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Marantz AV7005 - Page 274

post #8191 of 9615
^^
Room treatments are way under rated and most owners would be better served adding these instead of trying to decide whether they should spend $100 more for the next higher model AVR. I would SAVE your config file to a PC and reset the microprocessor.
post #8192 of 9615
How does one do those two steps?
post #8193 of 9615
You might try doing a system reset.
A soft reset is done by just unplugging it from the wall for a minute or so.
The procedure for doing a microprocessor reset is described in the manual. I believe it'll erase your Audyssey settings, though.
A full factory-level reset is officially undocumented, but I'm sure the procedure is available here somewhere.

Edited to add: oops. sorry, this was meant for Chris F v2.
post #8194 of 9615
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris F. V2 View Post

How does one do those two steps?

Web Control - pp. 58-59 (SAVE to PC)
Reset - p. 115 (which also includes placing settings in memory)
post #8195 of 9615
Yes my Totems are set to large
post #8196 of 9615
^It was a trick question and it worked. biggrin.gif "Large" is the wrong selection, regardless of which speakers you own and how deep they go in the bass, assuming you want your subwoofer to function as is proper using "bass management". Selecting "large" may very well be why you are dissatisfied with your overall sound and it would tend to make everything sound thin, anemic, and lifeless.

This is a very common mistake made by many (so don't feel bad) because the terminology they use, "small vs large" [instead of what it actually is, "bass management on vs. off"], is completly ridiculous. Whoever came up with it should be fired, if you ask me.
Edited by m. zillch - 6/10/12 at 9:10am
post #8197 of 9615
Did the procedure documented on pg 115 of the manual. No help. Also noticing an other problem of recent. When playing the system at decent volumes, I'm getting a light (but annoying crackling) from the main tweeters. Starting to think maybe the unit might have issues as both are new problems.
post #8198 of 9615
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris F. V2 View Post

Hi all. Having a strange problem. I've had the 7005 for a little over a year now. In the past month or two, I have had trouble getting the volume to display on screen.

What in your configuration has changed in the "past month or two"? Have you changed any settings on the TV? Try setting the HDMI-CEC feature (Anynet+, VieraLink, BraviaSync) on your TV to OFF.
post #8199 of 9615
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris F. V2 View Post

Also noticing an other problem of recent. When playing the system at decent volumes, I'm getting a light (but annoying crackling) from the main tweeters.
For the most part, preamps (or in our case an A/V pre-pro) don't "crackle" at decent volumes. For them "quiet" is just as easy to reproduce as "loud". Sorry, but I suspect you have blown your speakers (rubbing voicecoils) or you are clipping your amp.frown.gifThey are the ones that exhibit difficulties with loud, yet sound OK with quiet.)
post #8200 of 9615
I understand the speakers are suppose to be set to small but I was told by my Totem rep to set my forests to large and have the bass go to both the speaker and the sub so that the sub acts as it should but also the forests handle to bass too. The reason I do this is because I prefer the sound vs small even though its suppose to be set to small. But with my receiver set to send the signal to both the speaker and sub the sub does not produce any different as if it were set to small or large.
post #8201 of 9615
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
Room treatments are way under rated and most owners would be better served adding these instead of trying to decide whether they should spend $100 more for the next higher model AVR.

Here here.
The importance of room treatment can never be overstressed!
post #8202 of 9615
"1. Speakers should always be set to Small if you have a subwoofer. It doesn't matter if you are listening to music or movies. But Audyssey is not responsible for making this choice. The AVR is doing it based on the roll off found. It looks like in your case the roll off is near 40 Hz so that's what Marantz uses as the decision point to set speakers to Large. I highly recommend setting them to Small. You can leave the crossover at 40 Hz as found or move it up slightly. The speaker levels are not low. They are set so that all speakers in the system play at the same level. Because each speaker has different sensitivity and is at different listening distance, these numbers can vary. If you want to listen louder, just turn up the master volume. That way everything moves up and down in level together.

2. LFE only. LFE+Main is a bad setting because it overlaps the bass in the sub and speakers resulting in boomy bass.

3. Audyssey calibrates each speaker individually by looking at the acoustical problems it has in the room. These problems have nothing to do with content. However, by setting speakers to Large you are missing out on the much higher filter resolution that MultEQ has in the subwoofer channel.

4. MultEQ improves the performance of each speaker whether you are using 1 or 11."]

-Chris Kyriakakis

Audyssey

[bold text emphasis mine] Also, don't override what the auto calibration system says is the correct xover frequency, even though you and your CSR "know better". The microphone can hear room anomalies that outweigh whatever your owner's manual says about your speakers' bass response "is".

If after doing all this you still feel you need more bass, I'd walk over to your sub and crank up its volume knob manually. If you go too far though, all male voices will sound like James Earl Jones; that's a sign you should back down some.
Edited by m. zillch - 6/12/12 at 11:55pm
post #8203 of 9615
If you're not getting enough bass, it's better to change the subwoofer's gain in the AVR, not by using the subwoofer's volume knob. If you use the knob and have to rerun Audyssey later (perhaps due to moving furniture or other room modifications) it'll reduce the gain of the subwoofer channel in the AVR and you'll be back where you started.
post #8204 of 9615
Quote:
Originally Posted by Selden Ball View Post

