Marantz AV7005 - Page 153

^^^

no...

what you can do is hook up your cable box with component cables, and then you can hijack the video from the cable box input over to the sacd input...

thx, I will try that.



Eduard

I order a 7005 just this morning. Should be here by late Friday.

Trying to decide if I want to set it up without reading the manual just to see how intuitive it is. (I know...I'm sick. lol)

I set it up without first reading the manual. It's pretty intuitive. It's still worth reading the manual after to check out all the features. For example I bet if I read more in the manual I might learn how to disable the stupid notification about AirPlay that displays every time I turn on the unit. Lol

I'm still in the "evaluation" period of my AV7005, but I really like the web based setup and control capability of the unit. Sitting there with my iPad I can control everything on the unit without having the TV on - pretty cool!

I'm still getting used to the Audyssey sound, but so far like what it's done with my subs - a fair bit smoother sound. I still don't personally care for the mains Aud. EQing it does, so I've got that deactivated, along with DynamicEQ (falsely bloated bass, imho, even with it turned down -15dB). I know the human ear isn't as sensitive to bass at low volumes, but that's the case anytime (train rumble far away, versus near, tornado rumble far away versus near, etc.). Just my take on the feature.

I've also upgraded to Airplay and finally got that working fairly well, but it's not intuitively obvious how to get it to work, what input to select (USB/Net), and there's a severe lack of ANY instructions on the feature (at least none I've found). I also had to restart iTunes a few times since it kept locking up and not letting me select the Marantz7005 as destination - it was on the list, but didn't like being selected. Perhaps my PC running iTunes is the culprit there though.

The very flexible bass/crossover arrangement is great. Let's the LFE channel play up to whatever you want it to (120Hz in my case), but can cross over my mains lower (60Hz or 40Hz) without affecting the LFE information. This makes the music programming sound great and easy, not boomy, but keeps the movie soundtracks intact regarding the LFE channel information.

This unit compared to my previous (still have it) Pioneer Elite VSX23 unit - the Marantz gives off a bit more noise through the amps. Nothing else has changed regarding cabling, locations, etc., just swapped out the Pioneer Elite and in with the Marantz, now I can very barely hear audible buzz through the mains and center (when it's amp is on) on very quiet passages in music. The Pioneer was much more silent. It might just be a ground loop issue and not the unit's fault, so I'll chase that down next (Grrrrrr).

Question - is there a way to see what Audyssey is doing with the sub output for EQing? I'd also really like to just employ the Audyssey on the sub and nothing else, versus L/R bypass as I'm using now.

I had similar issue when I put the AV7005 in place of my Anthem AVM 20. No hum/buzz with the Anthem but there was with the AV7005.

Not saying the AV7005 is the cause of the ground loop, but it does seem more susceptible to the effects thereof than some other units. After checking/trying the normal first line stuff (CATV system properly bonded/grounded, etc.) I ended up lifting the shield on the balanced interconnects at the amplifier ends. That got rid of it once and (hopefully) for all.

I'm using single ended RCA cables into my Mac amps right now, so I'll need to investigate some other areas besides what you did with the balanced cabling. I'm considering trying some XLR cables at some point to see if that'll take care of the issue.

I've got some other issues with audio too, but it's with iTunes moreso than the processor. Little clicks and pops through the audio, particularly noticeable with piano music. I've had this problem with my Pioneer, but now it's more pronounced on the Marantz. My music is stored on an external ESATA drive through USB into a pc, through the network (wired) through the router and into AirPlay. Quite a path, even for a digital signal to incur problems in the 1's and 0's.

FWIW.

I am reading this thread because I really want to get an AV7005 to replace my Pioneer SC-05.

I have a buzzing in my speakers as well. Not ground-loop,... it comes out of the mids and tweets in all 7 of my surrounds but not the woofers in those same surrounds.

So today I disconnected everything from the receiver except the 7 RCA's going to the amps, to test again for ground-loop. The two amps are wired into the same Monster Power HTS-5100 as the receiver. It's definately the receiver. I even replaced the pre-out / composite circuit board in the Pioneer ($75).

Finally I tried turning down the gains on my two B&K amps. Turning them down 1/2 way reduced the loud buzzing by 95% or more.

Then I turned up the speaker levels in the Pioneer's speaker-level menu by about 8 db (using a DB meter to ballance everything out.)

