Marantz AV7005 - Page 106

For MCH, I use HDMI from my Sony SCD-XA5400ES. For 2CH, I use the player's DAC's into the 7.1 inputs of the 7005 (shortest path, with pure direct on).

Can't comment on the 7005 ''sound'' though, as I upgraded my SACD player around the same time. But now, I seem to have a permanent grin on my face that I just can't shake off.

@rob...

the link helped... what you want to do is defeat the "low pass crossover" entirely...

yes, the crossover in the pre-pro determines what gets sent to the sub (edit: keeping in mind that a xover isn't a brick wall)... what you don't want is a subsequent crossover to then further manipulate the signal...

re: cascading crossovers...

you want to have a single point in the chain handle the bass management... in this case, since you have a pre-pro to do it, you want to do it there (i.e. it is the only crossover in the system)...

cascading crossovers can (read: will almost always) cause "interesting" effects on the response of the system...

I've been very happy operating my Denon DVD-3930CI via 7.1ch (multi-channel) OUT's, I own a huge SACD/DVD-A collection as well. Prefer the analog path, sounds beautiful. But I do plan to experiment with HDMI and DSP (may purchase Oppo BDP-95).

Stupid question before I order AV7005.

Can I sent interlaced SD ( 480i or 576i ) over HDMI to AV7005 ?

( I would like to send 576i from my cable box over HDMI to AV7005, upconvert signal to 1080p and send it to my projector. )

^^^

yes... I send 480i from both my TiVo and my oppo, process it to 1080p in the av7005, and send it to the kuro over hdmi...

I don't know about your 3930 but my 3910 cost me a fortune yet I doubt I can get much for it now. Rumor has it that the Oppo 95 would be going for around 1K. I probably have to make do listening to the stereo tracks on my MCH SACDs until I get something else, hopefully the 95 but may have to settle for a cheap Sony 470 and keep the 3910 for DVDA if I cannot sell it for some real money. I am too lazy and cheap to bother with more wires for the MCH analogs.

I can understand sending 480i from your TiVo but I thought Oppo (assuming it is the 83) has top upconversion/upscaling so why not send 1080p from it.

it's an oppo 980h... used specifically because it WILL pass a 480i signal over hdmi to provide the downstream video processor as unmolested a signal as possible...

if it was an 83 (had one, sold it), I'd likely let it go ahead and do all the processing...

OK. I did it. I can tell the bass in the room is set up better, at least technically. However given the 6" driver on my Haydn fronts if I didn't have the Mozarts on the way I think I might actually go back to the "cascading" bass.

Sound right now is fine. It's just missing something.

^^^

just for "fun"... try bumping the crossover up some (maybe to 100) and see (well, hear ) what you get..,

it's also possible (likely?) that now that audyssey is eq'ing your sub, what you are "missing" is a big peak in the low frequencies.... it's also possible (likely?) it's eq'ing out some other problem areas in the midbass..,

give it some good long listening time... you indicated that you can tell it's "better" this way, so give yourself a chance to acclimate to the flattened response...

Cancel that last post. Need to read up on what LPF for LFE does. It was set to large + main and had the bass crossover set at 120. I set it to small adjusted it down to 80 and it sounds much better.

lpf for lfe = low pass filter for low frequency effects... that only applies to the .1 channel from the source (the "lfe" channel)..,

120 should be fine on that... technically, the lfe channel could contain information above 120hz, but I'd wager that mixes that do are few and far between...

more to come on moving xover down later after dinner... but keep in mind, the xover got set at 120 for a reason... there's a hole in the response, likely somewhere between 80 and 100 hz...

Never let it be said I stood between anyone and their dinner.

I fiddled a little bit more with it. As of this moment I believe the difference I hear is from switching to LFE for small instead of LFE + main for large which is where it had been set. Flipped back and forth between 80 and 120 hz and don't believe I hear the difference.

Time to put it away for now. See what it sounds like in the morning. Always possible my ears are playing tricks on me. I'm actually finding I like thie sound as of this moment.

You would think so. And for movies you are mostly correct. But if you have number of 5.1 music mixes, you'll find the LFE often extends well beyond. I just spent quite a bit of time investigating that matter, and was surprised how big an effect it had to switch an LFE LPF at 125 Hz on and off. And I also checked setting it to 80 Hz, and while for movies a difference could be heard in a direct A/B comparison, either 80 or 125 Hz sounded good. But for 5.1 music the 80 Hz setting sound great, and the 125 Hz setting sounded wrong--as compared with the original stereo mixes. Too much plump bass. So I left it at 80 Hz and everything sounds great now.

