"Official" Yamaha RX-A1000/RX-A2000/RX-A3000 thread - Page 103

"But ours go to 11" Why don't you just number it 1-10? "because ours go to 11!"

Sorry could not resist

I had major problems w the iphone app too -- until I disabled the Windows DLNA library. 99% of my issues went away. In its place, I installed something called TVMOBiLi. Works waaaay better. And free.

LOL, I always think of that when these discussions come up.

This threw me at first too, coming from an RX-V3800. But that's the way the display is set up. If you select a DTS source it will show on the display as well as with the OSD along with bit rate if it's compressed audio.

Hi all,

I really like my A2000, but for some reason I cannot get my deck speakers to work. I know digital content is not available in separate zones, but it IS supposed to work when in Party mode. The problem is, I can't get any sound out of these outdoor speakers when party mode is turned on. They are connected to the correct section on the AVR (zone 2). is there something special I need to do while running YPAO, or any settings I need to be aware of, to make this work? Thanks in advance!!

What is your source of your content when you're testing?

Goingpoor:

I agree with you for regular listening at sane SPLs, which is why I'm leaning strongly to buying the Yamaha. But if Mike really wants loud, with 165 wpc driving 7 channels (1% distortion) on the SC-35 vs. ~77 for the same measurement for the A2000 , he might be able to squeeze a few dBs more out of an ice amp

First of all thank you to every one who helped in creation of this extensive knowledge base.

I am interested in purchasing axa2000 but I am not sure if it can support speakers I have. I have four Energy rc30's (4 ohm Imp) and a Def Tech center speaker which is configured for with 4-8 ohm imp.

All of these speakers will be configured as "Small Speakers". I will be using a powered sub as well. Based upon what I have read so far it seems that I can modify receiver to support Front and Center speaker with 4 ohm settings, but not the rear speakers.

Is this true?
Are there any other Yamaha receivers which would support this configuration?
Are there any other receivers which would support this configuration?

Thanks.

FM radio, cable TV, Pandora (from bluray player)...nothing works. I realize you can only have analog sources when using a second zone, but in Party Mode, you're supposed to be able to play whatever you want; you just have to have the same content playing in all zones. This is what I want. It worked before on my Pioneer AVR, and I bought this one with the understanding i could use it the same way. In any case, the FM radio should work, since it's analog. It doesn't.

Oddly enough......it came to mind as I was writing it!

Party Zone is enabled? RX-A2000 OM 122

im a newbie here so please dont throw stones at me ( words are a ok with me lol )

what is VP you talk about? what is an ice amp? i had my old yamaha
receiver for about 13 years so i went with the yam advanteage 800
since thats what i could afford with my other new additions. i went
with yamaha mostly b/c of how long my previous yam lasted.


and also can someone tell me where should you place the last set of surround speakers
in the 7.1 setup? ive seen diff setups showing them in the front and then others as
side speakers and maybe more showing them at the very rear??? i thought that there
would be a spot that would already be determined for them to go.

its not like we are trying to place our 22.2 speaker setup that they say would go with
the ultra hdtv that is about 16 times better pic quality than todays hdtvs. it does say
it requires at least a 60 inch hdtv b/c of its specs.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra_hd


Ultra High Definition Television (UHDTV) (or Ultra HDTV, 4320p, and Ultra High Definition Video
(UHDV)) is an experimental digital video format, currently proposed under the leadership of NHK.
It is 16 times the resolution of HDTV. IMAX has roughly the same resolution as UHDTV.[1][2]

Wide Quad High Definition (WQHD) and Quad Full High Definition (QFHD) are not the same
resolution as that of UHDTV and represent intermediate resolutions mid-way between those
of HDTV and UHDTV.



and heres page on 22.2 speaker setup:


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/22.2

Upper layer: Nine speakers above ear level

Middle layer: Ten speakers at ear level

and wait for it:

Lower layer: Five speakers below ear level

thanks

you sure those energies are 4 ohms? i have rc-70's and 50's running with an rc-lcr on my a2000. no problems. i hooked up my upa-5 to it because 1) i wanted to hook up a pair of rc-10's AND a pair of rc- micros. 2) i didnt want to let the emo amp sit around doing nothing.

p.s. my energies are all 8 ohms

VP is video processor. Sorry, I was in a hurry at work.

The ice amps are class D amps, vs. the A/B types normally found in high-end equipment. Very efficient, which means less drop off when driving multiple channels, and less heat. Apparently harder to make "high fidelity", which is why they are relatively rare in high-end equipment. Here's a wiki link, that I understand about 1/2 of, not being an electrical engineer.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Class_D_Amplifier

Hope that helps...

