) DDR3-1333, 1.35v, 7-7-7-21, CL7 240-pin DIMM
DVD Asus External DVDRW SDRW-08D1S (BLACK)
Mouse/Keyboard LOGITECH BLUETOOTH KEYBOARD DINOVO EDGE

Thank you all in advance ...
Reply
Reply

AVS Top Picks

post #2 of 24
7/23/10 at 3:28am
Good spec, looks like you've done your homework. I've bought two Silverstone cases, and while generally very good, the fans are not the quietest. If you're considering replacing the 120mm fans, look at getting Noctua ones as they're some of the best around.

I guess you're not going to be using the i3's GPU or audio bitstreaming abilities, but use the HD5550 instead. Is this right?

Any reason you're going for an external DVD drive when you have a free internal 5.25" bay? If you planning on dipping into pre-recorded HD, you might also want to replace the DVD drive with a BD-ROM, so you've got everything covered.
Reply
Reply
post #3 of 24
7/23/10 at 5:37am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tman247 View Post

Good spec, looks like you've done your homework. I've bought two Silverstone cases, and while generally very good, the fans are not the quietest. If you're considering replacing the 120mm fans, look at getting Noctua ones as they're some of the best around.

I guess you're not going to be using the i3's GPU or audio bitstreaming abilities, but use the HD5550 instead. Is this right?

Any reason you're going for an external DVD drive when you have a free internal 5.25" bay? If you planning on dipping into pre-recorded HD, you might also want to replace the DVD drive with a BD-ROM, so you've got everything covered.

Thanks for your reply tman. As you've wrote, I'm going to try using both the case's 120mm fans and if they are too loud change them with Noctua NF-P12or NF-S12B FLX or NF-S12B ULN and also try the i3's bitstreaming and if not as good as I expected I'll buy the HD5550 (which is fanless but will generate more heat in the case).

As for the external DVD, from what I know and read the optical drive generate both heat and noise and I'm not going to use it very frequently an therefore I'll connect it only when installing windows or having a dvd/cd I'd like to burn.
I'm not thinking of using a BD-ROM but downloading BD files only and play it.
I'd like to know whether:

1. I need to undervoltage the noctua fans to 7v or 5v when bought (and how do I do it? bios? software? external controller?)
2. How much the HD5550 will be for mid-evel graphic games and for audio/video play?
Reply
Reply
post #4 of 24
7/23/10 at 5:47am
Really, really nice build. I don't see any changes I would make.

Love the SSD/Green combo. I think you are going to be happy with that choice.
Reply
Reply
post #5 of 24
7/23/10 at 6:50am
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsather View Post

I have that case, I'm wondering if the Sapphire Ultimate 100294UL is going to fit with part of the heatsink above the top of the card. Let us know, I would like to use that card also.

Good point. Any totally passive GPU's usually have pretty big heatsinks that can extend above the hight of the card (and sometimes overhang adjacent slot's), so you'd want to measure up beforehand to be sure.
Reply
Reply
post #6 of 24
7/23/10 at 7:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lirsch View Post

Thanks for your reply tman. As you've wrote, I'm going to try using both the case's 120mm fans and if they are too loud change them with Noctua NF-P12or NF-S12B FLX or NF-S12B ULN and also try the i3's bitstreaming and if not as good as I expected I'll buy the HD5550 (which is fanless but will generate more heat in the case).

As for the external DVD, from what I know and read the optical drive generate both heat and noise and I'm not going to use it very frequently an therefore I'll connect it only when installing windows or having a dvd/cd I'd like to burn.
I'm not thinking of using a BD-ROM but downloading BD files only and play it.
I'd like to know whether:

1. I need to undervoltage the noctua fans to 7v or 5v when bought (and how do I do it? bios? software? external controller?)
2. How much the HD5550 will be for mid-evel graphic games and for audio/video play?

A lot of people rate the i3's very good for HD and bitstreaming, so if you tried this first and it did everything you needed, then I'd stick with it. This would mean no external GPU required, saving heat/power and might mean you'd be able to mount your DVD drive internally, which ideally, should be what your aiming for. Anything external will become a pain, and not look good when you're actually using it.

To be honest, a DVD drive doesn't generate that much heat. The motor/laser unit's are pretty quiet as well, and when playing a DVD will be almost silent as they'll be running at single speed. Only when you're copying data from the drive will it be noiser, and you won't be doing this all this time.
Reply
Reply
post #7 of 24
7/23/10 at 7:25am
HD 5550 is very good for video/audio, but may not be good for "mid-level" games, depending on the definition of "mid-level".
Reply
Reply
post #8 of 24
7/23/10 at 8:42am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by renethx View Post

HD 5550 is very good for video/audio, but may not be good for "mid-level" games, depending on the definition of "mid-level".