Peace at last.

The noise is almost completely gone. From loud at 10 feet away to barely audible at 6 inches.

Why just the amplifier ends? I.e., why leave it there on one of the two ends? Also, specifically how does one "lift" the shield, does that mean removing the 3rd pin?

I'll likely try that with the inexpensive spare Monoprice XLR cables I have as one final resort.

For a balanced connection, you probably could in many cases get away without a shield at all. But, it's fairly common practice if you need to break a ground loop with a cable to lift the shield at the destination end and leave the shield connected at the source end. It's only necessary to break the connection at one end to break the path and again, at the destination end seems the most common recommendation. I merely followed the standard practice that I've seen on several sites including Rane's (fig. 3, specifically, but without using the alligator clip. then a bit further down beneath the table, cable pinout reference #1).

To lift the shield on my cables I disassembled the connectors at the amp end (the ones with male pins) and unsoldered the shield connection to pin 1, then folded the shield back along the cable jacket, taped it down, then reassembled the connector. If you don't have soldering stuff you could just snip out the shield wire bit between the end of the cable jacket and pin 1.

@duckstu...

if your problem went away by turning down the gain on the amp and upping the output from the avr, the problem likely isn't being caused by the avr...

Were your lights on when you did the test? ( check to see if buzzing goes away with lights,tv, etc..off ) may not be but then you know.

I know right?

But I've tried everything. When I unplug the rca's from the AVR,... the noise goes away completely (leading me to believe it's not likely to be the cables,.. or electrical noise picked up by the cables er-route to the amps). Shutting down the AVR but leaving the amps on and again it's silent.

I can switch things on and off in the AVR (such as the menu or the MCACC cal menu) and the buzzing gets dramatically louder or quieter. I'll hear a relay click in the AVR and the buzzing gets nasty.

I can't believe it the cables. I've tried 4 sets. Comcast component cables, Monoprice Premium, AudioQuest SideWinder and KnuKuncepts,..... and as I said,.. unplugging them from the AVR results in silence.
.
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So with everything unplugged from the AVR except the rca's going to the to the amps....

AVR and amps both on, there's a loud buzz.

AVR off and amps on it's silent.

RCA's unplugged from the AVR it's silent.

What does that suggest? I can only think it's the AVR.

Yes,.. I tied everything. I have rope-lights behind my TV and I even unplugged those. Lights off. Subs disconnected.

Argh!

ok....so i measured the MM7055 for Middle Atlantic and my RSH shelf should be shipping tomorrow along with 4 other shelves i need. in the meantime i placed the MM7055 on a temporary shelf so i could get the AV7005, MM7025 and MM7055 setup going for the first time. Audessey ran flawlessly and i gotta tell ya......7.1 (subwooferless at the moment) sure rocked the Alice in Wonderland 3D BD that came with the 3D kit! the AV7005 didn't miss a beat, the 3D looked good.......this setup is the bomb, i can't wait until i can afford the 2 Sub 15's!

i took some 'in process" pics i'll post tomorrow.

anyhow, while installing all the Xantech IR extenders for the house i thought about how tacky the little flashers are going to look all over my Middle Atlantic rack. so my question is.........since all this equipment has "flasher" 3.5mm inputs on the back, can't i just run male to male 3.5mm cable from the Xantech IR connecting block directly into these components and not have to sticky tape the emitters to the faces of everything?

I run mine using the 1/8" mono cords instead of stick on mice. Works fine. Made my own cables.

What if everything is disconnected except one RCA to one amp? Do you still hear the buzz then?

If it's an AVR, do you get the buzz if using the internal amps connected to your speakers? Since the preamp section is presumably common for both the pre outs and for the internal amps, I'd expect buzz that way too if it's caused by the preamp. Of course, you'd need to have all the "stuff" (sans speakers) disconnected this way too for the test.

I don't remember the buzz before installing the outboard amps. Could be that it's the amps (doubt it though,.. B&K is WAY higher quality stuff than Pioneer,... and there's no buzzing sound when I play my Adcom CD player through them.)

Another possiblility is the in-board amps have less gain than the B&K amps do (when the B&K gains are cranked all the way up),..... so I just don't notice the buzzing with the internal amps, just as you don't now with the B&K amp's gains at 1/2 volume.

