Marantz AV7005 - Page 109

that's not good

personally I would raise the LPF for the LFE a little higher..lest you lose out on any LFE audio. Boomy bass would usually be tamed by turning down the sub gain a bit.

^^^^^

An excellent idea. Will give it a try this evening.

If both units have equal pre out sound quality and the same features why would you buy the AV 7005 instead of the SR7005? Why did you choose the AV (assuming you did since you are in the AV thread)?

Has anyone a different experience when comparing pre out of the SR with the AV?

^^^

yes, i own the av7005, a cursory glance through this thread should make that rather obvious...

i bought it because it appeared to "work right", had the features i needed, and it had balanced outputs (it didn't hurt that it is pretty)... since i already have xlr's in place, channeled along a wall to the front of the room where the amplifier lives, and i have no desire to re-run speaker wire (that is channeled from the front of the room to where it needs to go), balanced outs were on my "must have" list...

i'm an "objectivist who happily drinks from the cup of placebo"... until someone proves to me with a controlled test that they can differentiate any units (not just the two in question), anything that is said in reference to sq is merely subjective opinion...

^Hear, hear.

I bought the AV7005 instead of the SR7005 because:

- it has two sets of pre-outs

- one of them is the XLR variety which can be useful for longer wire runs but in no sense "sounds better". That's simply audiophile mythology.

- it consumes a mere 60 watts. If I use it as a switcher for my headphone amp, as I often do, or need to leave it on overnight while a A/V signal is being dubbed (recorded) from one location to another (as I often do also) I've used less electricity and generated less heat in my non air conditioned apartment. (it runs cooler, I assume)

- it puts my existing multichannel amps to use rather than making them redundant, and they only need to be powered on when actually needed.

- it weighs less

- "separates sound better than receivers"... Just kidding! Thats another myth accepted by 99% of "audiophiles" (and which I have no interest in arguing here).

- it saves me $100

I would agree with Chris, however, that to most folks starting out (who don't own existing multichannel power amps already) that the SR7005 is certainly the better value or "bang for buck".

Question....and yes I used the search function first and could not find an answer. I am remodeling My HT room and will be switching to all in wall or on wall speakers. I have a Marantz av 7005 and a Marantz mm8003 8 channel amp. I know I want the traditional 5.1 channels. The av 7005 can either do rear surrounds or front height or front wides (only one at a time). Anybody have any experience in which has the greatest impact since I can only do one of the three right now (will wire for all but just can't use them right now). I am 95% HT and 5% music so this is mostly for movies, tv and video games. I have already bought 5 Thiel powerplane 1.2 in wall speakers and don't want to buy the rest until I make a decision on what speaker configuration to go with. Any thoughtsexperience? Any input would be appreciated.

yup... if'n i was starting from scratch, and was interested in the 7005 twins, my choice would more than likely be the sr7005... there's more value for the dollar there...

i agree with all of your reason's for purchasing too, but that's not surprising... i think we both live in the "buy features/functionality" not "buy pretty adjectives describing sq" neighborhood...

^ Yes.
---

If you are trying to mimic the experience of a typical US movie theater with their half dozen or more surround speakers, I think the answer is clearly adding the two extra surround back channels. I would think this will provide for a more immersive experience, regardless of seating position, to the one depicted on the movie screen than the other optional pairs, but if you are going for some other aspect, then all bets are off.

I think a lot depends on the room and seating positions. According to Audyssey's website:

"Wides before Heights

One key finding from the research is that first side wall reflections play a great role in determining subjective impression. The most important direction of reflected sound was found to be ±60° relative to the front. Audyssey DSX provides a pair of Wide channels (LW and RW) at ±60° with appropriate frequency response and perceptual processing to match these requirements of human hearing. These Wide channels are much more critical in the presentation of a realistic soundstage than the Back Surround channels found in traditional 7.1 systems. Adding surround channels behind the listener has a very small impact compared to the increase in envelopment and soundstage width that the Wide channels provide.

The next most important acoustical and perceptual cues come from reflections above the front stage. Audyssey DSX provides a pair of Height channels (LH and RH) that should be ideally positioned at a 45° elevation angle."


Depending on the remodelling you are doing you could always wire for wide, height and back to leave options open. I wish I did that when I did my room, I have backs with my 7.1. My room is small so I don't know if the backs really add any value. Just did it because I thought may as well, life is short.

lmao, it would sit in a box like half the other toys I buy. I have over 10,000Watts unpacked still and $2K in new speaker drivers

Yes, I have the Bel Canto and Im using it all the time. Im comparing it against the Outlaw M2200. What I really need is a high quality switch box so I can switch back and forth, I have not found one that isnt a lot of $$$.

I didnt see any drops in the "sale" price for the AV7005 so I will continue to wait. Im pricing out my new 3D HT solution right now so I will need to buy it at some point.

I'm holding out for the XT32 version... And, I wear boots, so there!

You'll be kicking yourself with those boots when you realize you should've held off just a bit longer for the XT64 version. That's when the real magic happens which separates the men from the boys.

Have you read the reviews? :

"It was like a veil was lifted. Much sharper soundstage and imaging..."

"Night and day."

"It blows XT32 away."

"Now I realized what my speakers, amps and wires are really capable of! "

"I laughed, I cried; it was much better than Cats."

