or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Problems with Pioneer Pro 510HD, 610HD, 710HD, SD532HD, 582HD, 642HD
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Problems with Pioneer Pro 510HD, 610HD, 710HD, SD532HD, 582HD, 642HD - Page 3

post #61 of 92
Thread Starter 
One by one, try reeling down the reg values on r g and b, on GV Pin, in sm, starting with g. This will change only the HD mem, not your SD mem's.

Then bring up red Hor, or RH, and adjust #7, HLIN. That will get your side edges better on the red, vs. the green and blue.

I would not change any point values until you've optimized the Coarse values first.

b
post #62 of 92
Thread Starter 
http://toronto.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-s...AdIdZ334313567
post #63 of 92
Thread Starter 
The latest, from last week. This board was an accident waiting to happen.

Notice the pair of solder joints about to go bad on the left of the pic at upside down "R218", to the left of the really bad one at "L219". Both ends of resistor 218 have the telltale "halo" around the leg that eventually turns into the very obvious one on the right at L219. While that pair of halos at R218 is looking very innocent right now, it's only a matter of time before the on/off-heat up/cool down-expand/contract cycles of normal operation cause those halos to get cut deeper and deeper into the solder they are in, until both of them "go 360" like the circle of complete non-connection that's so very garishly apparent in the one to the right at L219.

Plus the one just at the edge of the shadow and the one just below that, in the string of pin connections to the right:









And for those of you wondering if I am still doing this, yes I am. Keep sending me your boards and I'll keep your big screens working.

b
post #64 of 92
Thread Starter 
Today's batch, from the board in front of me right now -




post #65 of 92
Thread Starter 
I just added some stuff to post 63 above, if you've already read it you might want to go over it again -

b
post #66 of 92
Just an update, I was more or less curious if the horizontal lines were suppose to curve to the corners in Full - HD; obviously they are not suppose to.

Anyway, found some time to get back in. I can't explain it, but the curvature was not as severe this time. What a mystery. I performed the coarse adjustment on the GV anyway, at times using a 4-ft level to ensure everything was square. Then went and adjusted the reds, and then the blues. Much better now. My wife's first comment was, text on the screen was nice and crisp. I'll probably go back in after a month or so to check it. Attached are the before and after images in F mode.
LL
LL
post #67 of 92
Thread Starter 
I like pic #2!



b
post #68 of 92
I'm wondering if I might get some advise on my Pioneer Elite HD610 64 inch. I bought it new in 2001 and its only been serviced once. It has just developed a convergence problem. I have replaced the STK chips in my Mits 20 years ago and re-soldered all the boards on my Pioneer Elite 50 inch 1989 vintage, so I sort of know what I'm in for .

I'm hoping with some guidance I can pinpoint the issue and order parts if needed to restore the best rear projection I've ever owned back to original. I thought I'd tag on to the end of this thread instead of creating a new one.

...Rob
post #69 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by camelpowered View Post

Just an update, I was more or less curious if the horizontal lines were suppose to curve to the corners in Full - HD; obviously they are not suppose to.

Anyway, found some time to get back in. I can't explain it, but the curvature was not as severe this time. What a mystery. I performed the coarse adjustment on the GV anyway, at times using a 4-ft level to ensure everything was square. Then went and adjusted the reds, and then the blues. Much better now. My wife's first comment was, text on the screen was nice and crisp. I'll probably go back in after a month or so to check it. Attached are the before and after images in F mode.

Hope you used the GV Pin register. That's what it's for, that curvature at the top and bottom.

Be sure when you go to do the fine point settings, your pic/grid is only at midpoint on its light level. And that ideally you use an external grid to do it. If you use the internal grid, the overall contrast/light level has to be turned down substantially to get it to arrive at the screen at a nice average midpoint amount of light level, then turned back up before you leave sm. Otherwise its internal grid lines are way too hot and that makes the lines way too thick and overmodulated for high precision work.

I use my Accupel HD signal generator, which has the ideal light level and thinness of grid lines for this purpose.

If anyone out there wants to use my spare Accupel for this purpose, contact me and we'll arrange something. My spare is the older version which does not have DVI/HDMI, but that is not a worry on the CRT RPTVs. Component is all you need, which is what that Accupel has, along with RGBHV.


b
post #70 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by robramm View Post

I'm wondering if I might get some advise on my Pioneer Elite HD610 64 inch. I bought it new in 2001 and its only been serviced once. It has just developed a convergence problem. I have replaced the STK chips in my Mits 20 years ago and re-soldered all the boards on my Pioneer Elite 50 inch 1989 vintage, so I sort of know what I'm in for .