Who knows. But as long as the Pioneer's pre-outs can put out enough level to fully drive the amps with the gains where they are,.... it's all good.

I am also working on cleaning up some cables. At the moment I have a Samsung Blu-Ray player AND also a region-free Bubugao DVD player. The DVD uses massive Monster Cable component video cables AND a coaxial digital for the audio (4 cables, each 6' long) and the Blu-Ray uses a 6' HDMI cable. (sp a total of five, 6' long cables).

Today I ordered an OPPO 93 Blu-Ray player that's been modded to play all region DVD's. So I'll replace 2 units and 5 long cables with one unit and one 3' HDMI.

I also ordered 3 each of 3' and 4' HDMI cables so I can shorten some lengths.

I'll keep working on it,.. but I'm pretty sure the Pioneer is just noisy. Pioneer lists their IHF signal-noise as 103db,.. and the Marantz claims 105 db. Of course I learned years ago to not believe anything a Japaneese manufacturer says about their electronics (or motorcycles). 45 watts x 4 in a car head-unit. Yeah right! With 200% distortion, using a 4,000 hz test tone and measuring the current at the inputs of the output devices,.... MAYBE. Actual RMS output 20 hz-20,000k is likely to be 18 watts or less.

Sure would be nice if McIntosh produced an AVR that did everything the Marantz AV7005 does,.. and then sold them new for $1,500. LOL

I too have had this problem. I had the AV7005 and my MC207 too close together in which produce the buzz, but after moving them both far apart problem solved..

Well, yeah, if I could have gotten an Anthem AVM 50v or D2v for same price as the Marantz, I'd probably have stayed with the Anthem brand.

From my simple understanding I would expect exactly what duckstu said if the AVR was indeed the noise maker. Assuming this isn't a ground loop thing, which is totally different, or some other connection issue, if a device is making noise it basically has a low signal to noise ratio. By raising the gains he boosted the signal relative to noise, so the noise should go down once the signal is brought back to the same level. By offsetting the higher volume and output gain of the AVR with the amp's gain equally, the noise dropped relative to the signal. You can go back and forth to both extremes and see what sounds best, and I think you will find that whatever device ends up with the signal level raised is the one that was causing the noise.

Hi all,
I found an app for my android mobile for controlling the av7005. I like the app more then the web control of the amp. I would like to know if there is software for controlling the av7005 like the app but then for windows 7?

Eduard

forgive my ignorance.......what are 1/8" mono cords? are those the 3.5mm cords i am speaking of?

When you say "everything unplugged", does that include the HDMI cables?

I found my slight, yet incredibly annoying, hum goes away completely when I remove the HDMI cables from the AV7005 (the hum is still there even if the HDMI cables are plugged in but the actual components those HDMI cables are coming from are unplugged from the power). Mainly the Plasma HDMI cable ... which is the only one IIRC with a grounded/3-prong plug.

Don't want to use a cheater plug either with a 4 year old running around, even if the chances of anything going wrong is 1 million to 1.

Virtually the exact same secenario I had.

Get those Monoprice XLR cables (or modify the ones you have), lift the shield, and I'd almost guarantee your slight but annoying hum goes away.

slowly but surely!

Yes. Same thing

thanks!

Eliminating hum seems to be a fairly common problem among AV7005 users, and many posts here have given very good advice on eliminating it.

However, in my particular case, the solution to this maddening problem was solved by making sure all devices connected to the AV7005 were powered from circuit breakers located on the same 110 VAC leg. (these breakers will be located on the same side of the distribution/breaker panel). This simple fix completely eliminated a really nasty hum that appeared when I swapped my old Lexicon with the Marantz.

Yes, this is called "star grounding", ideally not just to the same circuit breaker leg, but just to be sure, the same single AC outlet (actually a single power strip connected to it), because all ground paths lead to a single common point, or "ground potential", of roughly the same length (resistance), eliminating or greatly reducing ground loops, and when diagrammed looks like the rays of light all emanating from the center of a star, kind of like an asterisk:

*

Using it, plus putting a ground isolating transformer or a transformer piggy-backed balun on the cable box's incoming feed seemed to cure 90% of all hum/noise problems when I worked in the professional installation world for many years. [the other 10%, or so, was usually light dimmers and switching power supplies used in, for example, many cell phone chargers, in the vicinity.]