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3D mode on my Mitsubishi DLP's - Page 6

post #151 of 662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcterp View Post

"The Xpands and Optomas both have fairly good 3D picture quality however the Optomas are IMHO the better choice."

With both DLP link glasses I can see the polarization rainbows (looks like a purple/green streak in the upper corners of the TV.

In my opinion an owner of a pre-2010 Mitsubishi DLP should get the Optoma BG-ZD101 glasses. They have the best picture quality and are the cheapest.

These great reviews of the Optoma's Is making the wait even harder!

bcterp, how large are the "streaks" on the screen? Is It a solid streak, or a flickering streak? Have all DLP-Link glasses had this effect?

On a side note, I've now sold the Disney Showcase disk for $75.00, and the Emitter for $100.00 and now my 4 IR glasses are up to $218.00. So I've made money back. And will have a nice credit for the 4 Optoma's.

It's all coming together nicely.

This thread has been a valuable asset. Thanks everyone!
post #152 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyabusha View Post

These great reviews of the Optoma's Is making the wait even harder!

bcterp, how large are the "streaks" on the screen? Is It a solid streak, or a flickering streak? Have all DLP-Link glasses had this effect?

On a side note, I've now sold the Disney Showcase disk for $75.00, and the Emitter for $100.00 and now my 4 IR glasses are up to $218.00. So I've made money back. And will have a nice credit for the 4 Optoma's.

It's all coming together nicely.

This thread has been a valuable asset. Thanks everyone!

These are static and never change, unless you tilt your head then they disappear. While wearing the Mitsubishi glasses a head tilt will cause them to become visible. Hence my comment about rotating the polarization to match the Mits/Samsung glasses. I have seen this rainbow effect with my Optomas and 4 different pairs of Xpands. It is always the same. I wouldn't worry too much about it, but if Optoma eliminated this they would be perfect in terms of PQ.
post #153 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuned1 View Post

So if I was purchasing a 2010 82738 should I just purchase the Optoma's and call it a day?

On a 2010 set, you might be better with the IR glasses. If you use DLP-Link glasses, you will have polarization rainbows.

If you use IR glasses on a 2010 set, you can turn DLP-Link off in the TV's menu and you should have good blacks and good color with IR glasses, but without polarization rainbows.

Then it becomes a straight-up comparison of which model glasses have better optics.
post #154 of 662
^ If you were to purchase IR glasses, which ones would you go with?
post #155 of 662
I was reading user manual for Viewsonic's PGD-150 glasses and noticed that you can reverse the 3D mode. I assume this means that the sync order can be changed to work with IR glasses. The Optomas do not do this and I thought it was worth mentioning.
post #156 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcterp View Post

I was reading user manual for Viewsonic's PGD-150 glasses and noticed that you can reverse the 3D mode. I assume this means that the sync order can be changed to work with IR glasses. The Optomas do not do this and I thought it was worth mentioning.

If they also have a tilted polarization to avoid the rainbow with otherwise same performance as the optomas, then they are the hands down best choice for pre-2010 users. But does anybody stock them?
post #157 of 662
So if Mits ever fixes the problem on the 2009 TVs so that you can turn off the DLP-Link...which glasses would be better then? The Mits glasses? I don't want to buy the Optoma's and the 3D adapter and then Mits fixes the problem in the firmware and be stuck with the Optoma's knowing there are better glasses out there.
post #158 of 662
I looked at the viewsonic glasses online, and they look exactly like the Optoma glasses, except for the manufacturer logo.

The Optoma glasses are made in China.

I suspect that Optoma and Viewsonic are both buying their glasses from the same Chinese manufacturer and there is probably no difference between the two glasses.
post #159 of 662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by globalgreg View Post

So if Mits ever fixes the problem on the 2009 TVs so that you can turn off the DLP-Link...which glasses would be better then? The Mits glasses? I don't want to buy the Optoma's and the 3D adapter and then Mits fixes the problem in the firmware and be stuck with the Optoma's knowing there are better glasses out there.

The Mitsubishi/Samsung IR glasses still have a slight green tint to the lenses. The Optoma's don't If I read correctly.
post #160 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by diamondpilot View Post

I suspect that Optoma and Viewsonic are both buying their glasses from the same Chinese manufacturer and there is probably no difference between the two glasses.