I'm hoping with some guidance I can pinpoint the issue and order parts if needed to restore the best rear projection I've ever owned back to original. I thought I'd tag on to the end of this thread instead of creating a new one.

...Rob

The 610 is a 58 inch, sorry to pop your bubble, there... The 710 is the 64".

When you replace your ICs in the 610, be sure and upgrade to the STK 392-180s, and use only first run parts. Don't skimp and wind up with factory seconds, just to save a coupla bucks.

BTW, restoring these babies back to BETTER than original is my specialty. Google me and you'll get an eyeful. Turn me loose on it and you'll get the best possible job on your set. Page 45 of another AVS thread contains screenshots of my work in other parts of the country -

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...402397&page=45

Just scroll down until you see the pretty pictures!



b
post #71 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

The 610 is a 58 inch, sorry to pop your bubble, there... The 710 is the 64".

When you replace your ICs in the 610, be sure and upgrade to the STK 392-180s, and use only first run parts. Don't skimp and wind up with factory seconds, just to save a coupla bucks.

BTW, restoring these babies back to BETTER than original is my specialty. Google me and you'll get an eyeful. Turn me loose on it and you'll get the best possible job on your set. Page 45 of another AVS thread contains screenshots of my work in other parts of the country -

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...402397&page=45

Just scroll down until you see the pretty pictures!



b

I just measured the screen and it measures 64 inches diagonally. I always thought it was a 610, but maybe it is a 710. It is all enclosed in a wall unit so I have some work to get at the back. Would the 610 measure 64 diagonal inches?
I'm up in Canada so I'm not so sure how easy it would be to get to you. Are the STK chips behind the speaker grill up front like some of the older models?
post #72 of 92
Thread Starter 
Nope, you absolutely have to get behind the set and remove the lower cover to get to the convergence board. Stay away from the slanted section in the top half, which houses the mirror! You never remove that slanted section at the back with the mirror installed. It will nosedive into your screen sandwich, damaging both itself and your screen.

The viewable area of the screen is how they measure. So if it measures 64", it's definitely a 710, not a 610.

You can always send me a board to work on, I will test it out here before I send it back. I test on a 610, which uses the same boards as the 510 and the 710.

b
post #73 of 92
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Nope, you absolutely have to get behind the set and remove the lower cover to get to the convergence board. Stay away from the slanted section in the top half, which houses the mirror! You never remove that slanted section at the back with the mirror installed. It will nosedive into your screen sandwich, damaging both itself and your screen.

The viewable area of the screen is how they measure. So if it measures 64", it's definitely a 710, not a 610.

You can always send me a board to work on, I will test it out here before I send it back. I test on a 610, which uses the same boards as the 510 and the 710.

b

Thanks, I'll make sure of the model #. Know about the mirror. I just disassembled my 50 inch pioneer SD 502R and saved the mirror to frame, made some splashguards out of the nice plastic holding it for my car and will repurpose the wood for a bench. Just a pile of circuit boards and the guns now. Too bad I couldn't find anyone who wanted an NTSC TV. The cabinet and screen was mint condition and it had a nice picture.
post #74 of 92
Thread Starter 
I've heard they can make for good puppet shows...



b
post #75 of 92
Hi Bob,
I just received my board back, installed it and nearly fell over when it came back to life. WOW! Let me start by saying, my set has been inop for more than 4 years. However, I couldn't bring myself to throw it away for three simple reasons. First, when it did work, it had a gorgeous picture. Second, it is a beautiful piece of furniture. Third, and most importantly, it cost me a buttload of money when I bought it. I might add that due to unavailability, I had never seen HD on my set. Well, I made the right decision in reading your blog and sending the board to you for repair. The set works like the day I brought it home, and for the first time I've experienced HD on it. You fall into the "highly recommend" category in my book. Thanks again!
Jerry
post #76 of 92
I`m looking for the Pioneer Elite AUDIO Cabinet Racks that came
with the Pioneer 64 inch RPTV`s!
IF anyone here has them, let me know. I was
looking for the one`s with the DUAL Glass doors. Thanks.
I need at LEAST 2 of these. Thanks.
post #77 of 92
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iskypilot View Post