If you're not getting enough bass, it's better to change the subwoofer's gain in the AVR, not by using the subwoofer's volume knob. If you use the knob and have to rerun Audyssey later (perhaps due to moving furniture or other room modifications) it'll reduce the gain of the subwoofer channel in the AVR and you'll be back where you started.
I personally prefer "dialing in" (fine tuning) this level via a rotary knob (instead of plus and minus buttons), but yes, if one ever needed to re-run Audyessy in the future, my method would require one to return the sub knob to its original position first.
Edited by m. zillch - 6/13/12 at 9:10am
post #8205 of 9615
The marriage of Denon and Marantz occurred to soon, in my opinion, before the av7005 was released to think that they combined together to engineer a new product and then to push it into both product lines with their minor tweaks.
My question, based on this assumption, is the following; Is my AV7005 a Denon engineered product in Marantz wrappers or is the 3311ci a Marantz engineered product in Denon facade?
Which team did the GUI?
post #8206 of 9615
^^^

it's a 3311 with a marantz faceplate and a few more inputs... all of the recent marantz models are sublings of a denon model...

i doubt that there was a significant combination of engineering teams...

don't look too hard for things that aren't there... instead focus on the obvious...

edit: why does it matter? it's a darn good product, even if it was designed by santas elves...
post #8207 of 9615
^^^^^^


LOL Santas Elves.

If so those little buggers are doing some great things....I still think the Marantz line is a better line but both Denon and Marantz are solid products and some of the best in the market now.

Hey DM Holdings also owns McIntosh so all is not lost LOL Its still reguarded as the Holy Grail of Audio to a lot of folks.....as long as I can afford a piece of that pie Im happy as well as it seems the previous posters are to cool.gif

Sorry Percey mabe you got a botched unit. I think the factory reset is Holding some buttons and pressing power at the same time. I thought it was in the manual somewhere but I havent had to do it so I dont know or recall at this moment.

If I recall the new Denons is press and hold the power button while plugging in the power cord. All the lights in the display will light for a quick second then click to stand by it may be the same for the AV7005. It wouldnt hurt to try it,
post #8208 of 9615
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccotenj View Post

^^^
it's a 3311 with a marantz faceplate and a few more inputs...

Interesting... What about the SR7005?
post #8209 of 9615
Quote:
Originally Posted by m. zillch View Post

"
2. LFE only. LFE+Main is a bad setting because it overlaps the bass in the sub and speakers resulting in boomy bass.



In my case, it's a 7.0 setup with three full-range active mid-field monitors at the front ( KRK Rokit 10-3 ), and surrounds that roll off around 70Hz.

Audyssey did my setup, determined there was no sub, and set LFE+Main.

Would I be getting LFE x 2 (so to speak) from my fronts with this on?
post #8210 of 9615
^^
The sub setting LFE+Main is just that, a "sub setting" and therefore doesn't apply if there is no sub (in that same vain, neither does the "LFE" setting). However, as the factory default setting is "LFE", not sure why the AVR would change that to LFE+Main. You sure you didn't set it to LFE+Main yourself perhaps at an earlier time?
post #8211 of 9615
Has the AV7005 successor been mentioned in this thread?

"The AV8801 and MM8007 have a copper casing, HDAM modules, 32bit/192Khz D/A Converters and 11.2 channel processing"

Dutch Article/source : http://www.hifi.nl/artikel_pagina3/7370/Veel-nieuwe-producten-van-Denon,-Marantz-en-Boston-Acoustics-Marantz.html#ixzz1xuDvTJ00
post #8212 of 9615
^^
It's been discussed in the "Anticipation" thread ---> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1400399/2012-marantz-receiver-anticipation-thread/0_50
post #8213 of 9615
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

^^
It's been discussed in the "Anticipation" thread ---> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1400399/2012-marantz-receiver-anticipation-thread/0_50

I checked every post and link but i haven't seen the AV8801 mentioned anywhere ... wink.gif Let me post this info there as well.
post #8214 of 9615
post #8215 of 9615
Dumb question...I got some 12db attenuators from Parts Express. Do I put them in line at the AV7005 or at my XPA-5?
post #8216 of 9615
Quote:
Originally Posted by globalgreg View Post

Dumb question...I got some 12db attenuators from Parts Express. Do I put them in line at the AV7005 or at my XPA-5?

Put them at the amp ends of the cables. That way the signal level travelling over the cables is greater and thus less likely to pick up noise from things like refrigerator, air-conditioning and furnace turning on and off.
post #8217 of 9615
Thanks, that's what I did. Before the attenuators, all but one of the levels were at -12.0db. Since only 4 were maxed out on the trim level I only bought two pair of attenuators. Now all the channels are within the min max trim levels. Four are between -3 to +3...the one that doesn't have the attenuator is at -10.0db. Is this OK? Should I have gotten another attenuator for that channel?
post #8218 of 9615
So long as the output isn't pegged at -12db, it should be OK.

I must admit I'm surprised at the large variation in input sensitivities. Are they connected to different models of speakers?
post #8219 of 9615
Front two channels are MB Quart's. Center is a Boston VR12 and the rear in-walls are Boston's as well.
post #8220 of 9615
So I put this unit on lay-away with my local dealer. How plentiful is the sound improvement of HDMI over Optical? I ask because I'm switching from an NAD T-163 that can't send full TrueHD and Master Audio. Though downmixed somewhat, the lossless codecs seem to have more dynamic range and clarity than do the DTS and Dolby 5.1 mixes. Would anyone who has gone from Optical to HDMI with this unit like to weigh in? Right now I’m set to pay $1368, tax included, for this processor. Would a refurbished NAD T-175 HD be the better bet at $1600?
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