"Official" Yamaha RX-A1000/RX-A2000/RX-A3000 thread - Page 68

Guys, I'm kinda of in a budget here and trying to pick either the A1000 or the A2000.

Audioholics gave the A3000 a great review and stated it provides more power than advertised to 7 channels, a whooping 150W!
According to Yamaha:
A3000 is 140W, weights about 45lbs and can be found for US$1500
A2000 is 130W, weights about 41.5lbs and can be found for US$1100
A1000 is 105W, weights about 38lbs and can be found for US$770

Now, the dropout in power is quite noticeable between the A2000 and A1000, but I'm suspicious it's more about market, because the weight difference makes me believe the A1000 is more similar in power to the A2000 than the A2000 is to the A3000.

As in: if the A3000 can provide 150W per channel, the A2000 will be able to provide 135W while the A1000 will be able to provide 125W.


Anyone got the power measurements for either the A2000 or A1000? Any thoughts on that? Please?

Thanks!


EDIT: about the technologies available for each one of 'em, the A1000 differ from the A2000 and A3000 because in it the "IDT" is not available. Sorry for being so n00bish but... what is it?

not necessarily more than published - as the 150W was a new "dynamic" all channels driven test - rather than the harder tests normally used, where it was way down on rated - but due to power protection kicking in on board

the 150W is meant to show that in real world the power is plenty as its very unlikely you'd ever get any music/movies where all channels are driven fully at same time

If you read this thread there's plenty of info on the differences between the 1000, 2000 and 3000. Some people have the 1000 and are happy with it, but don't buy the 1000 on the basis of the 3000 review and measurements. You also need to understand what features are missing on the 1000 and if they are important to you. The 2000 is a lot closer to the 3000 than the 1000 is.

Nice set up. In your Sharp Aquos turn off the Aquos link. It is in the set up menu. The TV is really looking for a pairing partner and this signal can cause the audio drop outs.

The RX-A setting look good at this point.

I don't mean to be disrespectful, friend, but this topic is 68 pages long. I've read some of it (about 3 pages) right now and got little catharsis out of it. There's no harm in asking, and I do hope (don't expect) somebody with good knowledge and some time to spare will help me out on this matter.


Tho I did found out what the IDT chip is ,on Yamaha's description for the A3000. It's the Vida chip I've been hearing about, for video processing, which sounds great.
So far it's the only technology I'd be missing from the A2000 if I got the A1000. I'm building me a 5.1 system and MAYYYBE I'll make it a 7.2 in some years from now. And I've no intention for more than 7.2 in my next, say, 10 years. By then that receiver will be dust already.

Are there any more big differences between the A2000 and A1000 except the Vida and 9.2 expandability?

And about power differences between the A1000 and A2000, anyone got good info on it?




EDIT: Sorry, just now I noticed your post, marka

I see, indeed there are many different tests and I know very little about 'em. But, whereas the Yamaha's Vantage series go below advertised power would you say other brands perform significantly better for the same price range?

As an owner of the RX-A2000 I can only really tell you why I went with this model. Great sound, versatility and room to grow when I am able. The answers you are looking for are in this thread - about the quality of the DAC's, power levels, how to set it up and such. Do your research - then you can make an informed decision.

Ah, had my hopes up when I saw that the Aquos Link feature was turned on... but sadly it made no difference turning it off.

I have an older PC that I was once using as my Media Center... I think I'll try rigging it up again just to see if the problem occurs with that system too. I'm really hoping it's something I can swap in the PC.

Can I ask what kinda of PC (motherboard, video, sound) you're using with your RX-A2000?

But dig out such specific information in 68 pages just isn't very... user friendly. The "user" being me.


Wolffe, have you contacted Yamaha yet? I mean, you bought the product from 'em, they owe you some help!

I am using an older Sony Vaio laptop on the TV system. It is a pretty basic system as it was used for work mostly. Now it just hangs around as a back up system and for TV streaming.