I probably shouldn't be sharing top secret information but my friend works for NASA and has been consulted about XT 128...its so good you don't even need speakers. His words..not mine. The man has a PhD and this is the interwebs so you know it's legit

Just a follow-up on my attenuator project for those with too much gain in your system. Especially as in my case Audyssey was out of spec showing -12 dB for one of my front speakers.
Here are my results. After a bit or trial and error i used the following scheme. I designed the circuit as having equal input and output impedance based on the input impedance of my Emotiva XPA-2 (33000 Ohm). I used 8dB as my desired level of attenuation. The exact numbers by the formula (http://radiomagonline.com/tutorials_...e_attenuators/) worked out to:
Z1=33000 Ohm
R1=7104 Ohm
R2=7104 Ohm
R3=31224 Ohm
Z2=33000 Ohm
Using the nearest resistor values available to buy I went with:
R1=6800 Ohm
R2=6800 Ohm
R3=30000 Ohm
I used all 0.5 watt resistors.
I bought a female to male XLR adapter from a local electronics shop. The barrel for the adapter is pretty short so you've got to get a little creative fitting everything in there, but I made it work. The result works perfectly and seem to have no negative impact on sound quality. I have about -4dB trim now from Audyssey for my two front speakers versus around -12 dB before. I chose 8 dB as the attenuation as it basically makes the Emotiva represent 24 dB gain.
I agreed with the speculation that the output impedance of the Marantz is not 50000 Ohm and quite honestly the D&M Rep admitted he did not have the exact spec from the engineer, but took it from the Outlaw audio guide. Regardless the circuit works fine without that information.

Additionally, while the transformer battle is on, I took the time to ask the rep what type of transformer actually is in the AV7005. He said the question had come through to them through other channels just a few days earlier and they had confirmed that it is an EI Transformer with a round cover. I believe this to be true but then again I think we all agree it doesn't make a real difference.

I also saw a post about changing the HDMI bypass output while on standby. I'm pretty sure you can change the bypass output from within the web interface. While the unit is off and on standby, the web interface is still accessible and functional. This allows you to change the video source within the unit. I have not tested this to confirm as I'm not at home now, but I believe it does work correctly.

Hope that info is of assistance.
Thanks
Kirk

one general reason is it's better to separate the amplifier source from the sensitive pre-amp circuitry. Allows for the ability to experiment with various amplifier brands/specs, etc.,...Also when pre-pro (AV7005) becomes out-dated (in two months) you can easily swap-out for updated model/brand. Separates provide a more "modular" set-up. I would only opt for SR version if I had very limited space constraints

does anyone know of a way to change the HDMI zone and or the standby pass through source with the 7005 in standby mode. I hate having to turn the unit on change what needs to be changed and then power it down. I don't have the network connected yet and not sure I will bew able to hard wire a cat5 cable to it

I am using two tv's in separate rooms that are only 20 feet away. I'm using the sat box so i can watch tv stuff while cooking in the other room. and sometimes I want to watch a PAL or other strange format disc that the oppo can play but my basic blu ray in the other room can't play.

I think others have had success connecting the unit via a wireless bridge rather than Cat5 directly.


I have mine connected via ethernet as I have many net connected items already (TV, Blu-Ray Player etc.). The wireless may not have the constant throughput and consistency for music sources but should be pretty reliable for the web interface I would think.
Kirk

You can power the two zones on and off either from the front panel or from the remote control, even when the main unit is in standby.

You can also change the zones' source select via the input rotary knob on the main unit or the "input up/down" button on the remote control, once the zone of choice is both on and after having struck the zone of choice button on the remote (or "zone select" on the front panel), even when the main unit is in standby.

Except for network control, I know of no way to make any other selections without having to turn the main unit on.

is there a list of brands that work? I couldn't find it on marantz's web site. how do you install the unit if you can't get drivers on it? does the 7005 have some sort of way around that? CAn you just use a simple USB wireless unit?

thanks

Sorry, not my area of expertise. Anyone else have any suggestions for john?

Something like this for a bridge?

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Wirel...5474276&sr=1-5

Get one that matches your router. This is mine

Wireless Bridge

a heads up...

for those looking for a hdmi sacd/dvd-a player, this oppo 980h in the classifieds is a pretty darn good deal at that price (no it's not mine)...

this would be consistent with my understanding/testing of how stuff works on the unit...

Possibly one of the better user-friendly lower cost options out there:

http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-WL-330gE_...=3LMMAJK2M1Y0F

Oppo actually sells the same thing on their accessory page.

OK, OK, the truth is my Pioneer SC-27 is doing fine (as a pre/pro, at the moment) and other issues led to me to postpone further audio purchases for a while. XT32 is a big step over XT, judging from the tech info on the Audyssey site, but I can't see 64 being a huge step beyond that. The other holdback for me is I like to tweak, and you need a $500+ add-on to do that with Audyssey. Yeah, only 10% the cost of my measuring system, but still...

Maybe I'll just wait for XT1k...

I recently went with this http://www.amazon.com/ZyXEL-WAP3205-...5486839&sr=1-1 and it has been flawless so far. It's a very inexpensive option that provides n-speed wireless and allows another device (like a TV or Blu-Ray player) to be attached without adding an ethernet switch. It only took 5 minutes to get it running and connected to my network using the directions here: http://www.amazon.com/review/R25LTWV...R25LTWV5S1Z4C3 Internet radio has come through smoothly without any glitches whatsoever.

I just watched Body of Evidence with Sharon Stone. The audio was smooth and perfect. Best Dolby Surround I've ever had.

I use manual equalization. After years of adjusting audio processors in radio stations, I prefer making my own choices. However, this sucker has so many options, I wanted to ask if I'm using the right setting. I used Dolby IIx - Movie. Is that right for Dolby Surround? I hope so because it sure sounded good.

The AV7005 one sweet machine. Very good manners.

when i used a 7.1 setup, i was partial to pliix for matrixing... so yea, i think you are using the "right" option...

others prefer the thx matrixing... there's no real "right" answer for this, other than "try them all and see which one you like better"... there are definite differences between them... edit: oops. the av7005 doesn't have thx matrixing... darnit... gotta get all these pieces of equipment straight in my brain...