Hi Bob,
I just received my board back, installed it and nearly fell over when it came back to life. WOW! Let me start by saying, my set has been inop for more than 4 years. However, I couldn't bring myself to throw it away for three simple reasons. First, when it did work, it had a gorgeous picture. Second, it is a beautiful piece of furniture. Third, and most importantly, it cost me a buttload of money when I bought it. I might add that due to unavailability, I had never seen HD on my set. Well, I made the right decision in reading your blog and sending the board to you for repair. The set works like the day I brought it home, and for the first time I've experienced HD on it. You fall into the "highly recommend" category in my book. Thanks again!
Jerry

So glad I could help, Jerry.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisSwanson72 View Post

I`m looking for the Pioneer Elite AUDIO Cabinet Racks that came
with the Pioneer 64 inch RPTV`s!
IF anyone here has them, let me know. I was
looking for the one`s with the DUAL Glass doors. Thanks.
I need at LEAST 2 of these. Thanks.

Looks like you have AT LEAST 2 of these awesome sets, Chris! Bravo!


Owners:

Is yours a PRO 510/610/710 or PRO 520/620/720? If so has it had any intermittent problems that come and go? If so and it's one of the x10s, your power supply board needs nearly complete resoldering, and this needs to be done early on if you want to avoid damage that will ensue if you don't get that handled promptly. It is NOT best left in the hands of most local repair servicers, who only repair what's bad now. They typically do not future-proof that board, which is my specialty.

If it's one of the x20 series, chances are it's the same board if it has the same symptoms. There's a test to know for sure: If it's vertically mounted in there to the bulkhead of the set, it IS the same board. If mounted on the floor, it's not.

If it is, please get that board to me for resoldering and restoring permanently stable operations to your set again. Any boards I resolder carry my lifetime warranty on that problem not coming back again, as long as it was caused by cold solder joints on that board, which is how it came out of the factory and thus applies to every one of those sets ever produced. If you have me do it you'll never again have to worry about it, for the life of your set. I have been doing this resoldering op for over 7 years now, and this applies to all boards I have ever done, whether that guaranty was in place at the time I did your board or not.

And these sets are only midway thru their 20 year service life. Keeping it alive rather than buying new is the right thing to do, and not just to keep them out of the world's landfills. They were designed for the ultimate in HD viewing and are true classics, right up there with MacIntosh tube-amp Audio. Worthy of being kept alive for years and years to come. Fully cleaned and supertweaked, I will place them right up there with the new stuff you can buy today, which doesn't last nearly as long! And not only will they stand tall, they will soundly trounce most of the easily affordable stuff out there, by a noticeable margin.

Help me save more of these incredible sets. I have only saved several tons of sets so far in the last 7 years since I started fixing them, and am eager for more!

Once they are stable again, please allow me to bring them back to life for you, to a grade I guaranty you have never seen before if they have never been cleaned or calibrated. If you want to see what your sets SHOULD be looking like, please see page 45 of the Pioneer Elite PRO 510 Problem thread for actual screenshots of your vintage of set in action!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...402397&page=45



Mr Bob
post #78 of 92
Well, I do not have the TV`s.
I NEED Audio Cabinet Racks that are HIGH top to bottom,
and have at LEAST 22 inches in depth. And have a SOLID back and
on wheels, and have 2 glass doors.
Pioneer stopped making these years ago, I don`t know why,
but I could never afford these new, but I can used.
post #79 of 92
Hi Bob,
I have a Pioneer 610
It started popping and then shutting down in the beginning of this year
I was able to put it back on for a while, then it would not go on
I had Sandros come look at it
They said in needed a power board
They installed a rebuilt one and it worked for 5 months
Now it is happening again, warranty is up
Sandros will not come to the house, they want
me to bring them the set...

Is it worth it?
I am about to dump it

Thanks for any advice, Dave
Oyster Bay, NY
post #80 of 92
Thread Starter 
You have done what countless other owners have done who have found the same result: Pioneer rebuilt power supply boards are not future-proofed, like the boards I do are. And they don't offer anything even remotely resembling a lifetime warranty, like I do.

If you want it done right, send it to me. You'll get your board back fully tested, fully operational and with a lifetime warranty on the resoldering process.