Are you using the receiver manager? If not I suggest you download the program and run it with you receiver. Save the settings and reset your receiver then reload your setting with the receiver manager. The reset allows the machine to start fresh and most times the problems melt away with out any explanation.

Try the search at the top of the page. You never know!

Yeah, I probably should but I hate dealing with tech support. Plus, I'm sure the first thing they will try to do is eliminate the possibility that the problem lies anywhere except the receiver...

Everything else seems to be working great with the receiver. I have a satellite receiver, 360, PS3, and a Wii hooked up. No problems with anything else (although I have to admit that the game consoles haven't received a lot of play since the upgrade).

Does the RX-A1000 or RX-A2000 have the following features? (No Luck trying to find this at Yamaha USA/Google).

Custom Volume Gain with each Input
Per Speaker Crossover??

And any Issues playing FLAC's over the network?

All models have a per input "Volume Trim", which is an offset up to +/- 6dB that you can set and it is remembered for each input.

The A2000 has per speaker crossover (actually one per per speaker "group": fronts, center, surrounds, rear surrounds). The A1000 only has a single global crossover.

Don't know about FLAC.

I already ran the receiver manager many times over the last few nights but I didn't find anything that appeared would help -- that is, until I went in just now to try your backup and reset suggestion. I somehow missed the option that assigns the audio input type to the AV input. This was set to "auto". I just set this to "coax/opt" and I have now been playing a blu-ray for the last 40 minutes without a single drop-out!

Maybe the receiver was incorrectly identifying some audio signal on the HDMI input (which is connected to the DVI output of my video card) and it was temporarily switching.

Keeping my fingers and toes crossed! Of course, as soon as I hit send on this post the audio is going to cut-out...

As a matter of fact I did try the search button, firts thing off. And I got some pretty uncomprehensive set of posts which only show their first 2 sentences, and when I click on 'em I'm redirected to the topics very first page and not the post itself that I aimed at.

Sound's like you found the issue and the drop outs should be a thing of the past.

Enjoy

Hi, I'm new to the forum, but not to stereo world. I have a number of SAE stereo equipment including power amps (most at 250 watts RMS per channel), Para eq's, pre amps and the list goes on.
My question is how to use my Bryson power amp(300 watts RMS per channel tested by Bryston) for my front speakers. on the RX-A3000 Yamaha surround receiver?
At Present I'm bi-amp my Angstrom tower 80's. I hooked up the Bryston to the Pre out (fronts/presence RCA hookups). the amp would not do the mike test nor would it play anything. What I'm I doing that it is not working properly. I'm running a 5.1 but I'm may add two more speakers to make it 7.1 and then another sub to do 7.2 and work on finishing off the room with an 11.2. What I'm I not doing.
I tried to figure out which one to use. I'm working fine on the 5.1 amp/ sub selection. I have not had this much of a headache in the years of my stereo experience. If I go to pages 142 to 145 or so will I find my answer. I'm I hooking it up wrong. Also, I just received message on the that my left speaker is cross wired. Well it working on my 5.1 bi amp.
Please assist.
thanks in advance
Winnipeg is cool to very cold these days.

Moori

Can anyone please comment on the FLAC playing capabilities of the RX-AX000 Lineup?

Hi from Victoria, yes it is the time of year for cold on the Prairies!

I have found the RX-A2000 and most likely the 3000 as well very intuitive when handling the amps. To do the bi-amping though the Bryson I can only suggest ( I have 7 speakers set up and no external amp) to use the back surrounds and the fronts RC connections to the Bryson, set up the rest as usual. Use the amp selection as 5.1 bi amp to start. It should pick up the set up as any speaker port not used will show as none. If not, turn off the 3000, count to 10 and turn it on again. It should be enough time for the reciever to clue in that you have this set up.

Have you set up the receiver manager, it allows for you tweak it easier than running though the menus on the remote. The receiver manager also allow you to save the set up so if you need to do a reset, the settings will be easy to reload afterward.

I have noticed that these Rx-A tend to be like early computers is some of the handling and sometimes turning the unit off allows for the system to behave itself.

Best of luck in this.

