3D mode on my Mitsubishi DLP's - Page 22

Good deal! Yer welcome friend!

Ed

I had a heck of a time finding the adapter and unfortunetly had to pay a premium price. Wish I would have been shopping for this 6 months ago. Prices for these are now highly inflated on Ebay and Amazon.

Here is where I found one (if anyone else is looking) http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...=1328361118119

That dose suck. I know you do not want to here this but I paid $75.00 for mine new in July.

Yeah I was reading someone had them for $50 on Black Friday. Guess when you want to play you have to pay (at least thats how the saying goes).

So true

Got bad news today, my order for the 3da-1 was cancelled.

Almost snagged one on ebay but it got away too...

Guess I could buy the new starter kit and try to sell the IR emitter and IR glasses? Is that my best option?

Just curious about something - Is there a use for these other than converting older Mits sets to 3D? Just wondering why the demand is so high and why they are so rare.

I already have purchased the optima dlp glasses, if i buy the starter kit with the ir emitter and ir glasses would i be able to use both at the same time?

"Just curious about something - Is there a use for these other than converting older Mits sets to 3D? Just wondering why the demand is so high and why they are so rare."

These are designed only for Mitsubsihi TVs but people have found a way to make them work with the Samsung 1080p (not the 720p) 3D Ready DLP TVs. Since this was not Mitsubishi's plan, I bet the projected number of units to be manufacturered was small in the first place. After all, what is the total percentage of people that have offically compatible TVs will care about 3D or purchase the adapter 1%, 5%, 10%? That is still a very small number of units total. I bet this product was not intended to be a major "profit" product, only a good will product.

"I already have purchased the optima dlp glasses, if i buy the starter kit with the ir emitter and ir glasses would i be able to use both at the same time?"

You can use both at the same time however there are issues:
1. Often the DLP glasses need to be set to the "reverse" of the IR glasses.
2. The IR glasses do not filter out the DLP Link flash effects very so the picture quality may be lower.

There is a market for the IR emitter and matching glasses elsewhere.

Thanks for the reply.

You'll look pretty silly but you can use both at the same time if you wear one type up-side-down. Just make sure you close your blinds.....

Ed

Upside down would not be acceptable. are you saying the reverse setting would not work as suggested above?

No. I agree with what was stated above.

"Often the DLP glasses need to be set to the reverse of the IR glasses."

What he means is that you can't use both types at the same time in the same mode.......unless you wear one type up-side-down. Sorry to sound like a smart a** but it's true. I have seen an emitter that's supposed to allow you to use both at the same time but I don't know if it works and it was $70 plus shipping. I think it was at 3dglassesunlimited.com ???

Ed

http://www.3dglassesunlimited.com/-c...845e8cd40616fb

In your TV, you have settings for Glass L-R (left vs right) but there is only one setting for all glasses. This setting will establish which eye will be allowed to see first in the sequence. Some glasses work in reverse of others - this signal for Left Eye Open in one style of glasses is Right Eye Open in the other style of glasses. Only one eye is allowed to see at any given time. The proper sync is Left Lens open (allowing the left eye to see) and Right Lens closed (blocking the right eye) when the Left Image is displayed. Then the lenses switch to allow the right eye to see and block the left eye. The image on screen is also changed to show the right image. This happens 120 times a second (that is why you do not perceve this happening) allowing the left eye to see 60 times a second and the right eye to see the other 60 times a second.

If the glasses are out of sync with the display of each image, the 3D does not work correctly and it is very uncomfortable.

So if the "Standard" shows correctly for you IR glasses and incorrectly for your DLP Link glasses and you change this setting to "Reverse" now your DLP Link glasses work correctly but your IR glasses work incorrectly.

Turning over one type glasses and using them upside down does correct this (becasue the lens for left eye is now over the right eye) but it is not a very suitable solution.

Thanks for that good explanation. Sounds like the best option for me is buy the starter kit and then ebay the emitter and glasses and latter if needed buy another pair or two of matching DLP glasses. Thanks again.

Nm. Pls delete.

I just got the 3DC-1000 kit, which I think was a waste, since I have the 65738 model Mits that doesnt need a converter. Anyway, me and my Dad noticed that the whites were giving off a Red tint/shadow/ghost image that was really distracting and ugly. Whats going on here? I tried Captain America and Pirates of the Carribean and both have this Red tint on whites. I have the Sony BDP-S770 player hooked up through HDMI and just the IR emitter on the back of the set.

There is absolutely no need for the converter if you have a 738 or 838, besides the fact that you get the glasses and emitter. But as far as the redish tint you get, is that only when displaying 3D, or does it happen with 2D as well? Could you take a picture and upload it?

Only in 3D. 2D is fine. I may try another HDMI cable and another input. I'll post a pic today.