Gary

Now that you have mentioned it actual specs reads as following
" Impedance 8 ohms nominal; 4 ohms minimum"

Currently I have an old HK which was not able to push rear RC-30, but is doing okay with front RC-30's. My immediate thought that is was due to Imp for rear speakers, but it sounds like my HK needs to be upgraded soon.

BTW any best practices for configuring a2000 with 4 x RC30's + Center Speaker + 12 inch powered sub.

Thanks again.

can someone tell me where should you place the last set of surround speakers
in the 7.1 setup? ive seen diff setups showing them in the front and then others as
side speakers and maybe more showing them at the very rear??? i thought that there
would be a spot that would already be determined for them to go.

run ypao. then set all speakers to small. i guarantee you ypao will set the rc-30's to large. make sure the crossover is all the way up on your sub. after ypao, set the crossover to 80 on the sub and the receiver.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...yUjSyA&cad=rja

http://www.google.com/images?q=7.1+s...w=1366&bih=465

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...mM8qvA&cad=rja


here you go. you have to take your room dimensions into consideration.

Gary, I think you know where I am coming from. Let me start out by saying I returned my 867 yesterday. It was not without some regret because I really liked how stupid easy it was to use and the passthrough and the remote was really cool and etc. I did this because I was not happy with the power output in a certain DVD I use for testing. I will say I adjusted a few parameters on the 867 and was able to turn it up all the way to +6db without it shutting down. However, the sound as before got muddy/sloppy as it approached 0db.

So the day before yesterday I removed it and put the Pioneer VSX-23TXH back in. It retained all the settings from before. I cranked it to +5db and it was just loud and clear and way louder. I am not so sure this is the difference in 15watts or the class of amplifier but a clearly audible difference.

Observations of the Yamaha, very nice quality unit. Good sound easy setup. If you are not a party idiot like me it will do all you need. My wife could do anything she wanted with the unit due to the standby passthrough and stupid easy scene buttons. I almost want to go back to the store and buy that unit for cheaper than I paid for it as an open box but.......

However it falls on it's face next to my Pio unit it was to replace. It does not have the power as I clearly saw on the top end where it struggled. It does not have the THX or Nueral (sp) options that really sound good to me, and it weighs about 5lbs less than my PIO. Call me old school but that has always meant something to me and I have been in the receiver game since 1981. Have a look, Yamaha on top:



I do not want anybody to get me wrong, the 867 was a very nice, capable unit. I just had the unfortunate luck to have a Pio Elite model before this and that is a hard act to follow. Sadly the wife has hated the 1.3 non-passthrough non-ease of use of the Pio from day one. Now as I look more, I see Onkyo is going to come out with their new units with the Marvel chip that supports even higher than 1080P. Where does it end? Guess I'll sit on the Pio and watch. Don't need another dinosaur in 1 year. I am getting tired of this crap.

Anyway, another comparison pic of the Pio that I am keeping for now.

Thanks for all the input from you Yamaha owners here. I was looking to go to this manufacturer and that is why I asked for input at high volumes. I did not need advice on how loud I should listen to AVRs that cost more than $500 but thanks for that too. I did like the 867 a lot. Glad I got to test it out. I am sure the Aventage units are good ones as well. Again, the 867 is a very capable unit for most apps. My app is in a 20'x24' room with a 6.1 setup and 3 Polk subs. Matter of fact, the speakers are all Polk monitor series except the rears which are wired for impedence making them one speaker. For now the Elite is staying despite it's user non-friendliness.

Mikes2cents,

You need to try an amplifier in the Aventage series, if you want something that can fairly be compared to your Elite Pioneer!

Whoa there fella. You REALLY don't want to set the sub's crossover to the same crossover as the AVR. You'll end up both double dipping AND likely inverting the phase of the signal output by the sub in the process. You want one at max, the other at the desired location (usually sub at max if you're not using the LFE input(s) and the AVR at 80). But you seriously do not want both to be at the same crossover setting. Double dipping on the crossover slope is a surefire way to completely kill just about any and all meaningful bass output.

Does anyone know what the 3.15 firmware update for the RX-A1000 fixes?