Do anything else and you're on your own.

b
post #81 of 92
Thanks,
what's the charge and address to send it?

Dave
post #82 of 92
Thread Starter 
It's best not to discuss money issues on the threads. Please contact me directly.

Thx

B
post #83 of 92
hello, i just picked up a pro-610 elite. i push the power button on and the red light comes on but does not power up. i got it from a good friend and he said they were watching it last night but couldnt get it to come on this morning. is this going to be the solder problem ?
post #84 of 92
hello, i just picked up a pro-610 elite. i push the power button on and the red light comes on but does not power up. i got it from a good friend and he said they were watching it last night but couldnt get it to come on this morning. is this going to be the solder problem ?
post #85 of 92
Thread Starter 
You need to ask him if it's been having intermittent issues, like blue flash or fluctuation of brightness etc. If so and now it's going into protection, chances are something downline has been damaged by the cold solder joints these sets come up with years down the line. Luckily enough it's on strictly the power supply board - no other boards in the set have cold solder joint issues except the PS board.

When PS boards are sent to me while still intermittent but the set turns on properly when cold and is not allowed to warm up again until fixed properly, such PS boards can be sent to me straightaway and no further problems will most likely occur from then on, once fixed properly. But when the warning shots across the bow - the intermittencies - are not heeded, further damage will eventually occur. No doubt about that whatsoever.

At that point you can't just send me the board for resolder, we instead have to do a phone troubleshooting session to make sure whether something downline from the power supply board has been damaged. Sometimes it's just more of same with the PS board, sometimes other damage has indeed occurred to circuits that PS board feeds, from spikes caused by the intermittent conncections in a board that is supposed to be supplying rock solid power at all times. That needs to be pinned down before you send me your PS board.

Either way it's usually still fixable, just a little more expensive in that case. My success rate on fixing these fabulous Elite and non-Elite HDready Pioneers has been very nearly 100% and shows no sign of stopping. These units just keep going, and going, and going...

Send me your PS board and I'll save your set.

b
Edited by Mr Bob - 11/30/12 at 12:30pm
post #86 of 92
there were no intermittent problems whatsoever. it worked fine when they went to bed and didnt work the next morning.
post #87 of 92
Thread Starter 
Usually that means the convergence ICs need to be replaced, but no promises. If you want to sign up for a troubleshooting session over the phone where we can nail it down a little more tightly, you know where to find me -

b
post #88 of 92
Hi bob I got an 510 about an week ago ... And sure empire the power board had the issues ... However the set now will not power on at all and the power board has had every joint re done . I go and plug it in push the main power button and I get an red led lit on the power board . The power board is the only board with an led lit . ( its the power down led that is lit ) all the fuses are good and are not blown .. where do I go from there . I know these are awsome sets . I have gone over every board in the but I do not see any dammage to any of the other boards . The guy I got the set from said the last time he had powered it up , it had an black screen with white lines running from the left to the right of the screen .. and there was curved top bottom and sides of the screen . His thoughts was it was " stuck on the covergance screen " and he could not get the set to display any picture other than that . I have run into cold souder issues with onkyo tx-ds 939 htr and have repaired 45-50 of those with no issues with my work . Any ways any help with my 510 would be greatly appreciated . I am told you are the man when it comes to these sets .
post #89 of 92
Thread Starter 
Sounds like your convergence ICs need replacement, but that does not cover why you have no pic. Whenever this has happened in the past the owner's set has been cured by my resoldering process on his PS board. 100% of the time. Did you resolder the entire board, getting under the white caulking as well?

Send me your contact info and we can continue this live.

b
post #90 of 92
Yes every point on the board has been resoldered even under the white rubber stuff .. had to remove the white rubber stuff to get at the point that needed resoldering . All the fuses check out and every time I go to power up the tv the power board goes into power down mode and I get the red led .. and its the only led that is lit . I have checked all the outer boards and there is no dammage or other led,s lit up . I even pulled the power board out of it today and checked it just to be sure that nothing was missed . I will order new ic,s from mcm and replace the ones in the conv. Amp assy. And hopefully that will do the trick .. should that not be the issue do you have an used deflection board or know where I can get a good used working one ?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Problems with Pioneer Pro 510HD, 610HD, 710HD, SD532HD, 582HD, 642HD