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3D mode on my Mitsubishi DLP's - Page 18

post #511 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

WD-73837 is a 2009 model manufactured in 2010. The 2010 models came out around June, I think. You will need the Starter Pack or, at the least, the Adapter Pack.

Many thanks Augerhandle.
post #512 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by StratonAce View Post

Many thanks Augerhandle.

You're welcome, glad I could help.
post #513 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

The Adapter is set up to accept video levels. Most TVs normally accept video levels.

The Mits TV can accept either, because it was designed to also be used as a computer monitor. It is not a fault of the adapter that it uses video levels, it is an extra feature of the TV that it uses both.

The only "issue" is caused by a person incorrectly sending PC levels to a device that requires video levels.

So, you could say that the adapter does indeed crush blacks, but only with the qualifier "when fed the wrong source signal".

Why does a DTV receiver output a PC level signal? Thats bizarre. Does every TV not capable of PC levels crush blacks for DTV receivers and other YCC sources.
post #514 of 662
i am wondering if i am going to buy new 3dtv (65738), will i am able to watch full screen (blu-ray 3d movie) or half screen (blu-ray movie)?
post #515 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

Why does a DTV receiver output a PC level signal? Thats bizarre. Does every TV not capable of PC levels crush blacks for DTV receivers and other YCC sources.

I can't speak for DTV, but from what I've read the HR24 box is misreading the EDID of display devices, and sending the wrong levels.

I do know that if the signal is different than what the TV expects, the TV (or adapter, as in this example) will interpret it the wrong way and in this case, crush blacks. I don't know why the adapter accepts only RGB, perhaps to facilitate conversions to checkerboard, perhaps to save money. It doesn't matter.

YCC is an encode of RGB and is converted to RGB before being displayed anyway, so it is a no brainer for me as to how to set the PS3 for my application.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YCbCr
Quote:


Y′CbCr is not an absolute color space, it is a way of encoding RGB information


http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/sycc.htm
Quote:


You can't see anything in native YCC. It has to be converted back to RGB for display

If I run YCC thru the adapter, blacks get crushed. Period. This does not happen with RGB Limited. End of story. I have confirmed my setup is correct by running test patterns in all modes.

People can complain all they want about no YCC, and bypass the adapter for 2D, but guess what? The adapter will still crush the blacks when they switch back to 3D unless the source is also switched back to output RGB Limited!

post #516 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

People can complain all they want about no YCC, and bypass the adapter for 2D, but guess what? The adapter will still crush the blacks when they switch back to 3D unless the source is also switched back to output RGB Limited!

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Yes, I know, which really sucks about 3D with DTV. But right now I have the DLP Link flash problem too so I hardly even notice the black crush in 3D. Thanks for the info.
post #517 of 662
I have the 835..and will buy the Panny 100 BR player w/ checkerboard to use with the Viewsonic glasses.

Do i still need to upgrade firmware on the TV? I still have the original firmware.
post #518 of 662
I am sorry if this is not a right topic, but I am really getting crazy here trying to find a solution to a following problem: I had Mitsubishi WD 60738 connected via DVI-Hdmi cable to my Geforce 480 on my 3d PC and was having no problems with viewing 3D content until I update Mitsu software update. It just stopped working. The update was supposed only to add 1.4a HDMI support but my PC does not recognize my TV as a DLP anymore. It either says the "panel is not compatible with 3d vision" or the tv just stays blank depending on what cable I use. Please help
post #519 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Augerhandle View Post

I can't speak for DTV, but from what I've read the HR24 box is misreading the EDID of display devices, and sending the wrong levels.

I do know that if the signal is different than what the TV expects, the TV (or adapter, as in this example) will interpret it the wrong way and in this case, crush blacks. I don't know why the adapter accepts only RGB, perhaps to facilitate conversions to checkerboard, perhaps to save money. It doesn't matter.

YCC is an encode of RGB and is converted to RGB before being displayed anyway, so it is a no brainer for me as to how to set the PS3 for my application.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YCbCr
http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/sycc.htm

If I run YCC thru the adapter, blacks get crushed. Period. This does not happen with RGB Limited. End of story. I have confirmed my setup is correct by running test patterns in all modes.

People can complain all they want about no YCC, and bypass the adapter for 2D, but guess what? The adapter will still crush the blacks when they switch back to 3D unless the source is also switched back to output RGB Limited!


I am getting Direct TV installed on Monday. I will be running it and my Blu Ray player through a 4x2 switch so I don't have to go through the adapter for 2d. Is the quality of the 2D color as good as YCC if I set the Direct TV Receiver to RGB so that it doesn't crush blacks when going through the adapter for 3D?
post #520 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhalbower View Post

I am getting Direct TV installed on Monday. I will be running it and my Blu Ray player through a 4x2 switch so I don't have to go through the adapter for 2d. Is the quality of the 2D color as good as YCC if I set the Direct TV Receiver to RGB so that it doesn't crush blacks when going through the adapter for 3D?