Let's consider FIFA 2010 as a mid-level, is that good enough ?
Reply
Reply
post #9 of 24
7/23/10 at 8:58am
I would be careful with the stock fan on the Scythe Shuriken cooler. I have one in my HTPC and the fan burned out which I didn't notice. Eventually the heat got too bad and I my motherboard and processor stopped working as a result.

I ended up picking up a different fan for the cooler (along with a new mobo and processor) and all has been good ever since.
Reply
Reply
post #10 of 24
7/23/10 at 9:18am
There are HD 5550 cards with better memory than DDR2.

http://www.hisdigital.com/us/product2-553.shtml

http://www.sapphiretech.com/presenta...000101&pid=346 (can substitute a fanless heatsink on it.)

And if you don't want EyeFinity, this one is best (but haven't seen it availabe yet in the U.S.) http://www.sapphiretech.com/presenta...000101&pid=349 , just need to get a passive heatsink for it like the Zalman VNF100 that I suspect will fit.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...029&Tpk=VNF100
Should be able to OC the core to 650MHz to match HD 5570 levels.
Reply
Reply
post #11 of 24
7/23/10 at 9:29am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by H8nXTC View Post

There are HD 5550 cards with better memory than DDR2.

http://www.hisdigital.com/us/product2-553.shtml

http://www.sapphiretech.com/presenta...000101&pid=346 (can substitute a fanless heatsink on it.)

And if you don't want EyeFinity, this one is best (but haven't seen it availabe yet in the U.S.) http://www.sapphiretech.com/presenta...000101&pid=349 , just need to get a passive heatsink for it like the Zalman VNF100 that I suspect will fit.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...029&Tpk=VNF100
Should be able to OC the core to 650MHz to match HD 5570 levels.

Wow, thanks for the update, but I'm not sure I'll need these advanced cards for my use, I'll look for it here in my country and check its price. thanks again.
Reply
Reply
post #12 of 24
7/23/10 at 12:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lirsch View Post

1. I need to undervoltage the noctua fans to 7v or 5v when bought (and how do I do it? bios? software? external controller?)

The Noctua fans come with two resistors, ULNA & LNA. You might want to experiment with the different resistors in combination with the BIOS fan control (you'll need to connect to the CHA_FAN1 header. The PWR_FAN header has no control).

I have the same mobo with a S12B-FLX case-exhaust and a P12 HDD-intake running off of a splitter from the CHA_FAN1 header. The P12 is running the blue ULNA and the S12 is running the black LNA. With the BIOS fan control set to silent (I believe the only settings that work are on or off) both fans run about 600RPM (hard to tell with the splitter, but they are very soft-sounding).

Or, you could buy a fan controller.
Reply
Reply
post #13 of 24
7/23/10 at 2:56pm
Thread Starter 
currently, I have these two huge 120mm fans comparisons -

http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=get...60&articID=936

http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=get...53&articID=892

What is your opinion now?
Reply
Reply
post #14 of 24
7/23/10 at 4:52pm
First things first.
Put it together and see what you have.
Reply
Reply
post #15 of 24
7/24/10 at 4:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lirsch View Post

currently, I have these two huge 120mm fans comparisons -

http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=get...60&articID=936

http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=get...53&articID=892

What is your opinion now?

Didn't read the whole thread, but the Noctua fans are rated very highly, and are pretty much totally silent. I use the the 120mm 800RPM's for intake and 80mm versions with the ULNA resistors as exhaust fans, and as long as your careful with the internal case design (keep the mobo as clear from cables as possible), then they work brilliantly.

I don't like a build where no thought has been put to the internal layout anyway. It's lazy and will lead to cooling problems. Put a bit of thought into it, and you should have a high performing, low power, silent HTPC.
Reply
Reply
post #16 of 24
7/24/10 at 6:05am
Thread Starter 
Well, I got many updates/responses, here are all of them, I'd like to get your opinions/recommendations about it:

1. Case Fans - Check if the case's 3x120mm fans are silent enough, if not, replace with the following (+under voltage):
- Noctua NF-P12 (5V)
- Noiseblocker M12-P (5V)
- Gentle Typhoon DC1225C12B5AP-15 (7V)
- Scythe SY1225SL12VBL (5V) or Scythe SY1225SL12L (7V)