Do the Optoma instructions mention a reverse sink like the Veiwsonic? I'm having a hard time finding the Optoma instructions online.
post #161 of 662
So how do I hook up the adapter? I've got a Denon AV receiver that all my HDMI cables run in to from my PS3, DirecTV receiver, and my HD DVD player. I then have one HDMI running out to my TV. Can the adapter just be put in line from that one HDMI that goes to my TV?
post #162 of 662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by globalgreg View Post

So how do I hook up the adapter? I've got a Denon AV receiver that all my HDMI cables run in to from my PS3, DirecTV receiver, and my HD DVD player. I then have one HDMI running out to my TV. Can the adapter just be put in line from that one HDMI that goes to my TV?

Sure, as long as your Denon Is 3D pass thru compatible.
post #163 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyabusha View Post

Sure, as long as your Denon Is 3D pass thru compatible.

Hmmm...I'm guessing not. So I'd have to have my 3D sources like the DirecTV receiver and PS3 run into an HDMI switch eh.
post #164 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenisG View Post

Do the Optoma instructions mention a reverse sink like the Veiwsonic? I'm having a hard time finding the Optoma instructions online.

There is no reverse sync on the Optomas. Pressing the LED button on the Optomas switches between 3D, left eye image, right eye image. On the Viewsonics pressing the button changes the sync order, per the manual on Viewsonic's website. They do look exactly alike but at least the software must be different. I would bet the hardware is the same, but we'll see(fingers crossed for very small chance of rotated polarization).
post #165 of 662
Here is exactly what the Viewsonic instruction manual states:

To turn on PGD-150 3D Glasses
Press the power button, the LED and LCD shutter will flash three times. The 3D
Glasses will then be in 3D mode. If you press the power button again, 3D mode will become inverted.

There is even a diagram illustrating these steps and mentions inverted mode.

I don't think this information would be included in the instruction manual if it wasn't true. This is great news. I might not have to get rid of my emitter glasses after all.

Now we just have to wait for them to become available. Anyone know where to get them?
post #166 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhalbower View Post

Here is exactly what the Viewsonic instruction manual states:

To turn on PGD-150 3D Glasses
Press the power button, the LED and LCD shutter will flash three times. The 3D
Glasses will then be in 3D mode. If you press the power button again, 3D mode will become inverted.

To turn off 3D Glasses
Press the power button until the LED lights up.
․Operation instruction flow chart

I don't think this information would be included in the instruction manual if it wasn't true. This is great news. I might not have to get rid of my emitter glasses after all.

Now we just have to wait for them to become available. Anyone know where to get them?

This guy will be getting his pair soon from amazon:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1271507

I bet they'll be popping up at more places any day now.
post #167 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by bcterp View Post

There is no reverse sync on the Optomas. Pressing the LED button on the Optomas switches between 3D, left eye image, right eye image. On the Viewsonics pressing the button changes the sync order, per the manual on Viewsonic's website. They do look exactly alike but at least the software must be different. I would bet the hardware is the same, but we'll see(fingers crossed for very small chance of rotated polarization).

Sorry if I am a little confused but swtching between 3D left and right eye image sounds like reversing sync to me...what am I missing???
post #168 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleverland View Post

Sorry if I am a little confused but swtching between 3D left and right eye image sounds like reversing sync to me...what am I missing???

Correct. The problem is that dlp-link glasses sync reverse of the Mitsubishi/Samsung glasses. Short of wearing a pair upside down they can't be used together. This would provide a simple solution for those who want to mix different types of glasses.
post #169 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cleverland View Post

Sorry if I am a little confused but swtching between 3D left and right eye image sounds like reversing sync to me...what am I missing???

On the Optomas, you can have both eyes pass the left image only, or both eyes pass the right image only.

The result is a 2-D image without the double images you'd see on screen with no glasses, and without the DLP-link flash artifacts.

But they do not reverse sync such that you can get a proper 3D image regardless of the sync setting on the tv. There is only one 3D mode on the glasses, and that requires the "Reverse" setting in the Mits TV menu.
post #170 of 662
i got 85 for my disney disc. Hard to believe that a 23min demo is fetching this much with all the kits that frys sold out there.
post #171 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by diamondpilot View Post

On the Optomas, you can have both eyes pass the left image only, or both eyes pass the right image only.