I have the 2000 and have no issues playing Flac type files stored on my network...

Well, it turns out that forcing the audio input didn't fix the problem either. I'm still getting audio dropouts but for some reason it is happening a lot less frequently now.

I think my next step is to contact Yamaha and see what they suggest...

Greetings. I have a new RX-A2000. Speakers are older but beauties; B&W CDM 7NT mains, 1NT rears, matching center center speaker and a Martin Logan Depth for my 5.1 (no other zones). Also have a Samsung LCD 650, and a new Oppo BDP-93.

For my main speakers, I have some large Monster Cables that have four connections (bi-wire) on one end and two on the other. Currently, the four connects are bi-wired into the B&Ws. Question, anyone know if I can reverse the cables to bi-amp in the A2000? Obviously I'd have to reattach the "links" on the speakers.

(I sold my Aragon Stage One and 2007 amp for a more modern receiver; HDMI, Networking...)

Thanks in advance, Steve

I had my A3000 connected to my pc via HDMI and it worked well.
The biggest problem your having is due to DVI. DVI just doesn't work well overall with HDMI. Also can be issues with versions of HDMI among components. You may be better off connecting the PC directly to TV and sound to receiver.

does the 3000 have a genuinely more beefy power supply ? just on pure specs and weight it doesn't appear so ?

read the audioholics review of the 3000 and was impressed, but just read the hometheater review of the A-2000 - and although the review was very positive, the all channels driven test results for both 5 and 7 channel seemed rather low ?

http://www.hometheater.com/content/y...-labs-measures

Review of Yamaha-RX3000 on Page 66 In Sound And Vision January 2011.

The audioholics A3000 review did not include an all channels driven test, because they claim it's a pointless exercise (a reasonable argument). They did a test of dynamic power for all channels instead.

Going purely by the difference from previous years, the 2000 and 3000 likely have the same power supply, with the 3000 having somewhat larger capacitors so they can claim a bit more power per channel (given that the numbers are not for continuous output).

Just finished reading a review of the A3000 on page 66 in the Jan 2011 Sound & Vision Magazine. According to tester Daniel Kumin, "...it offered up my media library (via Twonky Media, a DLNA-compatible Mac-platform software media server), including high-rez FLAC files downloaded from services such as HDTracks, without a hiccough."

Dominic

Yup, that's a good idea and it's an easy and painless test too. I just moved the DVI->HDMI cable back into the TV... we'll see what happens.

If THIS happens to correct the problem, I'll probably look into getting a more recent video card with an HDMI output. I also see that most recent cards support combining audio along with the HDMI video output as well so that would be an overall cleaner solution too. I've stuck with the 9800GT because it was the fastest fanless/silent card I could find.

The Sharp Aquos takes a little while to start up before accepting any input changes. By then, my Harmony remote is already done with the IR codes so I was often correcting the TV input at startup (I know I could insert delays, but we're talking 4 or 5 seconds). Having one input into the TV made things more convenient and simple for everyone else in the household so ultimately I'd still like to get there with the RX-A2000...

Thanks for all of the help/suggestions guys!

I just read that review. It was a VERY positive review. I've now decided Ii am going to buy this receiver.

The interesting part for me was that reviewer stated that the YPAO incarnation in the A3000 was just as good as the Audyssey multi-EQ XT.

thanks for info

audioholics did do a 7 channel all channels driven test - its the 7 channel PSweep isn't it ?

people say the all channels driven tests aren't important, but the only AV amp I've owned so far that sounds genuinely home cinema dynamic, at only medium volumes and in a medium size room, is my current Pio 59TXi - and that did well in those tests.

I've read on other forums, that the Aventage US series uses "select higher quality components" over its EU X067 counterparts, do we know if thats genuinely true or not ? I'm over in the EU, and I'm reading very positive reviews of the A-3000 but is that reflected in the 3067 over here ? I know the 3067 doesn't have the 5th foot - but other than that, and the removal of a few US centric radio features etc, are there genuinely component improvement changes on the Adventage ?