2. GPU - Check the performance of the i3-530, If bitstreaming and mid-level graphics performance is not that good add a GPU

which might be:
- Sapphire Radeon HD5550 1GB GDDR2 Ultimate-Passive PCI-E (my original setup)
- HIS HD 5550 Silence (DirectX 11/ Full HD 1080p) 512MB (128bit) GDDR5 PCIe (new optional GPU)
- SAPPHIRE HD5550 1GB GDDR5 HDMI (remove the fan) + VGA Cooler heatsink (like ZALMAN VNF100)
- HD 5670 or higher paired with an aftermarket passive cooler like the Accelero S1

* Important - verify each one of the above passive GPUs fit inside the case while its heatsink won't overhang adjacent slot's


3. DVD-Drive - Consider buying an internal, silent dvd-drive like Pioneer 216D DVD-RW
Reply
Reply
post #17 of 24
7/24/10 at 8:18am
Did somebody mention Scythe "BIG" Shuriken?

Many games even won't start with Intel HD Graphics (because of extremely poor gaming performance), and FIFA 10 is such a game.

Check the recent SPCR aritlce HIS HD 5550 & 5570 "Silence" Graphics Cards. 100°C is not comfortable for me...

Sapphire HD 5670 is perhaps the best choice for your purpose (excellent in video/audio/"mid-level" games and damn quiet).
Reply
Reply
post #18 of 24
7/24/10 at 8:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by renethx View Post

Did somebody mention Scythe "BIG" Shuriken?

Many games even won't start with Intel HD Graphics (because of extremely poor gaming performance), and FIFA 10 is such a game.

Check the recent SPCR aritlce HIS HD 5550 & 5570 "Silence" Graphics Cards. 100°C is not comfortable for me...

Sapphire HD 5670 is perhaps the best choice for your purpose (excellent in video/audio/"mid-level" games and damn quiet).

May not be the best video card review, noticed error(s) in the chart and did you notice they actually measured the SPL of these fanless cards and included the system fan sound for it???
Reply
Reply
post #19 of 24
7/24/10 at 9:01am
The majority of the article is useless (for me). Still temperature measurements are useful and I don't think Lawrence Lee did something wrong in measuring the GPU temperatures inside Antec P180 (Nexus 120mm @7V is too weak?).

Tong Chia's results: Max temp is 82°C. "An additional 80mm Verax CairDb fan was added to the existing Antec Tricool. Tricool is set to medium." These fan settings defeats the purpose of the fanless GPU cooling, IMO, and the GPU temperature is still uncomfortably high.

Blow the air directly to the GPU (the most efficient way) with Accelero L7 and you won't regret it:

- Temperature < 70°C, always.
- Noise: xx dB; xx is so small that it does not matter for normal human ears. If your ears are so sensitive that the xx dB matters, perhaps you have to ditch all the case, PSU, and CPU fans.
- Cost: $0.00.
Reply
Reply
post #20 of 24
7/24/10 at 9:13am
Still find it odd to measure SPL (sound levels) of a fanless video card and include the system fan in those levels. Seems more than odd.

His chart lists all 3 having DisplayPort (when they obviously don't, only 1 has, he got the HDMI and DP backwards) and DDR2 on one card when the box shows DDR3 (which is correct) also, it incorrectly states 800MHz when it's actually 650MHz x2 = 1300MHz. Also, other reviews show that although the box and website show the GDDR5 cards are clocked at 3800MHz, they are factory default set at 4000MHz (which he should have noticed in his review as it shows this elsewhere in his graphics).

But perhaps the Sapphire fanless cooler with the heatpipes is a better cooler or adding a Zalman VNF100.
Reply
Reply
post #21 of 24
7/24/10 at 1:46pm
Thread Starter 
Well guys, I'll check out the i3 performance first and if not satisfy my needs, I guess I'll use your recommendation of the HD 5670 with a replaced cooler.
Reply
Reply
post #22 of 24
7/25/10 at 3:57am
Thread Starter 
Any final thoughts? Anyone?
Reply
Reply
post #23 of 24
7/25/10 at 7:58am
Tray = OEM, the warranty comes only from the vendor in a short period of time like 30 days, something you should consider.
Reply
Reply
post #24 of 24
7/25/10 at 8:25am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by renethx View Post

Tray = OEM, the warranty comes only from the vendor in a short period of time like 30 days, something you should consider.

You're right ... thanks ...
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Home Theater Computers
AVS › AVS Forum › Video Components › Home Theater Computers › Final setup ... any last changes?