If you can set both to RGB, there is no reason to bypass the adapter for 2D, and yes, as long as the color is set correctly, it will be fine in RGB. The trick is to match RGB with RGB or YCC with YCC and don't mix the two...
post #521 of 662
When you say both, do you mean the blu ray player and direct TV? As far as I can tell I don't have a problem with Blacks being crushed from my Blu Ray player except for the DLP-Link issue and I am using DLP-Link glasses to take care of that.

I needed a switch anyway because I don't have an HDMI receiver and I have 2 3d sources now, so I might as well use a 4x2 and get the adapter out of the way just for piece of mind. Also, I don't have to leave the adapter on all the time.
post #522 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by vanmike View Post

I am sorry if this is not a right topic, but I am really getting crazy here trying to find a solution to a following problem: I had Mitsubishi WD 60738 connected via DVI-Hdmi cable to my Geforce 480 on my 3d PC and was having no problems with viewing 3D content until I update Mitsu software update. It just stopped working. The update was supposed only to add 1.4a HDMI support but my PC does not recognize my TV as a DLP anymore. It either says the "panel is not compatible with 3d vision" or the tv just stays blank depending on what cable I use. Please help


While I don't have the same situtation where I don't get an image, I do get a 3D image but after the update now I get a lot of crosstalk. I watched Bolt 3D and on the opening sequence where it shows the disney castle, the Castle will be double imaged but the "Disney" logo looks fine. Guess back to the drawing board to get the HTPC to work with 3D again.
post #523 of 662
Did you try reversing the glasses setting? For me my DLP link glasses are set to reverse for the Blu-ray player and set to normal for HTPC.
post #524 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhalbower View Post

When you say both, do you mean the blu ray player and direct TV? As far as I can tell I don't have a problem with Blacks being crushed from my Blu Ray player except for the DLP-Link issue and I am using DLP-Link glasses to take care of that.

I needed a switch anyway because I don't have an HDMI receiver and I have 2 3d sources now, so I might as well use a 4x2 and get the adapter out of the way just for piece of mind. Also, I don't have to leave the adapter on all the time.

Yes, I meant both the blu ray player and direct TV. It appears the blu-ray player is already set to output RGB if it isn't crushing blacks. Even when using the switch, leave the sources set to RGB. That way, it'll be one less thing to fiddle with when switching back and forth from 3D to 2D.
post #525 of 662
I have HR24-100 box and how do you switch it to RGB?
post #526 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by DenisG View Post
Did you try reversing the glasses setting? For me my DLP link glasses are set to reverse for the Blu-ray player and set to normal for HTPC.
Yeah I tried that but no change in picture quality.
post #527 of 662
I just got direct TV installed today. The HR24 Direct TV box will not handshake with the Mitsubishi 3D Adapter. The TV keeps blinking on and off. If I bypass the adapter the TV will work fine but I can't watch 3D. I tried swapping HDMI cables with no luck. Anyone have any ideas? I have a 73737 with the 3d adapter.
post #528 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhalbower View Post

I just got direct TV installed today. The HR24 Direct TV box will not handshake with the Mitsubishi 3D Adapter. The TV keeps blinking on and off. If I bypass the adapter the TV will work fine but I can't watch 3D. I tried swapping HDMI cables with no luck. Anyone have any ideas? I have a 73737 with the 3d adapter.

If you upgrade the 73737 to the 12.06 Mits firmware, you'll no longer need the 3D adapter, and everything will work fine with the DTV HR24 box. I have the 65738, and also just got DTV, and it works good with the HR24 after the 12.06 firmware upgrade.
post #529 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsevern View Post

If you upgrade the 73737 to the 12.06 Mits firmware, you'll no longer need the 3D adapter, and everything will work fine with the DTV HR24 box. I have the 65738, and also just got DTV, and it works good with the HR24 after the 12.06 firmware upgrade.


That is incorrect. The WD-XX737 series TVs are not upgradable to eliminate the adapter. Only the WD-XX738 or WD-XX838 series are upgradable. Refer to the Mits website http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/3Dupgrade.html
Quote:
Starting November 16, 2010, Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America, Inc. (MDEA) will make available a 3D software upgrade for existing customers of the following models:
WD-60738, WD-65738, WD-73738, WD-82738, WD-65838, WD-73838, WD-82838
post #530 of 662
I can get it to work if I connect the adapter directly to the Direct TV receiver, but the Direct TV Receiver doesn't see the TV as compatible if I go through my Monoprice switch. Arg!!!!!
post #531 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickoakdl View Post

This is the one I am looking at:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...=2#description

And this is my super high-tech depiction of what my set-up would be:




So with this I should be able to have a 2D setting and a 3D setting on the tv. When watching 2D I'll just turn the adapter off.

I tried the Monoprice 4x2 switch and it works fine for the blu ray player, however, the Direct TV receiver won't work with 3D if it is connected through the switch, so I don't think the switch is a good option for people who want to watch 3D from Direct TV.
post #532 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhalbower View Post

I tried the Monoprice 4x2 switch and it works fine for the blu ray player, however, the Direct TV receiver won't work with 3D if it is connected through the switch, so I don't think the switch is a good option for people who want to watch 3D from Direct TV.