I'm still very displeased by the the fact that running the Cinema DSP setting in DTS-MA causes the unit to revert to a down-sampled DTS stream. I would have returned it for this fact alone if I didn't notice it after that 30-day return period.

sorry i'm confused. are referring to during speaker setup (ypao) or after? i'll admit i'm not an expert. but the op's setup is pretty similar to mine (4 energy towers + powered sub). and i basically gave him the numbers i'm using. bass is not lacking in my setup. what you are claiming is probably the normal case, i don't know, so i can't say. but it's not the case with my setup.

Given your description, I'd suggest that you maybe haven't assigned the speaker terminals yet. You have to assign each extra zone to either of two sets of "extra speaker" terminals (where you plug the speaker wire in to the AVR). The extra speaker terminals are called "Extra sp1" and "Extra sp2". This is very poorly covered on pg.112 of the A2000 owner's manual. I think by default Zone2 is assigned to "extra sp2" terminals, while zone3 is assigned to "extra sp1" terminals.

HTH...

This is actually pretty common in AVRs. DTS consumes excessive processing power, as do DSP modes. Conventional wisdom is that if you're going to digitally alter the audio in the first place with a DSP mode, it hardly matters if you're using a high-bitrate lossy core or the lossless stream. Other AVRs will down-res the lossless streams when doing DSP processing, or have limitations on the sample rates they can process at all. But if you want to hear a lossless stream in it's pristine form as the creator intended, turn off DSP modes.

While I would say that Squishy slightly exaggerated when he said that cascading LPFs for your sub will "completely kill just about any and all meaningful bass output" he is correct that it's a really bad idea.

You should leave your sub's adjustable LPF at it's highest setting (hopefully somewhere north of 150Hz) and then set (or let YPAO set) the Yamaha AVR's filter to whatever you like (80Hz is a good starting point).

If you set both filters to 80Hz you will get what I've already referred to as "cascading filters". This can very likely (though not definitely) result in a phase flip of your bass signal (what's left of it) which in and of itself is a bad thing (though usually fixable if your sub has a phase adjustment knob/toggle). What also will happen is you will at least double the drop-off slope of the low pass filter (e.g. from -18dB/octave to -36dB/octave) and your effective "cutt-off frequency" will decrease from 80Hz (or where ever you set it) to something significantly lower (i.e. to 70~60Hz maybe... it depends on the filters that are overlapping and their characteristics). Meanwhile, the HIGH-pass portion of your yamaha's cross-over network will remain unaffected (e.g. fc=80Hz, -18dB/octave). This will result in a huge hole in your high-bass region (using the example numbers I've just made up, the hole would be roughly from 70-80Hz). So in theory, you could still have a significant amount of bass that's very audible (from ~70Hz down to the lower limit of your sub) but you'd have a really gaping hole right around your intended cross-over point. This would explain why you still hear some bass from your system. If you can bypass your sub's own LPF (my Energy sub has a bypass input) that's best. If not, set the sub's LPF as high as it will go to avoid the two filters overlapping at all.

HTH...

You are quite correct and that is why I follow this thread. The store had no Aventage units and talked me into trying the top RX-V unit. I was hopeful, it came pretty close to meeting my wants, which are different than my needs, and one of my problems with some things that causes me to spend more than I need to.

Based on the review at hometheater.com, the 2000 looks to make decent power and received a favorable review. They did note something I also noted with the 867:

" This called my attention to one of the otherwise excellent remote's few flaws: It can select Dolby Pro Logic II only with a Sur Decode button located under the remote's flip-down bottom panel. The top of the remote devotes no fewer than four buttons (Movie, Classical, Live Club, Entertainment) to cycling among DSP junk modes."

Maybe I did not spend enough time on those but I found little use for them. Maybe someone can clarify what benefits these modes have since I probably did not use them for the intended purpose?

Yeah, junk modes is a good description. I don't ever use them. As far as I can tell, they basically just add different amounts of reverb to the signal. Useful for audio mastering or live reproduction, but not so much on an already-mastered source. I may occasionally try them when listening to a source that is of poor quality, in hopes that it will improve, or at least mask, the sound, but it rarely does, IME.

From the update PDF:

This firmware includes the following improvements
1. Adds Pandora Internet Radio Service
2. Adds Napster Online music service
3. Improves contents playback stability

It also includes the radio tuner fix. I doubt any update is going to add full processing for DTS-HD MA bitstream, but you could decode in the BD player instead of the receiver.

A typical 7.1 setup will have 3 speakers across the front, 2 on the sides and 2 in the back (5.1 will have the 3 front and 2 sides ideally, but sometimes placed in the back). The extra speakers you mention in the front are for a presence set up and not really termed as a 7.1 setup.