Worth some listening to see what you think.

How do I disable the Airplay Upgrade message that I keep seeing every time I turn on my AV7005? I don't want to purchase this option right now. The message is very annoying.

Roger,

Am I interpreting this correct you found setting the LpF/lfe to 125 was better? What exactly was or could be perceived as better. I ask because accidentally at one point I did the same a swore everything out of my ultra 13 was more dynamic sounding. Assuming this was wrong, I switched back to 120. Where there any other tweaks needed? Would love to hear feedback. I'm struggling with decision on a 7005 and a A100 and honestly the 7005 is starting to seam like a catch.

Turn off the Upgrade Notifications in MANUAL SETUP>NETWORK SETUP>OTHER>Upgrade Notification

It is a great sounding player through its analog 2ch outs, but has no multich outs except HDMI, which this Marantz accepts as 176.4khz

Did you find the 7005's VP as good as the 83 from, from memory I guess? I did not choose the Marantz for its ABT VP but if there is visible improvement I may use it. Right now I have everything pass through because I see no difference between converting/upscaling with any of my players and the Kuro. I have no idea what kind of VP is in the Kuro, just not ABT or Reon for sure.

most? how about most=99.99%? Definition of small/large needs to be on every 50 pages of any AV forums, as that is about how often the question gets asked, or not asked but people are making mistakes because of.........

^ Instead of "small" vs "big" maybe they should have used "normal" vs "abnormal". That would have reduced this confusion in most people's understanding of what they ought to select.

Yes I know

yeah, I paid retail ($1500.00) for my Denon 3930CI like 3 years back now, it was very expensive (I thought) at the time. These players are going for maybe $300.00 or $400.0 on the used market at this point (maybe more?). Moreover the DVD-3930CI had well documented problems/failures (laser, etc.,...), I returned my unit back to Denon factory service on three different occasions. But it's an exceptional sounding player and has held together pretty well for the last two years. At this point I use this unit primarily for playing music sources (SACD. DVD-A, CD). I'm happy with it. Hardly watch movies on it even though it yields exceptional picture quality for SD-DVD sources.

Later I bought an Oppo BDP-83SE which I really liked for the most part, exceptional video performance and excellent 2ch analog OUT. But I seem to prefer the sound of the Denon for 2ch analog. But I'm thinking the up-coming Oppo BDP-95 will be an improvement, we'll see.

I use a Pioneer Kuro (PDP-4280HD), I've been letting my players do scaling (Pioneer BDP-05FD, Denon DVD-3800BDCI). I have processor pass-thru video, seems to work beautiful.

Thanks for the info, mine is Pro-111 and apparently its video upconversion and upscaling is not the best so I may try the ABT VRS in the Marantz. I am pretty sure I still wouldn't be able to tell the difference. By the way I paid about the same for my 3910 about 5 years ago. That's one good thing about this hobby, things generally get cheaper.

Sure do - my old Denon AVR-5803 cost almost $5K when it was new in 2002. Just sold it for $400.

(I didn't pay $5K - I bought it on eBay in 2008 for $950)

I have a Marantz AV-7005 and just ran Audyssey for the very first time in my life.

I like everything, except my ears tell me there is too much boominess from my subwoofer now in my room.

What should I do?

Per the instructions in the Marantz manual, I set the volume on my sub at 12 o'clock prior to running the auto setup with Audyssey. In the past, I always had the volume on my sub set at around 9 o'clock and I had all speakers set to small and the crossover for all speakers set at 80 hz.

I had it calculate on 8 different settings. My subwoofer is a Hsu VTF-3 MK3.
My other speakers are all Dynaudio. Contour 1.3 MKIIs on front, Contour center, and Audience 52s as my rear surrounds. I drive my front 3 channels with an ATI 1506. I bridged it to turn it into a 3 channel amp. Then a Parasound A23 drives my rear surrounds.

Audyssey set the all of my speakers at large except the center. The crossovers for all of the front and rear speakers was set at 40 hz and the center is set at 80 hz

I'm thinking I should turn the volume down to 9 o'clock and run Audyssey again and let it recalculate.

Didn't know where to post this, so I did post it here and on the Audyssey thread also.

What say you?

Turn off DynamicVolume and, if that ain't enough, DynamicEQ, too.


?? Did you reset the speakers to 40Hz and 80Hz? I suggest you try resetting them to 80Hz.


That will make no difference as Audyssey will make a compensatory adjustment, anyway.

With your using a separate subwoofer, also reset all of your speakers to "Small."

That is where AUDYSSEY set the crossovers for all the speakers. Should I go back and change them all to 80 hz and set all of them to small?