I've gotten DTV 3D to work using a monoprice 4x2. I even had the 4x2 working on both sides of the 3D adapter at the same time. In other words, I had DTV to input 1 of the 4x2, output A of the 4x2 to the TV, output B of the 4x2 to input 2 of the 4x2. I then select input 1 for output A of the 4x2 for 2D and select input 2 for output A of the 4x2 for 3D. Using this approach you have to switch 3D mode on and off on the TV since using the same input for both 2D and 3D, but it did work.

I think it may depend on which model of the 4x2 you choose.
post #533 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

I think it may depend on which model of the 4x2 you choose.

jjknatl, Which model do you have? Is it this one http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 ? Monoprice lists it as 3D capable.

Also, do you have the 4x2 connected to an AVR in any way?
post #534 of 662
My model is 4X2 True Matrix HDMI 1.3a Powered Switch. I think because it is only 1.3a compliant it is sending an EDID to Direct TV that says that it can't support the bandwidth. Direct TV gives me a message that my TV can't support 720P 3d. I have the newest HR24 receiver. What receiver do you have? what version of the Monoprice switch are you using? I wonder if their new 1.3b switch would work.
post #535 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

I've gotten DTV 3D to work using a monoprice 4x2. I even had the 4x2 working on both sides of the 3D adapter at the same time. In other words, I had DTV to input 1 of the 4x2, output A of the 4x2 to the TV, output B of the 4x2 to input 2 of the 4x2. I then select input 1 for output A of the 4x2 for 2D and select input 2 for output A of the 4x2 for 3D. Using this approach you have to switch 3D mode on and off on the TV since using the same input for both 2D and 3D, but it did work.

I think it may depend on which model of the 4x2 you choose.

With the setup you mentioned. How do you switch to your blu ray player? I had Output B going through the adapter to HDMI 2 on the TV and Output A going directly to the TV. I could select A1 or A2 for DirectTV/Blu ray 2d content and B1 or B2 for DirectTV/Blu ray 3D. Would have been perfect if my Direct TV tuner didn't think that I didn't have the bandwidth for full 3D HD. (Please see questions in post above this one.)
post #536 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milmanias View Post

jjknatl, Which model do you have? Is it this one http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2 ? Monoprice lists it as 3D capable.

Also, do you have the 4x2 connected to an AVR in any way?

I leave the AVR out of the video signal path. I go Toslink to the AVR. My blu-ray player does checkerboard through my 1.3AVR so I don't include the blu-ray in the 4x2 setup. However, I could have connected the blu-ray to input 3 of the switch and then sent input 3 to output B and continued to send input 2 through output A to the TV for 3D blu-ray, or send input 3 through output A for 2D blu-ray.

The 4x2 I have is indeed the HDX-420X. It was not listed as 3D capable when I bought it back in February, but I guess I got lucky for once.
post #537 of 662
Also, call me crazy, but running DTV through a switch on its way to the 3D adapter seemed to have a positive effect on black levels going through the adapter to the TV in 2D. This was just looking at normal content, not running a test pattern. Probably video noise from the switch that I am confusing with improved black levels.

Would be nice if the switch actually was doing a YCC to RGB conversion on the DTV signal!
post #538 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by bhalbower View Post

My model is 4X2 True Matrix HDMI 1.3a Powered Switch. I think because it is only 1.3a compliant it is sending an EDID to Direct TV that says that it can't support the bandwidth. Direct TV gives me a message that my TV can't support 720P 3d. I have the newest HR24 receiver. What receiver do you have? what version of the Monoprice switch are you using? I wonder if their new 1.3b switch would work.

If the switch/splitter sends a different EDID to the DTV receiver than the EDID of the 3D adapter, then it definitely won't work in that case. Not sure which switches pass through the EDID versus which send their own EDID but the HDX-420X must be passing the EDID through.

I would put DTV on channel 103. Look at input 1(no 3D adapter in the path) and would get the DTV 3D failure message. I would switch output A to input 2 on the switch and immediately channel 103 would appear in 3D.
post #539 of 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by jjknatl View Post

If the switch/splitter sends a different EDID to the DTV receiver than the EDID of the 3D adapter, then it definitely won't work in that case. Not sure which switches pass through the EDID versus which send their own EDID but the HDX-420X must be passing the EDID through.

I would put DTV on channel 103. Look at input 1(no 3D adapter in the path) and would get the DTV 3D failure message. I would switch output A to input 2 on the switch and immediately channel 103 would appear in 3D.

The switch you have is listed on their website as 3d capable. It is their 1.3b model. I was using the 1.3a model. That explains why it wouldn't work for me. I returned the 1.3a model and I am gong to order the HDX-420X. Thanks for your help.
post #540 of 662
I just recv'd mine for the new JVC 3D PJ & Oppo 93 and the box on the back says HDMI CTS 1.3c compliant.

Kevin
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