The result is a 2-D image without the double images you'd see on screen with no glasses, and without the DLP-link flash artifacts.

But they do not reverse sync such that you can get a proper 3D image regardless of the sync setting on the tv. There is only one 3D mode on the glasses, and that requires the "Reverse" setting in the Mits TV menu.

Thanks for the clarification!
post #172 of 662
Thread Starter 
OMG OMG OMG!!!!!! Thank You Optoma's!!!!!!

Wow! Did I just get a new 3D TV or what!

No more green/teal/loss of blacks for me anymore! The glasses are amazing! Great color! Great blacks! Objects come out clearer and easier to see! Great 3D picture! I love the look of the glasses, the feel of them, a strong build, for years and years of entertainment! Easy to use, great keep safe box with great padding/foam Inside for protection when not In use. And they come with battery's!

And best of all, I don't see any polarization rainbows!! ^_^

My journey ends here. I finally can live In 3D peace now knowing I'm getting the best 3D picture from my TV.

Thanks everyone for contributing to this forum!

I'm so happy now!!!
post #173 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyabusha View Post

OMG OMG OMG!!!!!! Thank You Optoma's!!!!!!

Wow! Did I just get a new 3D TV or what!

See, I told you so. Wish I were so lucky as for the rainbows.
post #174 of 662
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

See, I told you so. Wish I were so lucky as for the rainbows.

Yep!

Yeah, I don't see any color bands or any color streaks or anything In any of the corners during any bright/white scenes. Whew! That was my only worry!

Now I'm waiting for the 10 Motorstorm Drift 3D tracks from to be released today on PSN!
post #175 of 662
I wonder why my Nvidia glasses seem to work along with DLP-Link just fine. Makes me wonder if Nvidia actually blanks out the white flash.
post #176 of 662
Nvidia 3D Play glases are controlled by an IR emitter connected to the PC and have nothing to do with DLP-Link glases. If when using Nvidia 3D play with a DLP-Link capable 3D TV you can currently use DLP-Link glasses then it just indicates that there not a reversal problem between the two types of glases.
post #177 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNnDENVER View Post

I wonder why my Nvidia glasses seem to work along with DLP-Link just fine. Makes me wonder if Nvidia actually blanks out the white flash.

I'm just curious, did you have to update your Mits with the firmware on the Nvidia driver disk?
post #178 of 662
guys, just started reading the thread today and noticed the green black yesterday. Has anyone contacted Mitsubishi yet to see if they will release a firmware update that will allow disabling of the DLP link? This is driving me crazy and I will be shortly writing an email to express my anger. Politely of course...

It seems like an easy fix if they would just enable the shut off, Ill report if I find out anything else
post #179 of 662
Guys I wrote Mitsubishi this letter today

Dear Customer Service,

I was calling to report an issue with my Mitsubish WD73C9 television. Let me first start off by saying, the tv is fantastic. The picture quality is top notch with an absolutely amazing picture during everything I have ever viewed up to this point.

I recently recieved the 3D starter kit and noticed a dramatic decrease in the quality of the picture in 3D mode. I have talked with some friends and they also noticed that all the blacks on the TV were a green tint. This is a very highly noticable difference viewing anything that is remotely dark from 3D movies to 3D games.

I have researched the problem online and found that it is the DLP-link flashing screen that tells the DLP link glasses to change shutters. The screen flashes green and is greatly affecting the picture quality. Speaking to people that own the DLP link glasses, there is no green tint whatsoever because the glasses become opaque when the green screen appears and the effect is gone. They also report that indeed the picture is the same stunningly amazing quality that the TV normally has.

I would like to know how I can turn the DLP link option off on my TV to disable this and solve this "greenish black" problem and restore my picture back to its amazing quality. If there is no way I can physically do it, I would like to request a firmware update that allows this option to be turned off. It is my understanding that the 2010 DLPs by Mitsubishi have the option of turning the DLP link off according to owners of this TV that I have spoken with. Please advise me on this matter.

Thank you very much,



I will let you all know their reply, looking forward to hearing from them
post #180 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jovan023 View Post

Guys I wrote Mitsubishi this letter today

I will let you all know their reply, looking forward to hearing from them

I had sent them an email a while back but have not heard back from them. I wonder if they respond to emails or letters?
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