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Cat5e issues - easy to kill it?

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 
I have a ton of CAT5e run between my fireplace and my AV stack in a downstairs closet. For setup and testing I terminated two pairs and have 2 sets of cat5e-HDMI baluns at this location (even though eventually only one will be necessary). Both were working nicely.

Then on an unrelated matter I flooded a neighboring bedroom with my fish tank. A bit of wetness got into the closet... no worries, though, as the gear was elevated and safe. I slid it a few feet out and into the room so I could get some air circulation in there, and then:

a) one of the cable boxes stopped working. It's just plain broken. Won't send a signal via any output, can't get the right time from the cable input anymore, etc. Worthless.

b) both sets of Cat5e pairs stopped working.

On one, the light on the receiving end doesn't light up, which indicates bad cable. On the other, the light is on but I still don't get a signal.

Is this stuff extra finicky? Obviously I have to test each cable individually, and I will... but could they have gotten screwed up simply by being twisted funny around a corner as I moved the stack?

I don't have a huge amount of trust in the baluns either, but they seem to be doing what they're supposed to. I need to test the cable first.

Just sort of curious about what kind of expectations to have. I can pull new Cat5e or Cat6 through, but only if I replace what's there (tight hole on this end that I can't expand). So I'm clear - is there any way that a terminated Cat5e cable can carry ethernet signal from my cable modem to my laptop (my easiest means of testing each one individually) but NOT support the HDMI bandwidth anymore?
post #2 of 10
That's pretty bizarre. I've found solid CAT6 to be fairly robust (in my use of it).
post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
I have some of that too. Should've just gotten 6 to begin with (I didn't because one person, who is apparently not all that handy, told me it was impossible to terminate). It's not the end of the world if I have to re-run some wire. Just annoying and a slight waste of money.

I'm in the process of testing individual wires with the cable modem and laptop now. I'm getting sick of tromping up and down the stairs.
post #4 of 10
Electronics don't like water at all. Is the fish tank fresh or salt water?
post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
The water had nothing to do with it - it was nowhere near any electronics, wiring, power strip, or anything. I moved their shelf (on which they were elevated 24" or so) in order to get a fan into the space.

Freshwater tank, though. Right now it's in the hallway. I moved the entire thing without help, since my neighbor conveniently disappeared. That sucked.
post #6 of 10
Sounds more like you had a power event or a device failure that may or may not have been related. If the cable box got hit with a power spike or just decided it was a good day to die, could be that it took out the balun with it...

Test the baluns (both ends) with a short jumper cable to make sure they still work with known-good devices on both sides.

Jeff
post #7 of 10
Quote:


So I'm clear - is there any way that a terminated Cat5e cable can carry ethernet signal from my cable modem to my laptop (my easiest means of testing each one individually) but NOT support the HDMI bandwidth anymore?

To answer this question specifically: yes absolutely.

HDMI bandwidth can be much much higher than even gig ethernet.

When using category cable for HDMI, you should always use Cat6 if possible, and be particularly careful about following ALL the rules for data cabling. Never stable obviously, don't kink it, don't step on it or crush it, etc. All the basics, you just want to be extra careful because it can be difficult to get cat5e or cat6 to be certified as-installed just for gigabit ethernet, let alone HDMI which can be up to 10x that bandwidth.

Further, 10/100 ethernet only uses 2 of the 4 pairs. If your cable is shorted or damaged, you may still get perfectly acceptable internet on your laptop. The HDMI baluns most likely use all 4 pairs, most do anyway. If your network and your laptop NIC is gigabit capable, if you get gigabit connectivity you can at least ascertain that all 4 pairs are physically intact. This doesn't mean though, that the link will work for HDMI as well, however. But it's a simple way to test continuity anyway without a cable tester or a multimeter+breakout cable.

Lastly, I've never seen HDMI baluns that were working start to fail based on the cat cable, but I *have* seen that happen with straight HDMI cable. I have also seen HDMI baluns fail. HDMI is very finicky, and HDMI baluns particularly so.

I hope that helps, you may have to spend quite some time investigating/troubleshooting.

Also try troubleshooting the baluns themselves by using some short cat6 patch cables to ensure they still work as well. Also test power supplies to the baluns. Could be something as simple as a transformer/wallwart gone bad, which is an easy fix. Could be many things, unfortunately. Be methodical and thorough, good luck!
post #8 of 10
Thread Starter 
I went with 5e on the advice of a Crestron programmer who said two of those is more than adequate. But then it turned out that the 6 was only a tiny bit more so I got that when I ran out of 1000' of 5e. Your post reminds me that when I was messing around with a crappy hdmi matrix I did make a short dual run of 6 between baluns and it worked for about five minutes before stopping. I think I must've tugged one funny or something. And while I don't remember even coming close to doing that, that'd make the most sense in this case too, as there wasn't any power event or anything else that I'm aware of.

Anyway, I get ethernet through all of them. I'm going to make new pairs of cables for balun testing and also possibly snip the wires off and re-terminate each end in case I tugged one side out. Who knows.

It did not take me very long to go from optimism about all this stuff to joining the club of people who hate HDMI. I've already got a ton of these wires run though, so I still feel obligated to try to make it work. But I may just go with component everywhere and just run one actual HDMI cable direct from the BRD player to the upstairs 1080p screen... it's a short enough run that I can pull that off, and it's the secondary theater so it's worth the effort, I guess.
post #9 of 10
Quote:


I went with 5e on the advice of a Crestron programmer who said two of those is more than adequate.

ugh. Programmers. That was bad advice. :/
post #10 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisWiggles View Post

ugh. Programmers.

Hey! I resemble that remark! Although I completely agree, I'd never recommend 5e over 6 in a job these days (or for the past, say, 3 years).

I'd check out the terminations. For data, I'd generally recommend using a punch-down connector of some sort (keystone or patch panel). With video, having as few connections as possible is usually better, but you really need to make sure your terminations are good. I'd try re-terminating one or both ends of the cable (assuming they're not punch-down's). Also, it is worth noting that there are different connectors for solid vs stranded wire. Most connectors you buy are for stranded, so if you have solid cable, be sure you have connectors for solid cable.
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