I got it to display properly. I tried HDMI 2 and it worked, but I also noticed I never configured HDMI 2 picture settings, they were all factory. So I set HDMI back to default and it works. So I dont know which setting it was that jacked my PQ for 3D but I also noticed that 3D picture settings are limited compared to regular settings. Looks like something to toy around with, but I'm just happy that none of my equipment is messed up.

Just hooked up my 3D Adapter and it is working but,I have a few newbee questions. I hooked it up inbetween my AVR (which I don't believe is RATED for 3D) and my 73835 and it works. My 3D sources are a comcast cable card in a Tivo going to my AVR, and a PS3. I haven't tried the 3D disk in the PS3 yet.

Question 1 - should I now leave 3D enabled in the TV menu or just turn it on when needed?
Is the DLP Link always flashing with this enabled?

Question 2 - seems the power on the adapter needs to allows be on to pass through a 2D signal? What is the adapter auto on/off then? Maybe I want a splitter or switch so it could be on only when viewing 3D?

Question 3 - I had to purchase the 3DC-1000 kit to obtain the adapter. I plan to just use DLP Link glasses so I will probably sell the brand new glasses and emitter what should I ask for them? Anyone interested can pm me.

1. Turn off the 3D mode in the TV when watching 2D. Yes the DLP Link flash always works while the TV’s 3D mode is turned on so it negatively affects the 2D images.
2. The adapter turns on and off automatically when a HDMI signal is being sent. However there are some devices that always send a signal even when they are turned off (they are not really off). For instance some cable boxes, satellite receivers and some Blu-ray players will send a black signal when they are turned off, black is still a signal and this prevents the adapter from turning off automatically. Some people have the adapter used with only one source device, such as a Blu-ray player. The ON/OFF manual control is for the situations where the Blu-ray player is off but still sending a black HDMI signal. TV manufacturers are under extreme pressure to reduce power usage especially when in standby.
3. I am not good at pricing the glasses/emitter combination but if you look places such as eBay, Amazon and even some of the 3rd party glasses retailers, you would get an idea about pricing others are asking.

Thanks for the good info. I tried the 3d sampler disk in my ps3 and it didn't work going through my AVR. PS3 to adapter to TV did work, now thinking about a splitter or switch so the adapter wouldn't need to always be powered on.

I am having a problem with my 3d TV and was wondering if anyone could help. I have a 3 week old wd-73c11 tv, Panasonic dmp-bdt210 3d bluray player, and dimensional optics IR emitter and glasses. First time I played a 3d movie (avatar) it was awesome, however today I was watching tron 3d and while the disc said it would switch between 3d and 2d, it never switched into 3d mode. I popped my avatar disc in and found that scenes that were in 3d the first time were in 2d (even though I selected the play 3d mode), I fiddled around with the settings but nothing seemed to work, then all of a sudden the emitter light up and 3d started working (the picture was normal before), we rewound Tron and re-watched the action scenes in 3d, but what would cause the TV to not go into 3d mode? Anyone know?

Another question:

Will IR glasses always be out of sync with DLP glasses or are some brands compatible? I don't want to open my IR glasses (if I am selling them) unless there is a chance they might work. I understand the DLP flash issue, I would use them for occaisonally for guests. Are the Mits glasses that came in the 3dc-1000 kit any good?

Also, any opinions or has anyone tried the "High Power IR Emitter for Mitsubishi & Samsung DLP 3D Ready HDTVs" that says has its own sync feature to allow both DLP and IR glasses

Guys, what picture settings are you using to compensate for this tinting with the 3D mode on going through the 3dc-1000?

EDIT: I guess it would be good to let you know I'm viewing on an 82837
Edited by AnthonyB - 12/6/12 at 7:47pm

You will never be able to fully compensate for that tint. The tint is casued by the DLP Link flash for DLP Glasses. It cannot not be removed by picture settings becasue it is inserted between the display of the left eye view and the right eye view. The picture settings only affect the eye views, not the flash between.

You can still use DLP Link glasses with the adatper if you want. However since DLP Link and IR glasses seem to work opposite of each other (Glass L-R setting). You should choose one type or the other and not try both at the same time. If you do select DLP Link, just disconnect the IR emitter from the adapter, the adapter will still work.

Truthfully, I am the only person that would notice something like that, Most or all of my friends aren't videophiles. Some of my family are but they don't live locally.

But what I am guessing that you are saying here is to get a pair of dlp link glasses for myself and guest who has trained eyes, lol

What I really said is DO NOT MIX IR and DLP Link because most of the time one will be backwards (things that are supposed to go out go in instead) and the person using those glasses will be unconfortable.

Well.. Do you think that dlp link glasses would give a better experience as far as the tint its concerned?